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Twerk from Home posted:I own one. The transmission is still in the Focuses and Fiestas they're selling now, so model years are 2012+. Or do what I did and buy a car with 230K miles on it that verifiably had the transmission replaced a year ago! On most cars transmissions are tricky because the bill to replace the transmission on a modern car is going to be around $3,000 which is usually close to the value of a car with ~150K miles on it. It's very dependent on what else is going on with the car whether it makes more sense to fix the transmission or move on to your next beater.
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Nov 8, 2017 02:49
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On a manual box the transmission itself will probably last 250k miles, but the clutch is a wear item and it'll probably need a master cylinder at some point too.
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Nov 8, 2017 03:31
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Either an older, high trim luxury car from the mid-2000s, or roughly 2014 onward for ordinary family sedans. I think you'll pay at least $18K for a car with a decent forward collision avoidance. Fair enough regarding the assist. My V6 requirement is primarily because my current ride is a 99 Honda Accord V6 and my experiences in the L4 versions have made me feel good about owning the V6. Is this different in the more recent models?
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Nov 8, 2017 03:59
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Go test drive them. A four cylinder Accord at your price point should have a K24 which is a damned decent four cylinder. Of course it's no J-series so if you want the V6, get the V6.
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Nov 8, 2017 04:07
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Best part about owning a V6 is that you save about 25% on spark plugs vs the inline 4.
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Nov 8, 2017 07:08
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Best part of the V-6 is the extra 92hp.
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Nov 8, 2017 14:11
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Picked up my car today, thanks for the help everyone! It only took ten months of vigorous posting and waffling 
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Nov 9, 2017 21:40
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So, how flexible are price negotiations, exactly. Like I've never bought a car from a dealer before and read all the tips but I'm not exactly sure what a "good" deal is. For instance, I want a 2017 mx-5 RF with the brembo package. KBB values that car at ~36k. My local dealer has that car listed at 35,300. That's supposedly already under MSRP. Should I expect to be able to get that down by a grand or two? Do I haggle for more value on my trade in, or lower sticker price? Assume I would be coming in with good/pre-approved credit and my trade in appraised by a 3rd party.
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Nov 9, 2017 23:39
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I just moved to Colorado and I'm quickly realizing that I probably can't get by on just biking and taking public transport like I did while I was living in NYC. I'm thinking about picking up my first car ever once I pay off my relocation debt. Proposed Budget: Willing to go as high as about $8000-$10000, though I'd prefer to go lower New or Used: Used Body Style: 4 door sedan should be fine. No wife/kids or anything like that to consider How will you be using the car?: Probably using it to commute around town in the evenings, basically 20-30 minutes drives a couple of times a week. I live in Boulder, might take the occasional trip down to Denver (about a 40-60 min drive depending on traffic) over the weekends, and sometimes drive for a little longer to visit a friend in Aspen as well as go to some hiking trails (2-3+ hours). Doubt I'll be lugging anything heavier than groceries around. What aspects are most important to you? Cost-related concerns are my biggest ones. I'd like to grab something that won't need too much maintenance and is fuel efficient. It could look horrible for all I care, doesn't really matter to me. The general advice here is to get a Subaru for all the snow, but I'm wondering if there are other cars to consider that people might not initially think about. Also, if I could pick up something for much cheaper than 8k, say less than 5k, that would be awesome of course. I'm planning on paying it all up front and avoiding any kind of financing/loans.
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Nov 10, 2017 00:46
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Scionix posted:So, how flexible are price negotiations, exactly. Like I've never bought a car from a dealer before and read all the tips but I'm not exactly sure what a "good" deal is. Dealer holdback for Mazda is reportedly 1% of the MSRP. Meaning, that if the MSRP is 35000 and the invoice is 33000, the dealer cost is 33000-350 = 32,650. Of course dealer profits are based on units sold, so sometimes you can get them to sell under their cost for a variety of reasons. Like you’re interested in an old unit that’s been on the lot a while. They want to move it so they can get a new model year or another unit with more popular option packages. Or maybe this is their 200th unit sold this month and their sales bonus goes up an extra $100 per unit. They stand to make another $20,000 for a single unit, they’re willing to take a little loss for a big gain. Or maybe that individual salesperson is close to their sales goal and will sell it cheap to get a bonus. There’s really no telling. Best things to do are this: 1 - know what options you want, and what the invoice price is for a car built that way. You can ask for the monroney from the dealer to know the sticker price. Easy to find the invoice cost after that. 2 - know your credit score and have a financing offer in hand. 3 - don’t talk about your trade in until you get a price you like. When you do talk about it, know what it’s worth, or at least what you’ll take for it. 4 - tell them you don’t care about payment, you want to know if they’ll take your offer of whatever invoice less holdback is. 5 - if they will, ask them about out the door cost. You should look up your local sales tax and other fees. Refuse lucrative dealer add ons. 6 - if you can, negotiate this over email so once you have an agreed upon price you just show up and buy. I’ll say this, I had a good financing offer from my credit union, but the dealer offered me an identical rate so I went with them for giving me what I felt like was a good deal. Got my ‘17 Subaru Forester at 3% under invoice.
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Nov 10, 2017 01:05
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Need a new 3/4 ton truck for work. Lot of work in the city so no diesel needed. Extended cab. 4x4. Towing occasionally, hauling constantly. Pretty much someone else is paying for my work truck and I want something with few features but nice seats, good gas mileage and will last 10 years without a lot of loving around. Got a quote on a f250 that I like but the turning radius sucks. Makes for lovely times in downtown seattle. Thought about a gmc because I have a 1500 now and I love it but the chassis seems real dated? Anyone care about midsize trucks? Anyone care about midsize trucks and use them everyday who can shed some insight?
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Nov 10, 2017 04:38
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The Dark Wind posted:I just moved to Colorado and I'm quickly realizing that I probably can't get by on just biking and taking public transport like I did while I was living in NYC. I'm thinking about picking up my first car ever once I pay off my relocation debt. You can live without 4WD. A good set of snow tires should do the job. Nothing wrong with a Subie per se, it's just going to be expensive compared to other options. If you don't care about driving dynamics, take a look at a Prius, or a Chevy Volt. 2012s are generally in your price range. They're fairly cheap to operate. For more fun driving, try a Mazda 3 or a Honda Civic. More generally, there's a whole lot of cars available that would suit your needs. Which is "better" largely depends on your own preferences. Find something you like and have fun.
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Nov 10, 2017 04:44
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Mcqueen posted:Got a quote on a f250 that I like but the turning radius sucks. Makes for lovely times in downtown seattle. Do you need a 4wd in Seattle? Or are you talking about the slightly less terrible turning radius of a 2wd Ford? Mcqueen posted:Anyone care about midsize trucks? Anyone care about midsize trucks and use them everyday who can shed some insight? Want to be clear before I even go off on this.......are you calling a 3/4 ton truck "midsized" or are you talking about the actual car market definition of a midsized truck? Because if it's the latter you're gonna tear it the gently caress up in 6 months if you're doing 3/4 ton truck worthy hauling all the time. Mcqueen posted:Thought about a gmc because I have a 1500 now and I love it but the chassis seems real dated? Few year old LLY/LBZ duramax is basically unkillable. I know you don't NEED the diesel, but welp.......they also come with the Alison transmission that's not gonna get nuked from hauling.
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Nov 10, 2017 06:41
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Deteriorata posted:You can live without 4WD. A good set of snow tires should do the job. Thanks, this is super helpful. I'm liking the sound of the Prius a lot actually, gonna start doing some digging. A quick look at autotrader shows 2012s being a little above my budget with 2008-2010 being more in lines with what I can do, although I guess this isn't including negotiation? What kind of years should I be looking at for the Mazda and Civics? Thanks once again!
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Nov 10, 2017 18:59
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Motronic posted:Do you need a 4wd in Seattle? Or are you talking about the slightly less terrible turning radius of a 2wd Ford? quote:Want to be clear before I even go off on this.......are you calling a 3/4 ton truck "midsized" or are you talking about the actual car market definition of a midsized truck? Because if it's the latter you're gonna tear it the gently caress up in 6 months if you're doing 3/4 ton truck worthy hauling all the time. quote:Few year old LLY/LBZ duramax is basically unkillable. I know you don't NEED the diesel, but welp.......they also come with the Alison transmission that's not gonna get nuked from hauling. I’ll look into it, I always thought you wouldn’t want a diesel for lots of stop and go quick trips? I love Allison in our International, it’s amazing.
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Nov 11, 2017 05:06
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You're not going to get as much benefit from a fuel cost perspective from the diesel for in town trips. If you aren't towing and are mostly using bed capacity on in town trips a gas V8 is fine. The L96 in the Sierra/Silverado 2500HD is a good engine. I'm not convinced that I would spend the money on the GMC badge. It sounds like you plan to buy new, is that the case?
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Nov 11, 2017 12:27
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Just something to be aware of, modern clean diesel vehicles can have hefty repair costs when it comes to the emissions systems.
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Nov 11, 2017 16:14
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I've got a not-so-hot budget and I've been looking at the 2017 Chevy Spark. I know it's a clown car, but I've heard that it got a passable safety rating, a rarity for the compact market. The $10k pricetag is about right, too. Has anyone heard anything good or bad regarding this year's Spark?
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Nov 11, 2017 16:52
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Is there any reason you aren't shopping used cars with that budget?
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Nov 11, 2017 17:03
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why are you buying a new car
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Nov 11, 2017 17:06
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IOwnCalculus posted:Is there any reason you aren't shopping used cars with that budget? I had considered a few of the earlier sedans, but the monthly payment they showed me was fairly reasonable and the 10 year warranty was really enticing. One caveat I forgot to mention is I have to stick with Chevy; I've got family willing to kick in a bit on the condition it's Chevy.
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Nov 11, 2017 17:10
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Father Wendigo posted:I've got a not-so-hot budget and I've been looking at the 2017 Chevy Spark. I know it's a clown car, but I've heard that it got a passable safety rating, a rarity for the compact market. The $10k pricetag is about right, too. Has anyone heard anything good or bad regarding this year's Spark? The Spark is a good little car, generally. Edmunds' TCO rates it about average in maintenance and repairs. Like other little cars (such as the FIAT 500 or Smart), it's not great on the highway. It handles well, though, so if most of your driving is in town, it should be fine. Its main virtue is being cheap.
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Nov 11, 2017 17:10
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Father Wendigo posted:I've got a not-so-hot budget and I've been looking at the 2017 Chevy Spark. I know it's a clown car, but I've heard that it got a passable safety rating, a rarity for the compact market. The $10k pricetag is about right, too. Has anyone heard anything good or bad regarding this year's Spark? Almost certainly, you'd be better off financially in the long run if you got a used car and you'd be able to get a better car. (not that the Spark is a bad car)
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Nov 11, 2017 17:15
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Buy a gently used Cruze then. You can find a new one for like seventeen grand, they depreciate rapidly, they built a million of them, and they're a lot better than the loving Spark. The Sonic is also better than the Spark but not as common. No offense here man but you are like, the worst car buyer in the world, the kind of guy that a sales manager salivates over. "the monthly payment was reasonable" - what were the terms? how long? what interest rates? what was the OTD price used to calculate that monthly payment? You probably also have to consider how worthwhile it is to get that sweet sweet GM family member loyalist cash. How much are they kicking in? edit: the Spark is a bad car. It's cheaply designed, noisy, under-powered, and uncomfortable. It's one of the worst cars being sold in America today. It also costs 13,000 dollars lmao edit2: Carmax, which doesn't even have very good prices, has 2014 Cruzes all day for just under 12k KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Nov 11, 2017 |
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Nov 11, 2017 17:16
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:edit: the Spark is a bad car. It's cheaply designed, noisy, under-powered, and uncomfortable. It's one of the worst cars being sold in America today. It also costs 13,000 dollars lmao Well yeah, but is it bad compared to other cars that are 10-13k brand new?
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Nov 11, 2017 20:12
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Thermopyle posted:Well yeah, but is it bad compared to other cars that are 10-13k brand new? I'm pretty sure you can get a manual Fiesta for that if you absolutely wanted a new car.
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Nov 11, 2017 20:51
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Thermopyle posted:Well yeah, but is it bad compared to other cars that are 10-13k brand new? The Kia Rio is better for the same amount of money, for sure. The Accent is a little better for slightly more money. The Fiesta is about the same base MSRP and is significantly better. The Spark is noncompetitive. It might be better than the Versa?
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Nov 11, 2017 21:00
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There are new manual focus going for about $12k in my area.
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Nov 12, 2017 01:11
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I just spent half the day wandering around looking at trucks and for reference I would consider myself knowledgeable about cars. I found a 2017 for F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 5.0 v8. It is a single cab with a 6.5' bed. So the shortest wheelbase. It also has the FX4 package and the 3.73 locking rear differential. It is a hoot to romp around in. They were initially asking 46k and I said 30k. It is new and I got the dealer to offer a price that is around $31,500 including DMV fees. The truck drove and fit me great. I can buy this cash if I need to, but I think I would put 15k or so down and finance the rest. My current car is a 2003 focus hatchback that runs well, but is worth very little and is going to need suspension work in the near future. Is this a decent deal? This is in the pacific northwest of the US. I would want to own this for the foreseeable future with my preference being to buy another smaller car later if needed. I am looking for something that is going to be fun, reliable and last me a while. EDIT: I priced this on truecar and kbb and they showed 32k and 37k for whatever that is worth. When I build the same thing online but for a 2018 with the 10 speed it is is about 40k. Hotbod Handsomeface fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Nov 12, 2017 |
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Nov 12, 2017 03:21
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Full-size trucks never sell for sticker but if you're already below Truecar by that much, it sounds solid to me.
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Nov 12, 2017 03:37
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$10k new car sounds fine if you can put up with it. It's a bad car, but if you're going to own it until its worthless anyway at least you'll have the powertrain warranty. Everybody is suggesting bigger, more comfortable, more powerful cars that cost more money than this Spark if you're really getting it for $10k. I rode a 45 mile one-way carpool in a friend's Spark for the better part of a year and it was fine. That was even the old one with a less powerful engine. The one you're looking at is a stick, right? Edit: With the super cheap new cars like Sparks you have to realize that they have the combination of being worthless like beaters, but also having the astronomical repair costs of new cars. My coworker's 2014 Spark died last year when his son rear-ended a truck at <10mph. That's enough to total a 3 year old spark no problem. The truck he hit had no damage. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Nov 12, 2017 |
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Nov 12, 2017 04:12
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I mean a spark is pretty much worthless once you take delivery. Unless you NEED a NEW car because of some law or restriction on spending or something go get a used civic or fit or something.. you'll end up way happier than driving the hunk of crap that is a spark. Edit: forgot the gm restriction, sorry your family hates you. I mean a spark is a aouth Korean hunk of crap, any Civic will be far more 'merican than a spark (basically an ex daewoo) https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Spark tater_salad fucked around with this message at 09:00 on Nov 12, 2017 |
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Nov 12, 2017 06:58
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Father Wendigo posted:One caveat I forgot to mention is I have to stick with Chevy; I've got family willing to kick in a bit on the condition it's Chevy. Do they work for GM or something? Do they hate you? And does it have to be a new Chevy? A used $10k Cruze is still going to be a way better choice than a new $10k Spark.
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Nov 12, 2017 08:18
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A private sale just opened up within a couple hundred kilometers of me. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/lethbridge/2010-mazda-3/1311709411 Does anybody see any reason why this would be a terrible deal? (assuming it has everything I need, and they let me take it to a mechanics for a quick inspection?) Edit: Prices are in Canadian Fun Bux Mezzanon fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Nov 12, 2017 |
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Nov 12, 2017 20:06
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Mezzanon posted:A private sale just opened up within a couple hundred kilometers of me. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/lethbridge/2010-mazda-3/1311709411 2010 Mazda 3's have lots of problems : https://www.carcomplaints.com/Mazda/MAZDA3/2010/
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Nov 12, 2017 20:39
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EugeneJ posted:2010 Mazda 3's have lots of problems : hmmmmmmmmmm. Thanks for the warning! (also holy poo poo) What about the 2006? https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/lethbridge/2006-mazda-3/1306489046 https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/lethbridge/mazda-3-for-sale/1273877491
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Nov 12, 2017 21:03
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I was recently in a wreck and I totalled my 2006 Infiniti G35, and I am looking to replace it. I have a budget of around 8000$. This caught my eye but I've never gotten a car from Craigslist https://hickory.craigslist.org/cto/d/2007-lexus-es350-loaded/6383971831.html
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Nov 15, 2017 23:35
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Fat_Cow posted:I was recently in a wreck and I totalled my 2006 Infiniti G35, and I am looking to replace it. I have a budget of around 8000$. The ad has been deleted. I guess it's already sold. Hope you find something else you like.
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Nov 16, 2017 05:57
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lol I took my brothers 2012 Mazda 3 for a test drive and the car literally died during the 20 minutes I was in it.
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Nov 17, 2017 03:02
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Looking to upgrade from my 2016 5dr Impreza: Proposed Budget: < 30K New or Used: Either or Body Style: 4dr, midsize or SUV How will you be using the car?: Commuting to work, so I would like something that's fancy inside with lots of nice features. Will also be used in snow, so AWD would be nice. What aspects are most important to you? Comfort, gadgets inside, safety I currently have a Impreza with the sport premium package, but it's just too small (my knees constantly hit the steering column), and my wife feels claustrophobic in it. I'm looking for something larger, with more creature comforts than what the Impreza offers (auto climate control would be fantastic!). I've been poking around CarMax, but feel weird buying from these strange car wastelands. How are their warranties? Any other suggestions?
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Nov 17, 2017 13:27
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