chami posted:

You misspelled ALLEZALLEZALLEZ

Verviticus posted:

has anyone climbed with a finger fracture? ive splinted/taped it up and im trying to decide if there's any value in going maybe 1-2 times a week when its late and just doing easy traversal stuff with the remaining 9

edit: probably should say that its my right pinky finger, fractured far away from the tip, not on the point and not displaced

Verviticus posted:

has anyone climbed with a finger fracture? ive splinted/taped it up and im trying to decide if there's any value in going maybe 1-2 times a week when its late and just doing easy traversal stuff with the remaining 9

edit: probably should say that its my right pinky finger, fractured far away from the tip, not on the point and not displaced

DaNerd posted:

Can you climb through it? Probably.

Should you climb through it? No.

It's difficult to say if you X then Y but the more you are active with that hand the more damage will occur in relation to it. Even just climbing with your index and middle finger will cause you to put move your pinky in ways that may damage it. It could be fine or it could result in it healing in a way that causes you pain forever in the future, it's impossible to say.

tl;dr: Impossible to say one way or the other, but climbing definitely has a greater than 0% chance of aggravating the injury, perhaps permanently.

Angryhead posted:

My main fear with "lemme climb and just not use this one broken finger" is that I'll still reflexively use it if I feel like I'm slipping or whatever and that's so so dangerous.

Sharks Eat Bear posted:

Do you remember what happened that caused the injury? How sure are you that it’s a pulley injury? Not that it’s impossible to happen other ways, but pulley injuries are often the result of crimping given the extreme force the hyperextension of your last finger joint puts on the pulley tendon.

If they are pulley injuries, the best rehab protocol is to stress the affected fingers frequently, but with very low intensity. The best way to do this is with a hangboard and a pulley counterweight system. If you climb once every two weeks you’ll make your recovery much slower than it needs to be. If you have access to a hangboard but no pulley, you could keep your feet on the ground as a way to control intensity. If no hangboard at all, you could do a few low intensity climbing sessions per week, being careful not to put too much load on the affected fingers (but not NO load — they need to be loaded to stimulate recovery. Hence why climbing is not the best rehab method, as it can be hard to straddle the line between enough load and too much load, especially if your foot slips!)

Try googling e.g. “hangboard pulley rehab” and look for results from ClimbHarder on reddit, the Rock Prodigy message boards, or maybe MountainProject (though there is a lot of garbage on MP). I also hear high praise for Dave MacLeods book on injuries “ Make Or Break” but haven’t read it myself.

gamera009 posted:

InjuryChat: Got to the topout section of Resonated, and ended up cranking on a dynamic move enough to tear the nail bed away from the nail on my right middle finger. separate about 2mm of the nail bed from under the front edge of the nail. Bled all over the place and made cranking painful as gently caress. Superglued it down and hopefully it will heal up in the next couple of days so I can crank on it some more.

gamera009 posted:

InjuryChat: Got to the topout section of Resonated, and ended up cranking on a dynamic move enough to tear the nail bed away from the nail on my right middle finger. separate about 2mm of the nail bed from under the front edge of the nail. Bled all over the place and made cranking painful as gently caress. Superglued it down and hopefully it will heal up in the next couple of days so I can crank on it some more.

Rime posted:

So I bought hooks and etriers. God help me.

gamera009 posted:

1-arm pull-ups are mostly neural, a lot less the strength component. If you can do weighted pull-ups, you’re probably 80% to the 1-arm. Just do assisted 1-arms with a resistance band for a while?

M. Night Skymall posted:

Should I just train weighted pull-ups then? Basically my biggest weakness right now is lock-offs and pulling into a one-arm lock-off when the motion is pretty dynamic so I can't cheat my way into position with a weird heel or high foot or whatever. I get that I can work on the technique side of moving my body into position better so it's not all pulling with my arm but at some point I watch other people do it and they just pull themselves into position and I don't have the strength to do it, and just in general my lock-off/pulling strength feels way below where it should be for what I climb. My gym had a campus competition a couple weeks back and I tried the problems afterwards and I could barely finish any intermediate problems, whereas for bouldering or sport I can generally finish all of the advanced problems and some easier open problems given time to project stuff.

I guess I could just start campusing more at the gym, but I'm having to change my schedule to have less days at the gym and less time when I am there so I'd rather get something going I can do on a hangboard or pull-up bar at home.

gamera009 posted:

Horst has a really nice series of training videos to deal with this. You can probably find them on YouTube or Vimeo.

I’ve used them and while I was doing 1-arm pull-ups at my peak I’d say that it didn’t really solve any problems. Lockoffs as a general issue should be something that is position, technique, and core strength. Just climb more roof problems.

M. Night Skymall posted:

Yeah, every time I look up stuff about how to train power I end up with "it's really just your core and technique" but mysteriously everyone who climbs V10 can trivially do a 1-armed pull up. The reason I want a routine to work on power is that "just climb more" is definitely not getting me there, I've been specifically focusing on routes I suck at that are power based and it's helping a little but it's pretty slow, I think I'm at the point where I need to climb less and train more. It's also worth noting I'm specifically interested in getting better at competition style indoor climbing, as I've probably got 3+ years before I start climbing outside again with any regularity.

This is the route I referenced in my first post, and it's supposedly similar in difficulty to plenty of routes I can climb, but I feel like I couldn't do that in a million years, even though the guy in that video isn't that far away from me in terms of what we can climb in general. Admittedly there's a lot more going on in that route than "pulling hard."

Anyway, I'll look up those Horst videos and see where I get, I'm pretty sure I have his book somewhere around here too.

armorer posted:

To be clear, "Just climb more" is great advice for new climbers. It's complete rubbish advice for people trying to climb >=5.12, or boulder hard like V10.

pr0zac posted:

Would you say it doesn't make sense to try and lose weight until you can climb a V10 also cause it has the exact same effect.

The fact of the matter is climbing is a strength sport, bouldering especially, and all exercise science points to starting strength training early being the most effective method for long term training outcomes.

There is a reason the Canadian long term athlete development program for climbing starts bodyweight strength training for kids at age 8-9.

Climbing on its own just isn't an effective way to gain the strength used by climbing. Climbing involves strength at all arm angles, but in large part involves isometric holds or movements that just involve a small percentage of a joint's range of motion, not pulling through the entire length of the muscle. Isometric exercises only effectively increase strength for about 30 degrees of motion around the point its held. Full ROM strength exercises like pullups train strength through the muscle's entire length. Climbing also generally doesn't provide stress at a high enough intensity to most effectively increase strength. It also doesn't make it easy to progressively increase load or progressively train movements and track progress. Strength training does all this.

I'd also suggest strength training early is obviously the most efficient time to start doing it. Early on your finger tendons will tire long before upper body muscles will meaning there are plenty of times where you shouldn't be climbing to protect your fingers but could easily be doing exercises to continue gaining strength. If you can only climb twice a week without hurting your fingers why wouldn't you use a third day to work on strength in the other muscles involved?

Probably most importantly, not doing strength training is a really great way to end up with muscle imbalances resulting in injuries and joints that can't work effectively. Having stronger pushing muscles will make your pulling muscles work better because they help support the joint. I would assume no one in here would tell someone to avoid doing finger extensor exercises until they can climb V10s. Why would you tell them to avoid doing the same muscle balance work for the shoulder and elbow joints?

I just don't get the stubbornness around minimizing the importance of strength in climbing. Yes technique is almost always the weakest link for someone early on but that doesn't mean you should completely ignore the other factors involved in being a good climber. Otherwise you just end up with a new weakness later.

pr0zac posted:

I don't yet have a one arm pullup but am currently training for one also with two days a week on strength focus (on top of my climbing where I'm focused on technique). One day dedicated to volume with high rep pullup sets and one dedicated to intensity with weighted pullup sets of 3-5 (start at 3 reps at a weight, go up 2.5-5lbs when I hit 5+ reps a set). Basically applying Texas method weekly linear programming to pullups if you know weightlifting stuff. I've been increasing at least by a weighted rep a set a week which isn't bad.

Also don't forget to do pushups or dips as well. Having the balancing strength will help you get stronger and will greatly reduce your chances of getting injured.

Kasumeat posted:

I just started climbing and I'm really loving it, but how do you do this as an old (early thirties) without owning yourself? After my third day of it:

...

Is there anything other than the usual RICER I can do now? Do I just have to accept that my body can't do this sport?

pfizerman posted:

I started climbing at age 32, I'm 185lbs and wasn't exactly fit when I started

I climb low 11s at the gym, I futz around on low 10s outside, and have a lot of fun loving around on sub-5.8 trad. I don't have a lot of faith that I'll be able to hit higher than 5.11 on real rock.

I've observed that when you're climbing later on without the decades of tendon strength you need to modulate your expectations. Sure there's guys in their 50s cranking in 5.13s, but that probably won't be you.

Instead just learn to have fun, celebrate small gains, and find other ways of having a hoot. Maybe take up route development or help cleaning crags. Work towards easy aid climbing or just fart around and the smoke bluffs in between beers.

armorer posted:

armorer posted:

I'm fairly sure that if I trained hard and kept that up for a year or two I could get into hard 5.12 and maybe even 13a.

armorer posted:

I'm not big on supplements, but I've found that ingesting large quantities of fish oil when I'm training hard helps me keep joint pain to a minimum.