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Rime posted:Use your toe edges more, you're pretty much always on the balls of your feet here which will stop being viable at V1. If you can't stand on your toe edge without slipping, your shoes are too big. Otherwise not bad for 3 months, you've got better general motion than I see in some people who've been climbing for a year. You mean the inside and outside edges of the front part of the shoe? I think that route is a V3. It's on a decline, but that's hard to see due to the recording angle. But yeah, I see what you mean. My foot placement definitely isn't great. Thank you for pointing that out. I'm usually comfortable with tiny footholds but when this was recorded I think I was just really tired and not paying attention. I'll try to record more and review them to see if there's a pattern.
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Nov 2, 2017 06:39
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enraged_camel posted:You mean the inside and outside edges of the front part of the shoe? Have a look at this video for some footwork moves that might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAbqzBchGvw If that seems a bit too much like a ridiculous elf ballet, have a look at this one by Neil Gresham instead: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRSWZ6KTow4 If you've got the spare time you could do a lot worse than working through all that masterclass series. There's some really good stuff that applies to climbers at all levels. Rime's right. You're climbing using your legs and body position well, rather than thug power. There's flagging, twist locks, step throughs and even a craftily dropped knee. You're off to a good start.
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Nov 2, 2017 14:38
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You should work on your footwork. Think about where you are putting it down at and be precise. Down climb the entire route as it will help your footwork. Also lol at that being a V3... Good job btw for 3 months.
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Nov 3, 2017 00:14
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Yeah, at this gym purple problems cover a range of v2 through v4 and there are definitely easier purples so I assumed it's a v3. I don't actually care though to be honest. I just wanna get gud.
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Nov 3, 2017 00:25
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Never too early to learn that grades are dumb and totally meaningless.
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Nov 3, 2017 00:27
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enraged_camel posted:Yeah, at this gym purple problems cover a range of v2 through v4 and there are definitely easier purples so I assumed it's a v3. I don't actually care though to be honest. I just wanna get gud.
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Nov 3, 2017 00:34
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I mean, I assumed it was a V0 because V2/V3 covers the YDS 11 range and I can't say I've ever had that many pocket jugs and the giant clam on an 11c/d route. Or gotten up an 11c/d without sweating bullets and swearing like a trucker with ants on his nuts.  I think your gym setters might be chumps, man.
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Nov 3, 2017 00:46
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Gym bouldering grades are always easier because being unable to do anything other than v0 isn't super fun for people who don't take climbing seriously. It is not a big deal.
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Nov 3, 2017 00:51
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crazycello posted:Gym bouldering grades are always easier because being unable to do anything other than v0 isn't super fun for people who don't take climbing seriously. It is not a big deal. Yeah that is basically the truth.
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Nov 3, 2017 01:15
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Is that Austin Bouldering Project?
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Nov 3, 2017 01:17
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crazycello posted:Gym bouldering grades are always easier because being unable to do anything other than v0 isn't super fun for people who don't take climbing seriously. It is not a big deal.
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Nov 3, 2017 01:27
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But...everything is a foothold... The blank wall can be a foothold... 
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Nov 3, 2017 01:37
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Rime posted:But...everything is a foothold... Smear for days...
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Nov 3, 2017 02:02
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Mons Hubris posted:Is that Austin Bouldering Project? Yeah
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Nov 3, 2017 02:47
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Rime posted:But...everything is a foothold... Yes, and some footholds are better than others, and having the (very likely) best footholds highlighted and visually distinct is going to make it generally easier than climbing outdoors especially at lower grades. I'm not sure why you read anything else into that.
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Nov 3, 2017 02:52
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Yeah that place has really fun routes but they grade softer than any gym I’ve been to. Still pretty great.
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Nov 3, 2017 03:31
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Mons Hubris posted:Yeah that place has really fun routes but they grade softer than any gym I’ve been to. Still pretty great. Yeah, it's a great gym. Really huge. I think one of the largest in the US? Or so I've heard. My only complaint is it gets super crowded, especially weekday evenings. Probably because it's a couple of miles from UT campus. Often times you have groups of 6-8 people set up camp in front of the more popular routes and no one else gets a chance to try them. Pretty annoying.
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Nov 3, 2017 03:37
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Ravenfood posted:Yes, and some footholds are better than others, and having the (very likely) best footholds highlighted and visually distinct is going to make it generally easier than climbing outdoors especially at lower grades. I'm not sure why you read anything else into that. Eh, you're right. I've been on Reddit too much this week and that was unnecessarily pedantic.
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Nov 3, 2017 03:46
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Endjinneer posted:Have a look at this video for some footwork moves that might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAbqzBchGvw Going back to this, in both videos the shoes have "sharp" edges. Mine are rounded though (I posted this a few pages back):  This probably has a large effect on how good of a grip I can get on small holds, and how confident I feel in my footwork in general. Should I get new/better shoes?
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Nov 3, 2017 03:51
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Your shoes look like they are in the sending sweet spot to me. E: shoes are not going to be your problem at all really.
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Nov 3, 2017 05:12
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spwrozek posted:Your shoes look like they are in the sending sweet spot to me. What's that?
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Nov 3, 2017 05:41
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A lot of people don't like brand new shoes until the rubber breaks in and looks like yours. The shoes then feel great. Then you wear them out and you have to resole.
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Nov 3, 2017 05:50
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Seconding that those look pretty drat good. If I need a little more sticky, I'll scrub my edges with a nylon brush. The old wisdom claims it removes a layer of hard oxidized rubber, making the surface softer and stickier. I have no idea if that's true, but if all I need is a placebo to stick to a small foothold, I'll use it.
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Nov 3, 2017 09:08
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deck posted:Seconding that those look pretty drat good. If I need a little more sticky, I'll scrub my edges with a nylon brush. The old wisdom claims it removes a layer of hard oxidized rubber, making the surface softer and stickier. I have no idea if that's true, but if all I need is a placebo to stick to a small foothold, I'll use it. No idea about the rubber, but just removing the dirt on the shoe helps with the grip. I wince every time I see people outside walking around with their climbing shoes on.
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Nov 3, 2017 09:33
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crazycello posted:Gym bouldering grades are always easier because being unable to do anything other than v0 isn't super fun for people who don't take climbing seriously. It is not a big deal. I used to regularly attend two separate gyms and the grading difference was pretty wild. I liked the easy gym’a grades not just because they made me look better, but because I could do enough to get a good sense of progression. I could tell I was getting better because I actually improved a few grades while I was there. Meanwhile that sense of progression gets lost in the huge gaps between grades at the other gym.
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Nov 3, 2017 13:54
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runchild posted:I used to regularly attend two separate gyms and the grading difference was pretty wild. I liked the easy gym’a grades not just because they made me look better, but because I could do enough to get a good sense of progression. I could tell I was getting better because I actually improved a few grades while I was there. Meanwhile that sense of progression gets lost in the huge gaps between grades at the other gym. I can do V1s, and make good headway on V2s at one local gym, but there are some V0s I cannot do at another. It's wild how different they are.
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Nov 3, 2017 14:57
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Wrr posted:I can do V1s, and make good headway on V2s at one local gym, but there are some V0s I cannot do at another. It's wild how different they are. Yeah at my local gym, I can do all the V1s, and like... a couple of the V2s. But the holds are starting to get pinchy and crimpy and I haven't built that up yet 
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Nov 3, 2017 16:09
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enraged_camel posted:Going back to this, in both videos the shoes have "sharp" edges. Mine are rounded though (I posted this a few pages back): Those are fine. You see the line where the thick rubber sole meets the rest of the boot? Once the edge of the sole is worn up to that line you want to decide if you're going to a) get them resoled because then there's only a few mm of rubber before your toe pokes through, or b) climb them to destruction. Boot rubber is soft enough that small edges will bite into it, even if it's rounded off. Climbing on thin edges is a lot about getting the balance of inward and downward force right, similar to smearing. The way it's bobbled up looks like you've been dragging your toe for balance. That can be a useful technique but people overuse it often. That dragging foot might be keeping you stable but it's also resisting your upward movement (and wearing out your boots). Next time you realise you're doing it try to work out how to change your stance so it's not needed.
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Nov 3, 2017 20:25
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Checkin' in on this thread. After a year of on and off again climbing due to knee/shoulder injuries I'm finally back to climbing regularly (though only once a week) and seeing improvement. Did my first 5.11 last week, and bouldering about v4 (though my gym is fairly soft in grading). Feels good to get back to it. My gym stopped labeling 10a/b/c/d in favor of plain ol' 5.10, which means the jump from 5.10 to 5.11 felt super weird.
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Nov 6, 2017 13:38
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Yesssss, apparently I can get my climbing gym subscription almost entirely reimbursed by my employer. I haven't been able to afford renewing it over the past few months, which may have contributed to my climbing a lot less. Gonna get them benefits and then back in climbing shape!
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Nov 6, 2017 14:08
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Indian Creek is cool and hard.
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Nov 13, 2017 05:27
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spwrozek posted:Indian Creek is cool and hard. Indian Creek is fine, but I'm already sick of desert crack and I wish there were other options within a similar distance.
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Nov 13, 2017 06:12
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Baronash posted:Indian Creek is fine, but I'm already sick of desert crack and I wish there were other options within a similar distance. Oh yeah if that is all you got it would get boring. I have only been once now. We have all kinds of rock surrounding Denver so way different.
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Nov 14, 2017 00:40
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Would you guys have any recommendations about where to find (easy -ish, like 5.10 and easier) sport climbs in north carolina, near asheville? I'll be visiting next year. It seems that most of the routes there are trad, and my climbing partner isn't very enthusiastic about that or harder sport climbing... Asking from the other side of the pond here, so I'm clueless about where the good crags are. Alternatively, any places within a days driving distance, maybe?
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Nov 14, 2017 17:31
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iJay posted:Would you guys have any recommendations about where to find (easy -ish, like 5.10 and easier) sport climbs in north carolina, near asheville? I'll be visiting next year. It seems that most of the routes there are trad, and my climbing partner isn't very enthusiastic about that or harder sport climbing... Asking from the other side of the pond here, so I'm clueless about where the good crags are. Alternatively, any places within a days driving distance, maybe? The short answer is no. There is basically no sport climbing in that area of North Carolina. The trad climbing can be quite the adventure from interesting approaches to route finding. It is very good though and some fun multi pitch stuff. If you want to climb sport a day away you need to just make the 4 hour drive to red River gorge. That place is awesome (although over hung so get your endurance up) with many many classics under 5.11. you can rent the online guide book door $7 for 2 months as well. Also this all depends on the time of year. The summer can be pretty hot and humid. Spring can bring a lot of rain. Fall is typically the best time there. The higher elevation in NC can make for cold climbing (good for summer, not so much for fall). When will you be here?
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Nov 14, 2017 19:12
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Picked up my first set of stoppers last weekend. It begins. 
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Nov 18, 2017 01:57
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Just wait until you get that double rack!! Also please have a mentor.
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Nov 18, 2017 06:14
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spwrozek posted:Just wait until you get that double rack!! Also please have a mentor. Oh yes. I've followed others on trad on numerous occasions, so I've got mentors to turn to. Also, there's probably not tons of routes available at the Red that can be done solely on stoppers, so I'll probably be getting very familiar with a small number of easy routes next year.
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Nov 18, 2017 07:54
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 Armata Sikati
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Nov 18, 2017 16:02
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Meaty Ore posted:Oh yes. I've followed others on trad on numerous occasions, so I've got mentors to turn to. Also, there's probably not tons of routes available at the Red that can be done solely on stoppers, so I'll probably be getting very familiar with a small number of easy routes next year. Nice man. That sounds good. Borrow your friends gear too. drat that looks sick.
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Nov 18, 2017 16:43
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