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I keep looking at Dakota Digital clusters for my 57 Chevy, but they're just so expensive.
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Dec 20, 2017 03:37
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Chasing down some hard cold starts. The bad news is a mouse got into the truck and plugged up the air filter The worse news is the air filter housing was off on the inside of the fender even though the clips were done up, seemingly for a very long time. I'm guessing it was searched when it was stopped, stolen, with 2 junkies in it.  It looks like at least the turbo is dusted(although it still makes good boost).  I'm going to pull the a couple intercooler pipes off tomorrow and see how far it got in. I'm hoping the schmoo from 20,000 hours of blowby kept most of it out of the engine. The hard starting seems to be the glow plug relay. the wait to start light comes on and everything but there's no power going through the relay. I jumped the terminals with a screwdriver for 30 seconds and it started right up, so that seems to be it. It probably didn't like getting sprayed with diesel for a couple thousand kms.
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Dec 21, 2017 00:07
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The heater control rod (aka SAAB toilet paper holder) broke on the SAAB....again. I don't really feel like replacing it again (for $20+) but considering it is winter, I do need defrost/defog capabilities for my window, so I needed to manually turn the air distribution drum into the appropriate position with a screw driver. Remove the bezel and HVAC controls with SAAB approved trim removal tool:  Point of failure:  I've heard a rumor of someone building their own one of these with some metal universal joints, I might go that route next time.
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Dec 21, 2017 19:53
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A bendy plastic universal joint. They couldn't have just, you know, made an actual u-joint, with a separate cross, just out of plastic. LEGO has managed it.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:22
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Repair it with LEGO.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:28
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Darchangel posted:A bendy plastic universal joint. They couldn't have just, you know, made an actual u-joint, with a separate cross, just out of plastic. LEGO has managed it. That might have cost them a whole extra $0.002 to manufacture that. Just can't have that kind of rampant waste.
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Dec 21, 2017 23:24
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Replaced the low spec radio in my 2012 Focus with a hi spec one from a high trim model at a pick and pull today. Was in and out under half an hour. No GPS as the GPS antenna wasn't a part of my trim, but there you go.
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Dec 22, 2017 06:36
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In the past couple of weeks... O2 sensor, thermostat, coolant, 1 tire, paid a small fortune in back tolls today, got it inspected... $748.24 so far spent on this loving thing this month (granted, nearly $500 of that was back tolls, with another $1200 owed over 12 months), with another $85 to drop on it in the morning to renew the registration.  This is just counting all the poo poo I've had to do to get it road legal for 2018. NTTA put a block on my registration, so I couldn't renew until I made payment arrangements for back tolls. Have to get it inspected prior to the registration renewal, which forced my hand a little sooner than I wanted on the tire and rear O2 sensor.Need to do little poo poo here and there still just to get caught up on maintenance, but cripes, it's been an expensive month. That's not counting little poo poo like an oil change, a couple of light bulbs, etc. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Dec 22, 2017 |
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Dec 22, 2017 08:50
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nadmonk posted:The heater control rod (aka SAAB toilet paper holder) broke on the SAAB....again. For many years before GM in the c900 and 99, Saab used a metal rod with plastic UJ's in for the heater control linkage. They never broke (Ive got 2 ~40 year old cars with them intact). You could probably 3D print some adaptors to go onto the end of one of these that would end up being better than those stupid toilet roll holders. I've had 3 GM saabs for a couple of years each and this part broke on them all 
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Dec 22, 2017 12:25
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Rhyno posted:Repair it with LEGO. Won't lie, I almost suggested that. You Am I posted:Replaced the low spec radio in my 2012 Focus with a hi spec one from a high trim model at a pick and pull today. Was in and out under half an hour. No GPS as the GPS antenna wasn't a part of my trim, but there you go. Get one. Not sure on Ford, but the one in my buddy's Rogue had a standard connector on it after you removed the Nissan plastic shell. This was when we replaced the OEM nav radio with a Pioneer CarPlay head with nav. Hell, if it's Ford specific, splice the connector on to an after market antenna. It's just coax.
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Dec 22, 2017 15:23
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:In the past couple of weeks... O2 sensor, thermostat, coolant, 1 tire, paid a small fortune in back tolls today, got it inspected... How the gently caress did you rack up so much money in tolls???  Bonus points if you can keep this post under a paragraph instead of your usual novels.
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Dec 22, 2017 16:23
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alright, long time no see my friends Today i have a little picture series for you, just some good old maintenance The Vicitm (not mine luckily), a  The girl who owns this car reported a lack of power and stuttering when accelerating. Given the poor service record i suspected the Spark plugs and e voila  Error 404 - Electrode not found those are Laser welded Plugs, so its not as easy to see where the actual Electrode material ends and the base material starts, but those were done, no question. The threads of the new Plugs get a few brushes of Copper paste as an anti seize. I do this on Engines that lack regular maintenance to reduce the risk of damaging the Cylinder Head when changing seized Spark plugs (it happened to me once... i learned my lesson)  A quick test run verified that the Engine ran a lot smoother and didnt choke on acceleration anymore. very good. Now for the main act. Drum Brake service with new Pads. i have a personal distate for these kinds of Drum Brake systems. Maybe im just incredibly unlucky and always get the seized ones but oh well.... The Drum/Hub seam gets some penetrating oil through the lug holes to make life a bit easier on removal  after the first few hammer strokes it was clear that the wear correction moved the old pads into the drum and created a seam, so that the correction had to be undone manually before i could remove the Drum. I have no pictures of this since its mostly poking around in a dark hole until you get a hold of the wedge that does the auto correction. a little wiggle and tappy tap and the brake pads go back into their inner position. The Drum hided a dirty secret  The old pads were riveted onto the carrier and all pads were broken. luckily the Handbrake mechanic seized up and needed fixing before more cracks occured and the compound disintegrated into the drum. taking apart the Brake system with the hub in place was a no no, given its seized state. So off went the hub Cap to reveal the german "Vielzahn" nut.  with that one out of the way and a few cussed springs and Handbrake cables later, the pads and their guiding plate came out finally  here is a picture showing the Handbrake levers on the old and new pads (its the silver hook on the backside)  the hooks on the old pads were completely seized and needed to be hammered into place to remove the hand brake cables. Upon inspection of the new ones i noticed that they moved rather "rough" back and forth. i added a bit of heavy weight oil and moved them 100 times. the oil that came out of the riveted connection was full of metal particles. it was obvious they were never worn in at the factory. Since i suspect this as the reason why the older levers seized up so bad, i decided to give it an extra bit of love. usually i would have just moved them a coupled more times until the oil that came out looked better, but theres ways to improve it past that. I took a bit of coarse lapping compound (the stuff you use to lap valves into the valveseats) and dilluted it with heavy weight oil. i added the mix to the riveted connection and moved them back and forth another 100 times. after flushing out the gunk with brake cleaner the motion was perfectly smooth. i added a very little amount of high Temp wax to the hand brake rivet and sealed it under a layer of Brake anti seize. the Wax will become viscous at higher temperatures and keep the riveted connection lubricated while the anti seize keeps the wax in and protects the connection further against brake dust and metal shavings. the Brake backplate and the cylinder got their contact points sanded a bit and after a thorough cleaning i added anti seize to all the contact points.  The Drum itself had the nasty edge on it from "behind" the pad so i decided to not only sand the friction surface by hand, but also use an air grinder with a 3M abrasive disk to smoot hout the drum edge again... that will make installation a lot easier here you can see the edge on the Drum just after it came off. i tried to highlight it with an LED light, its the white line on the top edge that shows how the edge protudes over the wear surface.  Smoothing the edge  the Result  finally Cleaning everything  On the other side, right after dissassembly of the Drum, i noticed some very distinctive poo poo stains  a weird black compound sticked to the cylinder and the boona condom looked greasy. some poking reveiled the culprit   a new hydraulic cylinder was due... luckily i managed to get one just in time. i re adjusted the Handbrake cable play and bolted the wheels back on. next week is final adjustments after initial wear in to perfect the travel. thanks for reading! Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Dec 22, 2017 |
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Dec 22, 2017 17:26
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Larrymer posted:How the gently caress did you rack up so much money in tolls??? 
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Dec 22, 2017 17:53
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Larrymer posted:How the gently caress did you rack up so much money in tolls??? Didn't pay them for a year, money was tight while I was working exclusively for Amazon due to the feast or famine nature of their hours. Tack on a bunch of late fees. Also, rude.
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Dec 22, 2017 19:13
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I thought that was so funny but was trying not to be rude. Looks like I gave up.
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Dec 22, 2017 22:49
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Darchangel posted:Get one. Not sure on Ford, but the one in my buddy's Rogue had a standard connector on it after you removed the Nissan plastic shell. This was when we replaced the OEM nav radio with a Pioneer CarPlay head with nav. Hell, if it's Ford specific, splice the connector on to an after market antenna. It's just coax.
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Dec 23, 2017 01:10
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Also, rude. 
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Dec 23, 2017 13:28
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You Am I posted:There's an American site that sells the GPS antenna and wiring for Fords including mine as a standalone item, so might get one. For me to get the factory GPS/DAB/radio antenna mount and wiring will require me to remove the headliner out of the car, which I'm not sure I want to do that. Removing headliners isn’t difficult. Getting them out of any car that’s not a wagon or hatchback and has a windshield is a bitch. In your case, you can probably manage installing the wiring without pulling it out completely. Just pull it down enough to get where you need to. Removing the front seats gives you more room to maneuver the headliner if necessary, BTW.
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Dec 23, 2017 19:39
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After several friends' opinions on what's been causing a weird noise while my engine is running I think I've got it figured out- I'm glad it doesn't appear to be cam walk, or a broken flexplate, or valves hitting a piston like those idiots thought:
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Dec 23, 2017 23:38
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Commander Puddin posted:After several friends' opinions on what's been causing a weird noise while my engine is running I think I've got it figured out- I'm glad it doesn't appear to be cam walk, or a broken flexplate, or valves hitting a piston like those idiots thought: Haha the same thing happened to me. Parked the car because I thought it had piston slap from a very worn out motor (which it was; lots of blow by). Like a year later I go to pull the engine to swap in a fresher one, and as it's hanging on the hoist I notice one bolt, one dirty hole where a bolt has obviously been missing for awhile, and one shiny hole that looked newly vacant. Found my rattling noise.
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Dec 24, 2017 01:29
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Raluek posted:Haha the same thing happened to me. Parked the car because I thought it had piston slap from a very worn out motor (which it was; lots of blow by). Like a year later I go to pull the engine to swap in a fresher one, and as it's hanging on the hoist I notice one bolt, one dirty hole where a bolt has obviously been missing for awhile, and one shiny hole that looked newly vacant. Found my rattling noise. Friend of mine bought a BMW 540i with one of the 32V V8s. The engine has a tendency to undo its oil pump bolts and deposit them in the oil pan. When I drove the car onto the lift I noticed a rattling already. After removing the oil pan I found 3 happy oily bolts inside. Word on the street has it that it get critical when you lose more than 4. Since I had some carbide drills laying around I actually took the time to cross drill all the bolts and lock wire them in place. A good bit of work but in my opinion the safest way to deal with stuff that can't even visually inspected once in a while
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Dec 24, 2017 04:21
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Darchangel posted:Removing headliners isn’t difficult. Getting them out of any car that’s not a wagon or hatchback and has a windshield is a bitch. In your case, you can probably manage installing the wiring without pulling it out completely. Just pull it down enough to get where you need to. Removing the front seats gives you more room to maneuver the headliner if necessary, BTW. Sadly my Focus is a German built one and it's Torx screws/bolts central
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Dec 24, 2017 23:27
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Pulled the valve cover off the S2000 today, did a quick valve check, punched holes in the baffle in the valve cover, capped the PCV on the valve cover and intake manifold, and plumbed in a Moroso oil catch can. It was pushing somewhere between a quart and a quart and a half through the intake per track day, depending on the track. 7 months / 10k miles / 10 trackdays on the valve adjust. Three intake valves (the rearmost on cylinders 2, 3 and 4) moved enough for me to bother loosening them up a little bit, so all is well.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Dec 27, 2017 |
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Dec 27, 2017 05:05
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BlackMK4 posted:Pulled the valve cover off the S2000 today, did a quick valve check, punched holes in the baffle in the valve cover, capped the PCV on the valve cover and intake manifold, and plumbed in a Moroso oil catch can. It was pushing somewhere between a quart and a quart and a half through the intake per track day, depending on the track. 7 months / 10k miles / 10 trackdays on the valve adjust. Three intake valves (the rearmost on cylinders 2, 3 and 4) moved enough for me to bother loosening them up a little bit, so all is well. Cool, cool. But that's a gnarly phone.
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Dec 27, 2017 05:10
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That's the garage phone, lost it out the pocket when I still rode overpowered bicycles 
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Dec 27, 2017 05:15
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I was going to post this in my project thread but I left it for a bit too long so it made its way to the archive. Got my loom prepared for the never ending Barra swap. I swear one day the motor will actually go into the car.  Hopefully over the next week or so I'll start testing this loom in the donor car and then cutting the car up. This one is a few weeks old now but worth sharing. I rid myself of the lovely EF Falcon alloys and threw on the factory XC GXL alloys I got a while back, had to go for some really poo poo tyres on them, gently caress 14x6 wheels. 
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Dec 27, 2017 14:01
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Ansith posted:I was going to post this in my project thread but I left it for a bit too long so it made its way to the archive. Hey, you're still alive! Wondered what happened to the Falcon. Looks pretty good! Only thing I did over the holiday was throw the rear seat back in the AE86 after making sure that the sunroof drains were clear. 
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Dec 27, 2017 16:52
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Ansith posted:I was going to post this in my project thread but I left it for a bit too long so it made its way to the archive. Good you're still getting on with it. I don't remember ever seeing those alloys, anyway good luck on the rest of it and barra swap. I was eyeing a cheap barra swap project myself over the weekend. I've got nothing against putting them in anything at all like toyota, nissan, mits, and if they could fit in a bmw I would do it. But otherwise I wanted to stick with a cheap old ford, and particularly wanted a fairlane, anything from a za to nl (but gently caress ~76-96, has to be older than 76, or newer than 96). Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Dec 27, 2017 |
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Dec 27, 2017 16:56
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Today, I showed a coyote who is boss. Ambient air temp sensor is MIA so it's throwing a CEL (and a big gently caress you to Subaru who disables cruise control for seemingly any CEL  ) and some of the wiring is hosed for the fog light. I ripped off that part of the bumper since it was hanging off but I think the fog light itself is ok. I found what I believe to be an intake resonator in front of the wheel just sitting there, so I threw it in the trunk. Wheel liner and bumper are definitely hosed. Had to chop off part of the liner because it was rubbing on the front tire.Continued to drive the 100 miles or whatever was left of the drive.
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Dec 27, 2017 22:12
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Larrymer posted:
Yea, that's the biggest load of bullshit. Not only does any CEL disable the cruise, the loving light FLASHES CONSTANTLY. It's the most obnoxious god drat thing.
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Dec 27, 2017 22:29
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chrisgt posted:Yea, that's the biggest load of bullshit. Not only does any CEL disable the cruise, the loving light FLASHES CONSTANTLY. It's the most obnoxious god drat thing. It's only supposed to flash if what's wrong is damaging the engine or emissions systems, like a dead coil pack misfire. It's possible that Subaru interprets lack of ambient air temp as that, I suppose.
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Dec 27, 2017 22:43
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Darchangel posted:It's only supposed to flash if what's wrong is damaging the engine or emissions systems, like a dead coil pack misfire. The cruise control light flashes constantly on Subarus when the CEL is on.
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Dec 27, 2017 22:56
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Darchangel posted:It's only supposed to flash if what's wrong is damaging the engine or emissions systems, like a dead coil pack misfire. I assume they more likely use another temp sensor in the MAF or at the manifold rather than this one as it's a better indicator of what the engine will actually get. Suppose it could be used for cold start up but you don't really need to do that. And the CEL doesn't flash, the cruise light flashes. And also the off-road or whatever mode thing flashes with it. Fun! Subaru is the only manufacturer that I know of that disables cruise just to piss you off enough into fixing it. Not that we wouldn't get it fixed in this case, but it did this poo poo on my saabaru when the secondary air system broke. Hmm $1000+ to fix that or $100 for a Tactrix cable to turn that poo poo off and get cruise working? I'll let you guess which route I chose.
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Dec 27, 2017 |
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Dec 27, 2017 23:14
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They probably got tired of "my check engine light has been on for the last 14,000 miles and now my car won't start, warranty me now!
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Dec 27, 2017 23:15
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Got a diagnostic test done today at Tires Plus. The CEL was for several codes which were irrelevant to the main problem of the day that I'm having. Cold weather starts are difficult sometimes & that's what I was worrying about, because I don't want to get stranded at work. According to other M3-specific forums on the internet, the fuel pump relay sometimes is a trouble spot for the E46 model of M3, so I think the next step is going to be to replace that part & see if that fixes the problem. Generally they recommend that you replace the cheap things first, then move your way up the ladder to more expensive things
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Dec 28, 2017 00:08
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Larrymer posted:Today, I showed a coyote who is boss. How fast where you going when you tagged it? I've been lucky to never hit something like that (especially now that I don't live in the north anymore) but it always was a thing I feared rocketing down two lane roads at night. Today I Aquapel'd all the windows and side mirrors on the Rugger, replaced all three wipers as well. Today I received the import packet for the Toyota Crown wagon I'm importing and all the maintenance records, 28 of them. This is the third one-owner car I've imported with a maybe-4th on the LiteAce I have heading here.
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Dec 28, 2017 00:57
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Fo3 posted:Good you're still getting on with it. I don't remember ever seeing those alloys, anyway good luck on the rest of it and barra swap. I'll probably throw up another thread when I actually get into the swap properly. Still got to order the transmission cossmember and engine mounts. I see you've chosen to exclude the ZH, what did the ZH ever do to you? I completely agree though, I'm probably one of the few that like that style but easily like the earlier shapes of Fairlane a lot more. Barra swaps are insanely popular in Patrols now, there's a bunch of them up for sale on a few facebook groups I hunt for parts on.
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Dec 28, 2017 07:08
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I'm hoping my tired brain just forgot to hit submit and didn't put this post in some random thread somewhere. confirming that it is just the GPR that's blown. -28*c block  Jumping the GPR  Smoking out the neighborhood  It only turned over 1-2 times before firing and chugging up to speed. Should be a simple fix once i get the part.
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Dec 28, 2017 07:37
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 Fitted the repaired brake servo, new master cylinder and new reservoir to the RS2. Haven't really tested it, but it seems a lot better!
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Dec 28, 2017 12:38
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KakerMix posted:How fast where you going when you tagged it? I've been lucky to never hit something like that (especially now that I don't live in the north anymore) but it always was a thing I feared rocketing down two lane roads at night. It was on a 70 mph highway in broad daylight between Grand Rapids and Lansing on I-96 (you're from around these parts IIRC), and I usually cruise at 77. Once I saw it come out of the trees on the side of the road I started braking (didn't swerve) so probably somewhere between 50-70. I saw it at first and was like "cool, a coyote, you don't see them much." He stopped at the edge of the road and looked back toward the trees, then decided against it and ran to his death. 
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Dec 28, 2017 14:25
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