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Any good resources out there for exercises and stretches (or supplements?) I can do during my off days to promote muscle & tendon recovery? I'm worried that simply "not doing anything" isn't enough, and I frequently have to go climbing for work during what is supposed to be my recovery time. I'm mostly concerned about my forearms and wrists. Also, why is tower climbing / ladder climbing so much harder on the wrists for me than bouldering? poo poo leaves me wrecked.
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Nov 22, 2017 14:25
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 15:47 |
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Not an expert but I would guess that ladder climbing is harder because it's much more repetitive motion where bouldering is a bunch of different moves.
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Nov 22, 2017 14:40
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I don't suppose any of you climbing goons are in Las Vegas this weekend?
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Nov 23, 2017 17:31
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armorer posted:I don't suppose any of you climbing goons are in Las Vegas this weekend? I had some friends out there this week but didn't go myself. I usually make it out in the spring.
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Nov 23, 2017 17:33
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Welp, I'm winding down from a week of climbing out here. My buddy leaves tomorrow morning, but I'm free on Saturday and Sunday so I was trying to decide if I wanted to climb even more or let my battered self get some rest. (By which mean rent a motorcycle and drive around in the desert.) If none of you randos are out here though I guess I'll go for the bike option.
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Nov 24, 2017 05:43
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You could rent a pad for a day or two from Desert Rock Sports and roll around the Kraft boulders. Or skip the pad rental and hang out at the Monkey Bar boulder, it's almost always covered in pads.
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Nov 25, 2017 00:56
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What is the right time of year to boulder at Squamish? Is it rainy all winter like the US pacific northwest?
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Nov 26, 2017 00:46
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It didn't rain in Squamish between June and September this year.
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Nov 27, 2017 16:34
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I went climbing with my partner's siblings on Saturday and sent a v3 and a 5.9. Progress 
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Nov 27, 2017 17:07
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We need more pictures in this thread. Good times in and around Red Rocks:            
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Nov 27, 2017 17:45
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Wrr posted:Any good resources out there for exercises and stretches (or supplements?) I can do during my off days to promote muscle & tendon recovery? I'm worried that simply "not doing anything" isn't enough, and I frequently have to go climbing for work during what is supposed to be my recovery time. I'm mostly concerned about my forearms and wrists. I'm wondering about forearm/wrist care also. My wrist popped while bouldering last week and has been a bit sore since. Not sure if I just have mega tight forearms (which I do), or if I really hosed something up. Edit: seems kinda like I have really mild De Quervain's Tendinosis. Guess I'll add that to my list of things to ice and take advil every day and hope it goes away before climbing this weekend. Awkward Davies fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Nov 27, 2017 |
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Nov 27, 2017 17:52
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armorer posted:We need more pictures in this thread. Ugh that looks amazing
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Nov 27, 2017 22:28
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Red Rocks is sick as hell, great pictures. What is the best place to send my Mythos to get resoled?
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Nov 28, 2017 02:41
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I always get stuff done at rock and resole. They've done right by me for over a dozen resoles at this point.
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Nov 28, 2017 03:22
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COOL CORN posted:I went climbing with my partner's siblings on Saturday and sent a v3 and a 5.9. Since V3 is 11c/d you should climb harder on lead. Mons Hubris posted:Red Rocks is sick as hell, great pictures. It is! Also Rock and Resole in Boulder CO.
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Nov 28, 2017 03:48
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OK here are some pics from this year. I don't really snap too many photos. Enjoy! Red River Gorge (some 11a)  Bancroft Peak (mostly class 3 and 4, 1 pitch class 5)  South Six Shooter  Chocolate Corner, Indian Creek (not me in the photo)  Crimson Chrysalis (Red Rock)  Red River Gorge (some 11a me climbing)  Generic Crack, Indian Creek (me belaying)  Unknown 10, Indian Creek (me belaying)  Dark Shadows, 3rd Pitch, Red Rock  Generic Crack Again (me being tired)  Pano on the South Six Shooter 
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Nov 28, 2017 04:05
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spwrozek posted:Since V3 is 11c/d you should climb harder on lead Woah really? I know gym scoring is goofy, but at my gym I can climb v3/4 pretty regularly but only get like 10a/b on lead.
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Nov 28, 2017 04:34
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Boulderer Falls, Pulls 300-Pound Rock With Him
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Nov 28, 2017 04:44
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Quandary posted:Woah really? I know gym scoring is goofy, but at my gym I can climb v3/4 pretty regularly but only get like 10a/b on lead. I boulder way harder than I lead. It's a slightly different set of skills - you might be able to do all the V4 moves individually on a boulder, but after 20ft of V3 climbing, doing a last set of V4 moves is much tougher.
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Nov 28, 2017 04:47
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Quandary posted:Woah really? I know gym scoring is goofy, but at my gym I can climb v3/4 pretty regularly but only get like 10a/b on lead. In the gym V0-V4 is a V0 outside. If they graded as outside is people would not see progression fast enough and get demoralized and not come back. Got to make that money! Routes tend to be closer to reality but it depends where you climb at outside.
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Nov 28, 2017 04:48
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That is gnarly. Looks like the rock pops on the way up but he must not of heard/noticed it.
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Nov 28, 2017 04:52
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spwrozek posted:OK here are some pics from this year. I don't really snap too many photos. Enjoy! Nice! There's so much to climb in Red Rocks. This was my first time out here so I feel like I just barely scratched the surface. I do most of my trad climbing in the gunks and it felt totally different out here on sandstone. The rock formations and features are totally different, pro places differently, and there are some serious objectives (like epinephrine, which I tagged this time around) that are way bigger than anything we have back east.
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Nov 28, 2017 05:02
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armorer posted:Nice! There's so much to climb in Red Rocks. This was my first time out here so I feel like I just barely scratched the surface. I do most of my trad climbing in the gunks and it felt totally different out here on sandstone. The rock formations and features are totally different, pro places differently, and there are some serious objectives (like epinephrine, which I tagged this time around) that are way bigger than anything we have back east. Yeah it is pretty endless. You want to be fit though for sure. some long hikes in and out plus all the climbing.
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Nov 28, 2017 05:14
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Fine - I'll play. - A Todd Skinner 11a in Yangshuo at Moon Hill  - Doug Orr 12a in Skaha. My right foot didn't blow on the send, but this picture is more fun.
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Nov 28, 2017 05:48
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So Tuesday I went to a beginners climber class at PetraCliffs (Burlington, VT). Cost about $100, but includes three days of teaching, three free day passes, and free equipment rentals for both. Not a bad deal at all. Finally got to top-rope and start learning how to belay; been ignoring that aspect of climbing cause I'm too cheap for a harness and don't have anyone to climb with. Class members were pretty much all first time climbers, or people who had climbed only once before. Kinda felt out of place there having climbed since September. Starting to think maybe I'm not a Capital B Beginner, but I wanted the formal education of technique and stuff anyways. Even though it was their first time a lot of the climbers were attempting V1s, 2s, and a 2+ that I thiiiiink I know how to finish for when I head back. But, man, yo, it's so much more fun climbing with a crew than by myself. We made a messenger groupchat and arranged for a climbing day Saturday, I'm so stoked for that and to try the top-roping problems that I couldn't do before.
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Dec 1, 2017 14:17
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Wrr posted:So Tuesday I went to a beginners climber class at PetraCliffs (Burlington, VT). Cost about $100, but includes three days of teaching, three free day passes, and free equipment rentals for both. Not a bad deal at all. Finally got to top-rope and start learning how to belay; been ignoring that aspect of climbing cause I'm too cheap for a harness and don't have anyone to climb with. If you took a (indoors?) top rope class 2 days ago you might want to keep the capital B a while longer climbing friend. Embrace it even!
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Dec 1, 2017 15:43
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Syncopated posted:If you took a (indoors?) top rope class 2 days ago you might want to keep the capital B a while longer climbing friend. Embrace it even! Oh for sure I'm still a beginner, not trying to get ahead of myself or (too) cocky. I'm constantly asking people for advice in the boulder cave on how they do something or another, and I've started really trying to focus on technique to get into good habits. Even got a copy of The Self-Coached Climber! Last Friday I took my sister out to Brooklyn Boulders to try and show her what I've been screaming about for the past few months. She managed to finish a V0 and was pretty proud of herself but didn't really take to climbing. The nerves in her right arm are pretty dead so she says its hard to tell how firm of a grip she has and her brain won't let her let go with the left arm. I told her I'd make her a pressure sensitive glove with pager-motor vibrators up the arm to over-come that, which she appreciated, but looks like climbing isn't for her  Also, thank god it was BOGO day passes there, cost like $32 for the pass alone! The place is big and really nice but mannnnn is that pricey. What are the prices at everyone's local gyms? Bouldering only runs me about $14 per day pass at Petra. Am I spoiled? Wrr fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Dec 1, 2017 |
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Dec 1, 2017 17:58
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I think day passes at my gym are $25 or so? But monthly membership is around $80 so that’s a no brained since I go 2-3 times a week.
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Dec 1, 2017 18:02
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COOL CORN posted:I think day passes at my gym are $25 or so? But monthly membership is around $80 so that’s a no brained since I go 2-3 times a week. I'm hoping to get to the point where I go more than once a week, but I've somehow managed to get a surprisingly full schedule and I'm not super sure if my muscles and tendons can handle it? Starting to think that bouldering once a week, but to the point of being incapable of climbing each time, isn't the best idea.
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Dec 1, 2017 18:11
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I’ve been climbing about the same amount of time as you and I’ve been able to work it up to 3 days a week. My first time going a second day in the same week I got like 3 or 4 easy climbs in before I had to call it because of what I guess was pretty intense tendon pain. But just get out there the extra day even if it’s only for a little bit and you’ll adapt pretty quickly. Even with 3 days now things have yet to hurt again like it did that first time doing a second day. Just don’t be a dumbass and try to keep climbing on sharp pains. Prices at the gym I go to, ABP in Austin, are 16 for a day pass or 70 for the monthly membership. 10 visit punch cards are something like 80% of the day pass price.
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Dec 1, 2017 19:07
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PetraCliffs was where I first learned to climb and where I took my now wife on one of our first dates. This post makes me happy.
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Dec 1, 2017 19:15
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Y'all should be careful. Tendonitis and other injuries are real easy to get. I climbed about 3x a week for the first year I was climbing, and then started getting injured. Tendonitis in my knee and then in both rotator cuffs. It sucked and still sucks. If you climb that much, do the work to protect yourself. Do dynamic warmups before you get on the wall (bouldering is not a warm up). Make sure you're stretching and doing oppositional work. Climbing tightens everything. If you dont manage it will cause problems. Dont climb through pain.
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Dec 1, 2017 19:16
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Can confirm tendonitis in the shoulder / rotator cuff is a stubborn bastard and hurts like gently caress if you let it get too bad.
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Dec 1, 2017 19:43
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Wrr posted:So Tuesday I went to a beginners climber class at PetraCliffs (Burlington, VT). Cost about $100, but includes three days of teaching, three free day passes, and free equipment rentals for both. Not a bad deal at all. Finally got to top-rope and start learning how to belay; been ignoring that aspect of climbing cause I'm too cheap for a harness and don't have anyone to climb with. Hell yeah it is. I formed a bouldering meetup in Austin back in September and it has been one of the best decisions I've made this year. Met lots of fun, laid back people and we now hang out regularly.
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Dec 1, 2017 20:04
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It's ridiculous how impossible a move can feel right before you do it like nothing.
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Dec 3, 2017 18:50
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Syncopated posted:It's ridiculous how impossible a move can feel right before you do it like nothing. That happened to me today. I was pumped, there was a hold right above a shelf that I thought there was no way I would reach. But I tiny-dyno'd up to it and stuck it and was like "huh, cool." Then I failed and fell to the mat, but STILL.
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Dec 3, 2017 20:32
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I did my first ever proper big dyno today on a climbing route rather than a boulder problem. I had the exact same thing happen where I pretty much thought "well this is going to be tough, let's see what happens" and nailed it almost perfectly first time. Except I was so surprised that I actually made the distance that I completely fluffed the holding on when you get to the other end bit  Still felt pretty sweet though and I got it with a couple more tries. In retrospect it wasn't a particularly hard move but it's certainly different to what I'm used to!
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Dec 3, 2017 22:22
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I'm terrible at dynos. Every time I'm trying one at the gym it takes me a good five or six attempts to pull off. Naturally, the two times I've faced dynos outside, I stuck them both. Problem is, if I had been using my feet properly, they would have been unnecessary.
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Dec 4, 2017 03:43
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Spent 3.5 hours at the climbing gym this Saturday with some of the crew. I got to try out top-roping stuff for the first time and it really is just crazy different from bouldering (obviously, but still). There's just so many, like, options! I could feel myself knowing that I should be focusing on technique but getting overwhelmed at all the possible places I could move or use as holds. Gonna be great building up the beta planning skills. Only did a 5.4 & 5.5, which are baby easy mode for sure, but even then just a world of difference from pure bouldering.
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Dec 4, 2017 14:31
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He's not dead and he drove himself to the hospital. Article (WARNING: BLOOD AND STUFF) https://bkclimbing.wordpress.com/2017/08/31/my-climbing-accident/ https://i.imgur.com/btoFQWl.gifv
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Dec 4, 2017 16:57
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