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Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

metaxus posted:

CE Lancer?
Looks like an older Saab.

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Puddin posted:

One place I deliver to now used to defrost chicken in the rear sink by just running cold water over it.

At least in the US, this is considered acceptable. Every food handler's permit class I've taken said cold (not warm, only cold) water running over a frozen item is the proper way to defrost if you need to use that item the same day. Defrosting in the cooler is preferred, but that takes a day.

This is assuming you're using a sink that's clean to begin with... and you clean/sanitize the sink after.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
I'm dumb.

Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jan 29, 2018

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
why? you can print with abs right? i've used ABS hub rings for thousands and thousands of miles without incident. track days too

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Even without tapered lug nuts, once the wheel is bolted down and torqued a hub centric ring isn't doing anything.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Ah, I thought they were all metal, my bad. All the ones I've bought were metal and I thought that the heat would do bad things to the plastic. Yeah, I totally print in ABS.

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.

BloodBag posted:

You know how every 'how to burp your cooling system' article and video says to 'elevate the front of the car? I learned this weekend why

I had the miata on stands, so it was level. I wanted to burp the cooling system and all that and check for leaks. I idled it for a while, goosed the throttle a few times, and waited with the rad cap off. I knew the exact moment the thermostat opened because a thick green geyser erupted out of the opening. Ah, now I know why you elevate the front of the car, to put the top of the radiator above the thermostat neck. And knowing is half the battle.

Related:

If you ever run out of coolant (hose blew off) and the car overheats, wait until it cools right down before you add water to the rad.

If you leave it 5 mins before pouring a 2 litre bottle of water in, it will happily flow down into the system before there is a sudden, ominous rumble that will cause you to look inside the open rad cap to see what is happenig.

Tubgirl.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

gently caress it, man. Throw some stories in the chat thread.

AI chat thread? Is that allowed since the poo poo ain't car related? (I've never set foot in there)

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


Yeah the chat thread is just about whatever. Feel free to post away!

BloodBag
Sep 20, 2008

WITNESS ME!



StormDrain posted:

Have you never shotgunned a beer?

Can't say that I have. Not really sure how that relates to this :shrug:

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



Enourmo posted:

Check out Mr Cool Parking



E: wrong Bad Car Stuff thread, whatever. His brain is the mechanical failure.

Where's a shopping cart when you need one

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Breakfast Feud posted:

How much would you pay for a vintage s10? 2 grand? What if I told you it was an electric conversion using a whole bunch of 6 volt lead acid batteries? Does 6 grand sound okay?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5TZzZD7fDQ

These dudes did just that, but then sank something like 34k Canadian into the loving thing by using lithium cells and custom fabricating a whole pile of poo poo for it. 34 grand spent on an otherwise bone stock s10 and there isn't even regenerative braking.

"Drive for free!" <spends a fortune on equipment, tools, retrofit gear...>

The EV conversion dudes do the same thing. I'd love to convert one of my dead RX-7s to EV, but it would cost several times what just rebuilding the rotary would cost, and I don't drive near enough to recoup the cost, no matter how cheap it is to drive.
I'll still do it when I have several thousand to drop on it, but I don't right now.

edit: hahahaha $10,000 conversion on the Austin, and only a 50km range.

Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Jan 29, 2018

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
That's pretty much the case for EVs in general. Unless you fit very specific use criteria, you'll likely not make any saving over driving a conventional car.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



Darchangel posted:

"Drive for free!" <spends a fortune on equipment, tools, retrofit gear...>

The EV conversion dudes do the same thing. I'd love to convert one of my dead RX-7s to EV, but it would cost several times what just rebuilding the rotary would cost, and I don't drive near enough to recoup the cost, no matter how cheap it is to drive.
I'll still do it when I have several thousand to drop on it, but I don't right now.

edit: hahahaha $10,000 conversion on the Austin, and only a 50km range.

I'd also love to do an EV conversion for fun.

Is there not any way now do do it cheaply? (ignoring all labour/tool/equipment costs!) I assume that if you only wanted a low range (40-50 miles would do all my local shopping/errands/station commutes) then you could drop the costs a lot?

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.
I was going to half-suggest a milk float as the basis for a project, but they seem to be pretty pricey

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1961-MORRISON-ELECTRIC-MILKFLOAT/122855295347

EDIT:

Ooh, only £2k for this one



https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-vehicles/original-classic-battery-milk-float-cabac/1284427847

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Sure, lead acid batteries aren't that expensive. I mean the energy density is terrible and the weight is, well, literally lead.

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.
Hey, you might be onto something here:

http://www.milkfloats.org.uk/faq.html

quote:

Q: How much do they cost to run?
A: This is tricky to calculate accurately, but based on the charge time and average power consumption of my own milk float, it works out to very roughly 1 kWh for each mile driven. My electricity supplier currently charges me 11.6p per kWh, so that's roughly 12p per mile, excluding maintenance costs, but this is very un-scientific and relies on a lot of assumptions and guesswork. Batteries are the biggest single maintenance cost, and these need to be replaced every five to ten years, depending on how the vehicle is used.

Q: How far do they go on a full charge?
A: Again, this depends on the individual float as they are often built to specific customer requirements, but 60 to 80 miles per charge is typical. Frequent stopping and starting, particularly on steep inclines, will significantly reduce the range. Unlike a vehicle powered by an engine, the most efficient way to drive an electric milk float is to depress the accelerator fully to the floor and keep it there. Charging the batteries is typically an “overnight” task, taking around 8 hours or longer.



quote:

Q: How fast do they go?
A: This varies between floats, but top speed is typically around the 15 to 20mph mark.

Ah.


Unless you live in London:

quote:

This year, according to Transport for London, London cars are driving at an average of just 16.5 miles per hour, falling to 7.4 miles per hour in the city core.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



spog posted:

Hey, you might be onto something here:

Q: How much do they cost to run?
A: This is tricky to calculate accurately, but based on the charge time and average power consumption of my own milk float, it works out to very roughly 1 kWh for each mile driven. My electricity supplier currently charges me 11.6p per kWh, so that's roughly 12p per mile, excluding maintenance costs, but this is very un-scientific and relies on a lot of assumptions and guesswork. Batteries are the biggest single maintenance cost, and these need to be replaced every five to ten years, depending on how the vehicle is used.

Haha. My electricity costs 17p/kWh and my Panda has cost an average of 11.8p/Mile for petrol over the past 6 months..

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
According to Fuelio, my fuel cost for the crown vic over the past 10 months has been $0.117/mile in gas. I've driven just about exactly 10k miles, which is two oil changes at an additional cost of $40/5,000 miles, or .008/mile. Adding in ICE-specific replacement parts at .02/mile, that's $.145/mile total ICE-specific running costs (excluding tires/suspension/glass).

Electric, for me at between .09-.24c/kWh electric cost depending on time of day, would be 100% for convenience. Being able to avoid filling up by charging at home would be baller, because gently caress gas stations, but that's about it.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

BloodBag posted:

Can't say that I have. Not really sure how that relates to this :shrug:

Beer is under pressure in the can, if you don’t want a geyser of beer when you punch a hole in it, you gotta hold the can at the angle where the air inside is at the site of the hole. You just had an open hole and pressurized the system without it being on top.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Tomarse posted:

I'd also love to do an EV conversion for fun.

Is there not any way now do do it cheaply? (ignoring all labour/tool/equipment costs!) I assume that if you only wanted a low range (40-50 miles would do all my local shopping/errands/station commutes) then you could drop the costs a lot?

Not really, unless you want to go short distances slowly.
Motors and controllers that will handle/put out enough horsepower to make a car do what we're used to gas engines doing effortlessly all day long are pricey. That's before you get into batteries. You could do 72V and only drive 30 miles @ 30 MPH, but that's pretty much a golf cart. Bumping up to something that will do 60 MPH, and at least do 50 miles at that speed, or more at city speeds will cost you something like $12K in Lithium batteries alone, and several more thousands for the motor and controller. Then there's the charger. I don't want a gold cart. I want, for example, my electric RX-7 to at least equal performance of the rotary, not including range, of course. I can live with 50-60 mile range. It's not going to be a highway trip car, but it has to be highway capable in TX.
See that Drive for Free video posted previously. They did a nice job on that truck, but ouch. They re-used the motor and controller, but still spent $9K on batteries (after finding a good deal for $95/100 AH) plus a $1200 charger *kit* (though a hefty charger).
For what they spent on batteries I could get a pretty bitchin LSx, so it would have to be for the fun and novelty of it. You might be able to find a used Prius or other EV/hybrid battery pack for less. EV West is disassembling Tesla packs.

edit: for $12K, I'd just buy a used Volt, Prius, or if I wanted a full-on EV, Leaf.

autism ZX spectrum
Feb 8, 2007

by Lowtax
Fun Shoe
The original s10 setup they bought was probably the best you can get for distance vs. cost. Lead acid conversions with low cost controllers are okay, if you really only need them for around town. I think Rabbits used to be popular for the conversions because they were light but still a truck.

If you're going to daily an EV there's no reason to build one. The Drive for Free vid is almost cringe inducing since they don't even use regenerative brakes and they waste so much money on stuff that's really inefficient and not an ideal solution.


edit: electric conversion bikes are where it's at, though

autism ZX spectrum fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Jan 30, 2018

Captain Hair
Dec 31, 2007

Of course, that can backfire... some men like their bitches crazy.
Waaaay back when the Internet was younger there's used to be a website that documented someone converting a classic mini to electric power by using an old milk float.

Now keep in mind a classic mini is an a - series engine, block on top with gearbox on he bottom with a sump and sharing the oil. What they did was to fit a flat sheet to the gearbox with a small entry for the chain/belt/gear/whatever they used to connect the motor to the gearbox.

End result was a classic mini powered by a milk float engine but retaining the standard 4 + Reverse gearbox. It was a thing to behold. It did have a massive amount of batteries mounted somewhere irrc due to the technology limits of the time.

Bass Ackwards
Nov 14, 2003

Anything can be used as a hammer if you try hard enough.

Collateral Damage posted:

Looks like an older Saab.

Looks like a CE Lancer:


Original:

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

metaxus posted:

Looks like a CE Lancer:


Original:


Excellent work, Detective Shitcar.

The Twinkie Czar
Dec 31, 2004
I went for super stud.
I would subscribe to the Detective Shitcar youtube channel.

Bass Ackwards
Nov 14, 2003

Anything can be used as a hammer if you try hard enough.

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Excellent work, Detective Shitcar.

Doo-do-do-de-doo, De-tec-tive Shitcar, doo-do-do-de-dooooo!

The Twinkie Czar posted:

I would subscribe to the Detective Shitcar youtube channel.



“I’LL GET YOU NEXT TIME, SHITCAR!”

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Metal Geir Skogul posted:

According to Fuelio, my fuel cost for the crown vic over the past 10 months has been $0.117/mile in gas. I've driven just about exactly 10k miles, which is two oil changes at an additional cost of $40/5,000 miles, or .008/mile. Adding in ICE-specific replacement parts at .02/mile, that's $.145/mile total ICE-specific running costs (excluding tires/suspension/glass).

Electric, for me at between .09-.24c/kWh electric cost depending on time of day, would be 100% for convenience. Being able to avoid filling up by charging at home would be baller, because gently caress gas stations, but that's about it.

4 years and 113k miles worth of tracking in Fuelly for me, averaged out to $0.089/mile in fuel since I started tracking, and $0.076/mile for 2017.

$10,000 spent in gas since I started tracking. :stonkhat:

I generally do ~9k synthetic oil changes (Mobil 1 + AC Delco filter, usually about $32), spark plugs have been replaced once since I started tracking (due for replacement again, should be about $25 before any mail in rebates). The biggest expense outside of fuel has been tires, I average about 25-30k per set.

Darchangel posted:

For what they spent on batteries I could get a pretty bitchin LSx, so it would have to be for the fun and novelty of it. You might be able to find a used Prius or other EV/hybrid battery pack for less. EV West is disassembling Tesla packs.

You can snag 2nd gen and very early 3rd gen Priuses all day long for well under $5k (locally). Friend sold his 06 with all new OEM struts/shocks/springs, new master cylinder in the past 20k, and ~100k on the HV battery for $2000, with full maintenance records since about 100k (almost 300k on the car itself though). Needed motor and trans mounts, and the touchscreen was dead, only issues it had that he knew of though. Another friend that bought it has been driving it daily after replacing the mounts.

Space Gopher
Jul 31, 2006

BLITHERING IDIOT AND HARDCORE DURIAN APOLOGIST. LET ME TELL YOU WHY THIS SHIT DON'T STINK EVEN THOUGH WE ALL KNOW IT DOES BECAUSE I'M SUPER CULTURED.

Metal Geir Skogul posted:

According to Fuelio, my fuel cost for the crown vic over the past 10 months has been $0.117/mile in gas. I've driven just about exactly 10k miles, which is two oil changes at an additional cost of $40/5,000 miles, or .008/mile. Adding in ICE-specific replacement parts at .02/mile, that's $.145/mile total ICE-specific running costs (excluding tires/suspension/glass).

Electric, for me at between .09-.24c/kWh electric cost depending on time of day, would be 100% for convenience. Being able to avoid filling up by charging at home would be baller, because gently caress gas stations, but that's about it.

An electric car that's not some ancient lead-acid-powered milk-hauling monstrosity should be able to do a lot better than 1 mile per kWh. For instance, the Nissan Leaf does about 80 miles on 24 kWh; that puts it at 3.5 mi/kWh. A Tesla with a 90 kWh battery goes for roughly 300 miles; that's 3.3 miles per kWh. Even if you say that only 75% of the energy you pull from the grid makes it into usable battery charge, and you only charge at peak $0.24/kWh times, you'd still come out way ahead with electric.

Of course, that's just the per-mile running costs; it doesn't count buying the car, installing the charger, or any number of other things. But electric cars are really, really good at turning energy put into the car into energy at the wheels.

nmfree
Aug 15, 2001

The Greater Goon: Breaking Hearts and Chains since 2006

metaxus posted:

Doo-do-do-de-doo, De-tec-tive Shitcar, doo-do-do-de-dooooo!




“I’LL GET YOU NEXT TIME, SHITCAR!”
I wish we could have entire posts as thread titles.

Captain Postal
Sep 16, 2007
In case you've ever wondered what driving at speed without tyres looks like. It's actually really impressive at night time, but maybe don't do it through bushfire areas.

ABC News posted:

A man has towed a flaming trailer down the Bruce Highway for 20 kilometres leaving a trail of burning debris.

The trailer, which was being towed by a ute, did not have tyres.

Police said officers spotted the blaze near Miriam Vale at 3:00am on January 18.

Despite turning on their lights and sirens, police allege the man kept driving with his fiery load.

The burning debris caused a number of spot fires in nearby bushland.

A 49-year old man from Kybong is assisting police with their investigation.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Prius battery packs aren't that big, Nissan leafs hold their value down to crash salvage because they've got a decent size battery and the electronics are hackable. Hell I'd happily re-home the internals in any one of a dozen protect ideas, y'know, apart from lack of funds/space/skill/time

autism ZX spectrum
Feb 8, 2007

by Lowtax
Fun Shoe

CommieGIR
Aug 22, 2006

The blue glow is a feature, not a bug


Pillbug

:stare: Jesus, no. I tow cars with a Class II hitch, and even then very gingerly. This is just insane that anyone thought this would work.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
It would work, just a lot of flex in both directions.

LifeSunDeath
Jan 4, 2007

still gay rights and smoke weed every day

someone spent time on this. what is it even attached to?

EightBit
Jan 7, 2006
I spent money on this line of text just to make the "Stupid Newbie" go away.

SEKCobra posted:

It would work, just a lot of flex in both directions.

Those look to be cheese-grade threaded rod from a hardware store. Look at how it's supported, they monkey-hosed the rod under the bracket as a hook. The first time they hit the brakes hard with any kind of trailer attached, that poo poo will fold up into their bumper.

sandoz
Jan 29, 2009



boi-oi-oi-oing

autism ZX spectrum
Feb 8, 2007

by Lowtax
Fun Shoe
Looks like there might be a tow point on the driver's side, passenger's side is probably best not to think about.


I can't get over the bent threaded rods added as bracing. It kills me.

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SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

EightBit posted:

Those look to be cheese-grade threaded rod from a hardware store. Look at how it's supported, they monkey-hosed the rod under the bracket as a hook. The first time they hit the brakes hard with any kind of trailer attached, that poo poo will fold up into their bumper.

Yes but it will technically tow a trailer.

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