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wesleywillis posted:Whats a good dump in the tank combustion chamber cleaner? BG44K and BG244 are the ones that I use and they seem to get good reviews, as distinct from the usual snake oil. Anecdotal and family reviews also agree.
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Jan 8, 2018 12:47
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wesleywillis posted:Whats a good dump in the tank combustion chamber cleaner? Any idea when the spark plugs were last inspected or replaced?
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Jan 8, 2018 15:37
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So, stupid question. A friend has a flat tire and can't get the lugs off. I am going to go over there after work with my breaker bar and impact, but in the meantime he ordered some never-seez from Amazon. I wouldn't think it's a good idea to use that kind of stuff on lugs, am I wrong? If not, what's the best way to prevent the nuts from seizing in the future?
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Jan 8, 2018 17:17
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In my experience, they're probably not seized, just overtightened because the lube jockeys can't be bothered to whip out a torque wrench and just hammer them on with the impact on full power. Use a torque wrench to tighten them only up to spec and they should be fine. Also have your friend get a cross wrench if they don't already have one. Twice the handles = twice the torque, and since you're pushing one side and pulling the other, it's not trying to bend the stud, so unlike your usual factory tire wrench, all your effort is going toward loosening the actual nut.
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Jan 8, 2018 19:00
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wesleywillis posted:Whats a good dump in the tank combustion chamber cleaner? The bolded part is just going to make things worse. Higher octane fuel is actually harder to burn, and unless the car in question has some form of forced induction (turbo/supercharging) or higher than normal compression the car will run poorly on mid or premium grade. Basically, if it doesn't say "PREMIUM FUEL ONLY" on the fuel gauge and/or cap the car isn't designed for it. She needs to pump regular gas before running any kind of cleaner through the tank. Geoj fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jan 8, 2018 |
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Jan 8, 2018 19:12
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Enourmo posted:In my experience, they're probably not seized, just overtightened because the lube jockeys can't be bothered to whip out a torque wrench and just hammer them on with the impact on full power. Use a torque wrench to tighten them only up to spec and they should be fine. That's kind of what I thought, but they could still be seized. The wheels probably haven't been off in years and with the salt they put on the roads here, everything corrodes in short order. I don't know if I need to talk him out of using the anti-seize or if it won't make a difference.
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Jan 8, 2018 20:13
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Talk him out of it. Using anti seize throws off the torque readings when you use a torque wrench. It's fine to use a thin layer on the surface of the hub where the wheel mates with it (it'll keep the wheel from corroding to the hub, since you mentioned it's a salt area), but not on the threads.
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Jan 8, 2018 23:09
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Talk him out of it. Using anti seize throws off the torque readings when you use a torque wrench. 'Torque readings'? Do you mean the little lever that changes from 'FWD' to 'REV' on my rattlegun?
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Jan 8, 2018 23:41
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It lets you get in a few too many ugga duggas and snap the studs off a lot easier.
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Jan 9, 2018 07:54
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When you guys told me to get windshield washer fluid before driving up to Buffalo, I assumed it was because my existing fluid might freeze. Boy was I wrong. https://imgur.com/a/qoF66
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Jan 9, 2018 10:56
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That's so cute.   This happened in Texas (Frisco TX, a far northern suburb of Dallas)... 11 loving hours of doing pizza delivery on slush/ice.. what you can't tell is that's a good 2-3 inches of ice on the ground there, and all the roads were "cobblestone ice" (that poo poo SUCKS to drive on!) Or maybe I just knocked over a can of Red Bull and it grew wings, just on the wrong part. I was one out of 3 drivers  ).We don't get much winter weather. But when we do, it fucks us sideways, with no lube and an 18 inch steel spiked dildo. But yeah, the salt spray also sucks balls. My big checklist items before a road trip: tire pressure/tread, oil level, coolant, washer fluid (I would add transmission fluid to that list if I didn't have a manual, and power steering fluid if I had a car with it...). We don't use (much) salt here, but the road spray from a thawing road may as well be some James Bond poo poo by the time it hits your windshield. Remember the part when I suggested Armor All or vaseline on your door seals? It took me 15 minutes to get into my car the morning of that photo, because the doors were frozen shut via the seals. I wound up using a prybar to get the drivers door open that morning, and broke a bit of trim doing so.  (I replaced it, it came loose again, so it's been without that trim for a few years even though I still have a nearly new trim piece). Wound up ripping the seals up a little bit as well.e: to be honest I was more concerned about the fluid freezing too, but I always assume every road trip will involve a lot of washer fluid. My road trips tend to involve driving through a ton of nowhere (Texas is too loving big), so I wind up with bug splatter everywhere. My car holds exactly a gallon (as in when it stops pumping, I can buy a 1 gallon jug of washer fluid, and it's literally at the edge of the fill tube if I dump it all in). Those tanks are usually a pain to get to (generally buried behind the bumper), so having one crack from freezing is even more of a pain than having the fluid freeze. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Jan 9, 2018 |
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Jan 9, 2018 11:49
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Geoj posted:The bolded part is just going to make things worse. Higher octane fuel is actually harder to burn, and unless the car in question has some form of forced induction (turbo/supercharging) or higher than normal compression the car will run poorly on mid or premium grade. Basically, if it doesn't say "PREMIUM FUEL ONLY" on the fuel gauge and/or cap the car isn't designed for it. I know, Carbon deposits create hotspots that cause preignition. Higher (but not necessarily premium) octane fuel will help with that. But yeah, thats a bandaid solution at best. Close the wound, don't just keep mopping up the blood.
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Jan 9, 2018 12:44
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No, higher octane fuel protects against knock because it is less likely to autoignite due to compression. Preignition due to hot spots are an entirely beast and octane rating doesn't really help against it.
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Jan 9, 2018 14:14
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Higher-than required octane fuel can actually CAUSE carbon buildup, since the stuff is harder to ignite, at low-load/low-rpm, it’s not burning as cleanly as it should. People that pump premium “because it’s better” are fools at best.
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Jan 9, 2018 14:36
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Talk him out of it. Using anti seize throws off the torque readings when you use a torque wrench. I was able to get the lugnuts off with my breaker bar no problem. The bigger issue was that his tire was completely flat and unseated from the wheel, and his full size spare was also flat and had a big hole in it somewhere. So he is having it towed to a shop this morning. I at least properly torqued the nuts back on 
CornHolio fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Jan 9, 2018 |
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Jan 9, 2018 16:02
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totalnewbie posted:No, higher octane fuel protects against knock because it is less likely to autoignite due to compression. Preignition due to hot spots are an entirely beast and octane rating doesn't really help against it. I won't argue, since it still is along the lines of what I know/believe. That being said, please science me on the last sentence.
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Jan 9, 2018 23:45
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Well, first let's clarify that there are different types of abnormal ignition (when there IS ignition): These two are fairly well understood: Pre-ignition (due to hot spots) Knock (to varying degrees) The following usually-but-not-always refer to the same, not very well understood phenomenon: Low speed pre-ignition (LSPI) Megaknock Superknock Basically, in PI, the air/fuel mixture is ignited by a hot spot in the combustion chamber (spark plug, valve, whatever). This occurs prior to spark timing. This flame then expands throughout the combustion chamber. In knock, the air/fuel mixture is ignited by the spark plug, and the resulting combustion increases the pressure in the uncombusted parts of the cylinder. Due to the increase in pressure, this air/fuel mixture then auto-ignities (like diesel), and the resulting flame fronts meeting each other causes your knock. Hence, higher octane, which helps against auto-ignition due to compression, protects against knock but not necessarily against PI. Peak combustion pressures are higher for PI than knock, so it is much more dangerous for your engine. Once it begins, if you don't pull it back, you can easily destroy an engine, whereas your engine can tolerate some amount of knock, depending on severity and length. A key point for regular PI is that it tends to occur at high speeds, as components don't have time to cool. For LSPI/megaknock/superknock, the peak pressures are MUCH higher than standard PI and engines basically can't tolerate it at all. In addition, it occurs at LOW speeds, which is unexpected. The reasons for these phenomena are still poorly understood, though there's a lot of research about it (look up these terms at the SAE conference and you'll find lots of stuff). So far, it's been related to all sorts of things, like charging (which seems to be the biggest contributor) as well as oil blow-by, type of oil, fuel, etc. One of the fundamental challenges to doing this research is you end up replacing 1 or more pistons (or other engine components) every time you get a "positive" result, so it's not research for the faint of heart.
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Jan 10, 2018 00:19
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Awesome post. Stratified automotive (eco boost/VW/Mazda tuners) have some really good articles regarding LSPI and how the early mazdaspeed 3s were affected.
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Jan 10, 2018 00:54
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I've heard people say that they use high-octane fuel in their cars because it means the car can run leaner, thus using less fuel. Again, that sound ridiculous, but I don't know enough of the engineering behind it to tell them why they're wrong.
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Jan 10, 2018 01:01
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If their concern is saving money, they'd need to make up in fuel-economy the difference between regular and premium. Given that regular-premium is something like 10% price increase, ask if they're getting a 10% increase in fuel economy. I wrote up a bunch of stuff but in the end, it really depends on the car and fuel. But in short, if your car isn't designed to take advantage of higher octane fuel, you're not going to get the benefits from it. And definitely not enough to offset the cost of premium over regular.
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Jan 10, 2018 01:28
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I sometimes run it when it hits like 110f+ outside in an aircooled engine. Premium knocks about 10f off head temps. I dont think it would be a measurable difference in a water cooled engine. If its not really hot i dont even get that 10f difference for whatever reason engine temps need to go way over what a normal engine can handle for the difference to show up. It doesnt really matter under 240f lol.
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Jan 10, 2018 02:53
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totalnewbie posted:Well, first let's clarify that there are different types of abnormal ignition (when there IS ignition): There is real interesting research on inducing it with star patterns etched in the combustion chamber. You basically have full torque and hp at any rpm. Its a completely flat curve. It's really only been done to little motorcycle engines though and after a certain point it just shatters the heads. There is a motorcycle racer in india who used to do this by hand to cheat. He didnt even need gears anymore. Ive always wanted to try a mild grind on an old engine but its hard to not be lazy when im like 90% sure its gonna explode.
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Jan 10, 2018 03:04
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DogonCrook posted:There is real interesting research on inducing it with star patterns etched in the combustion chamber. No wonder people can't understand why this works. "Star patterns" is entirely the wrong terminology. 
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Jan 10, 2018 04:03
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I've got a stupid car dealership question. I'm trying to arrange a test drive of a model my local dealer isn't keeping any stock of, before they will even consider helping me out they want a purchase contract subject to test drive signed. This seems immensely lovely and shady to me, and like I could easily overlook something and be stuck on a purchase contract for a car I end up not being interested in. Is this pretty standard procedure, or should I be right to be a bit suspicious? This is in Australia for some reference. To make it worse for me/more reasonable for them I would have to travel about 1000km to get to a dealer actually keeping one in stock from what I can see. Car in question is a Fiat 595, but even trying to test drive a standard 500 is like pulling teeth.
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Jan 10, 2018 08:04
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I run premium (98 RON) because my car runs on LPG and it only starts on gasoline. So I figure the cleaning effects of the "premium" gasoline will help a bit to keep my injectiors from gunking up.
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Jan 10, 2018 08:10
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totalnewbie posted:. But in short, if your car isn't designed to take advantage of higher octane fuel, you're not going to get the benefits from it. And definitely not enough to offset the cost of premium over regular. Word, I always (or almost always) knew that, but your other post was quite informative as well. Does it sometimes have to do with carbon deposits also raising compression slightly? Or would you need like an eighth inch of carbon on the piston top to make a difference? Do regular fuels typically have the same detergents etc that used to only (apparently) come in premium fuel? Anecdotal story: Working a a garage just out of high school (summer of '98) car comes in and it was running like poo poo. Early 90s Buick with... 3.1 or maybe 3.3. Many things were tried to get it to run good. Last thing was to run about 6 cans of combustion chamber cleaner through the engine from a vacuum line directly in to the intake manifold, and thus through the engine in short order, obviously speeding up the process compared to running the same poo poo through six tanks of fuel. There was smoke like a motherfucker, but once it was all over, the car ran WAAAAYYY the gently caress better. The mechanic mentioned that "thats why, every so often you should run a tank of premium through the car". His reasoning was detergents and whatnot that clean up carbon etc. Though I didn't necessarily know it at the time, the higher octane, more resistant to ignition would the detergents make a difference? or would the "lesser burn" offset the effects of any detergents in the fuel? What says the goons on this subject? This is why I love AI.
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Jan 10, 2018 13:04
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spankmeister posted:I run premium (98 RON) because my car runs on LPG and it only starts on gasoline. So I figure the cleaning effects of the "premium" gasoline will help a bit to keep my injectiors from gunking up. When you say “starts”, does the petrol just get the engine turning and once it’s idling steady you flip it over to LPG or do you run it for a few minutes on petrol and turn on the LPG once it’s nice and warm?
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Jan 10, 2018 13:18
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Platystemon posted:When you say “starts”, does the petrol just get the engine turning and once it’s idling steady you flip it over to LPG or do you run it for a few minutes on petrol and turn on the LPG once it’s nice and warm? Mine switches over once the coolant temp reaches 22'C So, depending on the ambient temperature, that's usually within 3-5mins of a cold start.
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Jan 10, 2018 16:09
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Mahatma-Squid posted:I've got a stupid car dealership question. I'm trying to arrange a test drive of a model my local dealer isn't keeping any stock of, before they will even consider helping me out they want a purchase contract subject to test drive signed. This seems immensely lovely and shady to me, and like I could easily overlook something and be stuck on a purchase contract for a car I end up not being interested in. Is this pretty standard procedure, or should I be right to be a bit suspicious? This is in Australia for some reference. Consider what the cost to the dealership is to stock a car. They effectively have to purchase it from the manufacturer and put it on their books, so its not surprising they'd want to get you to agree to purchase it before ordering one.
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Jan 10, 2018 16:20
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wesleywillis posted:Word, I always (or almost always) knew that, but your other post was quite informative as well. Carbon deposits: the amount of carbon you might find in the combustion chamber should not be anywhere close to affecting the compression ratio. If there's that much carbon, something is already drastically wrong with your car. Also, you're much more likely to just misfire from fouled spark plugs before any effect from carbon deposits on the CR. What additives go into fuel is not something I'm familiar with, but probably all fuels should have similar additives (depending on who makes the fuel). For your anecdote, I imagine that carbon might have been in the intake itself, rather than the combustion chamber. But I'm an engineer, not a mechanic, so /shrug. But the only thing you need to clean up carbon is basically heat. Get your engine up to temperature and you shouldn't have any carbon buildup in the combustion chamber because carbon burns up at normal operating temperatures.
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Jan 10, 2018 16:21
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Platystemon posted:When you say “starts”, does the petrol just get the engine turning and once it’s idling steady you flip it over to LPG or do you run it for a few minutes on petrol and turn on the LPG once it’s nice and warm? It switches automatically once the coolant is warm enough to gasify the LPG. You can switch back and forth by hand as well, but the fuel system won't "click over" if the gasifier is not yet up to temp spankmeister fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jan 10, 2018 |
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Jan 10, 2018 16:47
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totalnewbie posted:Carbon deposits: the amount of carbon you might find in the combustion chamber should not be anywhere close to affecting the compression ratio. If there's that much carbon, something is already drastically wrong with your car. Also, you're much more likely to just misfire from fouled spark plugs before any effect from carbon deposits on the CR. Right, the problem with some of the earlier direct injection designs (VAG especially, doubly so for the 4.2 V8) is that there would be carbon buildup in the intake that would normally be cleaned by fuel flow in a port injected engine. The intake side would get totally carbon coked and would barely flow air.
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Jan 10, 2018 19:25
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What will I gently caress up, and how badly, if I leave a car untouched in my garden over winter (outside of the battery)? It gets to about -10/15C here. A great deal has popped up but I'm all out of storage space and won't be able to do anything with it until spring anyway.
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Jan 10, 2018 22:55
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I still can't figure out the idle problem with my 1988 F150 302. It starts up and idles great for 5 minutes or so at 1000 RPM, but after that 5 minutes, it starts dropping down to 800 or so and coming back up. Once I take it out driving though and I stop, it drops down 500 RPM, sometimes killing it. If it doesn't die, it will flutter 500-1000 RPM a few times, then return to 1000 RPM. I got no idea what's wrong. I hooked up a pressure gauge today and the fuel pressure is at the low side of the allowed range, but it's in there. At least it's in range while in my driveway. I replaced the fuel regulator anyway since its vacuum connector was bent and I also swapped out the IACV, but I have the same problem. I wish I could check the pressure while out on the road so I could catch it while it drops to 500 RPM, but that gauge is a rental and I don't want to have it hanging out of the hood while I'm out driving. Oh, and driving with the hood open. I even hooked up my code scanner too, no codes. So what's left to check?
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Jan 11, 2018 01:19
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kid sinister posted:I still can't figure out the idle problem with my 1988 F150 302. It starts up and idles great for 5 minutes or so at 1000 RPM, but after that 5 minutes, it starts dropping down to 800 or so and coming back up. Once I take it out driving though and I stop, it drops down 500 RPM, sometimes killing it. If it doesn't die, it will flutter 500-1000 RPM a few times, then return to 1000 RPM. I got no idea what's wrong. I hooked up a pressure gauge today and the fuel pressure is at the low side of the allowed range, but it's in there. At least it's in range while in my driveway. I replaced the fuel regulator anyway since its vacuum connector was bent and I also swapped out the IACV, but I have the same problem. I wish I could check the pressure while out on the road so I could catch it while it drops to 500 RPM, but that gauge is a rental and I don't want to have it hanging out of the hood while I'm out driving. Oh, and driving with the hood open. Yeah you need to check while driving unfortunately or just gamble and swap the pump. The symptoms sound like the pump might be overheating. E: doesnt this truck have two pumps? Does it do it on both? DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jan 11, 2018 |
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Jan 11, 2018 02:31
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Grakkus posted:What will I gently caress up, and how badly, if I leave a car untouched in my garden over winter (outside of the battery)? It gets to about -10/15C here. A great deal has popped up but I'm all out of storage space and won't be able to do anything with it until spring anyway. Make sure the antifreeze is still good (if in doubt, fully drain the cooling system and refill with the proper 50/50 mix, which should be good down to -34F - or fully drain it immediately, then refill it in the spring), and put some fuel stabilizer in the gas tank. kid sinister posted:I still can't figure out the idle problem with my 1988 F150 302. It starts up and idles great for 5 minutes or so at 1000 RPM, but after that 5 minutes, it starts dropping down to 800 or so and coming back up. Once I take it out driving though and I stop, it drops down 500 RPM, sometimes killing it. If it doesn't die, it will flutter 500-1000 RPM a few times, then return to 1000 RPM. I got no idea what's wrong. I hooked up a pressure gauge today and the fuel pressure is at the low side of the allowed range, but it's in there. At least it's in range while in my driveway. I replaced the fuel regulator anyway since its vacuum connector was bent and I also swapped out the IACV, but I have the same problem. I wish I could check the pressure while out on the road so I could catch it while it drops to 500 RPM, but that gauge is a rental and I don't want to have it hanging out of the hood while I'm out driving. Oh, and driving with the hood open. Did you try blipping the throttle with the gauge hooked up?
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Jan 11, 2018 02:33
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DogonCrook posted:Yeah you need to check while driving unfortunately or just gamble and swap the pump. The symptoms sound like the pump might be overheating. Dual tanks, a low pressure pump in either tank and a high pressure pump after the tank selector valve. Yes it does it on either tank. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Did you try blipping the throttle with the gauge hooked up? I
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Jan 11, 2018 03:40
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Have you tried putting it in neutral when its idling low to see if that helps? Like maybe the torque convertor is locking up (it probably didn't have a lock up convertor in 88?) or otherwise hosed?
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Jan 11, 2018 12:49
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Hey, is there a thread to talk ODB adapters and apps? I got a cheap bluetooth ODB adapter for Christmas and I'm enjoying it (Except mine's faulty so we're gonna get it replaced), but I'm wondering about apps and features and poo poo. Wanted to get into a discussion. What's the best thread for that? khy fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jan 11, 2018 |
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Jan 11, 2018 17:42
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Grakkus posted:What will I gently caress up, and how badly, if I leave a car untouched in my garden over winter (outside of the battery)? It gets to about -10/15C here. A great deal has popped up but I'm all out of storage space and won't be able to do anything with it until spring anyway. No chance you can get someone to give it a start every 4 weeks or so?
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Jan 11, 2018 20:58
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