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KakerMix posted:
 never noticed this. Pretty weird in hindsight. I still have my turtles beach towel, I'll have to see if the art is any better.
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Feb 3, 2018 03:36
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Cowabunga 
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Imperador do Brasil posted:In my day it was vulcanized solid rubber or nothing! Pfft. Rubber? Wooden wagon wheels. 
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Feb 3, 2018 03:48
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I have a TMNT blanket around somewhere that I've had since I was like 4. I'll have to take a look at it now too.
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Feb 3, 2018 03:49
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I reaally really really should bolt on the rest of the exhaust before i drive this too much more. New turbo install went... Ok? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdKZwWqY4bQ
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Feb 3, 2018 05:20
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Ferremit posted:I reaally really really should bolt on the rest of the exhaust before i drive this too much more. New turbo install went... Ok? nah. your friends and neighbors love rad turbo noises.
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Feb 3, 2018 12:36
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sneakyfrog posted:nah. your friends and neighbors love rad turbo noises. Funny... the video didn’t pick up the sound I made when $3K of Canon DSLR and lens went out the window... One neighbour loves it cos he’s a massive petrol head so... Since we don’t have vehicle inspections in SA the next exhaust this thing gets on it will have a selectable loud valve on it. Although tomorrow I get to chase down a boost leak. Must be one somewhere cos I can barely make 13 psi, with the waste gate essentially disconnected by the boost controller it will barely hit 15.5psi. There are guys out there screwing 20psi out of this turbo on this motor
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Feb 3, 2018 13:19
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it sounds rad as gently caress
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Feb 3, 2018 13:22
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sneakyfrog posted:nah. your friends and neighbors love rad turbo noises. Sometimes even an exhaust pipe all the way to the end of the car doesn’t really make a difference. I don’t have neighbors but my friends unapologetically love it and compare it to a turbo diesel off-idle https://youtu.be/_xNOwuOGhWo Ferremit, yours also sounds gnarly in the best way.
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Feb 3, 2018 13:54
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New tire day arrived, so I recorded a crappy short burnout on the way to mount them. I didn't record the decent one, unfortunately. Still a bit of smoke happens! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tPfI1bPNto
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Feb 3, 2018 17:42
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I added the pre 2017 OEM dash ambient lighting and glovebox lighting for the fiesta. tapped it off the factory connector in the passenger side kick panel. looks stock, was about 20 bucks in OEM parts.
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Feb 4, 2018 15:23
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Powershift posted:It's this thing That's way cool. Tad pricey, in CanoBucks anyways. Why the heck is it in category: Tools & Home Improvement › Power & Hand Tools › Power Tool Accessories › Hole Saws? Larrymer posted:Looking for something? Yeah, it broke for me when I changed ".ca" to ".com". The one you posted looks identical but for brand. Gonna throw that on the wish list for when disposable income is available, if ever. fake edit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-6-ft-6-Outlet-Cord-Metal-Power-Station-with-LED-Lights-and-USB-Ports-YLPT-105/301035736 A bit cheaper, and available at Home Despot. And here's one that will stand on the work surface: https://www.amazon.com/Winplus-PB31...9WRK7NAWXFFVHZN I like the individually-switched outlets. Imperador do Brasil posted:I’m super glad that the design of the cluster allows for drop-in replacement bulbs. My friend has an Avalanche and he had to desolder and resolder new bulbs and resistors into the cluster board. Engineers who design any lighting soldered in (that aren't LEDs) on an automotive application should be flogged. Metal Geir Skogul posted:No pictures but I de-copified the crown vic some more today. Removed the last of the blue reflective decals, and built a quick little relay setup for the trailer wiring. The stock Ford LCM (lighting control module) is not only really expensive, but can't handle more than 15A or so on the turn signal flasher channels, or so I'm told. I rent small trailers from time to time, and luckily Uhaul's motorcycle trailers are LED. However, I don't want to chance it like I have been just tapping off of the circuits, so I made a box that runs everything though relays. I built a trailer light relay pack for mine, for the same reason, then immediately afterward realized that the relays on the underside of the trunk lid are... turn signal relays for the taillights that I could have just tapped into. Eh. Thankfully, I have plenty of Bosch-style 20A relays. Protip: any time you are in a wrecking yard, look at the relay center under the hood of a Panther (right side of engine bay), and some other Ferds. They will have several full-size Bosch-style 5-pin relays, and also usually several of the smaller rectangular ones. Bog standard relays, no special-snowflake Ford pinout of properties. Fits right in a normal Bosch socket. Generally a pocket/toolbox carryout item. Ferremit posted:I reaally really really should bolt on the rest of the exhaust before i drive this too much more. New turbo install went... Ok? Lovely choo-choo noises. Unrelated: I swear I'm going to build and Aus-style house here in TX, with the wrap around porch/overhangs. It would seem a prudent style for Texas summers, and I have no idea why it's not done.
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Feb 5, 2018 19:29
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Darchangel posted:That's way cool. Tad pricey, in CanoBucks anyways. Amazon.ca is kind of a mess, nobody cares about us  I think they're a little cheaper at Costco? I was considering one before I decided to go full hood rat with my garage lighting and bought a shitload of bulb splitters and 1500lm LED bulbs.
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Feb 5, 2018 20:09
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Shrugs Not Drugs posted:Amazon.ca is kind of a mess, nobody cares about us We care about you! It would be such a pain to get to Alaska without Canada.  Also, maple syrup, and hockey. I’ve got several 4’ T8 fluorescents in my garage, and an 8’ T12 fixture I rescued from a shed being torn down. Can’t stand a dark work space. I’ll change them all to LEDs when I run out of the cheap case of T8s I got from Habitat For Humanity’s Store, and probably bodge the 8’ into 2 4’ and convert at some point as well. I’ve got no way to get 8’ fluorescent bulbs home now that I don’t have my Cherokee. Can probably fit them into the Crown Vic, but they’re so scary fragile. For that matter, I have a bunch of cheap 4’ T12 fixtures that I replaced with the T8s that I can convert now that LEDs are cheapish. Then I can get clever and mount a pair on the back side of the garage door to eliminate the dark spot from the raised door.
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Feb 5, 2018 21:40
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Darchangel posted:Unrelated: I swear I'm going to build and Aus-style house here in TX, with the wrap around porch/overhangs. It would seem a prudent style for Texas summers, and I have no idea why it's not done. Energy efficiency in Australian houses is really poor. People tend to die of the "cold" (not even sub zero) here in Australia due to poor insulation or awful layouts.
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Feb 5, 2018 23:16
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I finally tracked down some ready to insert wires for my steering wheel controls. Installed them after figuring out the bad videogame logic puzzle of "which connector goes where". (Hint: you have to tie in a ground to one). Apparently no one on the internet has used standard steering wheel controls on a Subaru outback without just throwing an Access at it, the AE64.com dude must be dead since September (  ), and big ups to Brian of AudioHarnessHouse for giving me more help over email than should be legal for $7. Also, if you pop a fuse in your 2010 Outback and your Dual Zone climate control stops working, check fuse number 4. I know it's labeled sunroof, and I know that there are other fuses for your climate control system. Just check it.
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Feb 6, 2018 07:41
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Sorta related: One of the Accords I owned would pop a fuse if you touched the AC button (compressor seized and chewed through the clutch, so the clutch was shorted to the pulley as far as I could tell). The cluster would also die when it popped that fuse (except for the speedo, since it was cable driven), along with chimes/beeps/all warning lights. Usually took out 2 fuses. (I eventually just cut the wire to the compressor)
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Feb 6, 2018 07:55
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You Am I posted:It's sad how few Australian houses have the verandah around the outside of the house. There are too many with unprotected windows from the sun, which just heats up the house in no time. The even better one than poo poo house insulation is the amount of houses that where built to plans imported from elsewhere. This means you have the garage on the north side of the house which is where the winter warmth comes from rather than the south like the northern hemisphere. The street I used to live on had an 80% chance of the warmest room in your house during winter being the garage while the rest of the house was freezing. Doesn't help that I live in an area where decent heating is needed either tbh
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Feb 6, 2018 09:54
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Wasabi the J posted:I finally tracked down some ready to insert wires for my steering wheel controls. Installed them after figuring out the bad videogame logic puzzle of "which connector goes where". (Hint: you have to tie in a ground to one). Never change, subaru, never change... GD imprezas have a 15 amp fuse that runs: reverse lights, radiator fan relay, VSS, and whatever the fuse is labeled as.
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Feb 6, 2018 12:58
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Similarly, early 90s (and probably late 90s) XJs have a fuse marked heated rear window defrost. It also runs the starter solenoid... Only way you find that out is if you look at the wiring diagram, or finish a 4.0 swap with a custom harness you built for the first time and the loving thing won't crank because you took out all the unnecessary fuses and relays for the first fire to reduce the chances of a mishap. Only figured that out when Ace was like "I know I'm not a wiring expert and you are, but try putting the fuses and relays all back in, just try it" Sure made me feel dumb. Oh well, learned something.
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Feb 6, 2018 13:56
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chrisgt posted:Never change, subaru, never change... GD imprezas have a 15 amp fuse that runs: reverse lights, radiator fan relay, VSS, and whatever the fuse is labeled as. On my 02 impreza the rear defrost runs through the door lock fuse. And given that it now lives out its life as a junker for ice racing (i.e. never leaves the track, and I'd prefer just to leave the keys in it) I wanted to stop the loving doors auto locking. Pulled the door fuse and my rear defrost stopped working. 
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Feb 6, 2018 22:29
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Started to dive into replacing the front rotors on the Rugger and then sat for a moment looking at the front hubs then decided 'aw gently caress it' and just went through the brake system instead and replaced the pads, lubricated everything and flushed the fluid. Pedal feels nicer and the brakes have a bit more bite but the slight pulse is still there. One of these days I'll replace the rotors but today isn't that day.
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Feb 7, 2018 01:26
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KakerMix posted:Started to dive into replacing the front rotors on the Rugger and then sat for a moment looking at the front hubs then decided 'aw gently caress it' and just went through the brake system instead and replaced the pads, lubricated everything and flushed the fluid. Pedal feels nicer and the brakes have a bit more bite but the slight pulse is still there. One of these days I'll replace the rotors but today isn't that day. My truck did this because the pads sat in one spot and rusted making a low spot. . i did a ghetto resurfacing with sandpaper and the pulsing mostly went away.
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Feb 7, 2018 04:18
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Found out rockauto sent me a part for the wrong side of my car. So now I've got a $1.31 piece of plastic keeping me from putting a 4ft stack of parts on since the little bastard helps align all the things on that corner. Eat poo poo and die mazda.
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Feb 7, 2018 04:50
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At least you didn't have to buy an entire wiper arm assembly (with wiper blade) just to replace one plastic clip. $70 for a small bit of nylon, at least I'll have a spare arm and wiper blade.
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Feb 7, 2018 12:44
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In an attempt to chase down the vibration under load, I just decided to replace the drivers side axle (passenger side was already replaced). Because Saab designed everything in an rear end-backwards way, everything is a pain to work on. I didn't get pics of the disassembly but I had to pop the steering knuckle off the lower ball joint to get the axle out. Which was a pain to both get in and out because the bolt's orientation is up towards the axle, without enough clearance for a ratchet to fit on it. I had to pop off the trailing control arm to get the knuckle back on the lower ball joint with the axle installed.  That also does not have enough clearance for a ratchet, so I had to use a combination wrench and appropriate Torx bit to get the bolt back in.  Next up was getting the out tie rod back in place. The first couple of threads got screwed when I popped it off with the separator so I had to rethread (thanks to Wrar for use of his tools for that). Which meant it had to come off. Which means despite my best efforts, alignment is now off. I think a half turn will do the trick.  It still feels like the vibration under load is there...
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Feb 7, 2018 17:00
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I'll be placing an order this week for cv axles for my 4runner. I'm ordering from CVJ out of Colorado because they reman OEM toyota axles and are the next best thing for less, slightly more than Autozone/Napa but much higher quality. I've been waiting on installing my new front shocks (bilsten 5100 adjustables) until I have to install my cv axles as well because gently caress ... may as well do everything all in one go. After that I'll have my windshield replaced and get a set of new tires (Falken Wildpeak, BFG AT K02, or Cooper AT3) When we finally decide to buy a house, a decent garage is going to be high on my must-haves. Verman fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Feb 8, 2018 |
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Feb 8, 2018 20:08
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Project Miata: Driver’s side tie rod and tie rod end    Passenger front sway bar end link. The inner torx screws were rusted to gently caress on this so I had to cut it off. Used my last cutoff wheel.   Rear brakes. This involved me learning about the set screw in the caliper that both controls the ability to retract the piston as well as the parking brake adjustment, which none of my other cars have had.  Speed output sensor on the trans. This did not fix my intermittent/wonky gauge issue.  All in all a very productive day. The sway bar link had me cursing like a very creative sailor but I can’t say I had a bad time overall.
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Feb 8, 2018 20:34
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I love seeing shiny new parts in the middle of a bunch of dirty ones. No joke, it's good and nostalgic 
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Feb 8, 2018 21:31
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Replaced hood ornament. Next to the coolant cap probably the cheapest part on the car. Or maybe a lugnut. Thanks Benz. And BTW, toss a blanket, towel, dead body, anything etc because once it comes lose it will fly.
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Feb 8, 2018 23:47
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C-Bangin' it 
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I donated the old Saab today. Hopefully someone will get good use out of it. In it's place, I have....another Saab: 2005 9-3 Linear MT  1 owner, 95,000 miles, $2,450. Couldn't turn that down.
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Feb 9, 2018 02:22
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Colostomy Bag posted:Replaced hood ornament. Next to the coolant cap probably the cheapest part on the car. Or maybe a lugnut. Meanwhile the Subaru tailgate ornament is MSRP $70
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Feb 9, 2018 03:13
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Wasabi the J posted:Meanwhile the Subaru tailgate ornament is MSRP $70 Somehow it's comforting that the BMW dealership quotes the same price for their hood bauble.
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Feb 9, 2018 03:16
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After 2? years of it being mounted, i finally wired in my pick-n-pull switch panel. 2 of the breakers are dead, so for the time being i bypassed them, it's a fused feed to the switch panel anyways. simplified the wiring behind there. Just have to find the panels i made to cover up the mounting screws. I've got clear dymo label tape so hopefully i can strip off the old labels with a bit of acetone and re-label everything: turbo - nos - beer - pizza - smoke screen - ejector seat  completely cut out the ignition switch and wired in 3 switches and a start button, all hidden. Even if they find the ignition switch and the starter switch, they won't have a heater or headlights without the other 2. I also wired in the heated seats, and almost regret making the effort because they're the most flacid pieces of poo poo imaginable. I should have figured when i got in there and the stock wires were like 20 AWG, but i kept going, and they barely get warm. Not like ford or BMW seats where you could drat near cook an egg on them. gently caress you, honda. Also got all the wiring up to the engine bay for the driving lights i plan to run without having to touch the previous owner's hackjob wiring. When i'm done wiring everything up i should be able to pull all that junk out. I initially wanted to lineman splice and solder everything but it was too cold to solder. review of the tools used  1. powerfist stripper: loving ace. on the double shielded wire it could strip the outer casing without touching the inner wires so i could strip the outer stuff at an inch, and the inner stuff at 1/4 inch to make everything neat and tidy 2. propoint fancy rear end crimper: loving garbage. The teeth keep slipping out and loving up the crimp, on top of that it limits the crimping force and it's not always enough, avoid 3/5. heatshrink butt connectors: meh, only really good if you're at the higher end of the wire gauge for the connector size 4. powerfist heatshrink kit: handy as all hell, fancy rear end 2 tiered case, https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/171-pc-colour-coded-heat-shrink-tubing/A-p8292559e was on sale for like $6, should have bought em all 6. powerfist butt connector assortment: pretty awesome, has a separate crimping area on each end to grab onto the insulator as well for extra security. They were also on sale for like $6 https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/50-pc-window-butt-connectors/A-p8530016e
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Feb 9, 2018 19:07
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I have that heat shrink kit. I thought there was no way it would be any good, and here I am using it over the "expensive" heat shrink even for nice projects.
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Feb 9, 2018 19:10
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I have that heat shrink kit. I thought there was no way it would be any good, and here I am using it over the "expensive" heat shrink even for nice projects. It's already cut for you and you can get exactly the size you need. It isn't like the high-ratio shrinkage stuff but when you start out closer to the right size, it works just as well with no dicking around..
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Feb 9, 2018 19:18
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I used that shrink kit when doing up the connectors on my snowblower for the led headlight mod. 2:1 ratio isn't the greatest in the world but it works.
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Feb 9, 2018 19:36
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Wasabi the J posted:Meanwhile the Subaru tailgate ornament is MSRP $70 Heh, for the big benzo was $35. Somehow I feel vindicated for my poor choice of automobiles. (Until it is time to replace the coil pack)
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Feb 9, 2018 20:21
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Powershift posted:After 2? years of it being mounted, i finally wired in my pick-n-pull switch panel. Oh poo poo why didn’t I think of raiding a conversion van for switches!
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Feb 9, 2018 20:46
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StormDrain posted:Oh poo poo why didn’t I think of raiding a conversion van for switches! If i remember correctly, they called it a window switch and charged me like $4 for the whole unit. It's nice, the whole unit is aluminum, 6 switches with 6 breakers. lights that light up when the switch is on. If you see a 80s-90s van at the pick-n-pull, it's worth risking the stank. Powershift fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Feb 9, 2018 |
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Feb 9, 2018 20:48
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Conversion vans and/or old ambulances are chock full of expensive, awesome switches. I love the fan speed switches in conversion vans that are literally three separate nichrome coils behind the switch 
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Feb 9, 2018 22:11
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