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M_Gargantua posted:Swapping out my parents comcast rented cable modem for something bought, there doesn't seem to be a lot of thread recommended options that will work for them. If the modem is handling phone, too, you need a model that handles their VOIP service as well. We generally don't have a list of those in the thread because I imagine most goons are using cell phones or cheap VOIP instead of Comcast. It seems like Comcast does provide a list of compatible ones but you need to use their "my device info" thing to see what is required: https://www.xfinity.com/support/articles/list-of-approved-cable-modems
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Jan 7, 2018 19:58
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I've got two questions about isolated networks/guest networks: 1. Does anyone know more about how to determine if a Guest Network option offered by any given commercial router is any good? I know some routers offer "Guest Mode" networks which from what I've gathered, are quite garbage at actually compartmentalizing your personal home network (and typically broadcast without any WPA standards). I have an Archer C50 router that offers a Guest Network functionality, which so far looks good enough as it offers WPA2 standardized, and allows you to turn off access to viewing other devices on the network. But, how secure (say, on a spectrum from script kiddie to nation-state) is a router-based guest network? Is it truly isolated from the other home network? If my main network has a higher security standard, would this "guest network" option on my router be a weak spot, and so should I look into other captive portal and seperate AP options? 2. Say a friend would like access to a guest network but wired instead of wireless. Is there a way to easily setup a seperate, isolated guest wired network? Or would this require seperate hardware and routers to actually seperate?
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Jan 7, 2018 21:33
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Looking for some help troubleshooting some network issues. I have Comcast internet in to a sb8200 modem --> uniform usg ---> 2x unifi AP lites. For the last several months everything has been perfect, no issues. 2 days ago I went and updated all 3 unifi devices to the latest firmware. And quality went to poo poo. Speed tests show I get my normal speeds, but everything is intermittent. Stuff loads partially and then takes a very long time resolve. I run a Plex server (wired) and it shows remote access available, but it's not working. The connection drops or it refused to populate library's (it works perfect locally though). Unifi controller logs show my unifi devices have been disconnected a few times, all though not constantly. I went ahead and backed the firmware in the USG back to prior levels (from 4.4.12 down the 4.3 something from this summer, but that had t seemed to have any affect. So, what should I look at? What should I test? Should I do a factory reset on the USG? I figured changing the firmware would be enough but clearly I was wrong.
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Jan 8, 2018 02:30
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Why should I bother setting up ipv6 on my router? I know it’s the future and everything but what does it do for me, a random consumer, that just wants to network my house together and enjoy fast internet? It seems like a lot of extra steps to set up ipv6 properly on my EdgeRouter and then having to main two sets of firewall rules and opening starting up more background services and so on. e: My ISP has (does? supports?) IPv6. From what I'm reading among others setting it up with my router and ISP they provide me a static /64 prefix and then I have to set up prefix delegation. Which isn't hard to do but I'm just failing to see why I should even bother? When I type in "google.com" I don't really care if I'm routed through via ipv4 or ipv6 as long as I'm routed through at the speeds my ISP advertise, which I currently get using ipv4. Boris Galerkin fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Jan 8, 2018 |
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Jan 8, 2018 08:50
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I'm considering getting an ERX and two UAP-AC-Lites but I'm unclear if I'll be able to power both from the ERX. I think no, but I'm not very familiar with PoE or these units specifically. Appreciate any thoughts you all have about the best way to do this.
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Jan 8, 2018 18:09
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thiazi posted:I'm considering getting an ERX and two UAP-AC-Lites but I'm unclear if I'll be able to power both from the ERX. I think no, but I'm not very familiar with PoE or these units specifically. Appreciate any thoughts you all have about the best way to do this. The ERX only does POE pass through on one port. You also would need to use an injector on the WAN port, or use a higher wattage power supply. I think the ERX-SFP has POE on all ports, so that might be the better way to go for a similar experience.
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Jan 8, 2018 18:16
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Armacham posted:The ERX only does POE pass through on one port. You also would need to use an injector on the WAN port, or use a higher wattage power supply. I think the ERX-SFP has POE on all ports, so that might be the better way to go for a similar experience. Thanks! The SFP also has the advantage of additional ports so I won't need a separate switch in my use case.
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Jan 8, 2018 18:39
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Boris Galerkin posted:Why should I bother setting up ipv6 on my router? I know it’s the future and everything but what does it do for me, a random consumer, that just wants to network my house together and enjoy fast internet? It seems like a lot of extra steps to set up ipv6 properly on my EdgeRouter and then having to main two sets of firewall rules and opening starting up more background services and so on. IPv6 can have slightly lower latency (I think in my testing it was about 10ms), but nothing I’ve come across depends on it yet. It’s probably not worth much extra work at this point unless you’re playing lots of multiplayer Xbox one games which I believe use ipv6 for peer to peer communications.
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Jan 8, 2018 18:43
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thiazi posted:Thanks! The SFP also has the advantage of additional ports so I won't need a separate switch in my use case. The ER-X-SFP only has the additional SFP Port. If you can use it then that’s great, but I wouldn’t exactly call it additional ports. It will allow 24V PoE on all 5 Ethernet ports though, so you’re good to go there.
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Jan 8, 2018 19:51
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astral posted:An ethernet cable will 99.99% likely fix your problems; your media box is probably in a weak area of your wifi signal by being directly underneath that router/modem. Just wanted to update the thread on this being 100% true. Turns out i've even underestimated my actual bandwidth and plugging in an ethernet instead of the wifi has taken me from 11.5MB/s on average to 25.5MB/s. Now to test the powerline stuff and hope that's the same because holy poo poo that's an incredible speed boost. It has made me think of how i perceive speed boosts now though. For example, at the 11MB speed a gig came down in about a minute or so. Which is pretty fast as far as i'm concerned. Now that comes down in about 30 seconds but i've not really noticed a significant gain because it's just 30 seconds. Steam games i might notice, but even then it's the difference between maybe an hour vs a half hour if the game is brand new and at that point i've already gone off and done something else in that time. I'm just wondering if there's going to be a peak speed vs average file sizes that gets hit where the cost involved with shaving an extra 10 seconds off your download speed isn't worth it. Or are we looking at ever increasing file sizes? edit: well, that's a bummer. The powerline setup is actually slower than my wifi to the other room. Guess the wiring in my flat must be super lovely (max of 10MB/s when i was getting 15MB over wifi). Actually, now thinking about it, is there likely to be any significant drops in signal over powerline if i have things like ceiling lights or other electrical items switched on? Kin fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Jan 8, 2018 |
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Jan 8, 2018 20:15
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thiazi posted:Thanks! The SFP also has the advantage of additional ports so I won't need a separate switch in my use case. I'd still get a separate switch. Not all of those ports on the ER series are able to be used as switchports, since they're designed to be routed interfaces. I think you CAN configure them to act like switchports, but it'll affect router performance, and you likely won't get full line speed across those ports.
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Jan 8, 2018 21:44
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Kin posted:Just wanted to update the thread on this being 100% true. Simple loads like lights are unlikely to cause issues, even washing machines and the like don't seem to do much. It might be different if you have a lot of mains powered power tools operating at the time. The 2 Gbps powerline adapters in the OP only seem to achieve 350-400 Mbps in reviews that I've read. Although I've been tempted to upgrade to the Gbps ones as I'm currently using some TP Link 500 Mbps ones with 100 Mbps ethernet which seem to be adding a lot of latency to my own set up. If you are only getting 10 MB/s over powerline you probably have really lovely old wiring.
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Jan 8, 2018 22:38
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Devian666 posted:Simple loads like lights are unlikely to cause issues, even washing machines and the like don't seem to do much. It might be different if you have a lot of mains powered power tools operating at the time. The 2 Gbps powerline adapters in the OP only seem to achieve 350-400 Mbps in reviews that I've read. Although I've been tempted to upgrade to the Gbps ones as I'm currently using some TP Link 500 Mbps ones with 100 Mbps ethernet which seem to be adding a lot of latency to my own set up. I assumed that was the case. :/ I'm of two minds to return them because when i eventually move elsewhere i can see them being useful for neat home networking if it's a more modern building. They're supposed to have to up to a 600Mb/s transfer rate and i don't see the connections in the UK getting anywhere near those speeds any time soon and it seems like it would give a bit more flexibility than setting cables all around a home.
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Jan 9, 2018 00:40
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I just bought a new house and I want to get all nerdy and dumb with my home networking. I've been reading as much as I can since my knowledge is woefully out of date. I have a Netgear Nighthawk AC1900 that can be part of my new configuration but I don't think I want it to be the center of everything anymore. From poking around, it looks like a wired Ubiquiti router coupled (maybe an Edgerouter Lite or Edgerouter PoE?) with a Ubiquiti wireless AP (I think UAP-AC-PRO) is the way to go. I was running Powerline equipment previously (since we rented a house) and it worked great but I think I can move away from that since I own the home and can change things up if I wanted to. Here are the basics about the house and about my usage: - 3 bedroom/3 living rooms (and one office that I guess can be an additional bedroom) and a little over 2000 sq. ft. - I can get someone to drop ethernet in the rooms from the attic if that'll be the best option for certain rooms - I have an Xbox One/PS4/Switch/gaming PC that will be used on at least a semi-regular basis - I have a spare computer that I want to turn into a media server (for Plex or something else entirely) - Various wireless devices (smartphones, Chromcasts, etc) - I'll be with Comcast again since they seem to offer the highest speeds in the area and I'd be on the 150 Mbps package - I want to start adding those smart home devices. I bought a Smartthings hub (with some sensors), an Ecobee v4, and a Ring Pro doorbell to get things going - I'm not entirely sure what else I want to add but I do want to be able to add things easily even if there is more to set up and spend on the front end I have some money saved up so I can spend some money if I need to but I guess I'm not entirely sure what I would need to do and what would just be superfluous. Would the router and access point be enough? I was thinking of adding a switch and using that with where ever my consoles/gaming PC are going to be hooked up so I can run ethernet there. I may add some security cameras and I've read that some are PoE and some are not, I've also started reading about SPF but I think that is well past my use case. Is that assumption correct? Where should my networking equipment go? Would it be best inside of the house? Is up in the attic or in the garage an option? I live in Memphis and the summers can get long and humid so I think the attic may not be the best option since I read that I may need to get a small USB fan or something over the router.
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Jan 9, 2018 00:47
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What is the best bet for a wireless adapter being used on a gigabit internet connection? I'm guessing USB is out but is it better to get something like a router or WiFi extender with ethernet port and connect using that or a PCIe card? I know I'm going to get nowhere near gigabit speeds over wireless, I just don't want to get a lemon.
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Jan 9, 2018 03:25
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I'd still get a separate switch. Not all of those ports on the ER series are able to be used as switchports, since they're designed to be routed interfaces. I don't know a lot about networking but my understanding is that routing has additional overhead beyond switching - so if the router can handle that overhead at full wire speed, why would knocking them down to switching ports (and eliminating the related overhead) hit performance? Genuinely interested, I'm not a networking guy so this just didn't make sense to me. But fair enough that I should maybe get a switch as well, it is just more money and complexity I'd prefer to avoid.
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Jan 9, 2018 04:17
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thiazi posted:I don't know a lot about networking but my understanding is that routing has additional overhead beyond switching - so if the router can handle that overhead at full wire speed, why would knocking them down to switching ports (and eliminating the related overhead) hit performance? Genuinely interested, I'm not a networking guy so this just didn't make sense to me. But fair enough that I should maybe get a switch as well, it is just more money and complexity I'd prefer to avoid. When measuring total throughput you count each packet direction as a separate transaction, so upload + download = total throughput. On "wire speed" gigabit that's 2gbps total. The ER-Lite is designed to handle up to 1 million packets per second, down to as little as 64-byte packets. That's effectively wire speed routing full duplex. Since each port is a discrete routed interface on the ER-Lite, if you want to treat two of the ports as a dumb switch then you have to use software to bridge them and the router has to route every packet that's transferred between the two ports. Every "software" feature that's not hardware accelerated will subtract from your total performance. On a switch, the hardware just stores the hardware addresses of each connected device and just immediately forwards the packet to the destination port without needing to read or process the packet. A wire-speed 5 port gigabit switch is capable of 10gbps total throughput. If you had two PCs and a file server, then a switched network could transfer 2gbps up/down between the server and PC while the other PC is downloading from the internet at whatever the router can handle. The edgerouter series breaks down like this:
There's a next gen platform that's slowly coming out based on more recent chips:
And frankly there's nothing stopping you from sticking a RJ45 SFP in the 1gigabit SFP slots to convert the fiber port to copper. Cisco's GLC-T is compatible in all the devices I've tested so far.
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Jan 9, 2018 07:08
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E-Diddy posted:I just bought a new house and I want to get all nerdy and dumb with my home networking. If you really want to "future proof" then you should get somebody to run 1" - 1-1/2" innerduct to single or double-gang low-voltage boxes at each "location" you think you'll want to put something. The tube usually comes with a pull-rope in it from the factory, but you can use a fish-tape to feed in a rope if you need to. Then when you decide how many jacks you need at each location, you can pull in those cables + a new tow rope using the old rope, and finish off the jacks yourself. That way you could potentially run fiber later if it gets commonplace enough in the home. Or even coaxial cable to put the cablemodem wherever you want. Run all the conduits to a single central location in your house, and leave room for you to mount an adequately sized switch for the total number of ports you decide to go with. I suggest counting 2-drops per location + 1 double gang ceiling box per wifi access point. 
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Jan 9, 2018 07:32
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CrazyLittle posted:When measuring total throughput you count each packet direction as a separate transaction, so upload + download = total throughput. On "wire speed" gigabit that's 2gbps total. The ER-Lite is designed to handle up to 1 million packets per second, down to as little as 64-byte packets. That's effectively wire speed routing full duplex. Since each port is a discrete routed interface on the ER-Lite, if you want to treat two of the ports as a dumb switch then you have to use software to bridge them and the router has to route every packet that's transferred between the two ports. Every "software" feature that's not hardware accelerated will subtract from your total performance. Excellent explanation, thanks! Sounds like I either need an ERX+switch or ER-POE to meet my needs.
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Jan 9, 2018 13:19
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CrazyLittle posted:And frankly there's nothing stopping you from sticking a RJ45 SFP in the 1gigabit SFP slots to convert the fiber port to copper. Cisco's GLC-T is compatible in all the devices I've tested so far. Don't pay extra for an official Cisco GLC-T though, there's really no reason for it on a home box, especially one that you won't be calling Cisco TAC on.
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Jan 9, 2018 15:43
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CrazyLittle posted:If you really want to "future proof" then you should get somebody to run 1" - 1-1/2" innerduct to single or double-gang low-voltage boxes at each "location" you think you'll want to put something. The tube usually comes with a pull-rope in it from the factory, but you can use a fish-tape to feed in a rope if you need to. Then when you decide how many jacks you need at each location, you can pull in those cables + a new tow rope using the old rope, and finish off the jacks yourself. That way you could potentially run fiber later if it gets commonplace enough in the home. Or even coaxial cable to put the cablemodem wherever you want. Run all the conduits to a single central location in your house, and leave room for you to mount an adequately sized switch for the total number of ports you decide to go with. I suggest counting 2-drops per location + 1 double gang ceiling box per wifi access point. Thank you! I found that exact kind and will suggest it to whoever I get to do all of this work. Can you clarify that last part a bit? I think you are saying that I should get double gang boxes in each room (the 2-drops part) but I should also get one in the ceiling for the Wi-Fi access point? Would you recommend doing that over powering it through PoE?
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Jan 9, 2018 17:15
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I'd still get a separate switch. Not all of those ports on the ER series are able to be used as switchports, since they're designed to be routed interfaces. This is not an issue on the ER-X series, everything is switched (not sure about the SFP Port though). They will run with 1 routed port and 4 switch ports happily with no performance penalty. The performance penalty mainly shows up when you try to: -Bridge multiple ports together on an ERL-3, ERPoE-5, or ER-8 (making multiple routes ports act like a switch). -Remove switched ports on the ERPoE-5 and split them off into a separate routed interfaces. The ER-X/ER-X-SFP are essentially a smart switch that can rout as many or as few ports as you’d like without an issue. The trade-off for the additional flexibility is that the ER-X line isn’t quite as powerful in terms of processing power, so the theoretical maximum routes throughput is lower. It can still reasonably handle near-gigabit speeds though (~900Mb/s).
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Jan 9, 2018 17:30
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Did anyone test this out yet? https://www.asus.com/AiMesh/
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Jan 9, 2018 17:52
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thiazi posted:Excellent explanation, thanks! Sounds like I either need an ERX+switch or ER-POE to meet my needs. First of all if this house is gonna be a long term living place, I would get them to drop cat5e or cat6 cables from the attic into every relevant room. I don't own a home so I have no idea what this costs, but everybody is going to tell you that you're better off hard wiring everything you possibly can. Then you could just keep all the networking stuff up in the attic out of sight and out of mind. Second, I would get a switch no matter what. Even this one for $20 should be good enough I think.
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Jan 9, 2018 18:44
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CAT5 is pretty cheap and easy to run yourself without killing yourself/burning your house down. While you're at it, maybe run coaxial to the same rooms?
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Jan 9, 2018 19:01
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Run cat6a. Not 5 and not 5e. Cat 6 if 6a is too expensive in your area.
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Jan 9, 2018 19:23
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E-Diddy posted:I think you are saying that I should get double gang boxes in each room (the 2-drops part) I typically recommend two network cables pulled to any location where you might put something. This gives you the option of using one cable for networking and one cable for POTS telephone (if you have one). You can also use one of the cables for PoE networking. If you pull conduit or innerduct with a tow rope then you'll have a direct path from your central wiring to the destination, and you can pull new cables or more cables later as you need them. The biggest cost is the labor of pulling within the house and walls, so getting two cables pulled instead of one shouldn't cost much extra. If you only get one cable pulled to each spot, then you'll have to buy a small dumb switch at each place where you need additional jacks. Having a network full of tiny switches is bad for a lot of reasons. Keystone jacks are just a standard shape for modular jacks that go into either interior wall plates (like a phone jack plate) or into structured rack panels. One RJ45 jack (ethernet or phone) takes up one keystone jack/slot. You can get keystone plates that fit up to 6 jacks to a single gang low voltage box/bracket and up to 12 in a double gang. This is useful for locations like behind your home theater receiver where you can run TV Coax, multiple network, and surround speaker jacks all to the same box or low-votage bracket. When I bought my house, I planned out two possible locations for my home theater and paid the wiring guy to pull just 2x cat5e to each spot. Then I went in after him and used the same paths to pull coaxial and speaker wires to where I thought I would need them. My biggest mistake was that I should have just paid him to put in conduit w/ rope so that I could pull whatever I wanted. My attic has blown-in brominated paper insulation. It REALLY loving sucks to crawl up there. If I had conduit then I would have just pulled on the tow rope instead of having to crawl in the attic to some slack cable up and around corners. E-Diddy posted:but I should also get one in the ceiling for the Wi-Fi access point? Would you recommend doing that over powering it through PoE? Ceiling mounts can be as simple as a 1/4" hole with a cat5e/cat6 hanging out, and then you just screw the AP's mounting bracket into the drywall. If you wanted to hedge against ever having to patch holes in the ceiling, then you're better off putting a proper ceiling electrical box wherever you want the AP to go, and then mount the AP to the box instead of screws-in-drywall. Also since you're putting a box or bracket (preferably box to prevent insulation from falling down) then you might as well pull a conduit up there so you can pull new/multiple cables into that location if a few years from now 60ghz WiFi (4gbps+) becomes cheap enough that you need to run fiber + power up to your ceiling. Lots of AP makers have brackets that will attach their APs to a single or double gang box. Here's the one for Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Pro/HD. The UAP-AC-Lite won't fit that bracket because it's physically smaller. I would just drill holes in the mounting plate for that one and screw it into the box that way... or just put screws in the ceiling boards. WiFi is 2.4ghz radio frequency, or 5.8ghz radio frequency. 2.4ghz is roughly the same band as your microwave oven, but WiFi is at such low power and spread out that you don't cook yourself. People are walking bags of water, and water absorbs 2.4ghz and 5.8ghz RF pretty darn good. This also means that if you put your AP on a table in the corner behind the TV then any people who are standing in the signal path will absorb some of that sweet sweet bandwidth. Putting the AP in the ceiling means that your devices will have a better chance at a direct line of sight to the AP with less stuff in the way.
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Jan 9, 2018 19:58
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Steakandchips posted:Run cat6a. Not 5 and not 5e. Cat 6 if 6a is too expensive in your area. Cat5e is perfectly fine for gigabit ethernet up to 326ft. The only reason to get Cat6/6a is for 10gig over copper and neither cabling, the hardware, nor the client devices are cheap enough for that to make sense. Cat6 is only rated 10gig up to 180ft anyways, so really it's a choice between Cat5e and Cat6a. Here's monoprice's pricing on bulk cable: 1000FT Cat5e Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Network Cable UTP, Solid, Riser Rated (CMR), 350MHz, 24AWG, Blue $53.99 1000FT Cat6 Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Network Cable UTP, Solid, Riser Rated (CMR), 500MHz, 23AWG, Blue $80.99 1000FT 23AWG Cat6a 650MHz UTP Solid, Riser-Rated (CMR) Bulk Pure Bare Copper Ethernet Cable, 10G, Black - No Logo $125.99 If 10gig is your goal you're better off pulling single mode fiber, which just got stupid-cheap and easy to install. $0.14/ft for single mode duplex zipcord, plus ~$3 per field-installable connector. After that you just need kevlar shears, fiber jacket stripper and a knock-off fiber cleaver.
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Jan 9, 2018 20:14
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CrazyLittle posted:Cat6 is only rated 10gig up to 180ft anyways, so really it's a choice between Cat5e and Cat6a. If your home is not large enough that any single run will exceed 180ft anyway, then CAT6 is a perfectly acceptable alternative to CAT6a if you plan to use 10GBase-T at some point. That said, conduit is the best answer for future-proofing.
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Jan 9, 2018 20:19
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SamDabbers posted:If your home is not large enough that any single run will exceed 180ft anyway, then CAT6 is a perfectly acceptable alternative to CAT6a if you plan to use 10GBase-T at some point. That said, conduit is the best answer for future-proofing. But at that rate, single mode fiber is rated for 100mbit/1000mbit/10gig/40gig/100gig
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Jan 9, 2018 21:00
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CrazyLittle posted:But at that rate, single mode fiber is rated for 100mbit/1000mbit/10gig/40gig/100gig My comment was in response to "it's a choice between Cat5e and Cat6a," which it clearly is not for every application. Twisted pair isn't going away any time soon. If your goal is to support NBase-T/10GBase-T over typical cable run lengths in a home, CAT6 is a valid option that's cheaper and easier to work with than CAT6a, and it provides an easy upgrade path that's backwards-compatible with current GigE standards. SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jan 9, 2018 |
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Jan 9, 2018 21:35
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Hold onto your butts, WPA3 was announced! https://www.wi-fi.org/news-events/newsroom/wi-fi-alliance-introduces-security-enhancements I'm sure all of those WPA2 devices that will never get updates will be gone in
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Jan 11, 2018 00:19
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I've configured my router (EdgeRouter Lite) to be a local DNS server, so now I can type in "https://router.mydomain.com" into my browser and get redirected to eg https://192.168.1.1 to manage the router. My AP is setup on 192.168.1.2 and the management page can be accessed on port 8443. I can browse to "https://ap.mydomain.com:8443" to access the management page, but I would much rather just go to "https://unifi.mydomain.com" and have it be an alias (not sure on the terminology) to 192.168.1.2:8443. How do I do this? I thought maybe Routes -> Static Routing would do it but it doesn't let me specify ports and looking at the other entries I think it's something totally different. e: I want to configure this on the router, so that it'll just work with any computer connected to my network.
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Jan 11, 2018 23:01
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Does anyone here know if an Edgerouter can be plugged directly into a Verizon FIOS ONT, or if I'm gonna have to make a bridge through their poo poo quantum router/gateway to get it set up? I've had enough of their gateway and I'm building out a Ubiquiti set up with an Edgerouter X SFP and 3 APs, and hoping to cram it in the basement next to the ONT and run the cables through the house. However, I've heard a whole bunch of conflicting reports about it and don't know if anyone here has tried hooking it up directly to the ONT or if it's even possible, or if their gateway does some sort of auth garbage I'm going to have to deal with.
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Jan 12, 2018 00:16
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Kaboobi posted:Does anyone here know if an Edgerouter can be plugged directly into a Verizon FIOS ONT, or if I'm gonna have to make a bridge through their poo poo quantum router/gateway to get it set up? I've had enough of their gateway and I'm building out a Ubiquiti set up with an Edgerouter X SFP and 3 APs, and hoping to cram it in the basement next to the ONT and run the cables through the house. However, I've heard a whole bunch of conflicting reports about it and don't know if anyone here has tried hooking it up directly to the ONT or if it's even possible, or if their gateway does some sort of auth garbage I'm going to have to deal with. I plugged my Mikrotik directly into my ONT at 3 different service locations and it worked fine. I'd imagine it should on the Edgerouter too. You're gonna have to call Verizon and have them switch service over to the Ethernet port though. And you won't get TV. Edit: I remember reading this article about it 4 years ago: https://www.groundedreason.com/use-router-fios-internet/ We used the provided VZ router as a moca adapter for one location. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jan 12, 2018 |
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Jan 12, 2018 00:26
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I plugged my Mikrotik directly into my ONT at 3 different service locations and it worked fine. I'd imagine it should on the Edgerouter too. You'll get TV you just don't get the TV Guide and other data related info, but really you should just buy an HDHomeRun and rent a cablecard instead
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Jan 12, 2018 02:17
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Boris Galerkin posted:I've configured my router (EdgeRouter Lite) to be a local DNS server, so now I can type in "https://router.mydomain.com" into my browser and get redirected to eg https://192.168.1.1 to manage the router. My AP is setup on 192.168.1.2 and the management page can be accessed on port 8443. I can browse to "https://ap.mydomain.com:8443" to access the management page, but I would much rather just go to "https://unifi.mydomain.com" and have it be an alias (not sure on the terminology) to 192.168.1.2:8443. One way would be a reverse proxy, but I doubt you could set that up on an ERL. Got a Linux box on your network you can install Apache on?
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Jan 12, 2018 03:04
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Boris Galerkin posted:I would much rather just go to "https://unifi.mydomain.com" and have it be an alias (not sure on the terminology) to 192.168.1.2:8443. DNS does not handle network ports or page/browser redirects. You need to setup the computer at 192.168.1.2 to either internally reverse proxy https port 443 to 8443, or else you need to set 192.168.1.2 to redirect browsers from https://192.168.1.2 -> https://192.168.1.2:8443 Of course the easier answer is to just change the default port on the UniFi controller to port 443: https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/204910084-UniFi-Change-default-ports-for-controller-and-UAPs CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Jan 12, 2018 |
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Jan 12, 2018 04:18
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Photex posted:You'll get TV you just don't get the TV Guide and other data related info, but really you should just buy an HDHomeRun and rent a cablecard instead We have the most basic of basic cable that we watch the occasional football game on and everything else we get via streaming and plex so it wouldn’t be an issue! I’m gonna try to stage up a system this week and call up Verizon to see if they can swap it to Ethernet, thanks for your your input!
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Jan 12, 2018 06:44
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CrazyLittle posted:DNS does not handle network ports or page/browser redirects. You need to setup the computer at 192.168.1.2 to either internally reverse proxy https port 443 to 8443, or else you need to set 192.168.1.2 to redirect browsers from https://192.168.1.2 -> https://192.168.1.2:8443 Why is anyone suggesting a reverse proxy? If you really didn't want to change the HTTPS port, which obviously isn't the problem, but rather that the dude has no idea about ports, you could just forward port 443 to 8443 internally.
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Jan 12, 2018 09:25
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