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edit: pretty sure google is working so disregard those questions Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Sep 9, 2017 |
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Sep 9, 2017 17:12
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I've bought all my bushings from Energy suspension. They have a YMM product finder on their site too
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Sep 9, 2017 18:01
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So...having never owned a 4x4 IDI I wouldn't know, but if changing the pivot bearings on a TTB is anything like the ones on the standard 2WD twin I-beam, it can get really ugly, so have a good shop on call to help if needed. The ones on my '84 required an 80-ton press and a dozen rounds of blue wrench/ air hammer but then again, the shop I brought the axles to said they had never seen anyone replace those on a 2wd so maybe it was just me? (Tried to replace the kingpins on that truck also, but would. not. budge. All the beating freed them up enough to work again so re-installed and went another 50K on them) Any way, good luck and may your diesel injection always be indirect!
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Sep 9, 2017 19:59
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How much more worth it would it be to swap out my leaf springs to coil springs? And if I'm going that far, would it just be worth it to swap to a solid front axle?
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Sep 9, 2017 20:00
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Admiral Bosch posted:How much more worth it would it be to swap out my leaf springs to coil springs? And if I'm going that far, would it just be worth it to swap to a solid front axle? http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/29-solid-axle-swaps/162366-05-super-duty-dana-60-coil-spring-sas.html The frames are pretty much all roughly the same unless you have a cab/chassis. E: seatbelts ordered. exhaust installed:      Imo it's quieter. I'll get video later. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Sep 10, 2017 |
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Sep 9, 2017 20:09
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You can hold a conversation on the highway with the windows open. gently caress yes. exhaust gasses clear the rear axle and associated danglies via IR temp probe testing. exhaust noises: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxnvCGOe-IE    Fresh rear shocks. all that is left is the shackle end bushings. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Sep 12, 2017 |
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Sep 12, 2017 22:04
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That sounds fuckin badass, nice job
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Sep 13, 2017 01:39
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You're going to make that thing so drat nice you're not going to want to get rid of it.
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Sep 13, 2017 01:44
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I'd never heard of a twin traction beam before so I went and looked it up What in the gently caress? Why, Ford, why? How is this better or cheaper than a regular IS setup? Some people seem to have made it work for them though, doesn't look easy or cheap though   Whee!
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Sep 16, 2017 09:13
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TTB has relevancy in trophy truck/baja. it also is a nice way to get an econoline into 4wd and retain some ride quality.  I have a thing for 4wd econolines Tim: that's just a bone stock duramax muffler and even some chunkage of the pipe.   Anything worth doing once is worth doing 2-3-4-5-6-7-8 times. God drat I hate slip yokes. This seal pulled out a couple weeks ago after hitting some massive loving hole on California's bullshit roads so I'm not at all surprised I get to revisit this. I may split the Tcase and inspect the guts and do the pump-mod too. I managed to pick up some bad fuel so i'm ordering filters and some stanadyne pump honey. No shipment info on my seatbelts yet. Tuesday I'm flying to Denver to pick up a new bike. I'm not doing anymore fixes/parts ordering until I'm back from that. Fixed the D-errrr  weld a stud to the broken stud. whatever, it works. (spouse broke a tap off in it, and saltrust, and gently caress this bike it's a household beater) cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Sep 21, 2017 |
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Sep 21, 2017 00:39
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I've never disliked slip yokes until my Jeep. The rear output shaft slip yoke just won't loving seal up properly, it keeps seeping just enough to leave a giant stain all around it on the underbody just like yours. Replaced it twice, I'll probably need to do it again now that I lifted it a bit further and it'll be riding on a different part of the yoke.
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Sep 21, 2017 00:48
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cursedshitbox posted:TTB has relevancy in trophy truck/baja. it also is a nice way to get an econoline into 4wd and retain some ride quality. That's loving perfect.
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Sep 21, 2017 03:41
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I took mine in to get looked over and holy god in heaven. Either I do it myself and maybe gently caress something up or I pay 3500 dollars to have a ton of poo poo replaced. They want to replace front upper and lower ball joints + ball joint alignment, front spring and shackle bushings, all the TTB axle u-joints, and even though they didn't say anything about shock absorbers, I'm almost certain they need replacing. I don't know how to fix any of that myself, although I could certainly try, but I don't even know where to begin with what tools I would need to get. I'm going to take it for a second opinion/price quote. How bad does that sound? Am I probably getting fleeced?
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Sep 23, 2017 17:49
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Goddamnit CSB, every time I read this thread I end up spending an hour on kijiji eyefucking bricknoses.
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Sep 23, 2017 18:32
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Admiral Bosch posted:I took mine in to get looked over and holy god in heaven. Either I do it myself and maybe gently caress something up or I pay 3500 dollars to have a ton of poo poo replaced. They want to replace front upper and lower ball joints + ball joint alignment, front spring and shackle bushings, all the TTB axle u-joints, and even though they didn't say anything about shock absorbers, I'm almost certain they need replacing. I don't know how to fix any of that myself, although I could certainly try, but I don't even know where to begin with what tools I would need to get. I'm going to take it for a second opinion/price quote. How bad does that sound? Am I probably getting fleeced? Those are PFO prices. (please gently caress off). You can also split this into phases: ball joints, bushes/shocks, u-joints. I went slightly off this order but still replaced the same items. IOwnCalculus posted:I've never disliked slip yokes until my Jeep. The rear output shaft slip yoke just won't loving seal up properly, it keeps seeping just enough to leave a giant stain all around it on the underbody just like yours. Replaced it twice, I'll probably need to do it again now that I lifted it a bit further and it'll be riding on a different part of the yoke. This has been my experience too. It seems to be a larger chore than I want right now to delete it, so I guess It'll just get "fixed" for another year. Fermented Tinal posted:Goddamnit CSB, every time I read this thread I end up spending an hour on kijiji eyefucking bricknoses. You know what to do.
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Sep 24, 2017 03:13
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You see the F450 I linked in slack?
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Sep 24, 2017 05:23
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Fermented Tinal posted:You see the F450 I linked in slack? Yeah it went to my gmail. If he bites for 2k go for it. It's a psd which is also nice. you get some cool ZF PTO poo poo too...and if you *ever* part it, bug me.
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Sep 24, 2017 05:33
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 Hey cool this looks like a $20 starter relay instead of a $90 "glow plug controller"  It is! (the coil polarity is reversed!)
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Sep 25, 2017 02:30
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cursedshitbox posted:Hey cool this looks like a $20 starter relay instead of a $90 "glow plug controller" Nice idea, how many amps do your glow plugs actually pull? Wouldn't a 70A normal 4 pin relay do the job?
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Sep 26, 2017 09:14
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Tomarse posted:Nice idea, how many amps do your glow plugs actually pull? Wouldn't a 70A normal 4 pin relay do the job? 20A per. 160A total. It's on 4GA wire right now which is marginal for the task but better than the bullshit ford shipped this with. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Sep 26, 2017 |
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Sep 26, 2017 10:06
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cursedshitbox posted:
That's exactly what I did to my GP controller...except I went manual with it, just left the controller in place but with the "control board" disconnected. The factory placement for the turbo GP controller is slightly less scary when working (if you are a tool-dropping spazz like me) and worth swapping to if you ever find some turbo parts. Just make sure you use a decent quality relay, I have had a cheapo stick "on". Which is "not fun" unless your turn-ons include swollen tips (GPs, that is)
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Sep 27, 2017 04:36
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digger_smolkin posted:Just make sure you use a decent quality relay, I have had a cheapo stick "on". Which is "not fun" unless your turn-ons include swollen tips (GPs, that is) Thanks for the nightmare fuel, dick.  gently caress yea new metal door pulls. Certified goon proof too. (I broke the driverside doing door panel clips 3 days ago...)   Old and busted  New hotness. They loving rock.
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Oct 6, 2017 03:50
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cursedshitbox posted:
Oh please tell me where you got those, I've broken the drivers side handle in my 94 a half dozen times.
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Oct 7, 2017 21:46
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Dennis Carpenter is always great for Ford truck trim bits. E: the ones I posted look to be glass impregnated nylon, but all of the DC stuff I've ever bought has been of better quality than the oem parts. spookykid fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Oct 7, 2017 |
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Oct 7, 2017 22:26
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Poisonlizard posted:Oh please tell me where you got those, I've broken the drivers side handle in my 94 a half dozen times. amazon for the passenger side. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N370I6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Driver: https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-88289N-Interior-Handle-Upgraded/dp/B0160D7NTG/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RBDFKNC9RKDAAF5HWTHP E: I was able to install mine without removing the door panel. YMMV. Door panel clips incase you do remove the door: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NKU13S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Oct 7, 2017 22:46
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cursedshitbox posted:amazon for the passenger side. Sweet, Thank you Sir! And yea, after the 2nd or 3rd time I discovered I could swap it in about 10 minutes without pulling the panel all the way off. I currently have a spare Dorman plastic ones in the center console along with all the tools needed to swap it. I've lubed the locking mechanism and everything else I could think of, but I'm thinking it's time to swap the stupid cable as well.
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Oct 8, 2017 01:02
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 anti-archives bump. I've been back-burner brewing some new glowplug control solutions...maybe after thanksgiving holiday.
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Nov 19, 2017 22:01
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cursedshitbox posted:
That Safeway is super nice, I love the roof parking. It’s way better than the one that used to be there before with its crappy half-lot. I’ve seen tons of cool cars in that lot too, including a Morgan 3-wheeler of all things. Where would they even put groceries? Also starting to feel like you live disturbingly close to me if that’s also your main Safeway...
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Nov 20, 2017 10:14
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oh hi 2018. Drivers mirror glass fell out last week.  I've ordered parts to take care of the glowplug system, right now it's turning ~400W into waste heat and being a royal pain to start. Rear pinion nut is loose again, Nord-Lock ordered. Power steering reservoir and return hoses are leaking, parts are easy to get locally. I'm probably gonna do that this weekend. There's an extensive list being worked up for 2018 to adjust the truck for future uses.
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Jan 17, 2018 21:54
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The mirror is just a reflection of the shithouse that was 2017
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Jan 18, 2018 00:51
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CommieGIR posted:The mirror is just a reflection of the shithouse that was 2016 Rewired glowplugs this afternoon. add the wipermotor to the list of poo poo to investigate.  factory harness on the left, 2016 fixes on the right.  Here's where most of the heat was going.   bits of the factory gp harness. The factory connector has seen better days. I plan on replacing this with something more...weatherproof.  new old hotness. engine sensors, pump functions retained. glowplug wiring is all new. I've relocated the timer/solenoid to the passenger fender and altered how it works. the timer now gets its power from the thermoswitch in the passenger head. above 125F no glowplugs will cycle during key on engine off event. Also deleted the "water in fuel" controller that was located by the thermoswitch.  anything related to the high-ampere side of the glowplug system has yellow heatshrink. 
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Jan 21, 2018 02:44
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 nord-lock for the pinion nut. in ~93 ford changed the 10.25 to a long pinion that corrects this annoying problem. PAS pump reseal, return line replacement, and flush:  Chassis anti-rust system is excessively oiling the chassis causing waste.  out with the old. No photos beyond here since it's messy.  done! It's still too quiet for a Ford PAS system. 2nd glow, just after buttoning the PAS system back up and hand bleeding it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJP3BR3DtMw
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Jan 21, 2018 23:29
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Ahh, that all too familiar bluetooth bootup sound! Well done on the power steering cleanup!
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Jan 21, 2018 23:32
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You're breaking the truck by working on it, read the drat label! Circled in red. You're supposed to cut the hood release cable and close it forever with a label like that. 
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Jan 22, 2018 15:30
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Hey shitbox, can I ask some more questions? I'm having issues with the loving glow plug controller setup. Last year when I had the clicking issues, just replacing the plugs themselves solved it, but they cropped up again almost a year to the day, so I did it again, but I still got clicking. So, I replaced just the relay, and that... sort of fixed it. It'll cycle for about 5-10 seconds, then the WTS light shuts off and it starts clicking again. Turning the key off and on again doesn't do it again, it just goes straight to clicking for the whole cycle. Any advice short of buying a multimeter and/or just replacing the whole controller?
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Mar 2, 2018 02:00
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buy a digital multimeter. even a harborfreight one will help immensely. They'll short-cycle like a motherfucker if any of the grounds or wiring is going to poo poo. 2. the controller monitors the total resistance of the glowplugs to determine the temperature. 3. double-glowing will result in different glowplug cycle times due to the aforementioned resistance. the WTS lamp does not indicate the on/off state of the glowplugs itself, it'll continue to cycle them on/off a couple times (iirc mine is 3) after the WTS lamp goes out to assist with starting and initial cold-start. if you cycle the plugs a few times, not so much. controller usually dies all together or just clicks rapidly. The relay in mine has always been noisy. The fuel pump drowns it out. This pertains to 87 6.9s and 88-94 7.3s. If yours is an earlier 6.9, convert it to the later system or go manual.
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Mar 2, 2018 03:08
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Mine's an 89 7.3. Somehow this happened to my relay, which is why I thought this was just the problem in the first place. All my cables look clean and intact, with the possible exception of the single yellow cable on the second large terminal. That one looked a little worn; some soldering could do it but I don't have any way of doing that, so I wrapped it in electrical tape and hoped for the best. Everything else is good, including the ground. Is it possible the kind of glowplugs I got would make a difference? I bought these mostly because it was cheap as a set, but they were also advertised as being hotter for cold weather, and I've been having trouble doing cold weather starts this winter. https://www.amazon.com/Wellman-1988...TQWWVBP7YAM186B
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Mar 2, 2018 04:16
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holyfuck... you didnt... (motorcraft) Beru zd9 only
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Mar 2, 2018 04:37
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cursedshitbox posted:holyfuck... you didnt... Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics agrees.
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Mar 2, 2018 04:47
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cursedshitbox posted:holyfuck... you didnt... 
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Mar 2, 2018 05:02
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