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Thanks Ants posted:I'm confused by this - if you have a device that connects to a Wi-Fi network and rebroadcasts it then that will still work if you change your APs to Unifi models. The distance is the main issue. It's 70 to 80 meters between the two devices through an interior wall, an exterior wall, possibly an oak tree, and then another exterior wall. I bought one of those $200 something 5 antenna Asus consumer routers to try to hit the whole house and also reach the guest house so it could get some semblance of internet. It gets like 30-40 mbps to the wireless repeater (so 15-20 because half duplex) which is good enough for the guest house. I'm just afraid the UAP won't broadcast far enough unless I buy a stronger one but then I get the other issue with the asus router. Some weaker devices can't talk back to it, mainly a smart tv and chromecast due to that distance. The house is L shaped and the drop for the modem is on one side while that TV is on the exact other side and a straight line from the router to the tv has you going through two to three sets of walls. edit: Also a wired repeater could be setup in the front half of the house except that led to "I don't want something that intense on my desk and also I still want my laptop to be using wired internet" from a different person in the house. So. Yeah. Like what I should do is get the edgerouter, maybe get a network switch since I probably need 6 ports from edgerouter to places, and put up one or two UAPs and for port 6 have it be a low powered nanostation through some walls or run cable in conduit. There's that whole "yard where it would be run is underwater when it rains" thing but whatever MagusDraco fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jan 17, 2018 |
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Jan 17, 2018 21:59
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Rexxed posted:OP was updated 8 days ago. You should be good. None of us can answer questions about your amazon delivery speed, only amazon can. I went through checking all the links and the updates made by mods look good. The picture of the ERLite-3 looks like an earlier generation but I couldn't find a better amazon link. I'll do updates where I can but I tend to be really busy these days.
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Jan 19, 2018 22:29
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CrazyLittle posted:I typically recommend two network cables pulled to any location where you might put something. This gives you the option of using one cable for networking and one cable for POTS telephone (if you have one). You can also use one of the cables for PoE networking. If you pull conduit or innerduct with a tow rope then you'll have a direct path from your central wiring to the destination, and you can pull new cables or more cables later as you need them. The biggest cost is the labor of pulling within the house and walls, so getting two cables pulled instead of one shouldn't cost much extra. If you only get one cable pulled to each spot, then you'll have to buy a small dumb switch at each place where you need additional jacks. Having a network full of tiny switches is bad for a lot of reasons. Hey again! I have done a ton more research and I think I have what I want now. I have an office and a media room that I would want to have a 6 keystone jack, a living room with a 4 keystone jack, and two other rooms with a 2 keystone jack. That leaves me at 22 ports + 1 going to the router is 23 of the 24 ports on the switch. I'm leaving one open in case I get a security camera system with an NVR and it can just go in that. I'm trying to decide between these two switches: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0XP-000A-000S4 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0XP-000A-000B1 The Edgeswitch is fanless which is cool since it'll save on power but the Unifi one uses the Unifi software (although I am not sure how much I need that). I've already purchased an Edgerouter X (the 5 port one) and a Unifi AP Pro for the center of the house. The Unifi switch is $170 compared to $200 for the Edgeswitch. What would you recommend? CrazyLittle posted:Ceiling mounts can be as simple as a 1/4" hole with a cat5e/cat6 hanging out, and then you just screw the AP's mounting bracket into the drywall. If you wanted to hedge against ever having to patch holes in the ceiling, then you're better off putting a proper ceiling electrical box wherever you want the AP to go, and then mount the AP to the box instead of screws-in-drywall. Also since you're putting a box or bracket (preferably box to prevent insulation from falling down) then you might as well pull a conduit up there so you can pull new/multiple cables into that location if a few years from now 60ghz WiFi (4gbps+) becomes cheap enough that you need to run fiber + power up to your ceiling. I bought one of the Ubiquiti mounting things and it is on its way to my house. One thing I was wondering, though, was about powering the AP Pro. I can't do PoE from the Edgerouter since it's 24v vs. 48v needed to power it. If I wanted to do PoE, could I just buy a 48v injector to power the AP? I wouldn't need to spend money on a PoE switch, would I? Thanks again!
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Jan 19, 2018 23:09
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E-Diddy posted:I bought one of the Ubiquiti mounting things and it is on its way to my house. One thing I was wondering, though, was about powering the AP Pro. I can't do PoE from the Edgerouter since it's 24v vs. 48v needed to power it. If I wanted to do PoE, could I just buy a 48v injector to power the AP? Anyway, wife approved faceplates and jacks and plates came in! No 2 brands are the same but they all match well enough, so I think we're good to go.   The cable matters jacks came with this nice little tool for holding the jack when punching down.      
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Jan 19, 2018 23:24
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ER-X is on a good sale at Newegg right now for anyone looking. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...0W-00080&cm_sp= 39.99 with free shipping with code EMCXEEY35
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Jan 20, 2018 00:57
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I could really use a hand with my terrible home network. I just moved, and have been fighting terrible wifi in the new house. I have some knowledge, but it's out of date. In previous houses I owned my own cable modem, put the router and modem at one corner of the house, and a 2nd WAP connected by ethernet lines in the house at the other corner of the house on non-overlapping bands, and everything worked pretty well. I've got about wireless 15 client devices total, mostly non-Apple. Short story: AT&T technician tells me that my current networking issues are caused by me changing the SSID / password, and that I should run both 2.4 and 5ghz networks as the same SSID and not change the default password. Is this accurate? If not, why the hell are they telling this to customers! I'm going to try following his advice even though I don't understand it and think it's dumb, because I'm at my wit's end and stuck in a contract with them anyway. Long story: I moved somewhere without cable available, and have AT&T UVerse Fiber as about my only option. They gave me a Pace 5268ac router, which functions as both modem and router, and after a ton of reading online I've concluded that I cannot bypass this thing, also it's not capable of gigabit routing. Rather than put the Archer C7 that I used previously as a router, or Netgear R6250 I was using as a WAP behind it, I decided just to try and use what AT&T gave me. I configured it like I had previous WAPs: 2.4 and 5ghz networks on different SSIDs, 2.4 pinned to channel 1 or 11, whichever was less crowded when I scanned, 2.4ghz set to 20mhz bandwidth, 5ghz set to 40mhz bandwidth. My experience has been horrible. This house isn't wired with cat5, so I've got stuff wireless now that was perviously wired (TV, XBone, etc). 2.4GHz is too crowded to use in the area, and the 5ghz range is awful. Connections get dropped, pings are high, and it's just generally flaky to use. I even bought an AV2000 powerline kit and put the Archer C7 running in WAP mode at the other end of the house.... but the AV2000 kit could only sustain ~40mbps, so best case on wifi from the 2nd WAP was 20-30mbps, usually it was lower. I had a full-day outage yesterday where any devices connecting to the wifi would get redirected to a "gateway authentication failure" that told me to call AT&T, so I did, and their diagnostic results caused them to send a tech out, who factory reset the router and told me that my outage and awful experience was due to changing the SSID and password, and I shouldn't do that. My current status after the reset is that things in the same room as the router see insane speeds (over 300mbit), probably due to the 80mhz default channel bandwidth. Everything more than 6 feet from the router is getting band-steered to 2.4ghz, and speedtests under 5mbps, as in the attached picture. Any suggestions? Do I just need to wait out my year with AT&T, and then hope that Google Fiber or Comcast comes to the area and I have the option to pay for 200/20 that works instead of 1000/1000 that doesn't? Edit: I'm also curious if current best practice is still to have separate SSIDs for 2.4 and 5, and run the smaller channel bandwidths to avoid interference. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Jan 21, 2018 |
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Jan 21, 2018 00:40
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Even if you can't bypass using AT&T's router, you should be able to turn off the built-in wireless and hook up your old router and put it in AP mode to see if signal and speed improve. If it can't route at gigabit even on wired, I'd complain until AT&T gave you new equipment though.
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Jan 21, 2018 05:01
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E-Diddy posted:That leaves me at 22 ports + 1 going to the router is 23 of the 24 ports on the switch. I'm leaving one open in case I get a security camera system with an NVR and it can just go in that. E-Diddy posted:I'm trying to decide between these two switches: E-Diddy posted:I can't do PoE from the Edgerouter since it's 24v vs. 48v needed to power it. If I wanted to do PoE, could I just buy a 48v injector to power the AP? I wouldn't need to spend money on a PoE switch, would I? Twerk from Home posted:AT&T technician tells me that my current networking issues are caused by me changing the SSID / password, Twerk from Home posted:and that I should run both 2.4 and 5ghz networks as the same SSID Twerk from Home posted:and not change the default password. Is this accurate? Twerk from Home posted:If not, why the hell are they telling this to customers! Twerk from Home posted:AT&T UVerse Fiber ... They gave me a Pace 5268ac router, ... it's not capable of gigabit routing. Twerk from Home posted:their diagnostic results caused them to send a tech out, who factory reset the router and told me that my outage and awful experience was due to changing the SSID and password, and I shouldn't do that. Twerk from Home posted:My current status after the reset is that things in the same room as the router see insane speeds (over 300mbit), probably due to the 80mhz default channel bandwidth. Everything more than 6 feet from the router is getting band-steered to 2.4ghz, and speedtests under 5mbps, CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Jan 21, 2018 |
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Jan 21, 2018 07:45
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that at&t tech comes from a place where you take calls all day from grandmas and grandpas who can't remember their wifi password and then the techs have to walk them through connecting a smart tv to it.
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Jan 21, 2018 08:06
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Yeah they are telling their customers not to change anything because that way it's easier for some random phone support guy to say "ok, to connect to wifi just look on the sticker on the back of your router that says "SSID: ATT_YOUR_ACCOUNT_NUMBER and connect to that with the password printed under it." "Oh you don't see it? Ok just unplug the router and plug it back in, with the "reset" button pressed and wait a few minutes for it to restart. That wifi network should now show up again."
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Jan 21, 2018 08:31
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Hi. This will sound like stupid overkill, because it is. I'm wiring up our house (via electrician since I don't want to die) with cat6 and putting our modem/router/etc in the garage with eth going to all other rooms (for a heap of other computers, a file server, a plex server and a bunch of random things). I've already got a 24port patch panel in a rack waiting in the garage for my electrician to arrive, and was wondering what switch to get to pair it with. Because of limited shopping resources in the technology wasteland that I live in I'm limited to the below models, and was hoping to get some advice about which would be the best bang for buck. They're all about the same price, so I'm more curious on features/reputation/intangibles. Netgear JGS524 Netgear GS324-100AUS TP-LINK TL-SG1024DE TP-LINK TL-SG1024D D-Link DGS-1024D Thanks for the help. I've done some research but have been going around in circles so wanted to get some saner opinions.
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Jan 21, 2018 08:57
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If you're looking at smart/managed switches, read the manuals first and make sure it's got a standard web browser interface or telnet/SSH. Don't get switches that require proprietary clients to configure like some of the Netgear poo poo.
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Jan 21, 2018 11:26
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Just got 1Gbps fiber and torrents are slow as balls both down/up. Opened up the ports and verified on the most expensive Linksys router not sure if I need to start using a VPN or what. Literally the highest speed has been 5Mbps. I'll do some regular downloads to see what I can pull off.
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Jan 21, 2018 12:49
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havent heard a peep posted:Just got 1Gbps fiber and torrents are slow as balls both down/up. Opened up the ports and verified on the most expensive Linksys router not sure if I need to start using a VPN or what. Literally the highest speed has been 5Mbps. I'll do some regular downloads to see what I can pull off. Which service is it? It would be nice to know for other torrent goons.
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Jan 21, 2018 17:36
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CrazyLittle posted:You can always wire jacks but not connect them to a switch in order to stay under 24 total ports into your switch. Also both 24 switches have 24x RJ45 + 2x fiber ports, and you can convert the fiber ports to RJ45 with a copper module, giving you 26 total ports. Caveat to this: some lovely managed switches share the SFP ports with two copper ports, so using the SFP disables one of the RJ45s.
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Jan 21, 2018 18:16
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CrazyLittle posted:This actually IS within the realm of possibility - Yeah, making changes in the Pace menus can actually break poo poo sometimes. The menu systems are really really bad. But of course you can just factory reset and redo your settings at any time. Thanks. I really appreciate this, and may just end up having to factory reset the Pace thing occasionally. My setup isn't that complex, I've just got a couple of ports forwarded to a home server running on a static internal IP. Given that I'm in a 2-story house with no attic or basement, I'm going to call a low-voltage guy to see how much it would be to pull some Cat6 and distribute WAPs.
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Jan 21, 2018 18:21
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IOwnCalculus posted:Caveat to this: some lovely managed switches share the SFP ports with two copper ports, so using the SFP disables one of the RJ45s. Yes, but not in the case of the two Ubiquiti switches in question.
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Jan 21, 2018 21:42
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CrazyLittle posted:You can always wire jacks but not connect them to a switch in order to stay under 24 total ports into your switch. Also both 24 switches have 24x RJ45 + 2x fiber ports, and you can convert the fiber ports to RJ45 with a copper module, giving you 26 total ports. CrazyLittle posted:Edgeswitch has more control over some of the advanced features that you're probably not going to mess with. If you're using UniFi APs then it makes sense to stick with the UniFi switch so they're all in the same management interface w/ the UniFi controller. CrazyLittle posted:Edgerouter PoE is "passthrough PoE" so if you power the whole thing with a 48V 2.5A power supply then you can supply 48V PoE to the devices downstream. The UniFi APs include a PoE injector in the single packs. The 5-pack of UAP-AC-(Pro/Lite) do not include power injectors. Excellent insight, thank you! I'll probably get a 48V power supply for the router just in case I do use those that on the router. I am having someone come over to the house on Thursday about the job. I have a couple more quesitons. I went with your recommendation on the Unifi switch since the Unifi Controller for that and the AP is probably some convenience I will desire. That switch had a fan, does that mean it'll be ok to put in a closet? I was thinking of having the modem, switch, and router in the top shelf of a coat closet in the entry hallway. Should I move that stuff somewhere that'll get more air? I read that the fan can be loud unless you swap it out with a different one and I'd rather not have to mess with it. My second question: I am buying a big spool of Cat6a cable. I am seeing STP, UTP, and FTP. I am familiar with STP and UTP from my Cisco networking classes back in high school but I can't say I've heard of FTP. It has a $40 premium on Monoprice and I am not sure if I need anything past UTP it considering I will be buying the innerduct you recommended in an earlier post. If I am running as many as 6 cables to a couple of the gang boxes, would the shielding help any?
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Jan 21, 2018 23:56
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What is the recommended wireless router for a medium sized home these days? Lots of devices connecting wireless to it and about 4 hardwired.
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Jan 22, 2018 02:15
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Texibus posted:What is the recommended wireless router for a medium sized home these days? Lots of devices connecting wireless to it and about 4 hardwired. Define "lots." Over 20 and I'd look at a ubiquiti wireless access point + wired router. Under that and a consumer router will probably be alright. The OP mentions TP-Link Archers and I've had good luck with ASUS AC routers, I'd just get whatever's cheapest of those.
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Jan 22, 2018 02:50
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E-Diddy posted:Excellent insight, thank you! I'll probably get a 48V power supply for the router just in case I do use those that on the router. I am having someone come over to the house on Thursday about the job. I have a couple more quesitons. I went with your recommendation on the Unifi switch since the Unifi Controller for that and the AP is probably some convenience I will desire. That switch had a fan, does that mean it'll be ok to put in a closet? I was thinking of having the modem, switch, and router in the top shelf of a coat closet in the entry hallway. Should I move that stuff somewhere that'll get more air? I read that the fan can be loud unless you swap it out with a different one and I'd rather not have to mess with it.
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Jan 22, 2018 05:11
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redeyes posted:Which service is it? It would be nice to know for other torrent goons. TDS
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Jan 22, 2018 06:01
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E-Diddy posted:That switch had a fan, does that mean it'll be ok to put in a closet?  E-Diddy posted:I can't say I've heard of FTP. FTP is "foil-shielded twisted pair". Like STP but not as thick, and potentially easier to work with. HOWEVER, don't get shielded cable unless you know WHY you're getting it and are prepared to terminate it correctly with all the right connectors and grounding requiers. Otherwise the shielding itself becomes a nice big antenna that interferes with your data signal. Rexxed posted:Define "lots." Over 20 and I'd look at a ubiquiti wireless access point + wired router. Under that and a consumer router will probably be alright. The OP mentions TP-Link Archers and I've had good luck with ASUS AC routers, I'd just get whatever's cheapest of those. Yeah, the Asus crown-of-thorns routers get good reviews and seem to have good regular updates. IIRC they didn't make the cut because they're just arbitrarily more expensive than the selected TP-Link models.
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Jan 22, 2018 06:48
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There is no FTP, there's only F/STP and F/UTP. Obviously only one can be called lighter/smaller.
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Jan 22, 2018 08:33
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SEKCobra posted:There is no FTP, there's only F/STP and F/UTP. Obviously only one can be called lighter/smaller. nah, there's "FTP" cat6 which is foil-shielded instead of braided-sleeve.
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Jan 22, 2018 09:57
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I thought there was UTP with no shielding, FTP with one bit of foil wrapped around all the pairs, and STP with each pair individually screened. And then a version of each of the last two with an extra screen around everything. I presume different cable manufacturers call it by different names.
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Jan 22, 2018 12:07
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So my current (UK ADSL) ISP-provided Technicolor TG582n seems to have failed now, as the wifi seems to be totally hosed. My PC is ethernet-connected, but I've got a Chromecast and work laptops that are wireless, so a good wireless connection is essential. I've had a look at the Wirecutter and their recommended pick of the NETGEAR R7000 for £110-120. But then I had a look at the Ubiquiti devices in the OP - I expect the UAP-AC-Lite @ £75 would be fine for my small house - can I just connect it to a new ADSL modem and have it work? (in their user guides it only seems to talk about connecting it to their own PoE switches)
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Jan 22, 2018 14:25
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Carpet posted:So my current (UK ADSL) ISP-provided Technicolor TG582n seems to have failed now, as the wifi seems to be totally hosed. My PC is ethernet-connected, but I've got a Chromecast and work laptops that are wireless, so a good wireless connection is essential. Edit: Before all this, check that the Chromecast isn't killing your WiFi first. If you want to replace the Technicolor router, you'd need a DSL modem/router such as the Netgear D7000, which is the ADSL/VDSL version of the R7000. If the Technicolor router is fine apart from the WiFi, then yes, you can just turn it's WiFi off and connect the UAP (via the Power over Ethernet injector).
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Jan 22, 2018 15:01
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I think the router's on the way out anyway - reboots if I knock it (got disconnected while writing this post and had to reboot it a few times). Yesterday it went off 1/3 through a Netflix movie, and I can now only get a wifi signal on my phone when standing right next to it. (PC's now acting as a wifi hotspot in the meantime.) I've now seen the Netgear DM200 @ £35 which looks like it would do fine for a modem and has the DHCP server the UniFi requires. Plus reading this Ars Technica review has sold me on it - might get the CloudKey at some point to act as the management server. Just need to redeem that £100 Amazon voucher I got from work...
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Jan 22, 2018 16:10
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I've ordered two UAP-AC-LITES and I'm trying to figure out best places to locate them to cover my house. Any opinions on whether I should do one per floor centrally, or do one on right side and one on left side of the house (or a combination)? I realize this will depend building to building, but general guidelines or successes would be helpful. It will be much easier to run cabling if I can do a left/right split on the second floor as I have already got cables pulled up into the attic. In related news, my Ubiquiti Amplifi home mesh system is for sale in SA Mart if anyone is interested...
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Jan 22, 2018 16:21
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That Netgear DSL modem is poo poo. Grab a Draytek 120 or something if this is for ADSL.
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Jan 22, 2018 16:55
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Thanks Ants posted:DSL is poo poo. Fixed that
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Jan 22, 2018 17:22
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redeyes posted:How long are the runs? Are they going around stuff with a lot of EM interference? Chances are no. I'm not sure yet. The house is about 2000 sq. ft. I went up to the attic and there wasn't anything going on up there, like most attics. From the answers in this thread and doing some more reading online, I think UTP is all I'll need.
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Jan 22, 2018 17:32
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Twerk from Home posted:
I have this exact same setup and haven't had any problems with my 5268. I never have to reboot it or anything, both wireless networks are surprisingly flawless...it just works. Maybe you just need a replacement router? I have their 100Mb service currently but had their gigabit for a month and I was getting 970mb up/down on my hardwired laptop, and like 3 or 400 on the 5ghz wireless. Something is not right with your installation. Is your router hardwired to the PON (I think it's called that, the device the fiber connects to)? When I first had it installed I had the router connected to the fiber box via powerline adapters and that was...not ideal. The router was in the middle of the house but the speeds were awful. I moved it and hardwired the two together and haven't had any speed related issues since. edit: my wireless networks are even renamed! don't tell at&t! TheWevel fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Jan 22, 2018 |
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Jan 22, 2018 17:53
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Twerk from Home posted:I could really use a hand with my terrible home network. I just moved, and have been fighting terrible wifi in the new house. I have some knowledge, but it's out of date. In previous houses I owned my own cable modem, put the router and modem at one corner of the house, and a 2nd WAP connected by ethernet lines in the house at the other corner of the house on non-overlapping bands, and everything worked pretty well. I've got about wireless 15 client devices total, mostly non-Apple. I've got the same 5268ac and Gigabit service as you, with zero problems the last couple of years. First off the support guys aren't that great. Support is highly scripted, they don't hire technical people, and I can go on, but I won't. It's very frustrating though. Changing the SSID and default password won't make a bit of difference. I don't use the onboard wireless so I have it disabled, but I've had a custom password since day 1 with no problem. The 5268 is plenty capable of gigabit routing in my experience. I have no issue pulling a full 940 mbit down on my line when the server on the other end can provide the speed. (One of the few that can is Xbox Live, a 45GB game downloads stupid fast). I have the IPTV service as well, so all my non IPTV devices are hung off a 8 port D-Link gig switch, so that handles most of the device to device transfers on my network. I've never used the onboard wireless on the 5268ac, The prior gateway line for U-Verse had issues supporting a large number of wireless devices in my household, so I bought a 6th gen Airport Extreme and have been using that the last couple of years. I like it, so I kept using it. Start with the basics. If you can pull good speeds wired to the gateway, you know that piece is working fine. Wireless is a bitch to troubleshoot though. What's the house like? Newer construction or older? I have a set of AV500 powerline adapters, and I can pull 80-120 mbit through them with no problem. Your not plugging them into any sort of surge protector are you? Try changing outlets around, see if one is better than the other. How hard would it be to run a couple of Cat5 lines? If it's a single story house with attic access, fishing a couple lines isn't too hard. They make a flat ethernet cable that can easily be tucked down near baseboards as well. There's lots of options to improve your situation.
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Jan 22, 2018 17:59
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thiazi posted:I've ordered two UAP-AC-LITES and I'm trying to figure out best places to locate them to cover my house. Any opinions on whether I should do one per floor centrally, or do one on right side and one on left side of the house (or a combination)? I realize this will depend building to building, but general guidelines or successes would be helpful. It will be much easier to run cabling if I can do a left/right split on the second floor as I have already got cables pulled up into the attic. If one WAP can cover the width of the entire house, then do one per floor. Make sure you mount it flat, basically parallel to the floor/ceiling, and not something perpendicular like on the wall.
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Jan 22, 2018 18:13
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Thanks Ants posted:That Netgear DSL modem is poo poo. Grab a Draytek 120 or something if this is for ADSL. What's the matter with it? Can't seem to get the Draytek 120 anymore, except second hand from eBay; the 130 is about £80 which seems a big jump in price from the Netgear one. Is it worth risking a second hand 120 on eBay?
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Jan 22, 2018 18:48
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I never had much luck with it when I was using it with VDSL. If you need an ADSL modem for not-DrayTek money (anecdotally, stuff connected to a phone line tends to have a limited lifespan and I wouldn't buy it second-hand) then look at the D-Link DSL-320B or the TP-Link TD-W9970 which can be put into a bridge mode, and will also do VDSL if you get an upgrade in the future.
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Jan 22, 2018 20:35
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What are the VDSL speeds like in your area? Caps out where I am around 50/16, which I think the DM200 was okayish about (I ran one for a while attached to an ER-X; since swapped to a DrayTek Vigor 130.) Anything more and you'd definitely want something more powerful. DrayTek is ideal. Edit: Text on the Amazon page says the DM200 has a gigabit LAN port, which I can tell you from experience is  a lie , if there's any chance your VDSL is faster than 100Mbit/s find something else
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Jan 22, 2018 21:09
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VDSL's 40-80Mb FTTC, depending on package. Currently only on 6Mb ADSL but am considering upgrading. Might get the Draytek if it'll be future proof then, but don't think I'm at any risk of going over 100Mb anytime soon!
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#
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Jan 22, 2018 21:15
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