Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!
I used to be all "why doesn't everyone keep their shoes on all the time" but then I got into downsizing and now it seems loving crazy

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004

Been bouldering for about 5 years and for quite a while seemed like I was plateaud at v5. Actually started doing real training specifically core and hang boarding and just sent my first v7 this past weekend (Morning Dove White in Bishop), and quite close on a few others. I love rock climbing again!

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED
I just started climbing and I'm really loving it, but how do you do this as an old (early thirties) without owning yourself? After my third day of it:

- Almost a week since my last climb, I have constant dull pain and a tiny bit of swelling in the proximal knuckle of my middle finger
- I pulled something, probably my brachioradialis? This is an old injury I re-aggravated. Immediately after it happened I had pain above and below my elbow, and the next day it was just below my elbow, it's gone at rest now but I'm still not ready to load it. It started as soon as I began climbing with my arms straight is suggested, but I know from lifting that I'm prone to this injury when using my left arm to pull anything when when my elbow is past 150 degrees or so
- My toes hurt from being curled all the time

I did warm ups, though I will probably be spending more time on them in future.

Is there anything other than the usual RICER I can do now? Do I just have to accept that my body can't do this sport?

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007

Kasumeat posted:

I just started climbing and I'm really loving it, but how do you do this as an old (early thirties) without owning yourself? After my third day of it:

- Almost a week since my last climb, I have constant dull pain and a tiny bit of swelling in the proximal knuckle of my middle finger
- I pulled something, probably my brachioradialis? This is an old injury I re-aggravated. Immediately after it happened I had pain above and below my elbow, and the next day it was just below my elbow, it's gone at rest now but I'm still not ready to load it. It started as soon as I began climbing with my arms straight is suggested, but I know from lifting that I'm prone to this injury when using my left arm to pull anything when when my elbow is past 150 degrees or so
- My toes hurt from being curled all the time

I did warm ups, though I will probably be spending more time on them in future.

Is there anything other than the usual RICER I can do now? Do I just have to accept that my body can't do this sport?

The toe pain is normal. Taking your shoes off while resting helps.

As for the rest, warm up more, stretch more (before and after), make sure to do exercises that counter regular climbing muscles (e.g. I make sure to do "push" exercises like bench press and shoulder press once or twice a week to balance things out, since climbing uses "pull" muscles a lot more), make sure to rest 48 hours between sessions (at least when starting out), and eat properly.

I don't have specific recommendations on your injury. Some people climb through them, although that is probably not wise until you gain experience and learn what injuries are trivial and can be ignored, and what injuries require rest and/or medical attention.

ManMythLegend
Aug 18, 2003

I don't believe in anything, I'm just here for the violence.

Kasumeat posted:

I just started climbing and I'm really loving it, but how do you do this as an old (early thirties) without owning yourself? After my third day of it:

- Almost a week since my last climb, I have constant dull pain and a tiny bit of swelling in the proximal knuckle of my middle finger
- I pulled something, probably my brachioradialis? This is an old injury I re-aggravated. Immediately after it happened I had pain above and below my elbow, and the next day it was just below my elbow, it's gone at rest now but I'm still not ready to load it. It started as soon as I began climbing with my arms straight is suggested, but I know from lifting that I'm prone to this injury when using my left arm to pull anything when when my elbow is past 150 degrees or so
- My toes hurt from being curled all the time

I did warm ups, though I will probably be spending more time on them in future.

Is there anything other than the usual RICER I can do now? Do I just have to accept that my body can't do this sport?

I'm almost 36 and while I have my bad days, keeping from self owning is a combination of proper stretching and warm ups on the day of climbing.

I'm not sure what your general physical condition is but at our age it's also important that you are generally fit enough to do it. Younger folks' bodies can still recover easily from pushing too hard too fast. Us old timers need to make sure out bodies can handle the stress.

ManMythLegend fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Mar 2, 2018

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!

Kasumeat posted:

I just started climbing and I'm really loving it, but how do you do this as an old (early thirties) without owning yourself? After my third day of it:

- Almost a week since my last climb, I have constant dull pain and a tiny bit of swelling in the proximal knuckle of my middle finger
- I pulled something, probably my brachioradialis? This is an old injury I re-aggravated. Immediately after it happened I had pain above and below my elbow, and the next day it was just below my elbow, it's gone at rest now but I'm still not ready to load it. It started as soon as I began climbing with my arms straight is suggested, but I know from lifting that I'm prone to this injury when using my left arm to pull anything when when my elbow is past 150 degrees or so
- My toes hurt from being curled all the time

I did warm ups, though I will probably be spending more time on them in future.

Is there anything other than the usual RICER I can do now? Do I just have to accept that my body can't do this sport?

I'm the same age as you and most of the people I climb with are older than I am, you just get used to being broken all the time I guess :v:

If you're a total beginner it can be difficult to know where to start but the best advice to managing injuries is to avoid getting injured in the first place - spend a good amount of time warming up (both on and off the wall) and concentrate on improving your technique and endurance over strength. Climb non-overhanging routes with forgiving holds but which force a variety of different moves, or climb routes which are well within your ability, but climb them 2 or 3 times in succession (and/or downclimb). If you're already strong from lifting or doing other sport, it's really easy to bust up your fingers trying to lever your existing arm strength through a small or crimpy hold, especially if you're just trying to brute force moves to compensate for poor technique, so it pays to be careful.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

ManMythLegend posted:

I'm almost 36 and while I have my bad days, keeping from self owning is a combination of proper stretching and warm ups on the day of climbing.

I'm not sure what your general physical condition is but at our age it's also important that you are generally fit enough to do it. Younger folks' bodies can still recover easily from pushing too hard too fast. Us old timers need to make sure out bodies can handle the stress.

A lot of good advice so far but I wanted to highlight this. I didn't start climbing until 29 (34 now) and I really needed to pace myself when I started. Once a week for the first month, every 5 days for the second and drop a day between workouts each month until you figure out what you can handle.

I feel like stretching as often as possible was really important to avoid breaking down in the past couple years. If I'm watching TV for a while, I'm probably sitting on the floor stretching for at least an hour of it. At least helps me to avoid muscle pulls and general soreness.

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED
Thanks all, everything you're saying makes a lot of sense.

RabidWeasel posted:

If you're already strong from lifting or doing other sport, it's really easy to bust up your fingers trying to lever your existing arm strength through a small or crimpy hold, especially if you're just trying to brute force moves to compensate for poor technique, so it pays to be careful.

Yeah this is probably the case. My first day of climbing, I was able to go for about two hours with minimal rest (using auto belayers, so no forced breaks to belay) and climbing entirely with bent arms, which in retrospect is probably pushing it. My arms were fine, but my fingers weren't happy.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

I'm just a total piece of shit and I'm not sure why I keep posting on this site. Christ, I have spent years with idiots giving me bad advice about online dating and haven't noticed that the thread I'm in selects for people that can't talk to people worth a damn.
my fingers took like 1-1.5 years before the pain you're describing went away. i just made sure to keep climbing and take it easy on whichever finger was being an rear end in a top hat that day (if i could), and take days off if it was especially bad. im fairly heavy for a climber (205), so i figure my tendons just needed more time to strengthen and catch up to my arms/back

Impromptu Flip
Aug 30, 2008
Couple of newbie questions:

1) Are there template gym workouts for climbing? I've been lifting a few years and found bouldering a month ago. I lift three times a week and I'm looking at switching things around to climb twice a week; I want to keep some kind of 2-day gym routine as well as I can't make it to a wall more than twice. Maybe adding gymnastic progressions or other bodyweight stuff would make sense

2) There are some places that sell shoes nearby, so I'll go and try a bunch on when I can. Is there anything specific to look for or avoid in brands etc?

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED
Was able to go back yesterday, and no issues! Finger pain is still there but faint, and I didn't re-aggravate my arm injury—I think it was actually caused by catching a slip, rather than climbing with straight arms. Gym was nearly empty, late on a Sunday night, so it was fun to be able to fool around on routes I had no chance of completing but offered exposure to different obstacles I was unfamiliar with. Problems with lots of volumes are super-fun, relying way less on grip strength (which is still super-weak for me) and more on technique. I solved my first v2, and more importantly, I feel like I can climb again soon. :toot:

Blackmage Yapo
Mar 27, 2008

Odin You Sad I Have
All The SPP
Just started climbing a month ago and had a few questions for you guys. My belay buddy is way better/more experienced but I've already bugged him a lot about gear.

I keep losing skin/getting flappers on only my pinkies, but never any other fingers. Am I just grabbing stuff really funky? Is it because I'm really not using chalk? Are my residual callouses on the other fingers just better than I realized?

Also all the cool pics earlier in the thread have convinced me I need to go outside. Anybody got any good online references for climbing in the Ozarks?

ConspicuousEvil
Feb 29, 2004
Pillbug

Blackmage Yapo posted:

Just started climbing a month ago and had a few questions for you guys. My belay buddy is way better/more experienced but I've already bugged him a lot about gear.

I keep losing skin/getting flappers on only my pinkies, but never any other fingers. Am I just grabbing stuff really funky? Is it because I'm really not using chalk? Are my residual callouses on the other fingers just better than I realized?

Also all the cool pics earlier in the thread have convinced me I need to go outside. Anybody got any good online references for climbing in the Ozarks?

1. Flappers occur because your hand slides on the hold. On jugs especially, the pinky is going to start sliding first. Use chalk, as much as you want, it's cheap. I've been climbing for a long time and chalk up before every attempt on every boulder, nothing wrong with it.
2. Mountain Project is a good online resource and I used it a bunch when first getting started. In many cases a guidebook is the best place to start if you've never been to an area. I highly recommend going with someone who knows the area, though, for MANY reasons.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005
Fallen Rib

GenericRX posted:

Any ice climbers in here? I went to the Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest this year and I think I’m hooked, y’all.

Hooky stuff:



The thing I like about climbing is that you can take it as far as a plywood and plastic wall in your neighbour's garage or as far as the Nordwand, either way you'll still have a great time.
Every incremental step opens up new and wonderful terrain.

Unsinkabear
Jun 8, 2013

Ensign, raise the beariscope.





Impromptu Flip posted:

Couple of newbie questions:

1) Are there template gym workouts for climbing? I've been lifting a few years and found bouldering a month ago. I lift three times a week and I'm looking at switching things around to climb twice a week; I want to keep some kind of 2-day gym routine as well as I can't make it to a wall more than twice. Maybe adding gymnastic progressions or other bodyweight stuff would make sense

2) There are some places that sell shoes nearby, so I'll go and try a bunch on when I can. Is there anything specific to look for or avoid in brands etc?

Seconding these newbie questions. I'm 29 and around 200 lbs, and starting to get into bouldering after an inactive january and february that left me with noodle arms. I'm really struggling to do anything except the easiest climbs, and don't know where to start improving my technique and strength.

Also: I got size 12 shoes because I have extra-wide size 11 hobbit feet, and I couldn't find any brands that catered to that. How can I tell if these are too large? Opinions on shoe tightness seem to vary, but I never feel like I need to take them off.

Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Mar 7, 2018

Baronash
Feb 29, 2012

So what do you want to be called?
Your shoes should fit snugly without any gaps between your foot and the shoe. The toebox should cause your toes to curl a bit, and you shouldn't be able to move them around very much. Not having that range of motion is pretty important, as it means that when your foot is on a microscopic chip, the strain is on the entire foot rather than just your big toe or whatever.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Blackmage Yapo posted:

Also all the cool pics earlier in the thread have convinced me I need to go outside. Anybody got any good online references for climbing in the Ozarks?

Arkansas is your best bet! Get down to the Ranch!

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Your Loyal Vizier posted:

Seconding these newbie questions. I'm 29 and around 200 lbs, and starting to get into bouldering after an inactive january and february that left me with noodle arms. I'm really struggling to do anything except the easiest climbs, and don't know where to start improving my technique and strength.

Also: I got size 12 shoes because I have extra-wide size 11 hobbit feet, and I couldn't find any brands that catered to that. How can I tell if these are too large? Opinions on shoe tightness seem to vary, but I never feel like I need to take them off.

Most traditional workout sequences aren't great for climbing. Focus on back, biceps forearms, core, and shoulders.

If you're that new, climbing itself will make you better, not strength training. Most climbs can be done with Better technique. I would suggest looking back a couple of pages, there were more comprehensive posts for the same subject.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007

Ubiquitus posted:

Most traditional workout sequences aren't great for climbing. Focus on back, biceps forearms, core, and shoulders.

Counterpoint: you are supposed to use your lower body a lot more when you climb. Literally every climbing video advises against pulling yourself up (especially if you are a guy, since guys naturally have stronger upper bodies and their first tendency is to power through moves using that strength), and emphasizes pushing with legs instead.

Personally, I find that having strong quads, hamstrings and glutes helps me a lot more. I've been climbing for less than a year though so it's possible I'm just talking out of my rear end. :D

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

I'm just a total piece of shit and I'm not sure why I keep posting on this site. Christ, I have spent years with idiots giving me bad advice about online dating and haven't noticed that the thread I'm in selects for people that can't talk to people worth a damn.
in ~two years, i dont think ive seen a single climber with big legs in my gym that is anything remotely approaching good at climbing

i have large strong legs and it took forever for me to catch up to my featherweight completely non-athletic friend

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012

enraged_camel posted:

Personally, I find that having strong quads, hamstrings and glutes helps me a lot more. I've been climbing for less than a year though so it's possible I'm just talking out of my rear end. :D

You are. All big legs will do for you in climbing is weigh you down, and anyone who says otherwise is just trying to kid themselves.

That's not to say having a strong posterior chain from squats and deadlifts won't help you toe in on small footholds on overhanging routes, but you'll still be relatively weaker than the 50kg kid with stick legs.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007

I'm not talking about big legs, I'm talking about strong legs.

Yes, low weight is probably the best, but weight is somewhat orthogonal to this. Given the choice between upper body strength and lower body strength, you're probably better off going for an equal distribution, as opposed to focusing on upper body.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012

The limiting factor for a move in climbing is going to be strength in your legs less than 1% of the time. Almost everyone who can climb at all has the requisite strength in their legs to stand up through a movement, it's just knowing to do it that holds beginners back.

If there was a single exercise involving legs I'd recommend to climbers it'd be a deadlift, but I'm still not convinced the gains in posterior chain strength would offset the gain in lower body mass, no matter how small. There are coaches who advocate barbell work, but if you ask most top level climbers how much lower body strength work they do, it's going to be minimal.

ManMythLegend
Aug 18, 2003

I don't believe in anything, I'm just here for the violence.
I think there is value from a climbing perspective for squats both for building leg strength but also working core stabilization through the movement.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

I'm not saying forego leg work altogether, but sparingly at best. If you go hard on leg day, it should be once every two weeks, really. Maaaaayyyybe once a week if its a super light workout focusing on different isolated muscle groups

interrodactyl
Nov 8, 2011

you have no dignity
If you can do 5 pistol squats, your legs are strong enough for climbing and it's likely not the limiting factor. And coincidentally, you have to do similar movements a lot in climbing!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Just climb guys... until you are getting into 12s...just climb...

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Also that 'leg strength' that you feel is keeping you on the wall? Its actually core. You don't need your legs for climbing, sorry to break the fantasy

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

spwrozek posted:

Just climb guys... until you are getting into 12s...just climb...

^^^ This. If you are in decent shape, taller than 5'6" or so, and climb 3+ days a week, somewhere around 5.12a will probably be your ceiling without dedicated climbing specific training. At that point you will benefit more from hangboard work than anything else.

(This is an oversimplification. You need to identify your specific problem that holds you back when you hit a ceiling. It will probably be one of: mental, endurance, or strength. Read Horst's training for climbing book.)

Ideal climber physique is to be as light as possible with a strong core and upper body pulling muscles. Is that healthy from a general perspective? No, not really. Will you crush? Yes, yes you will.

If you want to go to the gym to get strong, do it. It's good for you, but packing on thighs and pects will hurt your climbing. Don't fool yourself thinking orherwise.

Also this is all with respect to chasing a grade while sport climbing. Things are different for alpine climbing where overall physique can make a big difference for difficult approaches.

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED
Can't speak for everyone, but as a beginner, I can't imagine climbing 3 days per week, my fingers couldn't take that. I can train core 3 days/week and back 2 days/week no problem though, so why not if it'll improve my climbing?

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

SKELITON_BRINGING_U_ON.GIF

Kasumeat posted:

Can't speak for everyone, but as a beginner, I can't imagine climbing 3 days per week, my fingers couldn't take that. I can train core 3 days/week and back 2 days/week no problem though, so why not if it'll improve my climbing?

I started in November and I'm now going for an hour to an hour and a half three times a week. Took a while to get where I could go that often.

I finally sent my first V3 today

pr0zac
Jan 18, 2004

~*lukecagefan69*~


Pillbug
Meme posting in the climbing thread.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)


pr0zac posted:

Meme posting in the climbing thread.



I bought that Horst training book yesterday and hoo boy is this accurate

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Counterpoint: I am past 40, train regularly and didn't start until about 10 years ago (as far as serious training goes). On and off again bouldering and lead climbing due to injury, but this year I am finally back to being healthy and I worked through the crux for my first V9. I hope to get it videotaped this weekend!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

gamera009 posted:

Counterpoint: I am past 40, train regularly and didn't start until about 10 years ago (as far as serious training goes). On and off again bouldering and lead climbing due to injury, but this year I am finally back to being healthy and I worked through the crux for my first V9. I hope to get it videotaped this weekend!

Let me know if you need the obligatory spotter that says 'come on' over and over!

I will also slightly move the pad and then mid the spot completely.

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Anyone got tips/exercises for improving hip/shoulder mobility? I went to the gym yesterday and tried a couple new problems where I couldn't split my legs far enough apart to reach the holds, or I couldn't push myself up on a hold that's behind me without hurting my shoulder. My friend, who is not as strong but significantly taller and more flexible had no trouble with either. I'm not sure exactly what's holding me back but given how sedentary I was even a couple years back I imagine any kind of mobility work would help.

bones 4 beginners
Jan 7, 2018

"...a masterpiece that no one can read too often, or admire too much."
I went bouldering (indoor) for the third time the other day and I'm starting to enjoy it more now that I'm pushing past the fear of falling. Part of that is probably because I fell the other day and lived but hey. I almost made it to the tops of a couple routes that are one difficulty level up from where I am (two drat handholds away!) so it's really cool being able to see your own progress like that.

While I was at the gym, I noticed this guy climbing and he'd do this thing with his leg. Like he'd go up one hold, then bring up one of his legs to point at a hold(from the same route he was on) and tap it with his toe before proceeding. What's the deal with that? Is it just a warm up thing some people do?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

bones 4 beginners posted:

I went bouldering (indoor) for the third time the other day and I'm starting to enjoy it more now that I'm pushing past the fear of falling. Part of that is probably because I fell the other day and lived but hey. I almost made it to the tops of a couple routes that are one difficulty level up from where I am (two drat handholds away!) so it's really cool being able to see your own progress like that.

While I was at the gym, I noticed this guy climbing and he'd do this thing with his leg. Like he'd go up one hold, then bring up one of his legs to point at a hold(from the same route he was on) and tap it with his toe before proceeding. What's the deal with that? Is it just a warm up thing some people do?

I'm not familiar with that one, but there are a lot of footwork drills or warmup/conditioning drills that people do. It sounds like that to me.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)


armorer posted:

I'm not familiar with that one, but there are a lot of footwork drills or warmup/conditioning drills that people do. It sounds like that to me.

Yeah it’s just a footwork and body positioning drill

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~
Fun Shoe

spwrozek posted:

Let me know if you need the obligatory spotter that says 'come on' over and over!

I will also slightly move the pad and then mid the spot completely.

You misspelled ALLEZALLEZALLEZ

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply