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Do you guys have an idea what can cause a very seriously high glycerol production on a brett saison? I just opened a Crooked Stave ColoradoSage Can and it was nearly as viscous as cheap honey or moderately old motor oil. I have a few vague ideas (lack of oxygen during fermentation) but I've never ever experienced it at this level and wonder if you guys have any ideas. I'll open another can from the same 4pack later and take a video just in case it's also as hosed up as that can because it's something to behold.
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Feb 15, 2018 21:32
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Spanish Manlove posted:Do you guys have an idea what can cause a very seriously high glycerol production on a brett saison? I just opened a Crooked Stave ColoradoSage Can and it was nearly as viscous as cheap honey or moderately old motor oil. I have a few vague ideas (lack of oxygen during fermentation) but I've never ever experienced it at this level and wonder if you guys have any ideas. Glycerol? Some sacc strains (like 3711/Belle Saison). However, if it's seriously viscous that's commonly referred to as "ropy" or "sick" beer and was generally thought to be caused by accidental or intentional pedio infections, but the current thinking is "it's complicated". http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Pediococcus#.22Ropy.22_or_.22Sick.22_Beer thotsky fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Feb 15, 2018 |
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Feb 15, 2018 21:40
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Bingo that's it. i assumed it was a brett byproduct and was searching up brett metabolism but lmao at it being a pedio byproduct. Btw canning date was 11/17 so yeah just don't buy these if you see them.
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Feb 15, 2018 21:43
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Or buy them and sit on them for 6 months. It usually clears up.
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Feb 15, 2018 21:51
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I saved about half a pint worth of London III slurry from a batch of IPA I brewed on new years day. Will this be enough to pitch for a 5 gallon batch of a pale ale with an OG in the 1.050 range? How about if I make a starter?
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Feb 16, 2018 02:04
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Anytime i reuse slurry i make a starter just to be sure.
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Feb 16, 2018 02:37
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Should be plenty if you ask me.
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Feb 16, 2018 12:22
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How important is stirring to a yeast starter? Work is getting rid of 2 L separation funnels and I had a thought that they would be a great way of setting a starter and easily pulling off the yeast. Of course if anyone has any suggestions what else they could be used for I'd be up for that as well.
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Feb 16, 2018 15:05
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calandryll posted:How important is stirring to a yeast starter? Work is getting rid of 2 L separation funnels and I had a thought that they would be a great way of setting a starter and easily pulling off the yeast. Of course if anyone has any suggestions what else they could be used for I'd be up for that as well. Yeast likes O2 while reproducing. That said, you could certainly use sep funnels for starters, they'd just take longer to ferment out and give you the yeast. It would give you ready made slurry though, so if you didn't want to be pitching the liquid, this is not at all a bad way to do it. Even if you don't use them for growing the yeast, they'd work just fine for decanting the yeast from whatever liquid. I'd probably set them up and use them for a Brett supply if they're mostly airtight or an airlock could be fitted.
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Feb 16, 2018 15:43
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It (a stir plate) increases the growth rate by between 50% - 150% depending on size of flask and stirring speed as well as whether or not any covering is used (the more agitation and access to oxygen the better). How important it is? Eh, as long as you pitch enough yeast you are set. Doing a starter is almost always better than not doing one. I get good results by just swirling the flask now and again.
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Feb 16, 2018 15:44
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Biomute posted:It (a stir plate) increases the growth rate by between 50% - 150% depending on size of flask and stirring speed as well as whether or not any covering is used (the more agitation and access to oxygen the better). Since we're getting rid of a ton of them, these haven't been used in probably a good 20 years or so, I figured I would try to repurpose them for something with brewing. We are also going through getting rid of other glassware so I might snag some other stuff to use as well.
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Feb 16, 2018 16:49
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Welp I just got my work bonus and took the plunge on an Electric BIAB setup. After reading and watching tons of stuff I got the Brewers Edge and an immersion chiller. The negatives to the BE seem fair (hot spots at the bottom of the mash where the element resides, 16lb max grain and even that is iffy...) but not huge deals to me. Mashing I can stir to distribute the heat and after 8 years of brewing my strongest ever beer was 7%. I am pretty excited to minimize my gear because I had too much as it was for this tiny condo.
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Feb 17, 2018 19:09
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ChiTownEddie posted:Welp I just got my work bonus and took the plunge on an Electric BIAB setup. After reading and watching tons of stuff I got the Brewers Edge and an immersion chiller. The negatives to the BE seem fair (hot spots at the bottom of the mash where the element resides, 16lb max grain and even that is iffy...) but not huge deals to me. Mashing I can stir to distribute the heat and after 8 years of brewing my strongest ever beer was 7%. I am pretty excited to minimize my gear because I had too much as it was for this tiny condo. Those look awesome and I was kinda tempted, but the heating times with a 120v element are steep. Is that a big factor for you?
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Feb 18, 2018 04:35
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robotsinmyhead posted:Those look awesome and I was kinda tempted, but the heating times with a 120v element are steep. Is that a big factor for you? Ah yeah, I forgot about that...I'll have to see how it goes. My times are already pretty long with my stove top setup, but I may have to just change my process to help it out if it is annoyingly show. Something like use my kettle to heat up portions of the water faster.
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Feb 18, 2018 17:38
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I admit I haven't looked hard, but I haven't seen one of those all-in-one setups for sale in the US with a 240V input. Has anyone seen one?
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Feb 18, 2018 17:44
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Jo3sh posted:I admit I haven't looked hard, but I haven't seen one of those all-in-one setups for sale in the US with a 240V input. Has anyone seen one? I'd imagine the prebuilt ones will for the most part be 120 even though it has significant downsides because the average person doesn't have conveniently available 240v outlets in their house. Sure, there's probably one behind the dryer and/or stove, but usually those aren't located anywhere convenient to plug/unplug. Sellers aren't going to want to deal with returns from people buying the wrong one and finding out they can't easily use it without hiring an electrician. 240 is definitely better if you have a convenient plug or don't mind having to install one.
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Feb 18, 2018 18:27
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I have 240V available in the garage in a couple of places, and the circuit exists out in the back yard where the spa used to be, so I'd just have to add a box and outlet there. The previous owner of this house was an electrician, so the wiring is kinda nuts. I did not go electric just because 120V is so anemic and I did not want to build my own system from the ground up for 240V.
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Feb 18, 2018 18:46
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My setup is 2 120V elements. One of the elements is controlled by my PID and the other is just connected to an extension cord on a separate circuit. Reaching mash temp takes me about 25 minutes or so with both running. I turn off the one not connected to the PID during mash and reconnect once I'm ready to boil. Usually takes me about 4 hours total, with clean up, for a brew day.
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Feb 18, 2018 23:56
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That's pretty nice. I figured the only way to do reasonably do a 120v system would be a dual circuit/element setup. Those times are close enough to propane to be a wash. I saw some reviews on that Brewer's Edge system putting it at over 1hr to reach mash temp, etc.
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Feb 19, 2018 03:18
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I'll report back on my experience in a few weeks. I could see myself getting another heating element to help get close, but for Urban condo use it still might be the best I can get.
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Feb 19, 2018 03:36
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I'm planning to do a 240V system eventually. I've really been waiting to see if SS Brewtech comes out with something because there have been some rumors stirring about it. They hinted they have some electric stuff coming out in Q2, but have not fully announced what it is yet. They showed a housing for what appears to be a three vessel controller but they hinted there may be a BIAB setup too.
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Feb 19, 2018 05:36
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I did find recently an completely empty 240V circuit in my house. Since then I've been thinking about moving to a 240V setup. What I really want to sit down and do is redo my entire controller. Mainly, put in a Raspberry Pi with a touch screen so it's easier to control my setup. But that requires some effort. I have a hard time trying to decide what I want to brew.
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Feb 19, 2018 11:48
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I just finished my 240v build a week ago. I converted a 6'x6' closet off the back of my garage and based it on this guide: https://skrilnetz.net/how-to-build-a-brewing-control-panel-herms-240v-30-amp/ The first brew of an Irish Red went flawlessly and came in around 90% efficiency. I was able to reuse most of my propane-based HERM system, but eventually I plan to upgrade the pots and move to welded tri-clover fittings everywhere as the locations I had for most of the valves arn't ideal for the new side-by-side pot setup   ^ I found an empty 30amp circuit as well and had an electrician come in and do all the wiring/GFCI installation because I don't like invisible things that can kill you.
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Feb 19, 2018 17:23
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That setup looks extremely badass. Congrats.
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Feb 19, 2018 17:45
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I would love to have my setup in the basement. The only downside is I have not water or waste setups there. The main stack for waste is actually about 5 feet above the ground in the basement. So I'd have to rig up some kind of pump to get rid of water.
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Feb 19, 2018 19:04
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calandryll posted:I would love to have my setup in the basement. The only downside is I have not water or waste setups there. The main stack for waste is actually about 5 feet above the ground in the basement. So I'd have to rig up some kind of pump to get rid of water. I don't think it's this exact one, but my homebrew club president has something like https://www.amazon.com/BurCam-300514W-Laundry-Automatic-Switch/dp/B000GA3PFG It's a little loud, but kicks on when water hits it
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Feb 19, 2018 23:58
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Hmm now to convince the wife that I really need the rest of the unfinished basement for my hobbies.  Anyone with an electric setup BIAB have issues with burnt stuff on the element? I've been wanting to do a heffeweizen but after burning of a roggenbier I did a few months ago I'm really hesitant. I'm doing recirculation during my mash but I have a feeling it's an issue as I ramp up to the boil. I've seen some suggestions about increasing crush size to avoid flour, which I may try but want to avoid having to grind and clean my element again.
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Feb 20, 2018 00:31
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Decided on this for my brown ale. A much more complicated recipe than I'm used to, but that seems to be par for the course for brown ales these days. I'll probably use East Kent Goldings for the whirlpool next time, but I've got some Cascade to get rid off. OG: 1.057 FG: 1.015 ABV: 5.5% SRM: 25 IBU: 30 United Kingdom - Maris Otter Pale - 60% United Kingdom - Crystal 70L - 11.7% German - Dark Munich - 8.3% Flaked Oats - 6.7% American - Victory - 6.7% United Kingdom - Brown - 3.3% United Kingdom - Chocolate - 3.3% Bittering (60 min): Columbus Whirlpool (10 min): Cascade Yeast: WY1318
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Feb 20, 2018 09:02
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A while ago I got my hands on an old family beer recipe. Our best estimate is that this recipe was written down around the 1920's. Now that I have some brewing experience, and know that I am, in fact, capable of making beer worth drinking, I want to try this one I found scribbled on a piece of paper in a basement. But first! Some provenance: This particular family member lived in the cascade mountains, served in WWI, and was certainly an adult during the prohibition. I have no idea what his actual connection to manufacturing, selling, or consuming beer or liquor was during that time. What I do know is all sources indicate he was a party animal who smoked and drank to his grave. I don't find it hard to believe he learned about beer and liquor making during prohibition, or before it. When he died, his small property in the cascades had been found to contain a 50-gallon open-air brewing setup made of converted steel trash bins, he owned a 10-gallon pot still, and had 20 gallons of moonshine stored at his time of death. Therefore, I am thrilled to share this potentially authentic prohibition-era beer recipe!  If no one can read this I'll try to copy it into plain text This seems simple enough, honestly. I could be a fuckin' nerd and do some book learning about hop use in the pacific northwest during the early 1900's, but no matter what I'm putting in, 3 oz are getting boiled for 2 hours. The rest of this recipe actually seems very straightforward. Beersmith is calculating this to be 3.3% ABV, 1.046 OG, and 111 IBU. I don't believe that last calculation for a second, but it's funny to imagine. I can't see this beer not being hilariously, disgustingly bitter. I also can't see this many hops getting wasted on moonshine wort. Does anyone have input? DISCO KING fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Feb 21, 2018 |
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Feb 21, 2018 01:47
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Napoleon Bonaparty posted:111 IBU. I don't think that could be correct. I think it's pretty likely at that time that he used wild hops or old hops or something. And even if he somehow got hold of fresh hops of known provenance, they were likely to be much lower in alpha acid than the modern varieties have gotten. If I were trying anything like this, I'd use something European and probably 3-4% AA. 3-ish ounces of low alpha hops in five gallons of mild beer is no big deal. And isn't there something about needing some extract in the boil for the alpha acid to isomerize properly?
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Feb 21, 2018 02:05
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Jo3sh posted:I don't think that could be correct. I think it's pretty likely at that time that he used wild hops or old hops or something. And even if he somehow got hold of fresh hops of known provenance, they were likely to be much lower in alpha acid than the modern varieties have gotten. If I were trying anything like this, I'd use something European and probably 3-4% AA. 3-ish ounces of low alpha hops in five gallons of mild beer is no big deal. I don’t remember about proper isomerization, but making hop teas was very common and is still done in some places. Chances are good you’d have been using something really low in AA, but there used to be plenty of wild hops in the PNW so it wouldn’t surprise me either way. I’m mostly interested in that bit about malt extract. I didn’t know there was malt extract that long ago, so I started looking. It seems to have been made as a baking ingredient for bread during the depression, and I’ve seen old adverts for hopped LME from the 1920s made by LA Brewing Co. It’s really fascinating.
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Feb 21, 2018 05:44
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Jhet posted:I don’t remember about proper isomerization, but making hop teas was very common and is still done in some places. Chances are good you’d have been using something really low in AA, but there used to be plenty of wild hops in the PNW so it wouldn’t surprise me either way. Especially during prohibition, lots of breweries changed over to malt extract production. Frequently with a label saying "Whatever you do, DO NOT dissolve this in water, add baking yeast, and put in a cupboard for a few weeks. That would make beer. Which you would never do. Because it's illegal. The beer you could make."
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Feb 21, 2018 14:38
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Nth Doctor posted:Especially during prohibition, lots of breweries changed over to malt extract production. Frequently with a label saying "Whatever you do, DO NOT dissolve this in water, add baking yeast, and put in a cupboard for a few weeks. That would make beer. Which you would never do. Because it's illegal. The beer you could make." It makes complete sense that they would do this, and I had just never thought of it before. My favorite one so far was the “Bohemian” malt extract, which was hopped with noble hops... for bread of course. I’m a little loathe to try to make it, as it’s probably going to be sort of sweet from under-attenuation. I am planning on making a Kentucky Common next, and also some sort of Heather Ale. I don’t have any Gale to use, so I’ll hop it gently, and I’ll probably add a pound of honey as well. Both of those styles have some historical significance, and turn out well. But I’m also using modern yeast and not bread yeast. Mostly because it tastes better. I’m just waiting for this Saison with 3724 to actual finish. It’s second gen but still stalled. Maybe next time it will finish quicker. It fermented near 80 F, but no luck. I’m going to start tossing in Brett in these this summer because why not.
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Feb 21, 2018 16:46
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Just the other day, being short on beer in my keezer, I decided to re-chill and serve an NEIPA I made like 6 months ago that turned out really bad. I'm still confused on what happened to it, but I had 2 similar-but-ultimately-different beers made close together that shared only one ingredient - Farmhouse Brewing Supply's Hop Blend #15. I ended up drinking most of the other beer, even though it wasn't great, but the NEIPA was really bad in a way I can't describe, like a wild yeast phenol dialed up to 11. Anyway, after sitting for 6+ months, nothing has changed. The beer is undrinkable and is going on my extremely short list of drainpours. Is it possible that I picked up a significant amount of wild yeast on the hops? The only thing I can think of if that there was latent yeast on the dry hop additions (which were huge, in a 8oz range, total) which out-competed the pitched yeast - London Ale III. For reference, the other bad-but-drinkable beer shared the hops (in smaller amounts) and used US-05.
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Feb 22, 2018 16:26
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robotsinmyhead posted:Just the other day, being short on beer in my keezer, I decided to re-chill and serve an NEIPA I made like 6 months ago that turned out really bad. I'm still confused on what happened to it, but I had 2 similar-but-ultimately-different beers made close together that shared only one ingredient - Farmhouse Brewing Supply's Hop Blend #15. It was probably just a bad blend of hops. It seems unlikely that any yeast that may have been available on the hops would out compete a full pitch of yeast, and if it tasted not great in the normal turn around time for a NEIPA style, then it's very unlikely to be any yeast issues. I don't remember what hops you said were in the blend, but it seems likely to me that it contained a hop that didn't like how you were treating it or it was a bittering hop that just doesn't taste great when used for flavor/aroma/dry hop additions. They don't have their blend composition on their website or blog still, so I can't speculate more than that. Has the flavor of it changed much at all from when you first had it? If it changed a lot then I'd be more likely to think it was a yeast/bacteria issue, but if it's still tasting that weird flavor then it was probably the hops? Did you ever use it to brew a "Single Hop" pale ale or something? I know you brewed two beers with it, but I can't find what you said the other was. As an afterthought, those other blends they have on their website are very busy. 11 different varieties in #14. I wouldn't blend bittering and flavor hops like that except in the kettle.
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Feb 22, 2018 17:07
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Jhet posted:It was probably just a bad blend of hops. It seems unlikely that any yeast that may have been available on the hops would out compete a full pitch of yeast, and if it tasted not great in the normal turn around time for a NEIPA style, then it's very unlikely to be any yeast issues. I don't remember what hops you said were in the blend, but it seems likely to me that it contained a hop that didn't like how you were treating it or it was a bittering hop that just doesn't taste great when used for flavor/aroma/dry hop additions. They don't have their blend composition on their website or blog still, so I can't speculate more than that. Has the flavor of it changed much at all from when you first had it? If it changed a lot then I'd be more likely to think it was a yeast/bacteria issue, but if it's still tasting that weird flavor then it was probably the hops? It's been a little while, so forgive the fuzziness, but if I remember correctly it was almost entirely Southern Hemisphere dual-purpose hops. It was #14, by the way. The other beer I brewed was a standard dry-hopped IPA single-hopped with this blend - 50-60IBU, 30min boil addition, whirlpool, dryhop at 1oz, 1oz, 2oz (or something to that effect) I actually emailed Farmhouse about it and they sent me a pretty flippant reply to the effect of "everyone else loves it, no problems, sorry about your luck."
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Feb 22, 2018 17:14
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robotsinmyhead posted:It's been a little while, so forgive the fuzziness, but if I remember correctly it was almost entirely Southern Hemisphere dual-purpose hops. It was #14, by the way. The other beer I brewed was a standard dry-hopped IPA single-hopped with this blend - 50-60IBU, 30min boil addition, whirlpool, dryhop at 1oz, 1oz, 2oz (or something to that effect) Everybody is a lot of people. That would be enough to put me off ever buying from them again. I also find it ironic that they've used Orbit in their blend, considering that Orbit is also a blend and there are some Bittering hops too. Really, they just seem to have taken all the popular NZ/Aus hops and mixed them together. 0/5 would not buy. I'm sure many of those hops taste wonderful blended together in the kettle in a good order. I'm going to suggest that you got a bum bag from the mix and there's really nothing you can do about it except dump it.
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Feb 22, 2018 18:23
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Jhet posted:Everybody is a lot of people. That would be enough to put me off ever buying from them again. My last order was from Yakima and I'm pretty happy with them. Farmhouse was one of the cheapest vendors I've found, but that one order was enough to keep me away. I'm still tempted to make a hop tea or something to that effect and see if I can pull that flavor from it. I have like 5oz of the poo poo left.
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Feb 22, 2018 19:32
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I've been ordering a lot from Yakima lately and have yet to have any issues with their stuff. The latest thing I ordered was a couple hundred grams of CO2 hop extract, which I'm going to portion into 5mL syringes as soon as the syringes show up.
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Feb 22, 2018 22:04
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robotsinmyhead posted:My last order was from Yakima and I'm pretty happy with them. Farmhouse was one of the cheapest vendors I've found, but that one order was enough to keep me away. I'm still tempted to make a hop tea or something to that effect and see if I can pull that flavor from it. I have like 5oz of the poo poo left. Yakima Valley Hops is my go-to for hops. They get it straight from the processor which is easy because they're just across town. And considering they're in the middle of hop country, you can't really go wrong. I'm always very happy with the product they sell, and it helps that I don't mind buying in 8/16oz packages.
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Feb 22, 2018 23:36
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