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JVC and Kenwood merged and are the same company now. It looks like JVC do the lower end stuff and Kenwood does the mid range* *there is no high end
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Oct 27, 2017 07:44
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In my experience with Alpine you over pay and under receive on features. Plus their F/Q equaliser garbage can gently caress off.
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Oct 27, 2017 09:44
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Laserface posted:In my experience with Alpine you over pay and under receive on features. I'll always remember Alpine because 18 years ago someone came and sold an Alpine CD Changer + Navigation System to our pawnshop for like $50 bucks, it was new in the box, probably fell off the back of a truck, put it on eBay and got $4500 for it. Even in 1999 I was like lol who would pay this much for this poo poo.
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Oct 27, 2017 18:52
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Don Dongington posted:The issue with tapping the rear speakers off a stock deck is always that manufacturers build in a high pass filter to stop you from blowing the rears listening to Lil' Jon at half volume. It sounds like you're not getting hit too badly by this, so it sounds like it's not a particularly savage roll off. I appreciate it, haven't been in the car audio for so long and I really just want to spend a minimal amount of time trying to modify the car, but while still spending enough money to do it right and not feel like I'm in my cheap 20s again instead of my 40s. I even got a (Scosche) LOC from Crutchfield along with the sub and box just in case but I'm now leaning toward adding that L2Ci.
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Oct 27, 2017 19:35
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I just got me a 2007 tacoma and the lack of an audio in jack is killing me. Quick and dirty google and amazon searches have led to mixed reviews so I thought I'd ask here. I just want a 3.5mm port I can plug my phone into, the kits I have seen apparently suffer from volume throughput and build quality issues. Any advice is appreciated. It's a single disc in dash stock unit, if that allows for any generic solutions. OMGLASERPEWPEWPEW fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Nov 2, 2017 |
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Nov 2, 2017 01:54
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https://gromaudio.com/store/aux1_adapters/toyota_lexus_scion_02-2012_auxiliary_input_adapter_kit.html I have a different unit (Vline) so no clue on this specific units’ sound, but these guys seem to know what they are doing. Since it’s hard wired it should be good for sound.
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Nov 2, 2017 03:01
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Is there some kind of setup I can attach to my car stereo that will hop on my wifi so I can just push new music to it at will rather than having to disconnect and bring in my dedicated ipod to load up albums? Supposedly the ipod can sync over wifi but it doesn't actually work and the battery dies way too fast if I leave wifi on anyway 
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Nov 2, 2017 20:35
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Can anyone recommend a good resource for an absolute noob to car stereos? I have a 2000 Jaguar XK8 convertible with a radio cassette deck, trunk mounted changer, no amp and these speakers:  From what I've read there is no chance of getting a harness adapter to fit an aftermarket radio in this car; so I figure I'd like to build an entirely new system from the ground up. By that, I mean, I'll get +12v, Accessory, Illumination and wheel interface out of the existing harness, then put an amp in the trunk and run the speakers from there. Thing is, though, while I've changed head units before I've always relied on their internal amplifier - and in those cars I didn't replace the factory speakers. If anyone can recommend a guide to picking the right components to get a good system together without going overboard I'd appreciate it.
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Nov 11, 2017 19:14
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It really depends on what you're going for, SQ, big bass /high volume (SPL), or good value. For value, Pioneer digital range amps are super good right now, an their class D monoblock subwoofer amps are the best value on the market, so while not exactly the highest quality they're great and easy to install for a novice. For head units, basically pick the one that has the features you want and will work with your interior. Most of them let you tune the lighting to match somewhat now. Alpine and Pioneer are probably the most popular, with Sony and Kenwood offering slightly cheaper stuff with good features, but kinda awful to look at. You need one with 6x4V preouts, because anything with 4x or 2v pres is going to be garbage, and will prevent you from running a sub, which you want to do if your going through this effort. For speakers, Polk, Infinity, Hertz and Clarion are all pretty decent for the price. If you want to go high end you probably need to talk to someone with money, but McIntosh, Audison, Boston Accoustic and the higher end Hertz stuff are some brands to look at. If you just want to build a thumper and annoy the elderly, Alpine JL and Kicker have what you need. Just FYI: Rear speakers aren't really important, and you can get away with some cheaper pioneers ran off the head unit just fine, but it's super easy to wire rear deck speakers to a trunk mounted amp, so you may as well. Don't go through the effort of running new speaker cable into rear doors though. You'll be wanting to fade them right down to avoid making GBS threads up your stereo image. You want to spend most of your money on front component speakers, then sub, then your amp and head unit, with the rears either left factory or if broken, replaced with cheap stuff. Some people even remove rear deck speakers entirely to allow more sub bass to get through into the cabin. It's a personal thing though.
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Nov 12, 2017 05:54
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Don Dongington posted:It really depends on what you're going for, SQ, big bass /high volume (SPL), or good value. Just to piggy back off of your post, I would add Focal and Morel to the list of mid to high end speakers. For subs I would add Dayton HO or Ultimax to the list. Awesome quality and value.
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Nov 12, 2017 06:43
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Thanks; Based on your advice, here's where I am so far: Head Unit: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X501 - has the features I want, looks passable, and it has 6-channel preamp outputs (5-volt front, rear, and subwoofer) Speakers: Here's the complication:  For the front either Infinity Reference REF-6520cx or JBL Club 6500C (both feature a 6.5" Woofer mounted in each door, and a tweeter mounted in the dash). The rear is more complicated; depending on the trim, the car either had 2x 6.25" full-range speakers (mine has this - as shown in the post further up) or two 6.25" long-throw sub-woofers. The rear speakers are mounted in the panels beside the laughable rear "seats" that you get in a convertible - with the driving position and the small cabin, you're actually pretty close to the rear speakers - and they are at roughly chest-level. So I'm thinking I'd prefer to go the "woofer" route - meaning, two front mids and tweeters, with two rear 6.5" woofers. Does this setup make sense? What kind of amplifier would I need to run this (like, would a 4-channel be enough?). As far as what I'm trying to achieve, my daily driver is a 2017 Impreza with the Harman Kardon upgrade, which sounds excellent. It's not ridiculously bassy (no subwoofer) but it sounds great to me, even without one. I'd like to replicate the quality of this system as much as I can, even though I have much less space and thus have to use fewer speakers.
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Nov 12, 2017 17:58
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Honestly if there's only room for a 6.25" woofer in the back, I'd just get a good set of components for the front and leave the stock poo poo in the back and disconnect it. I don't think you're going to gain much from have 2 sets of woofers firing in different directions. If you could fit an 8" subwoofer or similar back there and cross it over at about 80-100HZ it'd probably be better, but that's not going to work given the space constraints. What's behind those blown-rear end speakers in the back? does that go straight into the trunk (golf bag hole in your case I suppose)? or is it a sealed cavity?
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Nov 13, 2017 03:08
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Don Dongington posted:What's behind those blown-rear end speakers in the back? does that go straight into the trunk (golf bag hole in your case I suppose)? or is it a sealed cavity? To be honest I'm not exactly sure; there are two higher trims of stereo for this car, both of which have a variation of this housing on each side:  This is from the next trim up - two 6.25" sub-woofers. The top trim adds a small tweeter in the corner of the unit. All three of the speakers fit behind the exact same mesh cover, so I'm hoping this housing is what's under the foam. If not I could just buy these enclosures (this photo is from an eBay auction) and use them - $100 for the pair. I am pretty sure I'll want more than just the front component set - it does get kinda loud with the top down - unless you think a decent component set on its own is enough?
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Nov 13, 2017 03:46
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sarcastx posted:To be honest I'm not exactly sure; there are two higher trims of stereo for this car, both of which have a variation of this housing on each side: You'd probably need an amp to drive those, although at worst they'd be some weird impedance like 2ohm and probably <100W so any aftermarket stereo amp that's 2ohm stable would probably drive them. They won't be able to keep up with even a modest set of aftermarket components though. The biggest noticeable difference between aftermarket and factory speakers is headroom in my experience. Stock stuff is designed to work with low power factory head units or small, poorly cooled factory amps (almost all luxury vehicles or upgraded trim stereos I've touched typically have a discrete amp somewhere), so you'll find what bass those things offer won't be able to compete with those Focals or JBLs or whatever you end up with. Is it possible to remove those units and stick a 10 or 12" sub in a sealed box in your boot space, or is there simply not room for that? even something like a shallow depth pioneer 10" is going to move more air than those things: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSX2502/Pioneer-TS-SWX2502.html
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Nov 13, 2017 03:54
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If disconnecting speakers, remove them also. A driver left suspended with no input will act like a sponge and actively suck up vibrations meaning you'll lose spl from the moving drivers. Kinda pointless loss if you're buying new poo poo. Same reason why out of phase subs are bad, one pushes, the other pulls and you crank it up with little effect and end up blowing something.
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Nov 13, 2017 12:03
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sarcastx posted:Head Unit: Buy a Pioneer.
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Nov 13, 2017 18:03
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Not sure where to post this but maybe somebody here can help me find what I'm looking for. My car has android auto and I'm looking to find a dock for it that I can just drop the phone in rather than hooking up the cable to the port and letting the phone flop around in the cup holder or whatever. It's a Galaxy S7 but does anybody know of some sort of universal dock/holder with the micro USB built into the dock?
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Nov 14, 2017 15:13
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Can I ask about Android Auto? How long does it take to get from getting in your car to music playing? What I like about my current setup with an SD card instead of Bluetooth is starting my car and music just playing. Fiddling with my phone when I'm just driving a few minutes or running a series of errands would super annoy me. I don't like the idea of plugging my phone in every time, but if it just starts playing the last thing in my playlist I could live with it. Everything else about Android Auto seems like the ideal solution for what I want out of my car head unit.
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Nov 14, 2017 19:27
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IME is about ten seconds from rear end in seat to playing music. I have to plug in and tap the play button though, and occasionally Android Auto will forget which app I was listening to and get it mixed up between my podcast app and Google Play Music. This is not common, but it happens. It takes about another five-teen seconds to fix. Most Android Auto head units still have BT and USB storage support, so you can keep using it the way you currently are, but having the in dash display and voice support is very nice on longer trips. Gripes I have about Android Auto: - Sometimes forgets which music app I'm listening to. - Cannot type into Google Play Music search even though I can type into Google Maps search. - Browsing through podcast lists can be kind of a chore. I love Android Auto, though and the conveniences outweigh the negatives. It's a 9/10 experience for me.
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Nov 14, 2017 22:33
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Nov 14, 2017 22:35
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Wasabi the J posted:Most Android Auto head units still have BT and USB storage support, so you can keep using it the way you currently are, but having the in dash display and voice support is very nice on longer trips. I'd hate to have two different UIs depending on source. I'd be happy with my current setup if my commute was still eight minutes long and if I ever got the Bluetooth microphone to work (streaming is fine, if slow to connect; voice never worked). I'm not upgrading this year, so I'll keep mulling on it. Does USB-C present a problem?
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Nov 15, 2017 00:34
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Nope. I've used both micro USB and USB C in my XAV-AX100. Also Android auto will keep playing the source you were listening to when you plug your phone in. For instance you can keep listening to the radio while Google maps is navigating, etc. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Nov 15, 2017 |
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Nov 15, 2017 00:44
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Uthor posted:Can I ask about Android Auto? At the expense of my question/post being completely overlooked, sure.  I haven't timed it, but I sit down, plug in and then it's about 10-15 seconds I'd guess. This is on a 17 gti with the stock stereo. I love when I get in my beater truck and it immediately connects to Bluetooth and just starts playing automatically. That's why I'm looking for something I can just jam my phone in and futz less with cables.
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Nov 15, 2017 02:07
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Larrymer posted:At the expense of my question/post being completely overlooked, sure. Hey, fellow GTI owner! Sorry for the hijack. I don't have a solution for you, but maybe you can hack something out of a charging dock. Might require some cable splicing.
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Nov 15, 2017 03:08
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Uthor posted:Can I ask about Android Auto? How long does it take to get from getting in your car to music playing? If you're lucky enough to have a car audio shop nearby, swing in and test out your contenders. Like the other guys have said, it's usually around 10-15 seconds from key on to Android Auto these days, but some head units have a longer lag for bootup (and especially for cold boot). Uthor posted:Does USB-C present a problem? Only if you're vehemently opposed to owning a cable that's USB-A at one end and USB-C at the other. Larrymer posted:My car has android auto and I'm looking to find a dock for it that I can just drop the phone in rather than hooking up the cable to the port and letting the phone flop around in the cup holder or whatever. It's a Galaxy S7 but does anybody know of some sort of universal dock/holder with the micro USB built into the dock? If VW doesn't have something you like in their accessories catalog, try ProClip USA. I will warn you now they're rather ugly when your phone is not in them.
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Nov 15, 2017 16:43
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Molten Llama posted:If VW doesn't have something you like in their accessories catalog, try ProClip USA. I will warn you now they're rather ugly when your phone is not in them. I just decided to try a cheapy dock for my phone and hope it fits in the cup holder. There's a lot of variables (case thickness, phone model, etc) and phones change all the time so I get why something like this doesn't exist, it's just annoying.
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Nov 16, 2017 01:30
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Is Geek Squad installation actively bad or just not worth it? I found a couple of Pioneer units I like and Best Buy has them listed in their Black Friday ad with installation included.
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Nov 16, 2017 22:30
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Captain Cool posted:Is Geek Squad installation actively bad or just not worth it? I found a couple of Pioneer units I like and Best Buy has them listed in their Black Friday ad with installation included. It depends on if you want to have someone else wire up the adapter harness (or hack the poo poo out of your wiring), or if you want to do it yourself. Also depends a lot on what's included in the installation. Simply wiring up an adapter harness and swapping out a head unit isn't too complicated, but if you also want a iPod/USB hookup and/or microphone for bluetooth and/or etc those can get a bit more time consuming to do yourself.
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Nov 16, 2017 23:51
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MikeyTsi posted:It depends on if you want to have someone else wire up the adapter harness (or hack the poo poo out of your wiring), or if you want to do it yourself. From searching online, it looks like the labor is included, but they frequently charge $40-65 for parts because they require their own overpriced bracket and harness.
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Nov 17, 2017 17:13
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I would just do it yourself then, unless you have some painfully difficult trim removal. Crutchfield provided detailed instructions, free parts, and even resolved a stupid wiring problem over the phone in ten minutes.
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Nov 17, 2017 17:27
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Wasabi the J posted:I would just do it yourself then, unless you have some painfully difficult trim removal. Crutchfield provided detailed instructions, free parts, and even resolved a stupid wiring problem over the phone in ten minutes.
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Nov 17, 2017 20:47
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Captain Cool posted:I would order from Crutchfield but I may be able to save $100 by ordering from Best Buy next week. You need to add the cost of the wiring adapter, bezel adapter, and such to that cost. Crutchfield I believe gives you them for free, you're gonna have to pay extra for them if you buy from Best Buy.
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Nov 17, 2017 23:14
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Crutchfields free stuff maxes out at $50. So if your stuff costs more than that, its something to keep in mind. There however are very few cars that are truly outrageous though, like my mazda 6 was. 
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Nov 18, 2017 02:36
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Yeah, Crutchfield's free tier may require extensive disassembly/rewiring if you have premium audio or a special snowflake vehicle. If you want or need major CAN bus black magic (or, God help you, vehicle controls) in your adapter or trim, they just knock ~50% off regular prices. (Which is often still better pricing and better quality than you'll do elsewhere, but is obviously not free.)
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Nov 18, 2017 02:47
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It can be worse than that. They took $50 off a $250 install kit. It was still the cheapest option and I still need to wire my steering wheel controls in or change my steering wheel to something less ugly.
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Nov 18, 2017 03:04
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MikeyTsi posted:You need to add the cost of the wiring adapter, bezel adapter, and such to that cost. Crutchfield I believe gives you them for free, you're gonna have to pay extra for them if you buy from Best Buy.
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Nov 18, 2017 06:15
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So much for that free install. If you already have the tools you'll need (crimpers, strippers, crimps, screwdriver, couple of zip ties, and maybe a wrench), go for the DIY approach. The harness makes it dead simple; the colors between the adapter harness and every name brand aftermarket stereo generally match up.
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Nov 18, 2017 09:25
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I have a 2010 impala with a stock stereo and no steering wheel volume controls. I'm looking for an Android Auto head unit to replace the stock stereo. I don't care about upgrading the speakers. Any recommendations for a head unit with a nice interface, is reliable, and not overpriced? The option to play CDs would also be nice.
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Dec 24, 2017 06:38
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No recommendations, but you're going to need an adapter if you want to keep all of the warning chimes/dings/dongs/etc, and the retained accessory power (where your radio stays on for up to 10 minutes after shutting off the engine, or until you open a door). The stock stereo in your car handles all of that, from the key-in reminder to the "DING DING DING" when your car is overheating. I'm assuming you don't have the Bose system, since you don't have steering wheel controls. So there's two options with the adapter - one that retains all OnStar functionality, and one that removes the ability for you to communicate with OnStar. Looks like $100ish to keep OnStar, and $45ish if you don't care about OnStar. Also need an antenna adapter. If you go through Crutchfield, they'll offer two options at first - the most expensive (which is meant for people with steering wheel controls), and the cheapest (which includes that second adapter I linked). If you click on "see all packages and details" (after clicking on "includes deeply discounted installation gear"), you'll get 4 options showing what options are what. Crutchfield costs more than a lot of other places, but the discounts on the mounting kits and wiring adapters make up for it. If you don't care about keeping any of that stuff, https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-2103-Wiring-Harness-Equinox/dp/B000UQ7WPK]this is your cheapest bet, but you'll have to find a switched power wire for the stereo, and also find a ground wire. Personally I recommend keeping all of the warning chimes, at the least, and keep the factory stereo to reinstall whenever you sell the car (it won't work in another car anyway, unless someone has a Tech2 to pair it to the car they want to use it in). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Dec 24, 2017 |
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Dec 24, 2017 08:06
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Thanks for the info. I don't care about OnStar. But I do want all the other chimes and bells and whistles. Thanks.
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Dec 24, 2017 08:20
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