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MrOnBicycle posted:If you mean Bilt Hamber, jesus christ you weren't kidding. I checked some ppc co for the foam, and it's 40% more expensive than what I bought mine for. Interestingly, the guys I bought my Auto Foam from (Slim's detailing) charge exactly what Bilt Hamber themselves do, i.e. £16,97 for 5 liters. No chance getting anything like real world price down here unless open distro, or at least a huge retailer distro. PPC is not these things and restricts the market. I can go to an auto parts store and off the shelf by autoglym, mothers and meguires at reasonable prices because major retailers brought them in. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Jan 21, 2018 |
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Jan 21, 2018 12:57
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BraveUlysses posted:foam? which product specifically? This is the Ammo Foam product I was referring to. MrOnBicycle posted:Though I haven't tried his products but Larry's stuff is considered to be great, though at "boutique" prices. Anything from Megiuars will be very good as well. Would Meguair's Gold Class car wash shampoo be suitable for washing paint? I'm having a lot of difficulty understanding the difference between a lot of the product options out there, so being very specific would be super helpful to me. Hackjack fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Jan 22, 2018 |
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Jan 22, 2018 08:45
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Hackjack posted:Would Meguair's Gold Class car wash shampoo be suitable for washing paint? I'm having a lot of difficulty understanding the difference between a lot of the product options out there, so being very specific would be super helpful to me. Yes, before switching to Chemical Guys foam, I would use either Meguiars Gold Class, Griot's Garage Car Wash or Zymol Clear. Any branded car wash soap will be fine, don't overthink it.
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Jan 22, 2018 12:41
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Is there an easy way to fix curb rash on what I think are aluminum wheels? A friend's lease is almost up and she's trying to keep from getting dinged too hard on the inspection, but two of the wheels have some rash. I've seen some kits, but I doubt the paint will match well. I was wondering if some sanding could make it better, but I'd hate to make it worse. The wheels are the Accord sport wheels: 
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Jan 22, 2018 19:54
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If you can get a pic it would be helpful to assess the amount of curb damage. Without more info, you're unfortunately stuck getting them filled and refinished at a wheel shop, should be around $100-150 a wheel or so for ballpark figures.
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Jan 22, 2018 20:10
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Seminal Flu posted:Yes, before switching to Chemical Guys foam, I would use either Meguiars Gold Class, Griot's Garage Car Wash or Zymol Clear. Any branded car wash soap will be fine, don't overthink it. Ah gotcha. Sweet, thanks!
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Jan 24, 2018 07:11
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What do you guys do to stop the inside of your windshield from fogging?
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Jan 24, 2018 17:52
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Josh Lyman posted:What do you guys do to stop the inside of your windshield from fogging? Stop breathing  Like - are we talking about normal fogging or fogs all the time? Normal fogging can be helped by turning off the re circulation and using the defogger setting. And/or cracking a window. Fogs all the time is usually a leaking heater core
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Jan 24, 2018 19:29
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That, along with keeping the windshield clean. I find mine fog far worse when I haven't cleaned them in way too long.
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Jan 24, 2018 19:40
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Yeah, cleaning is by far the best way. Water adheres to dirt particles so the window will fog over quicker because there's more surface area to collect water. Keep it spotless, and it takes more.
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Jan 25, 2018 00:23
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Same stuff I use to clean windows (Stoner's) and defrost. 
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Jan 25, 2018 14:25
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Finally got a pic of the curb rash I'd like to fix - is this easily fixable?
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Jan 29, 2018 21:13
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MomJeans420 posted:Finally got a pic of the curb rash I'd like to fix - is this easily fixable? Sanding/polishing would be my approach.
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Jan 29, 2018 21:31
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Hmm it's for the appraisal at the end of a lease period, sounds like it's probably not worth the effort if they'll still classify it as damage. Maybe I'll try a 1" section and see if it makes it worse or better.
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Jan 30, 2018 01:35
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I need some input: I have a dollop of bird (seagull) poo poo that dried onto my rear quarter panel, and I cannot for the life of me seem to get it off. It landed on my car in Chicago in the summer, and I planned on washing it off when I got back home 2 hours away, but by the time I was home it had baked into a hard white patina on the paint. I didn't think anything of it at the time, and assumed it would spray off the next time I got the car washed. I have tried touchless car washes (numerous times since), gentle scrubbing with a soft cloth after applying car wash solution, and even spot application of Goo Gone. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get this dessicated bird poo poo off without damaging the paint?
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Feb 2, 2018 01:57
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Petite Dinklage posted:Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get this dessicated bird poo poo off without damaging the paint? Are you sure it’s still bird poo poo and not actually paint damage?
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Feb 2, 2018 02:12
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Are you sure it’s still bird poo poo and not actually paint damage? Yeah, I scratched the edge of it with my nail and there was paint underneath, and it's raised slightly off the rest of the quarter panel. I just don't want to try to manually scrape off the rest with my fingernail as it would most likely take 5 hours
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Feb 2, 2018 02:34
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Petite Dinklage posted:Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get this dessicated bird poo poo off without damaging the paint? Tried club soda?
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Feb 2, 2018 02:37
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Petite Dinklage posted:Yeah, I scratched the edge of it with my nail and there was paint underneath, and it's raised slightly off the rest of the quarter panel. I just don't want to try to manually scrape off the rest with my fingernail as it would most likely take 5 hours Try using a thick layer of paper towel or tissues placed over the spot, and then wetted with car wash solution or detail spray. Let it sit for at least 5-10 minutes, or as long as you can without it drying. Re-wet if necessary. The idea is to soften the material so it wipes off. If that doesn't work, try using an all purpose cleaner, or some kind of cirtus degreaser with this method instead. But, of course, be very wary of letting it dry out or leaving it on too long, as it may stain the paint. Use a dilution if necessary. If it still doesn't wipe off, I would use the tissue method again to soften whatever is there, and then use a claybar with clay lube in the standard manner.
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Feb 2, 2018 08:37
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Crescendo posted:Try using a thick layer of paper towel or tissues placed over the spot, and then wetted with car wash solution or detail spray. Let it sit for at least 5-10 minutes, or as long as you can without it drying. Re-wet if necessary. The idea is to soften the material so it wipes off. This is just about exactly what I was going to say. I was also going to Debbie-downer it and say that, after this long, there's probably permanent damage, because bird poo poo is nasty strong.
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Feb 2, 2018 15:58
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For anybody interested, I'm several months in on a partial and then full wrap of Suntek PPF (similar to xpel) and have a few thoughts on it for anybody considering going to this extreme. I did a stupid thing and bought a pretty black car thinking I could keep it pretty, but I think science will figure out time travel before it figures out how to keep sane trying to keep a black car looking flawless.  Pros: - It works as advertised. I can use a heat gun and watch essentially all minor scratches and marring disappear, as if I'm drying them off the paint. - It looks great, it's pretty high-gloss and you can't even tell it's been applied. - Since my car is black, I can essentially park it in the AZ sun for a workday and notice a lot of the every-day flaws go away. - Once you figure out your wash routine, you can wash it flawlessly in about 15 minutes. - Obviously you never wax it. Cons: - It's soft. Softer than paint, certainly. If I dry-wipe dust off of the paint with a soft microfiber I'll see small amounts of marring show up. - It's porous, which means hard water can stain it pretty easily. - It's expensive. Wrapping my entire car by professional installers set me back about 6k. - You're going to spend money on other tools for maintenance as well. I originally got the front-end of the car done with PPF, and just used cquartz for the rest. If you do this, you're going to just forever wonder why you didn't get the entire car done, as the maintenance is so much easier on the PPF side of things. You just end up being overly paranoid about half of your car, but not the other. Also, you end up with 2 disciplines for maintenance depending on the part of the car. I'm in Arizona and have other cars I can drive so I don't have to fight sky-water or standing puddles when I don't feel like it. I used to live in the midwest, and I'm not sure I'd bother with this level of paint protection with that weather. My total not-professional opinion is that cquartz, being a hard cured ceramic, would be more resistant to minerals in the water and not as prone to hard water staining. I could be wrong. If you are dumb enough to buy a stupid car like this and spend this kind of money on protecting it, you're going to end up with a DI water filter, good power washer, Master Blaster air drier, and a heatgun / extension cable in your garage as well. All cable-routed and wall-mounted, so be sure to budget some money and time in for that in if you haven't already. Ultimately though, don't buy a black or dark car. Or a pretty car. Buy something covered in rust and fun to drive, actually. If you do buy something pretty, you could do worse than something like suntek/xpel. Just realize that it's not a zero-sum, there's a lot I wasn't really told about this kind of product going in. For instance, I left my car at a body shop to get some minor collision work done (lost a fight with a stray tire tread on the 101), and they didn't take care of it and ruined the front-wrap from just letting water, dust, and overspray get on it while it sat unprotected in their lot and shop over several weeks. I learned that you can't correct something like PPF, if it gets too bad then you replace it. In this case the body shop ended up having to cover the replacement cost. So if you don't have a garage, I wouldn't bother with a PPF, but cquartz would still be a viable idea. Sorry for a long post from a thread-lurker, but if anybody has questions about living with this kind of protection feel free to ask. Blame Pyrrhus fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Feb 2, 2018 |
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Feb 2, 2018 18:22
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Nice write up and love the car. Afaik you should be able to clay, wax and polish most PPFs as well as putting a coating on it to protect it. Probably depends on the manufacturer, but worth looking into for the front end. If the rest of it isn't bad, I'd put a good coating or sealant on it to prevent poo poo from sticking to it. I kinda want to get into learning to wrap poo poo in PPF, but it's damned expensive to gently caress up. Then again it's damned expensive (like your wrap is my whole car in money) to have put on by professionals.
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Feb 2, 2018 19:30
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MrOnBicycle posted:Nice write up and love the car. Afaik you should be able to clay, wax and polish most PPFs as well as putting a coating on it to protect it. Probably depends on the manufacturer, but worth looking into for the front end. If the rest of it isn't bad, I'd put a good coating or sealant on it to prevent poo poo from sticking to it. Well, the front was replaced already. I'm going mostly by what the detail shop told me in terms of maintenance, but I could be wrong. So maybe you could wax it and the like? But I feel like that would defeat the point.  I've heard about the process for install, and it's crazy. They have these large plotters that essentially cut the patterns into the reams. You can apply right from the "bolt" as well. Xpel apparently has a lot better software, so even Suntek installers will use it. But as it's a vertical market, xpel charges you per cut that you perform through their software. It's incredibly labor intensive, and the detail shop I use actually farms out the installs for this to a local mobile pro installer that is booked 24x7, so I've had to book pretty far in advance. The detail shop themselves are very talented, but they struggle with learning the Suntek installs, it's a real PITA from what I've heard.
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Feb 2, 2018 21:27
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I’d put brake cleaner on that turd
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Feb 3, 2018 00:10
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Linux Nazi posted:
That's just so far beyond a justifiable number, I can't get past it.
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Feb 3, 2018 01:20
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Seminal Flu posted:That's just so far beyond a justifiable number, I can't get past it.
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Feb 3, 2018 01:30
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Anyone have a good wheel brush recommendation? Cleaning these things is going to be the end of me if I keep doing it with an old MF towel.
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Feb 3, 2018 01:34
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Seminal Flu posted:That's just so far beyond a justifiable number, I can't get past it. Same. How much more would it be to just completely repaint the car in a few years if you had to? It's never going to be perfect forever so I've never tried crazy coatings or wraps on my cars. Just washing and waxing or a sealant. It's gonna get dinged up and rock chipped.
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Feb 3, 2018 04:03
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Larrymer posted:Same. How much more would it be to just completely repaint the car in a few years if you had to? If you're looking at a full repaint from a high end/quality shop I'd think you're looking at ~$10k+. More than likely you're not talking about a full repaint on a brand new car that's only a few years old though, so you'd more commonly just be doing the bumpers/spot repair and blending/scratch fixing/etc. That being said his ~$6k quote is a pretty high one and that's likely due to the specific material and the difficulty of that specific car, also it might be a higher end/boutique shop so they just charge more in general. It's not uncommon to get that kind of a job done in the $3-4k range, especially if the car is much simpler to wrap(less angles/cutouts/vents/etc). opengl128 posted:Anyone have a good wheel brush recommendation? Cleaning these things is going to be the end of me if I keep doing it with an old MF towel. These are the ones I use and they work great for wheels, plenty fine enough to get into all the cracks and crevices. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CWP9UC4/ref=psdc_15718731_t3_B01L7IIKSC 100% Dundee fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Feb 3, 2018 |
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Feb 3, 2018 06:04
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Larrymer posted:Same. How much more would it be to just completely repaint the car in a few years if you had to? I get where you're coming from, though. It's not so much how it compares to the cost of a repaint. It's about keeping it looking like-new for the entire time I have it. I've had darker cars (blurple STi) and did the entire paint correction myself with (removing the swirlies with an orbital and then polishing) and performed maintenance with all of the things discussed in this thread. This is me from 2014: Linux Nazi posted:Holy poo poo the wax on wax off reference completely explained it to me. Finally being born in the late 70s pays dividends. It's just not the same. Especially in AZ where dust is your worst enemy. As far as getting dinged up, it's literally a clear bra all over the entire car (PPF is typically a front-end clear bra treatment) so it's protected from the kinds of things a modern clear bra protects from, ie. rocks and paint chips and the like. I've seen what happens to PPF when a large paint-destroying rock hits it, and it does protect the paint (though it scars the PPF and requires a re-apply on that panel). And a lot of people do full wraps! Which is why I was posting my experiences. It's not uncommon to see full wraps happening in the shop on Hellcats, Focus RSes, even an Escalade last time I was in. I'm not saying everybody should rush out and get it done, I'm just posting my thoughts and filling in some gaps that aren't typically conveyed when PPF is pitched to you as an option. Blame Pyrrhus fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Feb 3, 2018 |
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Feb 3, 2018 07:40
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Elmnt80 posted:Is there anything to know in advance if I have a fender vinyl wrapped? Is just standard wash and wax good enough? I'm picking this up tomorrow. I was thinking wash, wax it and keep it up with an exterior detailer from what I've read online. Anyone else have a different experience?
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Feb 3, 2018 07:49
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Anyone dealt with an older car? Mines a 1990, in some spots, like hard creases on the roof and bonnet, the paint is so very thin that I don't want to use cutting compound at all, and I've used mild polish and a clay bar once just to do the best care I can. Currently using armourall car wash (because I already have it and results look good - it's either that or turtle wax "wash and wax" I have) and then meguire's spray detailing wax after. I've worked on other cars so I have mothers brand clay bar and spray kit, meguire's polish, meguire's ultimate compound, a buffer with synthetic "wool" and foam pads, and a drill pad of real wool from years and years ago. I don't really want to use this on old thin and non clear coated 27yr old paint, (most of the stuff I have was bought was for other cars like newer ford aussie barra falcons.) Anyway: the only good thing about my 1990 e34 is the straight body and paint. The susp and brakes were big $ repairs I have done but the 300kk engine is going to be stuffed soon too (lifters, timing chain and guides I think will be needed soon) and no idea when I can get to that budget wise plus I want to do a 3l or turbo, anyway, point is the sole redeeming feature is the bodywork and paint and I want to keep it. I want to look after the paint and bodywork if not for me at least for the next owner, and that requires a bit of paint touch ups (scratches and stone chips)- but that also means some sanding back and compound. Anyone here tackled an old car job? Like surface rusting door drains and old stone chips on bumper/bonnet and regular door scratches and chips? I'm thinking of building up stone chip repairs with spray can paint applied by brush and then 2000grit sanding and compound plus polish. Best prep, best way or no way tips are being asked for right now. I want do it right because if it looks OK then maybe one day I'll get around to the mechanicals and if I don't my kid will maybe one day (although he wants a pontiac and they haven't made them here since the 60s. He also wants a kombi). Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Feb 4, 2018 |
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Feb 3, 2018 17:59
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If you're that concerned, check into one of those cheap paint thickness gauges. Usually those single stage jobs shine up incredibly well. meatpimp did an MR2 some years back that came out really well.
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Feb 5, 2018 15:01
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I doubt you can burn through the paint with a random orbit and ultimate compound.
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Feb 5, 2018 18:19
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Yeah, get a paint thickness gauge.
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Feb 5, 2018 18:30
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Detail goons, I got an 04 mustang that was my dream car. Say hi to her. She has a slight problem though  This is on the trunk lid. Its a dry, rough material. I honestly don't know what it is, it almost feels like some cheap paint put on metal to blunt the edges. I would imagine if it was car paint it would be a lot smoother, and if it was metal it'd also be smooth. I'm concerned about taking a buffer to it and the area around it. I'm worried it'll damage the paint some more. Would it be safe to buff the area around it (I mean look at the paint, it needs to be buffed. This picture was taken right after a wash and look at all those water stains), then wax it? Unrelated and dumb question, when it comes to cleaning my windows any reason I can't just use a squeegee to remove the liquid and use a microfiber on the remaining liquid? And finally, should I bother with doing a full on detail with her? I live in a dusty town, not only that but right next to my job's parking lot is a huge dirt lot. Also I cannot store her in the garage, so I'm thinking its a lost cause to keep a black car looking spotless with these conditions. E: Oh and I have this unique talent to summon the rain whenever I wash my car. I washed it today and its going to loving rain tomorrow. It always rains after I wash. Leal fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Feb 22, 2018 |
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Feb 22, 2018 01:01
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Leal posted:Detail goons, I got an 04 mustang that was my dream car. It's a strange alligator-textured line you have there. Either way, it's not going to polish out. That, paired with the clearcoat damage that shows in the pictures leads me to direct you to a "Black wax," stat. That'll give you a good gloss and cover up a LOT of the flaws. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G6207-Black-Wax-Paste/dp/B009OBW29S Try it and thank your friendly neighborhood meatpimp. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Feb 22, 2018 |
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Feb 22, 2018 01:08
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Seminal Flu posted:Try it and than your friendly neighborhood
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Feb 22, 2018 01:15
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Leal posted:Detail goons, I got an 04 mustang that was my dream car. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Feb 22, 2018 |
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Feb 22, 2018 01:23
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Leal posted:Detail goons, I got an 04 mustang that was my dream car. That line looks like clearcoat failure and the only real way to fix it is a repaint.
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Feb 22, 2018 02:31
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