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Apologies for the instagram post, but it's easy for me to post and I think illustrates pretty well: https://www.instagram.com/p/BTWYv4ih3_J/ Rain-X on the left, not treated on the right. Once I hit 30mph the rain just sliiiides right off the windshield. It's lasted a couple months (I've obviously reapplied since April) If there's better stuff out there, I'm game, but the Rain-X spray bottle works pretty well for me.
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Oct 9, 2017 14:05
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I've stopped applying the stuff manually, I just have the rain-x blades now that have that stuff impregnated in the rubber or something? I don't know how it works exactly but it's like magic, I put those blades on and within the first day or so of rain, the rain beads off as if I'd applied rain-x by hand directly. I forget which rain-x blades they are exactly, you should be able to figure it out from looking at the packaging which one self-applies. Worth every penny. I've been running those through some pretty godawful storms in Iowa since last winter and have had zero issues. The blades function very well in and of themselves, too: I live on about 2 miles of gravel, so they're having to put up with a lot of abusive grit pretty constantly. Hasn't impacted their performance at all that I can tell.
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Oct 9, 2017 14:32
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I tried Rain X years ago, and while it was great for side windows etc, I found using it on windscreens didn't eliminate needing wipers, and now the wipers left a noticeable "ghosting" as they passed. So I preferred without. Did I just apply it incorrectly at the time?
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Oct 9, 2017 14:55
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InitialDave posted:I tried Rain X years ago, and while it was great for side windows etc, I found using it on windscreens didn't eliminate needing wipers, and now the wipers left a noticeable "ghosting" as they passed. So I preferred without. You didnt let it dry long enough. Spray on, swirl it around with a cloth, wait 15 minutes, buff it down. Its basically wax+alcohol for your window. If you just spray it on and wipe it you get the ghosting/filmy residue
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Oct 9, 2017 15:01
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InitialDave posted:I tried Rain X years ago, and while it was great for side windows etc, I found using it on windscreens didn't eliminate needing wipers, and now the wipers left a noticeable "ghosting" as they passed. So I preferred without. I've never seen anything but water-throwing behavior from Rain-X applied correctly. It's very good stuff, but only lasts about 6 weeks of daily-driver usage. My application process is to apply with a paper towel, rubbing on and allowing to fully dry (~20 minutes), then taking a damp microfiber and water mister and wiping off the windows with a very light mist of water. When applied like this, it really works. Doesn't get rid of the need for wipers, but makes them MUCH more effective, and keeps the water drops tighter so that it's easier to see past them.
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Oct 9, 2017 15:03
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EVERYWHERE 
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Seminal Flu posted:Doesn't get rid of the need for wipers Unless you're doing 70+, then it pretty much does.
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Oct 9, 2017 15:11
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yall own, thanks  I'll be back in here soon enough most likely. Got a new A6 and because i'm That Guy who just had to have a black car, i'm sure i'll be cleaning this thing forever
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Oct 9, 2017 15:11
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Ok, sounds like I just did a bad job of applying it at the time. It was years ago, and I've never tried it since.
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Oct 9, 2017 15:25
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Bad Munki posted:Unless you're doing 70+, then it pretty much does. This is true. Provided your windshield has enough rake.
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Oct 9, 2017 15:41
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DJExile posted:RE: Glass - Are any of the various Rain-x/water repellent cleaning products good? I'd like something that beads up the water really well since we're getting into super rainy fall season here in Ohio, but I don't know if I'm throwing good money after bad because that stuff doesn't last well these days, or if the second I hit my windshield washer it's going to clear it off anyway. Aquapel works well for me. http://www.aquapel.com/ I can get all the windows done with 2 applicators, but to do that you have to move pretty fast to get it to go that far. I quit using a long time ago Rain-X because the longevity isn't so great. I used to get about a month before I felt like it needed to be reapplied on the windshield. I also tried Wolf's Glass Guard, but I think they no longer have any distributors in the US anymore, and it seems like Aquapel works slightly better for me, although I never did a side by side comparison on the same windows. I did have both on one car at the same time, and put one on top of the other at some point without stripping the other off without any issues that I noticed. The last time I put anything on my side windows was May 2016. The windshield and rear glass got done with Aquapel sometime between mid February and early March this year and it's still going. I did clean my front and rear glass with Duragloss Nu-Glass before the most recent application of Aquapel. Nu-Glass worked really well to clean some really embedded grime outside the wiper area on the windshield. There was like a rainbow effect on the glass right where the wiper would stop, and just general grime that wouldn't come off with normal cleaning.
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Oct 10, 2017 13:30
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Whenever I wax the car I just do the windows too when I'm finished with the already wax soiled rag. Works pretty well and I already have all the materials. 
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Oct 10, 2017 14:40
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Scott808 posted:Aquapel works well for me. http://www.aquapel.com/ I'll check both out, thanks!
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Oct 10, 2017 18:41
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Seminal Flu posted:I've never seen anything but water-throwing behavior from Rain-X applied correctly. It's very good stuff, but only lasts about 6 weeks of daily-driver usage. Gotta remember this next time I apply it. I don't think I've ever let it dry long enough now. Any issue with putting it on heated side mirrors?
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Oct 11, 2017 01:06
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Rain X doesn't work on snow unfortunately. Aquapel didn't do anything when I got it, if the dealer actually applied it. I'm parked outdoors and my windshield had some stupid factory coating on it that is worn - any wax or anything on it makes driving in the morning hell if the car doesn't warm up.
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Oct 26, 2017 00:29
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Jesus detailing a 240,000 mike engine bay sucks. I’d post pictures but little difference. The good news was this was my first attempt, and I didn’t break anything, so more attempts coming.
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Oct 30, 2017 01:16
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 40+ hrs detailing a Ferrari 360: A GIF album It's sooo beeeaaautiful...
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Nov 4, 2017 17:29
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Washed my new white car with 100 miles on it. Regretted buying a white car already. Probably sat on the lot for awhile as there are tons of specs that need clayed off. Too cold to deal with at the moment, it was all I could do to just wash it in 45 degree temps and get a sealant on it for winter. That's a problem for spring time Larrymer.
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Nov 9, 2017 02:43
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Larrymer posted:Washed my new white car with 100 miles on it. Regretted buying a white car already. Yeah, going from silver to white is tough. The good thing about white is that it really doesn't show as soon as you get a couple feet back... and you never have to worry about swirl marks like with darker colors!
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Nov 9, 2017 13:34
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... unless you get it into direct sunlight / street lights.
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Nov 9, 2017 15:57
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Night Danger Moose posted:
I have to say, the man is right. All Ferraris should come with googly headlights.
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Nov 9, 2017 16:06
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Seminal Flu posted:Yeah, going from silver to white is tough. The good thing about white is that it really doesn't show as soon as you get a couple feet back... and you never have to worry about swirl marks like with darker colors! Silver is the best color for a DD. It never looks dirty but it's the new beige, so The G35 was as little too dark but still miles easier than white. I would have spent more time on it but the yellow clay bar was just sticking to the paint even with tons of water. Just too cold and it was leaving yellow streaks.
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Nov 9, 2017 17:32
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get one of the synthetic claybars, they work so much faster and easier than real clay. much better ergonomically too.
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Nov 9, 2017 19:30
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MrOnBicycle posted:... unless you get it into direct sunlight / street lights. The local supermarket has an underground carpark with some sort of florescent lighting that shows up every little swirl/scratch even ones that are invisible under any sort of natural lighting.
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Nov 9, 2017 19:35
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BraveUlysses posted:get one of the synthetic claybars, they work so much faster and easier than real clay. much better ergonomically too. Have any recommendations? I’ve started looking into these but unlike clay, so many options!
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Nov 9, 2017 20:14
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I'm completely shameless in my love for everything at griots garage
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Nov 9, 2017 20:28
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Word. I’ve considered going to their headquarters for their classes. The only thing holding me back is how much I would buy. Thanks for reminding me they have them.
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Nov 9, 2017 20:41
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BraveUlysses posted:get one of the synthetic claybars, they work so much faster and easier than real clay. much better ergonomically too. I did not know that was a thing. Huh, thanks for the recommendation. I've always hated claying because it takes so goddamn long.
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Nov 9, 2017 22:48
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yeah, they rule cause you can do the whole car in about 30 minutes right after you wash it. just dump all your dirty soap water and make a fresh bucket of suds and go for it.
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Nov 10, 2017 00:40
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What are the synthetic clays like, physically? Do they work in just the same way?
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Nov 10, 2017 04:48
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Here4DaGangBang posted:What are the synthetic clays like, physically? Do they work in just the same way? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=197_Hu3c22I Here's a video "review" of one. I'll certainly be getting one of these when (who am I kidding, before) my normal clay runs out.
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Nov 10, 2017 07:47
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Here4DaGangBang posted:What are the synthetic clays like, physically? Do they work in just the same way? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JsJrOps2lQ its some sort of magical rubber material. griot's lasts about 25 cars worth of cleaning if you get the round sponge one. the mitt ones last longer but i like the ergo benefits of the round one better.
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Nov 10, 2017 15:09
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Cheap clay bars are good for your windscreen just before you treat with rain-x too! My BMW gets the treats, but my ford can suck it. Speaking of the ford: Hey guys I really really hosed up my paint job. Spray gun had blockages so it was cutting in an out, getting a tiger stripe effect. I was in a rush to move house and get the loving paint on so I just kept going with heaps of poo poo coats until I ran out of paint or thinners. End result a lot of rough stuff where the gun stuttered and orange peel where it kinda worked. I've started to rub it back with 1500 grit wet and now I've got to make the decision for more clear coat, or lots of buffing, compound, polish and wax. Personally I'd prefer clear coat again, but since I have moved I don't have a garage to paint in any more so it's likely I'd end up with clear coat full of dirt and dust that needs buffing back loving again anyway. This car is worth $1k so this is more for my own learning and entertainment. What is best if going with cheap gear - grinder style ~1000w rotary buffer or ~200w hand sander DA style? I think the cheapy DA hand sander style ones have a lot of vibration which may be detrimental anyway. I'm just thinking of going to get some meguires ultimate compound, a $130 black and decker grinder style buffer and go to town with some cheap pads as there's nothing to lose. Point me in the right direction for a better/easier way or compounds to use. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Nov 10, 2017 |
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Nov 10, 2017 16:45
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If you are going to wetsand it, i would go with the DA and get some wetsanding pads with foam interface for it. I did some spot spraycan repaints on my VW bug, and the result was surprisingly shiny after 1500-2000-3000 euro grade wetsand with a normal Bosh orbital sander. Cut pad and fluid easily took out the rest of the sanding marks with the same machine. The stuff i did by hand looked like rear end by comparison(mostly nooks and crannies). The paint was cloudy before I sanded it (probably too many and light coats.) I'm not sure what US 1500 grit is, but if its anything like Euro 1500 its not coming out with polish alone.
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Nov 10, 2017 18:01
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Yeah, I'm using aussie grit. Sometimes did OK in the wet, sometimes not. Often you have to watch out for flying debris/cars. Making some progress, only doing it in the evening during the odd 30 min during dusk where there's plenty of light but no hot sun drying everything out because it's getting hot down here lately I can't do it in the shade or under cover unfortunately. I'm hand sanding it but definitely wasn't planning on hand buffing/polishing that's for sure, which is why I was asking about best option for under au$150 powered buffer/polishing tool. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Nov 12, 2017 |
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Nov 12, 2017 16:47
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I couldn't find any wet/dry sanding discs in high grit for a DA sander at the local parts store. So I picked up some 2000grit to help finish it by hand (the highest grit they stocked), and bought a grinder style buffer with a synth wool pad and some compound. I'll see how that turns out. Doesn't need to be perfect - it just needed a respray as the paint was peeling and rusting bare metal, and also the crash damage on the tailight, so getting any paint on was a major improvement.
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Nov 13, 2017 08:32
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Trip report: Getting really bored with 1500 grit as it's taking forever. I know I haven't sanded far enough back yet but I really wanted to see some result. So some places where I don't care so much if there is orange peel (like some parts of the door) I tried out the grinder style buffer with synth wool pad and meguires ultimate compound, just to get an idea if it was going to work. It came up awesome, with less orange peel than the factory paint! I can't see any 1500 grit scratch marks where I used a sanding block and could get the buffer wheel on it so I know I'm going to get there soon. There were some scratches in crevices where I had to sand with fingers and couldn't get the buffer on it fully so that is a problem. So 1500 grit seems good enough when following with a good abrasive compound applied with a buffer wheel, but 2000grit needed for areas done by finger sanding and hand rubbing. Also I think it would have been better to start with 1200 grit or maybe even 1000 grit to get it down flatter quicker, then switch to 1500. I took so long and went through so many sheets because I needed to do a lot of sanding back with 1500. I've only really finished the door, still have the whole side of the tub and half the roof to go despite going over them 4 times already with 1500 grit, so when my finger heals (cut a bit of the tip off in the kitchen), I'm going to get some 1200 or 1000 grit for those panels, then finish with 1500 for machine reachable areas and the 2000 grit for hand sanding only areas. Then meguires ultimate compound and wool pad, the polish (already have mothers so I'll use that) with foam pad, then spray wax (have mequires so I'll use that) Fo3 fucked around with this message at 09:21 on Nov 16, 2017 |
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Nov 16, 2017 09:12
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I’m pretty sure I have a bunch of sap or resin like coating one of my cars that I almost never drive, it sat in a back yard for a long time and now it just has a coating of the stuff evenly all over including the glass. There seems to be some trees around here that almost cost things in the stuff. It seems almost like a candy coating over the paint and windshields. Online says rubbing alcohol should deal with tree sap, but this stuff seems impervious. Any suggestions? Blame Pyrrhus fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Dec 1, 2017 |
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Dec 1, 2017 05:21
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Try soaking a paper towel in alcohol or WD40 etc and holding/leaving it on a patch.
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Dec 1, 2017 13:37
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Try hot water first, let is sit on there for a while, keep it hot, and see if it softens.
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Dec 1, 2017 14:25
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Will try both of those options. The stuff was hard as rock.
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Dec 1, 2017 16:20
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