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crazycello posted:Climbing is multifaceted sport that involves a hell of a lot of body control, proprioception, hand eye coordination, weight to strength ratio, and yes - some raw strength. It's not that losing weight makes me a worse climber. It's about my energy levels. I last maybe 45 minutes at the gym when I'm on a calorie deficit, and I can't do as many routes because I run out of energy fast. But when I'm at maintenance or higher, I can last 90 minutes easily, sometimes longer. So yeah, my rate of improvement definitely goes down considerably when I'm losing weight, since I can't do nearly as many routes. I've been climbing since August, fwiw.
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Feb 9, 2018 20:07
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enraged_camel posted:It's not that losing weight makes me a worse climber. It's about my energy levels. I last maybe 45 minutes at the gym when I'm on a calorie deficit, and I can't do as many routes because I run out of energy fast. But when I'm at maintenance or higher, I can last 90 minutes easily, sometimes longer. Eat at maintenance, or a little below, on climbing days and go on a calorie deficit the other days. That should be something like 2/3 of your week on a deficit and you can still lose weight.
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Feb 10, 2018 06:22
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after 1.5 years or so of climbing i've finally reached the point where my fingers can handle bouldering (the only climbing i do for now) more than 2-2.5 times a week, which is great. the downside is that ive developed a dull escalating pain on the outer half of my forearm and just on the edge of my bicep. i did some research on this and i think its due to overworking the other muscles in the forearm and underusing the sore ones. thus the fix seems to be "do workouts that use those muscles". the two that seemed the easiest/most sensible are reverse wrist curls and using a rubber band to constrict against me expanding my hand im not really a stranger to rehab per se, but this seems a little different and im wondering what my aim should be - should i be working these muscles as if i am directly trying to strengthen them (so progressive overload, pushing reps down) or should i be working them out like i rehabbed my shoulder injury (high reps, aiming for blood flow and daily use)? is there a reason to not do these exercises after each climbing session, and is this something i should be doing indefinitely, or ramping down once i get the pain under control? i can climb pretty easily through the pain and ive yet to get anything acute or chronic, is this a very bad idea or just a regular bad one
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Feb 10, 2018 09:17
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Verviticus posted:after 1.5 years or so of climbing i've finally reached the point where my fingers can handle bouldering (the only climbing i do for now) more than 2-2.5 times a week, which is great. the downside is that ive developed a dull escalating pain on the outer half of my forearm and just on the edge of my bicep. i did some research on this and i think its due to overworking the other muscles in the forearm and underusing the sore ones. thus the fix seems to be "do workouts that use those muscles". the two that seemed the easiest/most sensible are reverse wrist curls and using a rubber band to constrict against me expanding my hand I do the exercises and stretching listed here, but none of the other stuff. I just keep climbing on it and it clears up pretty quickly in my experience, but I've been climbing for like 15 years now and will pretty much climb through any injury at this point cause I'm dumb. As to the last paragraph I do it high rep low weight, like where it's pretty comfortable at 10-12 or so reps a set and I never feel like I'm going to fail a rep or anything. Also definitely try to do the one with the hammer (or however you want to get a bar that's only weighted on one end), that makes the biggest difference in my experience.
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Feb 10, 2018 15:32
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I'm going to JTree next week 
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Feb 10, 2018 19:13
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Verviticus posted:after 1.5 years or so of climbing i've finally reached the point where my fingers can handle bouldering (the only climbing i do for now) more than 2-2.5 times a week, which is great. the downside is that ive developed a dull escalating pain on the outer half of my forearm and just on the edge of my bicep. i did some research on this and i think its due to overworking the other muscles in the forearm and underusing the sore ones. thus the fix seems to be "do workouts that use those muscles". the two that seemed the easiest/most sensible are reverse wrist curls and using a rubber band to constrict against me expanding my hand Read this if you haven’t. http://rockandice.com/climbing-injury-prevention/dodgy-elbows-revisited/ My sore elbows saw no benefit from reverse wrist curls, rice bucket / rubber band extensor work, push-ups, etc. once I started doing the pronator teres exercise from this article, elbow pain was gone within a few weeks. Sometimes it starts to creep back but then I just re-start the PT exercise and it goes away. My elbow pain sounds like it was in a similar location to yours, but you might have to try a few different rehab exercises to find what suits you. I find that once the pain starts to go down I may increase resistance a bit, but it’s not like powerlifting where you’re trying to move heavy weight. For the PT exercise from that article, I use a dumbbell where you can add weight plates and keep them in place with lock nuts. I started with no weight on the dumbbell, and progressed by adding a 2.5 lb plate to one end, and moving it farther and farther to the end of the dumbbell by adjusting the nuts. I did 3 sets of 8 slow reps 3-4x week, often after climbing. Once I got the plate all the way to the end, the pain was gone so I decreased frequency and eventually stopped. Pain rarely comes back and is easily managed by a couple sessions of this. Could probably increase the weight above 2.5lbs if I worked at it, but doesn’t seem practical.
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Feb 12, 2018 06:40
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I bought a pair of La Sportiva Katana Velcros less than 2 months ago and it looks like the loop which holds the buckle for the top velcro strap is wearing through already on both sides (partially torn on the right shoe and starting to wear on the left). I actually had this issue with a previous pair of their shoes but it took a lot longer to wear through and the shoes were generally pretty hosed up by that point so I wasn't that bothered, and I'd kind of forgotten about it since it was years ago. Just a word of warning I guess not to pull the velcro straps over too tight with these shoes, I'm assuming it's a foot shape issue but it still loving sucks and now I'm going to have to look into getting them fixed.
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Feb 12, 2018 09:39
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M. Night Skymall posted:I do the exercises and stretching listed here, but none of the other stuff. I just keep climbing on it and it clears up pretty quickly in my experience, but I've been climbing for like 15 years now and will pretty much climb through any injury at this point cause I'm dumb. As to the last paragraph I do it high rep low weight, like where it's pretty comfortable at 10-12 or so reps a set and I never feel like I'm going to fail a rep or anything. Also definitely try to do the one with the hammer (or however you want to get a bar that's only weighted on one end), that makes the biggest difference in my experience. thanks! i'm gonna give the hammer one a try Sharks Eat Bear posted:Read this if you haven’t. http://rockandice.com/climbing-injury-prevention/dodgy-elbows-revisited/ i looked at this but for the most part my elbows are actually in pretty good shape. the pain is actually in my forearms - if you hold your hands out, palm down and clench a fist, it'll likely be the strongly delineated one on the outside. i think its this one, though if it doesnt go away in 3-4 weeks with the combo of exercises im doing, i'll talk to my physio and find out for sure. that said, i'll probably give these as a try as they overlap with what the other poster said the pain on the edge of my bicep is substantially less painful than the forearm muscle, but still a constant. it was actually a lot worse a couple months ago but has died down a lot, so it might be in part due to various other half-assed rehab exercises ive done
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Feb 12, 2018 15:19
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Suicide Watch posted:I'm going to JTree next week Jtree is cool, but too hard for me :c. I didn't get anything above V1 there.
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Feb 14, 2018 00:09
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I'm going to Bishop this weekend.. And the weekend after that... And the weekend after that...
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Feb 14, 2018 19:33
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Hey what's the best way to tape up a flapper and minimize pain if you have to climb on it before it's totally healed? I'm taking a 4-week class at my local gym and Tuesday I got a big flapper at the base of my ring finger. It's healed a little, but still stings pretty bad if you touch it. I've already paid for these classes though, so I'm gonna climb on it tonight if I can. Is there anything better than a band-aid held down with climbing tape?
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Feb 15, 2018 19:32
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A good slug of scotch right before climb time is recommended, I think
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Feb 15, 2018 20:39
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I haven’t been climbing too long but got some minor to moderate flappers a few times the first few months. Trim, NewSkin, and for the first day or two some tape on top of that seemed to work pretty well for me.
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Feb 15, 2018 21:16
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Be warned that newskin on raw open flesh like a flapper stings like gently caress all.
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Feb 15, 2018 21:55
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Just rub some chalk on it
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Feb 16, 2018 02:06
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Mons Hubris posted:Hey what's the best way to tape up a flapper and minimize pain if you have to climb on it before it's totally healed? I'm taking a 4-week class at my local gym and Tuesday I got a big flapper at the base of my ring finger. It's healed a little, but still stings pretty bad if you touch it. I've already paid for these classes though, so I'm gonna climb on it tonight if I can. Is there anything better than a band-aid held down with climbing tape? Cut the loose skin off so it can dry out, put liquid bandaid on it (this will sting like a bitch), then chalk your hands up real good when you climb. Also, since you got a flapper at the base of your finger, that generally means you were overgripping on really incut holds and slipping. Try to grab the hold using your fingers rather than your whole hand so there’s little to no pressure on the base of your fingers. Keeping your feet on the wall with better footwork will also help - think of trying to press the foothold off the wall to put a lot of weight on your feet and take some off of your fingers.
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Feb 16, 2018 03:53
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SwashedBuckles posted:Cut the loose skin off so it can dry out, put liquid bandaid on it (this will sting like a bitch), then chalk your hands up real good when you climb. Yeah I slid off a wide but somewhat jagged pinch on a steep overhang and basically unzipped my callus. I’ll have to get some NewSkin, I made do with a ton of tape but it was not pleasant.
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Feb 16, 2018 05:42
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Mons Hubris posted:Yeah I slid off a wide but somewhat jagged pinch on a steep overhang and basically unzipped my callus. I’ll have to get some NewSkin, I made do with a ton of tape but it was not pleasant. superglue or gorilla glue can work in a pinch.
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Feb 18, 2018 16:17
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Been bouldering for half a year and about to get on belay for the first time any advise Edit: taking a class but still don't know what to expect. V2s are my main thing but project V3s Hot Diggity! fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Feb 19, 2018 |
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Feb 19, 2018 04:03
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Hot Diggity! posted:Been bouldering for half a year and about to get on belay for the first time any advise Think about efficiency even more than you do when bouldering. If you brute-force through every move, which you can sometimes do on short boulders, you will run out of steam before the top of a roped route. Other than that, it's still climbing. You toproping or learning lead directly?
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Feb 19, 2018 11:45
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Mahlertov Cocktail posted:Think about efficiency even more than you do when bouldering. If you brute-force through every move, which you can sometimes do on short boulders, you will run out of steam before the top of a roped route. Toprope
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Feb 19, 2018 22:31
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Hot Diggity! posted:Toprope Like Mahlertov Cocktail says climbing is pretty much climbing. I think the biggest trap for people who start off with bouldering is trying harder routes on toprope than they should since they can do the moves even if they don't have the endurance to actually finish the route, so they end up gassing out like 1.5 boulder problems up the wall and never force themselves to do mileage on easier routes to build up endurance. Learn to rest on the wall and rest on good holds even if you don't really need to for that particular route, it'll help with finishing routes and really help if you ever want to learn to lead.
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Feb 19, 2018 23:37
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Thanks guys!
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Feb 19, 2018 23:41
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I have a friend who started climbing recently and she is looking to move away from the garbage shoes they rent out at the gym and buy her own pair. What are some good ones that won't break the bank?
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Feb 21, 2018 00:01
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I like that Tenaya shoe that is $100.
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Feb 21, 2018 01:42
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enraged_camel posted:I have a friend who started climbing recently and she is looking to move away from the garbage shoes they rent out at the gym and buy her own pair. What are some good ones that won't break the bank? Depends on what "won't break the bank". Sportiva Tarantulaces are the best economy option I can think of at full MSRP, which is 80 bucks. I still like my 5.10 Moccasysms; they're a really versatile all-around shoe, but a bit more expensive at 125.
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Feb 21, 2018 06:26
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Any ice climbers in here? I went to the Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest this year and I think I’m hooked, y’all.
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Feb 21, 2018 07:55
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I love scarpa origins as a cheap but well made shoe. Comfortable and effective.
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Feb 21, 2018 10:07
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I like the Black Diamond shoes for newbie shoes but they're the only shoes I've used in my few months doing this so
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Feb 21, 2018 19:41
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GenericRX posted:Any ice climbers in here? I went to the Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest this year and I think I’m hooked, y’all. hmmmm rather be skiing.
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Feb 22, 2018 04:14
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GenericRX posted:Any ice climbers in here? I went to the Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest this year and I think I’m hooked, y’all. Just bought a pair of crampons, hoping to get out a bit this weekend or next week. Ice climbing is really fun, but the one week I've done it I had a real problem getting good foot placements so we'll see how it goes.
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Feb 22, 2018 20:05
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I've done a bit of ice climbing but not a whole lot. I have all my own gear at this point, except not a full set of screws. I was hoping to get out this winter but it didn't come to pass 
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Feb 22, 2018 20:12
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armorer posted:Be warned that newskin on raw open flesh like a flapper stings like gently caress all. In high school, during soccer endurance training in the pre season, i was doing some suicide sprints in very wet conditions. After an hour or so of practice and mid turn on one of these, I got the worst flapper of my life. The entire ball of my foot below my big toe and almost to my arch came off. It softened as my socks got wet and eventually just ripped. At the base it was prob a quarter inch thick. I made the mistake after practice of gluing it closed with new skin. Holy titty loving christ was that an intense sensation. My girlfriend at the time did me the honor of gluing it together. Woof.
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Feb 23, 2018 05:28
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Cannon_Fodder posted:In high school, during soccer endurance training in the pre season, i was doing some suicide sprints in very wet conditions. After an hour or so of practice and mid turn on one of these, I got the worst flapper of my life. The entire ball of my foot below my big toe and almost to my arch came off. It softened as my socks got wet and eventually just ripped. At the base it was prob a quarter inch thick. I made the mistake after practice of gluing it closed with new skin. Holy titty loving christ was that an intense sensation. My girlfriend at the time did me the honor of gluing it together. Woof. Jesus Christ
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Feb 23, 2018 06:24
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Just wanted to say that I finished my first 5.10a today. I thought my belaying was never going to catch up with my bouldering, but I'm finally starting to finally get comfortable and confident at height up on the wall and having a good time. Well that's my story.
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Feb 24, 2018 00:12
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ManMythLegend posted:Just wanted to say that I finished my first 5.10a today. I thought my belaying was never going to catch up with my bouldering, but I'm finally starting to finally get comfortable and confident at height up on the wall and having a good time. Congrats! Belaying is the act of keeping a roped climber safe though, so I assume you mean top roping or leading.
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Feb 24, 2018 01:20
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armorer posted:Congrats! Belaying is the act of keeping a roped climber safe though, so I assume you mean top roping or leading. Yeah, top roping, and thanks!
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Feb 24, 2018 01:39
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 Climbed in a quarry on Saturday. Pretty small, but the approach is by subway and a 15 minute walk, so it's ok. Went up and down a bunch on the same part.
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Feb 26, 2018 17:13
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just wanna say that ive been doing all the things people recommended for my sore arm and my sore arm stopped being sore so if you gave me advice on that issue, thank you it helped a great deal!enraged_camel posted:I have a friend who started climbing recently and she is looking to move away from the garbage shoes they rent out at the gym and buy her own pair. What are some good ones that won't break the bank? i got these when they were 90ish and i love them a lot. a friend of mine has gone through 1.5 shoes or so in the same time these have remained in excellent condition https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5044-814/Helix-Rock-Shoes i feel weird wearing laced shoes when everyone seems to have velcro ones but i dont really feel compelled to take my shoes off like i see a lot of climbers do so maybe im just weird or something Verviticus fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Feb 28, 2018 |
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Feb 28, 2018 03:07
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Verviticus posted:i got these when they were 90ish and i love them a lot. a friend of mine has gone through 1.5 shoes or so in the same time these have remained in excellent condition Well yeah, a pair of flat lasted shoes are generally going to be relatively comfortable to stand around in. I have some multipitch shoes that I don't mind walking in, but my Teams or Anasazis would suck the life right out of my feet if I tried the same thing.
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Feb 28, 2018 07:39
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