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Siamang
Nov 15, 2003
When I hear 'rockfall' I think of a few head-sized rocks falling, but drat:

https://twitter.com/YosemiteNPS/status/913595020342464518

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Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum

Syncopated posted:

If you were european you would be over the badass limit, as 5.11c is 7a. Congrats!

Holy Wow, I didn't do the conversion. :eyepop:

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007

Just did my first deep-water soloing at Pace Bend (Austin TX) today. It was fun as hell. I can't believe I haven't done it before, especially since I live only 50 minutes away from the spot. I'll definitely be going more often.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum
Just got home from watching Dirtbag: The legend of Fred Beckey.

loving. Amazing. Really, really, really cannot highly recommend seeing that if it comes to a festival near you, or once it's more widely available. One of the best climbing "personality" docs I've ever watched.

Granted, Beckey is my idol beside John Clarke, so I may be heavily biased. :haw:

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Peak Performance.

Buglord
Had a cool moment yesterday where I was trying a new route with an undercling and I thought to myself "holy poo poo, I'm holding on to this pinchy undercling and it doesn't feel too bad" which I couldn't have imagined 3 weeks ago.

Then I tried to reach the next one and fell on the mat, but STILL. Progress is fun.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!
Anyone here got experience with AC joint injuries? I had some weird pain (more like just slightly painful stiffness) in my shoulder for the last couple of weeks and a general sensation of feeling a bit sore/weak, I've been climbing on it since nothing really hurt but it doesn't seem to be going away and there does seem to be some swelling around the AC joint. From looking it up online it sounds like this could be potentially difficult to heal if it's not properly dealt with, but the severity of the injury I have seems to be minimal even compared to most descriptions of a grade 1 spain.

I'm going to go see a doctor as soon as I can but gently caress knows when that will be and my experience with GPs re: sports injuries is that they don't give a gently caress if it doesn't need surgery so I'm not really hopeful. I'd just like to know if I should stop climbing on it and if so for how long.

Falkaugaa
Feb 13, 2010
I've had a lot of minor shoulder injuries, and my usual starting point to decide if it needs professional help is:

1) does it hurt while at rest?
1a) does the pain subside after warming up the joint?

If it does, it's most likely inflammation, probably due to poor movement patterns (you didnt specify an acute event) and you need to do some rehabbing. Go to a physio if you can, or try any of the shoulder rehab protocols online for a week or two, but keep moving through low intensity exercise.

1b) if the pain persists with warming up, or gets worse, you need to see a professional. A sports doc preferably, but a physio is a good first line of action as theyre plentiful and the problem might not require surgery or medication.

If you're not already doing it, look into a (p)rehab protocol for the shoulders. I like ido portal's band routine, it's on youtube, I haven't had any serious issues with my shoulders after incorporating it into my warm-up about a year and a half ago.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!
It does hurt a tiny bit at rest but it's kind of like a 1/10 pain, it feels like someone gently applying pressure to the joint, but I didn't really notice it until this weekend; which suggests I might have made it worse, which is why I'm being a bit more cautious now. As you say there wasn't a single specific traumatic event. While warmed up / actually climbing it hasn't been painful at all but it has been feeling like it's not 100% in terms of strength.

I think I'll probably skip climbing for a week or two, spend some extra time doing exercises on the injured shoulder, and hit up my physio, hopefully that will get it on the path to a proper recovery.

Falkaugaa
Feb 13, 2010
I'd follow dave mcleod's advice from his awesome climbing injury book "make not break" (or something like that) and keep climbing as long as it doesnt hurt. Start real slow with controlled traversing on easy terrain, no dynamic movement, aim to work on footwork and just get the blood flowing. In my experience minor injuries heal a lot faster with light activity than with just rest. Ramp up the intensity slowly, but make sure you're always in full control of your movements. After a week or so with no symptoms you can try to work back up to your pre-injury level, but don't rush into it. For sure see a physio if you can.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!
Mostly I'm just worried about it turning into a full blown separated shoulder which is apparently something which can happen if I overexert it in the wrong way while it's still healing, but I managed to get a physio visit tomorrow evening so I'll hopefully be able to get a decent regime to follow. I do generally subscribe to the "carefully working through injury" school of thought but equally I don't want to gently caress myself up permanently. Thanks for the advice :)

egyptian rat race
Jul 13, 2007

Lowtax Spine Fund 2019
Ultra Carp

Siamang posted:

When I hear 'rockfall' I think of a few head-sized rocks falling, but drat:

https://twitter.com/YosemiteNPS/status/913595020342464518

Some of the first comments on the Rock and Ice online snippet about this were "I smell a first ascent!!" Super classy considering someone died... I dunno, it bothers me given they trip all over themselves to say RIP/namaste when a "famous" climber dies

E: the lesson here is never read the comments

Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum
The modern climbing community is super toxic and its best to move on to alpine poo poo as fast as possible to avoid interacting with those types as much as possible. :v:

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Never read the comments.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005
Fallen Rib

Sigmund Fraud posted:

Got a full rack of DMM Dragon cams and looking to get micro cams to complement the rack. The smallest cam I got is a Blue #00 with range 13-21 mm.
Preferably the cams would have:
Same color scheme as DMM/BD/etc - Blue-White-Purple-Green-Red-Yellow repeating
Stoppers on the lobes to prevent an undercammed unit inverting/collapsing
Extendable slings
Narrow heads
Flexible stems

Good choice with the dragon cams. They're lovely.

You're going to have trouble ticking all that list in one go though. In my experience the stoppers on lobes are not to stop the cam from collapsing or inverting - the placement's already blown by that point. The stoppers are there to allow you to use it without any cam action at all - like a rock/nut/moac/....

To be helpful -
Camalot C3s come in a colour coded range that has several sizes going smaller than your blue DMM cam. They have stoppers on them and there are only 3 camming units to keep them narrow.
Alternatively, yet another bunch of people have brought out a knockoff of the legendary alien cams. They're called Alien revolutions have your extendable slings, 4 camming units and go almost as small as the camalots.
Personally, I'd go for the aliens. My fave bit of kit is a green totem cam- they're the sort of original knockoffs of the alien cams. It's really reassuring how it grabs into crappy placements and how flexible the stem is. Also I don't trust C3s.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum
Totems, you want Totems. Insanely good.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

I am pretty shocked that Hayden took his life... So sad.

https://www.adventure-journal.com/2017/10/climber-hayden-kennedy-dead-montana-avalanche/

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite
Given the circumstances of the failed avalanche rescue it is understandable.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007

I have a few questions for those of you who are experienced:

1. I've been using the Climb On lotion bar after each session (it was recommended in this thread) to take better care of my hands. I like it, but I've noticed that I have to use a lot more chalk now, and the chalk I use doesn't last very long - my hands become sweaty and slippery a lot more quickly, usually in the middle of a problem. Is that normal? I only do bouldering, and feel silly about having to stop mid-route to re-apply chalk.

2. Is it possible to become stronger while losing weight? My experience from weight-lifting suggests no. At the same time however, I have a few extra pounds (5-7 lbs) that I want to shed. So I'm sort of conflicted.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum
1. Crimp oil is love, crimp oil is life.
2. Yes.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007

Rime posted:

1. Crimp oil is love, crimp oil is life.

Can you elaborate please? Is the lotion bar I have bad?

Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum
No it's fine, it just might be over-moisturizing your skin type and preventing it from toughening up. I prefer crimp oil because it rejuvenates dry skin from extended sessions but doesn't soften my calluses.

An uptick in sweaty hands can also be a reaction to chalk. I had a crazy heavy chalk day last time I was out and when I went to work the next day I was sweating liters out of my palms, it was insane.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004

enraged_camel posted:

2. Is it possible to become stronger while losing weight? My experience from weight-lifting suggests no. At the same time however, I have a few extra pounds (5-7 lbs) that I want to shed. So I'm sort of conflicted.

Rime posted:

2. Yes.

I don't disagree, but think it's worth adding a note of caution -- if you're trying to lose weight, just be extra mindful of overtraining, and make sure that you're getting plenty of good rest between your strength sessions.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Sharks Eat Bear posted:

I don't disagree, but think it's worth adding a note of caution -- if you're trying to lose weight, just be extra mindful of overtraining, and make sure that you're getting plenty of good rest between your strength sessions.

As someone who is in "training mode" to prep for sending season (I hate injuries), and also recovering from a heinous knee injury:

I've dropped another ~20 pounds from my frame, but have been working hard to lose as little muscle memory and strength as possible through continued weight training, campus, and systems board work. It's working, but only because I think I'm maintaining strength, but shedding pounds. Ergo - stay as strong but just be *~lighter~*. Injury is pretty easy though. *~Getting strong is hard~*.

I hangboard about twice a week for 20 minutes, and boulder/weight train twice a week outside of that. Just be careful not to overdo it, like everyone says.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite
It seems counterintuitive, but I stopped having finger injuries after getting more disciplined about hangboard training.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

tortilla_chip posted:

It seems counterintuitive, but I stopped having finger injuries after getting more disciplined about hangboard training.

I would agree with this, I don't think I've ever seen anyone get injured from the hang board itself, but rather from mismanaging themselves and their workouts. The caveat being my statement only applies to the trango boards

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!
Finally went bouldering again like two months after I injured my finger. Felt so good to get back to it, even if I stuck to really easy stuff so get back in the swing of things (and not injure myself again).

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Just got back from the Red. I love that place so much. Got on some 12's, sent some 11's. Everyone needs to climb there at some point.

enraged_camel posted:

I have a few questions for those of you who are experienced:

1. I've been using the Climb On lotion bar after each session (it was recommended in this thread) to take better care of my hands. I like it, but I've noticed that I have to use a lot more chalk now, and the chalk I use doesn't last very long - my hands become sweaty and slippery a lot more quickly, usually in the middle of a problem. Is that normal? I only do bouldering, and feel silly about having to stop mid-route to re-apply chalk.

You could also be using too much climb on. If your hands are oily after applying it you are putting on too much.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005
Fallen Rib

enraged_camel posted:


2. Is it possible to become stronger while losing weight? My experience from weight-lifting suggests no. At the same time however, I have a few extra pounds (5-7 lbs) that I want to shed. So I'm sort of conflicted.


John Dunne says you can. He was a pioneer of the train heavy, climb light approach.
Necky solo action + yaarkshire ethics start at 3 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D0Mp0RrQRA

Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum
Yeah, higher end you'll start tying an extra 50lbs+ to your belt when you hangboard, since bodyweight will only take you so far.

In the hiking offseason I train with a 60lb loaded pack, because my week long expedition setup is usually around 35lbs and thus I can haul rear end twice as far in a day.

:science:

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012

Endjinneer posted:

John Dunne says you can. He was a pioneer of the train heavy, climb light approach.
Necky solo action + yaarkshire ethics start at 3 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D0Mp0RrQRA

John Dunne was a freak of nature. Not sure how much he weighed in his heyday, but no one that shape has climbed that hard before or since. People think Jan Hojer is heavy now cos he weighs about 80kg (176lb) at like 6' 2. Ondra is what, like 65kg, and Megos is 57 ffs.

In my experience, you can definitely stay 'climbing strong' while losing weight, because as much as people like to say it isn't, it's so dictated by your weight. I'm currently heavier and stronger than I've ever been generally, but not climbing any harder than I was five years ago or so, when I was about 8kg lighter. As people have said though, watch out for injuries. Anecdotal evidence only, but I've always felt much more injury prone on a calorie deficit, which I suppose makes sense.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:
Is anyone in here a German speaker? I'm working on a jam game involving mountaineering and want some authentic phrases German climbers might say while climbing. Basically things your climbing buddies might yell while you are climbing, encouragements etc.

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!
Auf geht’s! = go for it
Zu = take, zu zu zu ZU ZU ZU!! = TAKE GOD drat IT
Ab = let me down
Komm! = literally means “come” but you can use it as encouragement

That’s off the top of my head, I’ll post again if I think of more.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009

taqueso posted:

Is anyone in here a German speaker? I'm working on a jam game involving mountaineering and want some authentic phrases German climbers might say while climbing. Basically things your climbing buddies might yell while you are climbing, encouragements etc.

For realism, you should just have all nationalities screaming 'ALLEZ'.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
you are either ALLEZ or VENGA VENGA VENGA

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:
Awesome, thanks. This jam is over in a day and a half, I'll post the result then. If you have any more feel free to drop them in here.

e: Is there an equivalent of "Send It!" ? My friend really wants that to be in the game. The phrasing could be a little tongue-in-cheek.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzOUgwsQ_hM

taqueso fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Oct 30, 2017

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:
Well jam is over, ended up cutting the encouraging phrases for space unfortunately. http://www.awfuljams.com/octojam-iv/games/h8

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010


I just started climbing about a month ago when some friends invited me up to Montreal and try it out. Now I'm addicted, bought the recommended Self-Taught Climber book (so excited for it to come), got a grip-strengthener, and about to invest in a harness so I can do something other than just bouldering. I'm slowly working my way through this thread absorbing tons of good info that'll help me learn some actual technique, instead of just using More Power.

Anyone living in / around Burlington, VT looking for a climb-pal?

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

Wrr posted:

I just started climbing about a month ago when some friends invited me up to Montreal and try it out. Now I'm addicted, bought the recommended Self-Taught Climber book (so excited for it to come), got a grip-strengthener, and about to invest in a harness so I can do something other than just bouldering. I'm slowly working my way through this thread absorbing tons of good info that'll help me learn some actual technique, instead of just using More Power.

Anyone living in / around Burlington, VT looking for a climb-pal?

Go to Smuggler's Notch when the weather is nice.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007

Here's a video of me climbing like poo poo. I've been climbing for ~3 months.

I think I need to pay more attention to technique and pre-planning to minimize the need to shift feet and overall position.

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Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum

enraged_camel posted:

Here's a video of me climbing like poo poo. I've been climbing for ~3 months.

I think I need to pay more attention to technique and pre-planning to minimize the need to shift feet and overall position.

Use your toe edges more, you're pretty much always on the balls of your feet here which will stop being viable at V1. If you can't stand on your toe edge without slipping, your shoes are too big. Otherwise not bad for 3 months, you've got better general motion than I see in some people who've been climbing for a year.

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