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mewse posted:Get a Kinesis Advantage Advantage2
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Mar 16, 2018 22:19
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mewse posted:Anyone try Kailh box navy or jade yet? I’ve been using Box Navy for the past few months on a K-Type with SA Penumbra R2 set and they’re wonderful. Really tactile and crisp, there’s almost no ping on the upstroke, even with SA profile keycaps. I had been using GMK but the spherical shape of the SA caps feel really great with the tactility. I prefer the box navies to anything else I’ve ever used, Model M and Model F included. Going to be throwing them into a custom build kit I got a little while ago called the Camp C225 and I’m excited for the final result.
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Mar 16, 2018 23:34
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Slurps Mad Rips posted:I’ve been using Box Navy for the past few months on a K-Type with SA Penumbra R2 set and they’re wonderful. Really tactile and crisp, there’s almost no ping on the upstroke, even with SA profile keycaps. I had been using GMK but the spherical shape of the SA caps feel really great with the tactility. I prefer the box navies to anything else I’ve ever used, Model M and Model F included. Do the springs feel very stiff? Apparently Jades have trouble with the upstroke because of the relatively weak spring.
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Mar 17, 2018 00:03
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ColHannibal posted:The colors match your photo and your photo is of a wasd keyboard. Already tried that, as soon as you choose the VIM layout (which is what I want with that colorway), it overrides the colors. Anyway, I got an email back from them saying to just make an order referencing the video that keyboard is in and they'll make it.
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Mar 17, 2018 03:34
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mewse posted:Do the springs feel very stiff? Apparently Jades have trouble with the upstroke because of the relatively weak spring. No, the Navies don't suffer from the upstroke issue that the Jade's do, as they designed them with the click bar in mind. The jades were designed after the navies just to see if it would work.
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Mar 17, 2018 05:38
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TheFluff posted:If all you've ever tried is Cherry MX, it's hard to explain what you're missing out on - orange Alps are just loving amazing IMHO, the difference between cherry MX and alps is as great as the difference between rubber dome and cherry MX. I don't understand why cherry is the standard, alps / matias switches are just so unbelievably superior in every way.
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Mar 17, 2018 22:29
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:IMHO, the difference between cherry MX and alps is as great as the difference between rubber dome and cherry MX. I don't understand why cherry is the standard, alps / matias switches are just so unbelievably superior in every way.
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Mar 17, 2018 22:51
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evil_bunnY posted:Can you get a modern TKL with a brown equivalent switch set? I've had my eye on a kbparadise v80, mechanicalkeyboards.com has them with all kinds of options.
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Mar 18, 2018 01:21
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Thinking about a Tada or Saber, so the real question is Zealios or MODs?
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Mar 18, 2018 13:58
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MOD-M's are scratchy.
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Mar 18, 2018 19:11
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mewse posted:I've had my eye on a kbparadise v80, mechanicalkeyboards.com has them with all kinds of options. Yep, that or the matias mini series, though that's more like a 75%. I love that layout, I just wish they weren't so ugly. You can even get keycap sets for reasonable prices now, which absolutely was not the case 5 years ago and brings a small tear to my eye. Still no fancy DSA / SA stuff though unless you wait for group buys.
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Mar 19, 2018 00:29
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Sockser posted:I kickstarted a Das Keyboard 5Q two years ago and I've finally made peace with the fact that I'll either never get it or when it shows up it'll be basically unusable, and I'm really really tired of working on this $20 amazon membrane keyboard. HappyCapybaraFamily posted:The GMMK is solidly not-awful, and in addition to several baked-in lighting modes and animations has per-switch RGB control with their fairly intuitive software. It can also hot-swap the switches without soldering in case you find yourself diving down the rabbit hole of MX-style switches mike sickler is the one who was promised and may he usher in a new kingdom under the novelkeys banner  
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Mar 20, 2018 00:05
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 What switches did you end up going with?
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Mar 20, 2018 04:29
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Gateron blues. The clacking is a little bit "lighter"?? than I'd like, but that may be due to the keycaps being cheap chinese trash. Like the clickfeel is good, the noise is just a bit more high pitched than I'm used to from mechanical keyboards
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Mar 20, 2018 21:20
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Gateron Blues have a higher pitch click. Cherry Blues have this crunchy unsatisfying click. Outemu Blue are like the Cherry's but better sounding. The next step up would be Kailh click bars, but it's a different type of click. Keycaps make a difference too, either through the taller profile or if it's thicker plastic. I still think the best are SA profile since it amplifies it a bit, though Cherry profile sounds pretty good too.
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Mar 20, 2018 21:57
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Sockser posted:Gateron blues. The clacking is a little bit "lighter"?? than I'd like, but that may be due to the keycaps being cheap chinese trash. Like the clickfeel is good, the noise is just a bit more high pitched than I'm used to from mechanical keyboards Like Constellation I referred to above, you might be interested in the NovelKeys x Kailh BOX Navy Thick Click switches. You'll need to buy 11 of the linked product (sold in packs of 10 switches each) to replace all the switches on your keyboard. The sound of these switches are significantly lower pitched than Cherry MX Blues, and your Gaterons sound like they're even higher than Cherrys. The keeb weeb community almost universally loves these switches, so it might be a good buy for you too.
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Mar 21, 2018 03:20
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Megalixir posted:When did Leopold start making FC660Ms with unique PBT colorways in MX Clear? I liked my FC660M with MX Reds (now with GMK Plum) a lot, especially the silenced padding they use, so I ordered another. Just spent way too much on the TKL version of this, also with MX clears. I've never had a fancy keyboard, so naturally my first one was a weirdly esoteric model I had to order from some dude in South Korea.
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Mar 21, 2018 08:58
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So I bit the bullet and picked up a used Corsair K70 Gaming version (just red LED's) off ebay for 20 bucks. Much to my relief, all the keys and switches are in great condition. Only physical issue is one of the stabilizer receivers for the spacebar isn't there, so it catches once in a while. A bit of an actual annoyance, but I'm not sure if it is a part I can find/order to replace. It almost looks like I'd have to take apart the whole keyboard to replace it from the backside. There are two other issues, but they are not something I'd consider major. The first is the LED's under the keys don't turn on at all. I can go through the 4 phases using the button (dim settings and off), but it only lights up the media keys. I can push the keyboard button, even put it in programming mode, but none of the keys themselves light up. Related maybe, CUE won't detect it, even though Win10 detected and identified it correctly. I've tried a couple of different USB ports, and even without the passthrough, still nada. Any suggestions and/or recommendations to help solve these issues? As my first mechanical, I have to say I REALLY like the responsiveness of the thing. It has Cherry Blues I believe (judging by the stem color). I wouldn't say it is a total night and day difference from what I was using, but it's 99% of the way there to be honest.
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Mar 22, 2018 00:20
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Koskun posted:Any suggestions and/or recommendations to help solve these issues? Don’t know about the other stuff, but you can order stabilizers online for cheap-ish. (You’ll probably pay more for shipping than the part.) Looks like the K70 has Costar stabilizers, here’s a link to a place that sells them (which I’ve never used, fwiw): http://www.switchtop.com/product/costar-stabilizers-and-keycap-inserts (You should be able to find more sources by Googling Costar Stabilizer.) Costars are allegedly fussier to replace than Cherry stabilizers (I’ve only replaced Cherries), but you can probably find YouTube videos that show you how, maybe even on the K70 in particular. In fact, I’d start there, before you even buy any, just to know what you’re getting into. (I doubt it’s anything too tricky though.) Worst case, you gently caress up the whole thing and you’re out $20 plus a <$10 part and shipping. But that would be pretty epic loving up.  Have fun and get rid of that annoying unstabilized space bar.
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Mar 22, 2018 03:07
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The K70 has Cherry plate mount stabilizers actually. Not sure what exactly is broken on your stabs, so depending on what it is, you may not have to desolder. If you do need to desolder though, then it's a pain in the rear end as you pretty much have to break a couple of plastic pieces and pull the logo off on a K70 to get to the underside of the PCB.
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Mar 22, 2018 06:46
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Koskun posted:So I bit the bullet and picked up a used Corsair K70 Gaming version (just red LED's) off ebay for 20 bucks. Not sure about the lighting but if these parts match what's under your space bar I've gotten stabilizers from: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts.html I got an almost new $36 noppoo choc mini because one of the stabilizers was broken and I guess they didn't have 50c + s/h to get a replacement themselves.
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Mar 22, 2018 10:35
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Here is a pic of what is actually broke. It isn't in the spacebar keycap, it's on the board itself:
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Mar 22, 2018 15:36
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Yup, the stabilizer stem is somehow missing from that housing on the right. Replacing it unfortunately will require disassembly of the keyboard and I think desoldering the switch.
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Mar 22, 2018 16:28
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Yup, the stabilizer stem is somehow missing from that housing on the right. Replacing it unfortunately will require disassembly of the keyboard and I think desoldering the switch. It shouldn't require messing with the switch. There are plate mounted and pcb mounted stabs, I can't tell what those are from the photo.
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Mar 22, 2018 16:43
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mewse posted:It shouldn't require messing with the switch. There are plate mounted and pcb mounted stabs, I can't tell what those are from the photo. They're Cherry plate mounted stabs. You can MAYBE pop off the two stab feet, pop out the stab bar, insert the missing right stem and pop the stabilizer bars back again in place. But it will be very difficult as you need to loop it through the stab legs, through the stab stem and somehow lock the whole thing in. If that fails, the easiest thing (but most destructive) to do here is to open up the board, desolder the spacebar switch so you can pop off both stabs from the top without the switch getting in the way of the stabilizer bar and pop the whole thing back on there. Of course before all this, you'd need to buy Cherry plate mount stabs, so it should cost you like $2-$3.
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Mar 22, 2018 17:31
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Where would be the best place to get a replacement? I found a site mehkee.com, out of stock on the plate mount, and never heard of em. I'm guessing to get to it from the underside, I have to take all the caps off and each and every one of those screws as well?
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Mar 22, 2018 18:28
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NovelKeys has Cherry plate mount stabs available for a 7u spacebar. Your board has a 6.5u spacebar, but it shouldn't matter because you'll just be using the stabilizer feet and stem, and you'll be re-using the bar. Make sure to choose Plate Mount. https://novelkeys.xyz/products/cherry-stabilizers?variant=3747938861096 As for disassembly... You might have a bad time. https://codesandbolts.com/corsair-k70-rgb-spill-guide/ When you receive the stabilizers, they usually come disassembled. If they come assembled though, make sure to disassemble and reassemble it once again. Then you'll know what you need to do to lock everything in place. From there, you can judge if you're able to do all of that just from the top or if you need to do get to it from under the PCB (which is likely).
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Mar 22, 2018 18:35
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Appreciate all the help and information everyone. Looking at the thing, I MAY be able to slip it out without taking apart the keyboard, but don't want to push it too much at all. We'll see when I get it. Besides, taking it apart might not be the worse thing, as if I am really lucky I can maybe see why the keys don't light up.
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Mar 22, 2018 20:51
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I've had to install pcb mount stabs after i soldered all the switches. You probably will not be able to bend the plate and pcb enough to slide that one out and a new one in without unsoldering the few switches around each stab to get enough flex to make that happen. Keep in mind the stabilizer part on the pcb needs to be lifted up off of it. It's a pain in the rear end but it can be done. You might be able to push the bar out of the housing and put in a new stem with the legs clipped off through the top then slide the bar back in but I've never done that.
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Mar 23, 2018 00:33
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I just built a tada68 (with Kailh browns, very nice) over the weekend and hosed up by soldering before I had clipped in the switches and desoldering as a huge pain. But I sort of realized it's easier if you have a huge glob of liquid solder, so it is doable.
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Mar 23, 2018 02:10
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Bought some BKE Redux Extremes to replace the domes on a RF87U variable that's collecting dust, currently. Anyone have experience with these?
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Mar 23, 2018 07:32
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When doing my desktop computer refresh, I took things in a different direction for the keyboard. I got an Apple Extended Keyboard II, which has the same layout as a regular PC keyboard but with nice Alps White Dampened switches. To go from ADB to USB, I used this guide and this repo as a guide and created an adapter with $3 in parts from Digikey and a Teensy 2.0. The creator of the software used on said Teensy makes pre-made adapters for $35, which is your best non-DIY bet as all the older ADB to USB adapters that came around after Apple switched to USB with the iMac are now stupid rare and hella expensive.
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Mar 24, 2018 02:26
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In the market for my first mechanical keyboard and figured I'd ask for a general recommendation before I went straight for something from the Quick Picks list. I definitely want to go full size and I'm leaning towards the WASD. Is this still a pretty solid starter purchase or should I consider any other options more?
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Mar 24, 2018 19:28
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A full-size WASD is probably fine, but is there anything else you're looking for in a mechanical keyboard? What will you use it for? Where will you primarily use it? Do you know if you want clicky, tactile, or linear? Feel free to answer these questions with more questions. Hopefully this thread's denizens can help you figure out what might work best for your first HappyCapybaraFamily fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Mar 24, 2018 |
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Mar 24, 2018 20:56
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:A full-size WASD is probably fine, but is there anything else you're looking for in a mechanical keyboard? I'll primarily use it at my desk at home for typing documents, occasional coding, and some gaming. From reading the thread, I think I want something tactile. Are those little switch testers a good idea before going all in on a keyboard?
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Mar 24, 2018 21:09
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The Postman posted:I'll primarily use it at my desk at home for typing documents, occasional coding, and some gaming. From reading the thread, I think I want something tactile. Are those little switch testers a good idea before going all in on a keyboard? Not really because you can't actually type on them.
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Mar 24, 2018 22:04
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The Postman posted:I'll primarily use it at my desk at home for typing documents, occasional coding, and some gaming. From reading the thread, I think I want something tactile. Are those little switch testers a good idea before going all in on a keyboard? I am a tactile fan myself, and I am finding excuses to type more at work just for the fun of typing. Yeah, I'm weird like that, but what I mean to say is that I think tactile switches are great for document typing and coding for sure. They will probably neither help nor hinder your gaming performance. Don't listen to all the marketing/gamerboi hype about "gaming" keyboards. If you As for switch testers, it might be worthwhile to you to find out if you actually like clicky or linear switches better. If you do get one, first make sure you get a tester with keycaps to get a better feel for an actual typing experience. Then, test each switch with each finger you intend to use while typing (which ideally should be nine of your ten fingers), and press the switches with different levels of strength and speed of repetition. A tester won't ever be like typing on an actual keyboard, but it could help you get an idea of what you like in a switch without splashing out a lot of dough. If you're the social type and can tolerate the inherent risks in meeting internet strangers, you could go to a mechanical keyboard meetup in your area. r/MechanicalKeyboards has a wiki page of upcoming meetups, and geekhack has a forum dedicated to meetups as well. I've never been to one, but from others' experiences it seems like a fun and safe way to actually feel full keyboards and see some wild stuff in this hobby. Nothing beats the real deal. Anyway, to summarize this wall of text, a full-size WASD with Cherry MX Browns or Clears would be a perfectly fine starting point. Actually, you might be interested in their CODE Keyboard with Cherry MX Clears as well. Oops, my big dumb wall of text continues. You might also look at the Max Keyboard Nighthawk Pro X, available with Cherry MX Browns. It also comes with RGB backlighting if you decide you want that, plus it has a 2-port USB 2.0 hub and programmable macro capability, which neither the WASD or CODE seem to have.
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Mar 24, 2018 22:16
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Corsair k70 Vengeance died after a few years. Want to replace with something more durable/reliable. Not looking for programmable or customization or RGB. $150-ish or less. Narrowed down to these 3: (although might go 87 key instead) Ducky One 2 Varmilo VA108m WASD Code Is making the $40 price jump from the Ducky to one of the other two going to pay off in terms of build quality? Googling shows the common knocks for each are bad LEDs for Ducky (my k70 had heavy led failure which I didn't mind much), ping noise for Varmilo (not sure how much it would bother me), and ABS caps for the WASD (k70 had ABS which seemed ok). If none of those are deal breakers does it just come down to aesthetics?
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Mar 25, 2018 00:53
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Anybody have thoughts on heavy-ish linears with a transparent housing? Ended up buying a Massdrop CTRL (because, you know, I totally need it when I also have a K-Type, but I digress), and I'm trying to decide what switches to put in it. My K-Type has reds, which are too light. My Pok3r has blacks, which are nice, but just not quite as heavy as I want. On the K-Type, I'm thinking about just replacing the springs individually in every switch, but the CTRL is shipping without switches entirely. Current frontrunner looks like Tealios, but apparently they're pretty wobbly. I could buy RGB Reds and spring swap all of them just like the K-Type, I suppose, but I figured I'd put out feelers and see if anybody else had suggestions.
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Mar 25, 2018 01:04
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G-Prime posted:Anybody have thoughts on heavy-ish linears with a transparent housing? Ended up buying a Massdrop CTRL (because, you know, I totally need it when I also have a K-Type, but I digress), and I'm trying to decide what switches to put in it. My K-Type has reds, which are too light. My Pok3r has blacks, which are nice, but just not quite as heavy as I want. On the K-Type, I'm thinking about just replacing the springs individually in every switch, but the CTRL is shipping without switches entirely. Take a look at novelkeys’ yellow box switches. Heavier than blacks, top of the housing is clear (more than enough light makes it through with the box switches. I use navy boxes on a K-Type at the moment), and very little wobble from what I’ve experienced with the box switches.
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Mar 25, 2018 01:08
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