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What hot hatch do you own? This poll is closed. |
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| Golf GTI / R / R32 |
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196 | 0.02% |
| Impreza WRX / STi |
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133 | 0.01% |
| Mazdaspeed 3 |
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92 | 0.01% |
| Veloster Turbo |
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20 | 0.00% |
| Focus ST |
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149 | 0.01% |
| Other Hot Hatch |
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230 | 0.02% |
| Elantra GT |
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1000001 | 99.92% |
| Total: | 1000821 votes | ||
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Well my snow tires ended up being a boondoggle, mostly because I'm an idiot. I was all psyched to get Blizzaks installed from Costco for what ended up looking like a dirt cheap price. I was pretty pumped because I'd stupidly curbed my right front tire in our work parking garage and bubbled it the night before I was due to have them replaced, so it went from "something nice to have" to "urgent project." Unfortunately, I'd ordered tires that were 18" instead of 19" ugghhh. I trusted the tire installation app which said they'd fit, not realizing it was for 18" rims (which I'm pretty sure isn't an option on the Golf R, but still my bad). Couldn't get wheels in a timely fashion, had to special order some Pirelli 19" snow tires instead and go with Discount Tire instead of Costco; long story short it ended up being almost double the cost. Oh well, you live you learn. Glad it's just money. Love the feel of the new Pirelli's.
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Dec 3, 2017 18:10
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:I trusted the tire installation app which said they'd fit, not realizing it was for 18" rims (which I'm pretty sure isn't an option on the Golf R, but still my bad). A lot of snow tire sellers will show both the factory size and the common size for use with a downsized wheel because that's usually the better choice. For anything that runs a large OEM wheel you almost always are better off buying a set of the smallest wheels that can fit over your brakes and putting snow tires on those. The tires are often cheap enough in comparison that the wheels pay themselves off with the first set. From there on out every new set of winter tires is a few hundred bucks saved. On top of that you gain some ride quality and ability to handle potholes, you can run cheap and repairable wheels, and you can change them in your driveway with basic tools rather than paying someone else to do it for you. For next time around it looks like 17" is the winning size for the Golf R. Some wheels don't fit due to tight caliper clearance against the spokes, but apparently a lot of takeoff OEM wheels from other VAG models work well. At least at Tire Rack you'd save $100 a piece on the tires which easily pays for the wheels.
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Dec 3, 2017 19:57
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Bajaha posted:Yeah, you gotta know the signals for recognizing others in similar cars. I tried to wave at another Miata driver and it looked like I was saluting Hitler.
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Dec 4, 2017 07:37
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Hey y'all, ve been looking at getting a 2017 GTI Sport in a couple of months. If you guys don't mind I have a couple of questions: 1) Right now the best offer I've received is $23,270 for a manual and $24,270 for the DSG, not including tax, title, or license. Any thoughts about this price? 2) The 2018 GTI is not at the showroom yet generally but is supposedly debuting before the end of Fall (last I heard?). Would waiting for the 2018 models to drop be a really good idea in terms of a better price/incentives? The only thing is that my lease ends in about 2.5 months, so I would really need a new car before then, but I can generally afford to wait for a bit. 3) Any general tips on getting this to go smoothly? I'm in CA if that helps.
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Dec 7, 2017 08:17
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that price seems good for CA i would not expect any significant discounts when the 18s hit the lots. sport model is going away in 18 and it's back to a S/SE/Autobahn options.
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Dec 7, 2017 15:08
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If the 18's drop after Dec. 31st, usually dealerships have some kind of end-of-the-year sale with good discounts/incentives. Check your dealerships toward the end of December.
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Dec 7, 2017 15:30
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Check this thread http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6982631-What-are-people-paying-thread/page209
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Dec 7, 2017 17:11
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I'll be in the market for a new-to-me (2016-2017 model likely) car in mid-2018 and have been eyeing the Civic hatchback. What are some of the consensus thoughts on this? I like the stylings and amenities that Honda provides. I have three kids, but won't be the primary vehicle they'll be in so just need something that they can reasonably fit in from time to time. Bonus points for throwing the dog in the trunk which has me leaning toward hatches, which I've always had a fondness for.
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Dec 7, 2017 17:21
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Taima posted:Hey y'all, ve been looking at getting a 2017 GTI Sport in a couple of months. If you guys don't mind I have a couple of questions: I just picked up a 17 sport w/DSG for $26.4 OTD. It had about $400 worth of accessory bullshit (floor mats, cargo system, mud flaps) that I didn't want. Sport was the exact trim I'd build if I had the option, so I wanted a MY17. In 18 the warranty length doubles (if that's important to you) but the trim goes away as was stated.
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Dec 7, 2017 17:45
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TraderStav posted:I'll be in the market for a new-to-me (2016-2017 model likely) car in mid-2018 and have been eyeing the Civic hatchback. What are some of the consensus thoughts on this? I like the stylings and amenities that Honda provides. I have three kids, but won't be the primary vehicle they'll be in so just need something that they can reasonably fit in from time to time. Bonus points for throwing the dog in the trunk which has me leaning toward hatches, which I've always had a fondness for. it's not really much of a "hatchback"
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Dec 7, 2017 17:46
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How miserable are Fiat 500's to daily? Not Abarths, just the POP trim level. I need a daily I don't have to care about and there's a few higher mileage ones locally for under $4K.
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Dec 7, 2017 17:50
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Rhyno posted:How miserable are Fiat 500's to daily? Not Abarths, just the POP trim level. I need a daily I don't have to care about and there's a few higher mileage ones locally for under $4K. My wife and I rented both the Abarth and the regular while we were in Italy and it was amazing. The Abarth was definitely more fun to drive, but the regular base model was fun too. With that said, I've heard they are terrible from a maintenance perspective. Even worse than a Mini, which is saying a lot.
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Dec 7, 2017 18:17
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I've heard that after 100k the engines are a huge catastrophe. So consider that with how high mileage you're looking at, too.
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Dec 7, 2017 18:31
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Rhyno posted:I tried to wave at another Miata driver and it looked like I was saluting Hitler. I miss blinking my NA's popups at other Miatas. Though greyhairs in other Corvettes always wave, so there's that.
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Dec 7, 2017 18:42
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PabloBOOM posted:I've heard that after 100k the engines are a huge catastrophe. So consider that with how high mileage you're looking at, too. Ha, 125K on the clock. Guess that explains the price tag! I still want a FiST next year but I need to get a disposable daily as well. There's a KIA Rio for $1100 around the corner!
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Dec 7, 2017 19:09
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Rhyno posted:Ha, 125K on the clock. Guess that explains the price tag! I still want a FiST next year but I need to get a disposable daily as well. There's a KIA Rio for $1100 around the corner! your MS6 is definitely disposable
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Dec 7, 2017 19:25
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BraveUlysses posted:your MS6 is definitely disposable Nah, I can get a decent amount of cash out of it if I can curb the goddamned door dings.
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Dec 7, 2017 19:39
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Rhyno posted:How miserable are Fiat 500's to daily? Not Abarths, just the POP trim level. I need a daily I don't have to care about and there's a few higher mileage ones locally for under $4K. I was in a brand new one a couple years and I couldn't believe how big of a poo poo pile it was.
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Dec 7, 2017 19:41
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Larrymer posted:I was in a brand new one a couple years and I couldn't believe how big of a poo poo pile it was. It's all good, I've moved on to making offers on KIA hatchbacks.
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Dec 7, 2017 19:42
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Well, 25 pages of keeping up... In Defense of Ryno from a post back in October: I'll smugly remind the internet that in the early days of the Ford Focus that the Ford Performance catalog offered a full RWD conversion kit that you could use with your choice of powerplant including V8. And that brings me back to hating this thread because clearly, the answer is GTI while my GTI appears to be a miserable pile that I got robbed on significantly. But that's my fault being a first time off the internet car buyer. So with an average of 15k on the clock a year that has me looking at the Honda Civic Sport (hatch) which does come in manual and can get bumped up in power from 180 to ~235. Do any of you internet car wizards have availability data on said vehicle in manual? Like there are X available stuff. And because it's Ryno: Rhyno posted:I tried to wave at another Miata driver and it looked like I was saluting Hitler. Are you sure weren't? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5IKdkXvRRs
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Dec 7, 2017 20:03
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Rhyno posted:How miserable are Fiat 500's to daily? Not Abarths, just the POP trim level. I need a daily I don't have to care about and there's a few higher mileage ones locally for under $4K. This car apparently has experienced more severe depreciation than any car manufactured in the past 10 years. I don't know how much is even a fair price for it.
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Dec 7, 2017 20:18
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Fun video. Cammed K20 Civic and new Type R with downpipe on a cold-rear end track by Speed Academy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PLTXOJWvQA
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Dec 8, 2017 00:11
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:This car apparently has experienced more severe depreciation than any car manufactured in the past 10 years. Last time I looked you could get the 500e for stupid cheap. That's the play, I think. My buddy had one for a while before upgrading to a Model S and it was pretty decent.
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Dec 8, 2017 09:23
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Welp, I was just praising my car and how it’s still trouble free at 100k miles , and planned to drive it til it died. A full size redneck Chevy truck with a metal brush guard rear ended me going 35mph while I was stopped. Cars totaled, but I’m fine. Body shop took one look at it and said no way. I just hope I get enough back for the little I owe on it and a nice deposit on something new : / But it took a solid hit and still drives, and more importantly let me walk away without a scratch. Imiss my car already 
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Dec 8, 2017 15:46
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Dr.Caligari posted:Welp, I was just praising my car and how it’s still trouble free at 100k miles , and planned to drive it til it died. Oh no! Glad you’re ok man.
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Dec 8, 2017 16:11
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Dec 8, 2017 20:26
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Buy it back and build a race car!
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Dec 8, 2017 21:03
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Ouch.
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Dec 9, 2017 04:12
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What lifted truck poser was he? He didn't even hit your hatch diffuser.
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Dec 9, 2017 04:32
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Hey! I like in Southern California and have a Focus RS (that rules). I'm looking at getting into track stuff, and I have no idea how to start. I don't need to be some 100% tracknut crazy woman, but I do like the idea of taking it onto a track and driving fast. I am completely lost on how to get started though, and have looked at a few tracks, but they all say they don't take beginners. All the youtube channels I see act like track days are some obvious thing, but I don't really understand how to get into them. If anyone has any advice or recommendations on how to get started, I'd appreciate it (either in thread or in PMs). SerCypher fucked around with this message at 10:08 on Dec 9, 2017 |
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Dec 9, 2017 10:00
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SerCypher posted:Hey! I like in Southern California and have a Focus RS (that rules). Check out the track day and racing thread in AI. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3490129 But really what you want to do is look up your local NASA or SCCA region and see when they host events. Tons of other companies rent out tracks as well (Porsche and BMW clubs for example) and you can sign on with one of their events. You'll need a Snell rated helmet (SA2015), and it's usually suggested to replace your brake pads with track pads (check focus RS forums for recs, or grab some hawks or carbotechs) and get brake fluid (Motul RBF600, etc) in there that won't boil as easy. That's really all you should do for your first day, and make sure you get an instructor and listen. Be humble and soak up as much as you can.
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Dec 9, 2017 12:44
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Dr.Caligari posted:Welp, I was just praising my car and how it’s still trouble free at 100k miles , and planned to drive it til it died. Yeah rule of thumb on rear-end accidents is if it extends to your quarter panels you're probably hosed. Presuming you have your own first-party coverage, and that other driver has good liability coverage, make sure you ask both insurance companies to write a valuation. It's really hard to negotiate a total loss, at least in the state I work in, but if one insurance company writes a better valuation than the other the at fault party has to pay the higher value. If the at-fault party writes a higher valuation you can just take it straight from them and if your insurance writes a higher valuation they'll just pursue that other company in subrogation for the value they write. Also make sure you let both parties know what aftermarket parts you have on it. People tend to miss those if they're not on the VIN. Anything you've done recently for your vehicle grab those receipts. If you feel like you need to negotiate just bear in mind that you have to find something wrong with their evaluation. It's way more about research than negotiation. Most insurance companies don't let their reps raise or lower prices without something to manipulate. If they let us negotiate claims reps would just pay everyone go away money and the company would go out of business. Good luck man valuations are a crap shoot. Edit: yeah that car is done. The visible damage to the bumper and hatch aren't such a big deal but it looks to me like those quarter panels buckled. Eifert Posting fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Dec 10, 2017 |
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Dec 10, 2017 00:59
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Thank you, I will keep this all in mind. I didn’t have any aftermarket except for a Cobb AP, which I already removed. But I had my winter wheels tires (frankly, junk) on them. The OEM rims are in storage in my barn and I’ve been wondering if not having them on the car is going to cost me. I suppose I should make the body shop aware I am still in possession of them, although they aren’t in the best condition either
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Dec 10, 2017 14:46
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Dr.Caligari posted:Thank you, I will keep this all in mind. I didn’t have any aftermarket except for a Cobb AP, which I already removed. But I had my winter wheels tires (frankly, junk) on them. The OEM rims are in storage in my barn and I’ve been wondering if not having them on the car is going to cost me. I suppose I should make the body shop aware I am still in possession of them, although they aren’t in the best condition either If you think the normal wheels are going to be more valuable just leave them off and don't say anything about it they have the market if it affects your value and then you can choose to put the original wheels back on it or keep them and sell them yourself. Some companies are super lazy about their valuations. Some companies will nail ya.
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Dec 10, 2017 20:07
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I do have the gunmetal rado's, which were an added option at the time. The bad news is that 2 of the are not in very good shap and the others have some light scuffing at best . And since they were not on the car at the time, I don't see how they would be counted as part of the damage . I think I will have trouble selling them if I do keep them, but hopefully I can unload them on Craigslist I'm not sure how much if any difference it will make. The wheels on it now are stock '09 Focus rims and all-seasons I bought off of a wrecked Focus several winters ago.
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Dec 10, 2017 23:49
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Just got my winter tires put back on my FiST. They’re Blizzak WS80’s with one season on them, and when I got them I made the terrible decision of not buying dedicated winter wheels so I had to take them in for mounting/balancing on the stock rims. The Blizzaks that were on the front for one season were put on the front again, and they’re at maybe half tread compared to the rears which are practically new tread depth. I get the whole “safer to understeer than oversteer” concept that recommends the better tread goes on the rear, but I’d really prefer to rotate them and even out the wear. Is it significantly better to have the deeper tread on the rear, or should I go ahead and swap the better tires to the front?
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Dec 11, 2017 00:57
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Cellular Suicide posted:Just got my winter tires put back on my FiST. They’re Blizzak WS80’s with one season on them, and when I got them I made the terrible decision of not buying dedicated winter wheels so I had to take them in for mounting/balancing on the stock rims. I'm going to run my fronts up front for two seasons, replace them, and put the new ones on the back. Mine are in roughly the same condition as yours after one season. If I ever put them on again anyway. Mid-December in Colorado and it's still hitting 60 during the day with no snow in sight. I'd put them on if there was reason to go in the mountains, but the no snow thing is happening there too.
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Dec 11, 2017 02:16
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I'd always heard to put the best tires up front and would personally just rotate them. But I have zero empirical data to back this up.
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Dec 11, 2017 02:49
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Depends on what you'd rather have, understeer or oversteer. Old tires on one end is night and day versus tires of the same age on both sides, to me, at least.
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Dec 11, 2017 02:57
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OEM brake fluid is totally fine for a newbie in a Focus RS. It’s boiling point is 530~ and most wont get the brakes that hot.
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Dec 11, 2017 03:07
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