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Define gaming chair? Those faux racing buckets? Or just something that's comfortable for long sessions? I love my IKEA Markus chair. Sit my rear end in it for hours at a time. If you're looking for the bucket seat design then there's always the Corsair T1 chair but last I checked their forums they were having quality issues with the casters in particular. There's also Thermaltake's model range here: http://www.ttesports.com/productlist.aspx?c=11
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Jan 13, 2018 07:51
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Bryter posted:I picked up a Noctua NH-L9i for an ITX plex server recently, and it's basically silent I looked at that one. It's a bit 'high end' for my little box, but I'm gonna get me one regardless. :-)
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Jan 13, 2018 08:27
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How much of a jump is a 1060 vs a 970? And are the AMD equivalents even worth looking at?
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Jan 13, 2018 08:32
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How much of a jump is a 1060 vs a 970? And are the AMD equivalents even worth looking at?
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Jan 13, 2018 08:32
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The 1060 wouldn't be a huge upgrade, you'd want to be looking at a 1070 probably but good luck finding one. Midrange and high-end cards are really tough to find right now or overpriced due to cryptocurrency mining.
MaxxBot fucked around with this message at 09:20 on Jan 13, 2018 |
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Jan 13, 2018 09:11
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Cool. Reason I ask is that a goon is willing to hook me up with a 970 for 200 and I’m wondering how much I’d be “losing” performance wise by not buying a more expensive, newer card. The 970 wrecks my 7850 either way. Speaking of which, why does HWinfo and GpuZ and my Radeon drivers only say “7800 series” rather than the specific card?
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Jan 13, 2018 09:25
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Didn't know where to ask but it's time for a new external drive, is WD still the goto? Probably 2TB.
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Jan 13, 2018 10:27
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Bob NewSCART posted:How much of a jump is a 1060 vs a 970? And are the AMD equivalents even worth looking at? The GTX 1060 6GB is about 10-20% faster. The RX 570 is a sidegrade that's only slightly faster than a GTX 970, and the RX 580 is about as fast as the 1060. All of them are way overpriced right now due to the cryptomining bubble, so I'd just take the GTX 970 for now and wait for new cards or saner prices.
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Jan 13, 2018 11:01
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Rx580 has TDP of around 180 W to gfx1060's 120 W. It means that most of 1060 designs will be noticeably quieter.
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Jan 13, 2018 12:48
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I'm looking to get a graphics card. At the moment I'm using the onboard graphics of an i5. I'm not planning on upgrading the rest of the computer until later in the year, if at all (I just put in an SSD for the OS, a new storage HDD, and new PSU.) The plan is to get a 1050ti seeing as I don't do a huge amount of gaming and I don't feel it worth going up to a 1060 3gb or 6gb for the price. What I'm wondering about is monitor connections on the graphics card. At the moment the motherboard has three connections, a VGA, DVI and HDMI connection but it can only output to two at a time. Most of the time I'm running my main 1080p 24inch monitor off the DVI connection and a 1280x1024 17inch monitor off the VGA, sometimes I switch from the VGA to the HDMI to watch TV on a 32inch 1080p TV. The TV only has HDMI connections (and scart,) the 17inch only has VGA, and the 24inch only has DVI, so I'm wondering about connections on the new graphics card. What connections I should be looking for on it, presuming I'll have to use some converters and if it's even possible? Add to that I might upgrade the 17inch monitor to a 24inch of some kind, possibly an IPS 24inch 1080p monitor, maybe even a 1440p monitor of some kind, make that my main monitor and get rid of the 17inch. That's a long time plan though, and not a focus. I';m not worried about amazing graphics, and mostly I do a lot of the typical low issue stuff like browsing and writing. The main reason to go for the IPS in the future would be for editing photographs.
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Jan 13, 2018 13:09
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Bob NewSCART posted:How much of a jump is a 1060 vs a 970? And are the AMD equivalents even worth looking at? The 1060 is pretty much a 980 with 6GB of frame buffer in terms of performance. The extra GDDR in and of itself makes it a touch more viable than a 970, simply because more games are using 4GB+ at Ultra settings. But the pricing on anything other than a 1050Ti (which are also going up in price as they're the only *sane* choice under $200 now) is absolutely insane at the moment because of buttcoins. =/
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Jan 13, 2018 13:22
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What would be the temp card to buy right now for a 1080 gaming build? A used 970?
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Jan 13, 2018 14:07
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Good Will Hrunting posted:Dell's new Inspiron 5680 gaming mid-tower looks... pretty nice and affordable actually? 8700/256 SSD/1070/16gb ram for $1300? What's the deal, do they use dogshit parts? I'm not super sold on upgrading my GPU versus doing an entire new build. Can anyone weigh in on if this is a good deal, especially with ram and video card process right now? This is right around my budget for a new build. Are there any other prebuilts that are beating individual components right now?
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Jan 13, 2018 14:14
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Jihad Me At Hello posted:Can anyone weigh in on if this is a good deal, especially with ram and video card process right now? This is right around my budget for a new build. Are there any other prebuilts that are beating individual components right now? You couldn't build that configuration at present for that price, just based on the GPU and RAM alone. Also, the PSU on this is obviously decent enough to drive a 1070, and going by literature I've seen, has overhead for "up to a 225W GPU" now. If you've got a Micro Center nearby, this is available (albeit for ~$200 more): http://www.microcenter.com/product/488810/G429_Desktop_Computer They also have a model for the same price that comes with a 480GB SSD and a 1070Ti, but it's a lesser quality motherboard. The "G429" has a lot more creature comforts for the downgrade, even if I think OEMs offering ~250GB boot drives is getting progressively more ridiculous. And no, Dell doesn't use "dogshit" parts - but I wouldn't expect a great overclock out of that 1070. They use the "bog-standardest" of bog standard OEM parts. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Jan 13, 2018 |
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Jan 13, 2018 14:38
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Mrenda posted:I'm looking to get a graphics card. At the moment I'm using the onboard graphics of an i5. I'm not planning on upgrading the rest of the computer until later in the year, if at all (I just put in an SSD for the OS, a new storage HDD, and new PSU.) The plan is to get a 1050ti seeing as I don't do a huge amount of gaming and I don't feel it worth going up to a 1060 3gb or 6gb for the price. What I'm wondering about is monitor connections on the graphics card. Pretty much any 1050ti would be fine, they all have DisplayPort, HDMI, and DVI-D as a minimum. In your case, I’d go HDMI-HDMI for the TV, a DVI to DisplayPort adapter for the DVI monitor, and DVI-D to VGA active adapter for the VGA monitor. The VGA monitor is the real wrench in the works here; it’s just old now. Nothing on a 1050ti is going to do an analog signal normally, so you have to convert something. It’s just the easiest to do a VGA signal from DVI.
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Jan 13, 2018 16:31
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Arivia posted:Pretty much any 1050ti would be fine, they all have DisplayPort, HDMI, and DVI-D as a minimum. Thanks, that sorts that out perfectly for me. I think the 17inch monitor is about sixteen years old now. It's done me great as a chat window/reference document monitor and is still going strong.
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Jan 13, 2018 17:22
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Yes. Ideally, you'd find a 2x8 set of DDR3-1600. But if you find 2x4 DDR3-1600 and 2x4 DDR3-1333, the sticks are going to run at 1333Mhz, with the timings of the 1333Mhz sticks. I'm unsure if you'd get the benefits of dual-channel, but matched sets are very important to that, so my guess is you'd run in single-channel mode. I am also pretty sure that you will not be able to use xmp with both properly if they are specced out differently.
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Jan 13, 2018 17:27
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Hey guys. I have a PC that I'm happy with except I want a smaller physical footprint. What's the smallest ATX case that can still fit a 1080? Currently using a Corsair Carbide 400C which is a great case but I want something smaller. I'm open to replacing my mobo/PS if it means I can go way smaller. This is what I've got, with a Corsair closed loop cooling kit: Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.00GHz 16.0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 1200MHz (16-18-18-36) MSI Z170A SLI PLUS (MS-7998) (U3E1) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 (EVGA) SanDisk Ultra II 960GB (SSD) Samsung SSD 950 PRO 512GB (m2 SSD) ephori fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Jan 13, 2018 |
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Jan 13, 2018 18:37
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The 400C is already on the smaller end for mainstream ATX cases. To go smaller you'll have to go a bit more niche with something like the Cerberus X: http://www.sliger.com/products/cases/kic10x/ ITX with an SFX PSU is the way to go for actual small footprints though, eg with an NCase M1: https://www.sfflab.com/products/ncase_m1
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Jan 13, 2018 18:45
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Yeah, that was kinda what I suspected. I really like that NCase. I'm guessing the H100i cooling kit won't fit in there either and I'll need an SFX-friendly cooler?
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Jan 13, 2018 18:58
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According to this the H100i fits, though it might be tight: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Xhd3QG2uIVBgQ7vHgpP_Bd_MNcrfxr8KJW2sY6g33so/edit#gid=10 There's also the (not yet released) Ghost S1 which has a compartment specifically for radiators: http://louqe.com/ Llamadeus fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Jan 13, 2018 |
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Jan 13, 2018 19:32
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BIG HEADLINE posted:You couldn't build that configuration at present for that price, just based on the GPU and RAM alone. Also, the PSU on this is obviously decent enough to drive a 1070, and going by literature I've seen, has overhead for "up to a 225W GPU" now. Can't bring myself to pull the trigger. I don't wanna lose the feeling of building myself getting to pick my own parts, plus gently caress an i7 anyway. I'll probably building something like this build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WCHsbj My current plan is to buy everything I can in February at MicroCenter's PC builder month sale (10% off I believe for buying cpu, mobo, and ram) then get the GPU whenever Nvidia releases their new GPUs or whenever I can get a solid deal on a 1080.
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Jan 13, 2018 19:57
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No comments on my build after 20+ posts? I missed a stock alert for a 1080 Ti at 4AM sadly.
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Jan 13, 2018 21:13
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EconOutlines posted:No comments on my build after 20+ posts? I missed a stock alert for a 1080 Ti at 4AM sadly. If you're spending that much already you might as well look into a 2x16GB DDR4 kit to leave yourself open to more down the line. Also, I'd honestly trust one of the newer Corsair CLC systems in the same form factor to something Thermaltake rebadged.
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Jan 13, 2018 21:27
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I've been looking into building a new system for a few months, at first waiting for the new Intel line to drop, but man, those graphics card prices are miserable. I'm currently using an ~8 year old system with an i5 750 and a Radeon HD 5850. My plan was to get an 8700K + 1060 but there's no way I'm dropping $400+ on the 1060. Right now I'm not playing anything bleeding edge, mostly some League of Legends and Path of Exile, so I'm thinking of just biting the bullet and getting a 1050 - it's going to be way better than my 5850 anyway. I still plan to get the 8700K and at least 16 GB of RAM since I can make good use of it for my work stuff (data processing and computationally intensive particle transport modeling). Is this a good idea? 2 or 4 GB on the 1050? It's pretty much the case that any upgrade is going to feel enormous at this point, right?
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Jan 13, 2018 22:51
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Upgrade will be enormous yeah. I'd advise against 2GB GPU if you can help it.
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Jan 13, 2018 23:03
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You can still snag 1060s for around $250 on newegg if you keep an eye out, they restock during the night around when they send their newsletter. Theres also nowinstock.net, and evga.com. Last night I had a 1070 Ti in my Amazon cart for $449, too bad I don't need that card right now. And a 1080Ti Black Mega Goku edition for $779.
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Jan 14, 2018 07:36
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ephori posted:Hey guys. I have a PC that I'm happy with except I want a smaller physical footprint. What's the smallest ATX case that can still fit a 1080? Currently using a Corsair Carbide 400C which is a great case but I want something smaller. I'm open to replacing my mobo/PS if it means I can go way smaller. This is what I've got, with a Corsair closed loop cooling kit: I have a Raijintek Thetis which fits full ATX motherboards while being the size of mITX cases like the Nano S or Evolv ITX 
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Jan 14, 2018 13:35
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I was kind-of going to write a build log but then I figured it's just a generic computer build log since I haven't done any fancy water cooling or even decent cable management. So, what I ended up with was:  The build took a week longer than anticipated since G.skill sent me a broken RAM kit and I had to wait for a replacement kit to arrive from Amazon. The build works like a charm, is fairly quiet and fairly cool - albeit I haven't monitored the temps in Prime95 or Furmark or something similar. The weird front fan placement on the cooler is because my ram modules are too tall to hang it otherwise, so I ended up leaving a few mm of gap between that cooler and RAM, and letting the fan cable go between the ram sticks into the back, to the fan controller build into R6. At least one thing that I managed to gently caress up is this:  I have no loving idea if that metal pin in front of Ethernet port is from the motherboard or the I/O shield, but the second Ethernet port is a gigabit one so I don't think I care enough to now reassemble the entire computer just to fix it. loving I/O shield, I spent like a good hour cursing at it and loving up one edge or another until I got it seated properly. One question I have is if its normal for computer to sound like a turbine the moment it boots up. All fans seem to spend a few seconds spinning on top speed. cinci zoo sniper fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Jan 14, 2018 |
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Jan 14, 2018 15:00
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Yes that’s normal, before the fan control stuff in the BIOS is up and running you just have full voltage and 100% PWM duty cycle on all fan headers on most motherboards.
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Jan 14, 2018 15:37
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My buddy wants a new computer and is on a budget of $500. His current pc is like 8 years old. I'm having a hard time putting anything together under 900 because I don't know what corners to cut. I'm thinking the Dell outlet i5 7th gen plus a 1050 such as in the op would be his best bet. Any ideas on builds that will offer any gaming on something 500?
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Jan 14, 2018 15:59
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So from what I can tell, the market for pc parts is just bananas these days in terms of pricing, so I'm wondering if it is just better to get a prebuilt if I want to get a new computer this year? Is there a particular place or places I could go to for this?
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Jan 14, 2018 16:13
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University surplus shop PC with a 3rd generation i5 or i7 for $50 (these are usually Dell or HPs with proprietary power supply connectors and will only work with video cards that don't require extra power from the power supply, and they usually come with tiny amounts of RAM and no hard drive), 850 Evo SSD, 1TB hard drive, 8GB RAM, and a 1050ti should come in between $400-500 and be perfectly adequate for playing anything on medium to high settings. This is basically what my 12 year old daughter has. We even tried my oculus rift on it and it was perfectly adaquate for playing most VR games.
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Jan 14, 2018 16:16
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Know any good sites to search?
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Jan 14, 2018 16:38
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thechosenone posted:Know any good sites to search? For University surplus shops? I've only used one, it's local, the University of Utah in Salt Lake City, but any city with a university should have one. Google for the name of a nearby university +surplus. Sometimes they have primitive online listings and the way they work is they will make everything available to staff and students first and then if it goes unsold for a couple weeks it will be made available to the general public. At the U of U one that's never been a problem. There's always 40 or 50 systems available and usually half of them have had their "staff and students" window expire. Check for universities that have associated hospitals. The PCs they get are usually high end and they do upgrades fairly often so there's always a flow of these to the surplus shop.
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Jan 14, 2018 16:46
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Looking to help a friend build his first gaming pc - asking here since I used the resources in this thread a couple years back for my first build and it helped me SO MUCH. Right now I'm trying to see if there's any way to get this into his budget range (to shave off $200-300 basically), any advice would be appreciated, I know I must be missing some obvious things. What country are you in? Canada What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Gaming What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. $600-800 CAD just for the computer itself If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? 1080p, hopefully high-ultra if possible PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Amazon Canada) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.50 @ Vuugo) Motherboard: Asus - STRIX H270F GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($168.75 @ Vuugo) Memory: Crucial - 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($104.99 @ PC-Canada) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.95 @ Vuugo) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card ($254.99 @ Memory Express) Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($115.99 @ PC-Canada) Power Supply: Corsair - CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($81.99 @ PC-Canada) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($116.95 @ Vuugo) Total: $1163.10 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-01-14 16:42 EST-0500 bideojames fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Jan 14, 2018 |
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Jan 14, 2018 22:30
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What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Gaming What's your budget? Not hard set, just looking for a solid build per dollar to replace my ancient (9 years come April) rig If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Currently using a hand-me-down (free) 1680x1050 paired with my old 1440x900 from my original desktop (the one that I'm finally upgrading from... with many still original parts) as a 2nd monitor... probably will look to upgrade to 144Hz 1080p or 1440p at some point, but not necessarily post-haste--least I hear fantastic things about them from a variety of sources, but still have my reservations Already picked up a new GPU because I noticed my 5 year old HD 7950 fans were in rough shape: they have two speeds now, on and off. Which meant, due to fan profile, it was idling at 80C since they were off till then--not sure how long it was like that, but managed to find a "reasonably" priced 1080 (relative to prices now) and jumped on it and slotted it into my ancient rig for the time being. More GPU than I wanted/needed, but I'm hoping with a bit of mining to get it down to a more reasonable level (figure if I can recoup a good chunk then it'll be a better card than I wanted at the price I wanted *crosses fingers*). Also snagged RAM that seemed like a good deal given the current RAM price situation and PSU at good price (10 year warranty, little cheaper than the 550W model after sale + promo + rebate). Still could technically return the RAM/PSU unopened (won't receive till sometime this week) if a misstep was made with either. Based on my previous ancient rig, must haves:
Beyond that: I read back some pages and it sounded like the i5 8600K was the recommended way to go rather than mucking about with 7th gen. I have a Micro Center nearby so the question is what mobo to bundle with (tentatively went with middle of the road with rebate; I hadn't planned on OCing, but wouldn't be opposed to a modest one if the temperatures and noise were in check). I was thinking something on the more reasonable price range for CPU cooler (Hyper 212 EVO, Cryorig H7, etc.) more focused on being quiet than supporting OCing, wasn't sure if there was any good recommendations/deals floating around outside the two "standard" options I noted. When I looked into upgrading some time ago that never panned out, I liked the look/sound of the Nanoxia's so I dropped one of their cases in there; not sure if there's better options around a similar price point (including suitably quiet fans if it's a case that doesn't include them) these days; definitely prefer a low-key, functional case. I was planning on bringing over my 500GB 840 EVO, debating snagging a 1TB Caviar Blue now, in the next couple months during a sale (think I saw it low $40's on Amazon at some point--sitting in cart just in case), or running my ancient Green until it actually kicks the bucket and acting then. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor ($379.98) (Micro Center Bundle) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.90 @ Newegg Marketplace) (Hyper 212 EVO? Something else good around price point?) Motherboard: Asus - Prime Z370-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($0.00) (Micro Center Bundle) Memory: Team - Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $170.00) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Video Card (Purchased For $565.00) Case: Nanoxia - Deep Silence 3 ATX Mid Tower Case ($90.00) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $75.00) Total: $1309.88 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-01-14 15:13 EST-0500 Thank you for advice/recommendations on CPU/mobo bundle, CPU Cooler, and Case or any other thoughts for improvement. bUm fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jan 14, 2018 |
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Jan 14, 2018 23:29
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2009--a different time), and 2 SSDs (laying about) in there and the entire front of the case is packed with useless air flow blocking drive bays (that also makes full size GPUs a very tight fit).
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Shakesbeard posted:Looking to help a friend build his first gaming pc - asking here since I used the resources in this thread a couple years back for my first build and it helped me SO MUCH. Right now I'm trying to see if there's any way to get this into his budget range (to shave off $200-300 basically), any advice would be appreciated, I know I must be missing some obvious things. First, don't get the 7th gen i5 - I know the OP says to do it, but it's out of date. The 8th gen is the exact same price but has 50% more actual CPU (6-core vs 4-core). Still, with that kind of budget you have to cut some corners. The very nice $115 case is one such corner, and the aftermarket cooler to replace the stock one is another, but even then an i5 build is gonna land at $900 Canadian ish without Windows - you can get a grey market Windows 7 key that will work for installing Windows 10 for something like $25 off of a guy in SA-mart. Assuming you do get Windows that way (it does work and it's not really that shady), you get this for $925: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor ($229.99 @ PC-Canada) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($165.50 @ Vuugo) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($105.99 @ PC-Canada) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.95 @ Vuugo) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Windforce OC Video Card ($239.99 @ Memory Express) Case: Cougar - MG110 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg Canada) Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($56.99 @ PC-Canada) Total: $898.40 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-01-14 19:05 EST-0500 This is going to suffer from its lack of an SSD, though. You can save another $70 by stepping down to an i3-8100 but you're still not gonna get under $800. You might want to look at prebuilt or used alternatives, at least for some components.
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Jan 15, 2018 01:09
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bUm posted:Beyond that: I read back some pages and it sounded like the i5 8600K was the recommended way to go rather than mucking about with 7th gen. I have a Micro Center nearby so the question is what mobo to bundle with (tentatively went with middle of the road with rebate; I hadn't planned on OCing, but wouldn't be opposed to a modest one if the temperatures and noise were in check). I was thinking something on the more reasonable price range for CPU cooler (Hyper 212 EVO, Cryorig H7, etc.) more focused on being quiet than supporting OCing, wasn't sure if there was any good recommendations/deals floating around outside the two "standard" options I noted. When I looked into upgrading some time ago that never panned out, I liked the look/sound of the Nanoxia's so I dropped one of their cases in there; not sure if there's better options around a similar price point (including suitably quiet fans if it's a case that doesn't include them) these days; definitely prefer a low-key, functional case. The i5-8600K is quite overpriced even if you're intending to overclock it (it's $150 more than the i5-8400 for maybe 5-10% better performance at its stock clocks), so if you're not sure if you want to overclock, I'd strongly consider getting the i5-8400 instead. Even on an 8400, you can easily get the stock turbo clock on all cores at the same time with a Z370 motherboard (it's usually a BIOS option called "multi-core enhancement"). If you want it to be quiet and stock turbo is good enough for you, either the Cryorig H7 or Coolermaster 212 Evo are both better than the stock cooler. For stock turbo any Z370 motherboard is fine; the one you have is a decent mid-tier board that'll take you about as far as a single tower air cooler can go, if you do end up getting an unlocked CPU. If you want your computer to be quiet though, you definitely want 5400rpm HDD's and you want as few of them as possible. I upgraded my rig recently and found that my pair of 2011 vintage 7200rpm Hitachi drives were louder than the fans at idle, even when they were just spinning and not seeking, and it was a more obnoxious kind of noise too. They needed replacing anyway so I actually ended up getting a NAS instead just to get spinning drives out of the computer completely. As far as cases go: I have no experience with Nanoxia cases, but Fractal Design is generally the go-to option for cases that are quiet but don't sacrifice airflow completely (doing so is counterproductive anyway because you'll end up having to increase fan speed to keep cool, raising the noise level anyway). The Define C or Define R6 should both be good. I have a BeQuiet Dark Base 700, which is indeed very quiet, but it's also quite overpriced at MSRP and it does breathe a bit worse than I'd hoped. The other part of getting a quiet computer is buying decent case fans with a large PWM control range - the Corsair ML series is a good choice here. Two big fans (140mm if you can fit them) lazily spinning at a few hundred rpm are almost inaudible with a decent case and will provide enough airflow for light tasks. Tweak your fan curves in the BIOS for best effects.
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Jan 15, 2018 01:48
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I remember someone here doing a write-up comparing graphics cards for gaming in terms of efficiency and current market price. Anyone happen to have a link to that handy?
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Jan 15, 2018 02:29
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