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robotsinmyhead posted:Brewed for the first time since like January today. The one nice thing about it being cold out is chilling time. I put the coil in to knock my wort down to 160F for a whirlpool and it was like 90 seconds from 195. This is why I love winter brewing, plus I don't have a fermentation chamber.
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Mar 24, 2018 02:05
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Jo3sh posted:It it came with the CO2 cart installed, I'd guess that either it's not screwed in all the way, so the seal is unpunctured; or that all the gas has bled off. The latter  Are regular bicycle ones are OK, or do I need "food grade" CO2?
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Mar 24, 2018 06:41
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From what I gathered, "Food Grade" CO2 is the same CO2, but it's dispensed through a tap that is different than the ones industrial places might use. At least, that's what the cantankerous guy at Praxis told me. He blamed the change on Obama.
robotsinmyhead fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Mar 24, 2018 |
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Mar 24, 2018 15:15
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Ethics_Gradient posted:The latter Buy the cheapest ones you can find. I have one that uses 12-gram unthreaded carts, so I found an eBay vendor that sold them cheap; they work just fine. I think yours uses threaded carts, which actually gives you some flexibility, as there are a number of sizes to chose from.
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Mar 24, 2018 16:14
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robotsinmyhead posted:From what I gathered, "Food Grade" CO2 is the same CO2, but it's dispensed through a tap that is different than the ones industrial places might use. At least, that's what the cantankerous guy at Praxis told me. He blamed the change on Obama. Food grade is the exact same CO2. The difference is in the regulator type and standards of purity to meet regulations to avoid potentially getting people sick. Your bike cylinder (inflator/airsoft canister) is the same grade more or less, but isn’t food grade because the manufacture process gives a shitload of oil into the unit. When you blitz out CO2 you get the oil with it - to a level that isn’t approved for “food grade.” In the worst cases, without a good high purity regulator, you might get rust, other particulate, and god knows what in the outgassing. I’m new to the thread and I’m an absolute idiot so I haven’t thoroughly searched the thread, so I’m going to immediately ask the probably answered question of flavor profile of the multihead neomexicana hops. I live in CO, and I grow hops, so this is definitely my jam. It sounds like an aroma strain I’d like, but I’ve been burned before (looking at you citra) by too much polyphenol/thiol content leading to “cat piss,” and I definitely want to avoid that in what I’m growing. So far I’ve been lucky with cascade/centennial, but the centennial isn’t as productive given my growing climate. Cascade I can’t get rid of fast enough. I’m trying out rakau this year and am also curious about multihead - the neomexicana being the most interesting since it’s disease and fraught resistant. Anyone have thoughts on the multihead (or even rakau)?
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Mar 25, 2018 14:38
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No thoughts, but we have the same issue here (Northern Indiana). Cascade and Nugget grow like gangbusters and Noble hops do really well, but we couldn't get much going out of our CTZ and they gave up last year. Just the small plot we have right now is more than enough work for a couple of homebrewers.
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Mar 25, 2018 19:16
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So a while ago, I built a new rig using slotted steel angle. It looked so promising, but if anyone was thinking of doing the same, I can't recommend it. This pic is what was formerly the top back rail of the stand, showing the change in shape it experienced over the fairly small number of batches I put on it before I decided to go for serious overkill and weld up a new-new stand out of 2" square tube steel. Bear in mind that this is the worst piece in the whole rig, because it got the most heat. And no one was hurt and no wort was lost, but I started to get the fantods that it was going to give way and drop a big mash on my dogs, which would have made me unhappy for several reasons. Looking back, that stand only lasted me a year, which means probably around 12 batches. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Mar 25, 2018 |
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Mar 25, 2018 22:10
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robotsinmyhead posted:No thoughts, but we have the same issue here (Northern Indiana). Cascade and Nugget grow like gangbusters and Noble hops do really well, but we couldn't get much going out of our CTZ and they gave up last year. Just the small plot we have right now is more than enough work for a couple of homebrewers. Glad to hear! I'm going through the second year of cascade, so I'm going to be pruning bines for the first time this year, to boost cone production and flavor. Hopefully the centennial will also perk up a bit this year since it was a touch too shady last year for where they are - the difference in plant size was stupendous. If nobody else has grown either the Rakau (nee AlphAroma) or the Multihead, I'm happy to see how they perform this year and post a report. Both sounded like perfect additions for a west coast session IPA/APA in the aroma/dry hop.
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Mar 25, 2018 22:22
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Jo3sh posted:Bear in mind that this is the worst piece in the whole rig, because it got the most heat. And no one was hurt and no wort was lost, but I started to get the fantods that it was going to give way and drop a big mash on my dogs, which would have made me unhappy for several reasons. If you just replaced the parts getting the most heat with the 2” sq steel would that solve the problem or is the whole think just getting shaky? I guess you could probably turn the rest of the rig into a work table or something? Just a bummer that it only lasted 12 batches.
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Mar 26, 2018 02:35
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I was thinking of growing some Cascade as well, is it too late to start? What are some good tips/references for planting hops?
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Mar 26, 2018 03:59
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Napoleon Bonaparty posted:I was thinking of growing some Cascade as well, is it too late to start? What are some good tips/references for planting hops? Depending on where you live, no. It's plenty early. Generally, it's best to plant after last frost to avoid potentially shocking the rhizome if you're not planting a field-ready crown. I've always planted my rhizome about 4-6" below the topsoil, and then generously fill in with compost and growing soil that is nitrogen rich. About halfway through the season, towards mid-summer I switch to phosphate rich fertilizer. Mulch over the winter. Most online guides are consistent in information delivered - what changes is whether or not you're in an ideal climate for that strain of hops. In CO where I live, Cascade, Chinook, and Nugget grow very well. Crystal supposedly grows well out here as well. Centennial is not great, but not bad. Teamaker is quite good here, but isn't a great beer hop. I'm trying Rakau and the Multihead neomexicana strain to see how well they do. I live in a fairly arid and dry climate, so I tend to water once a week to make sure the crowns are getting enough water. All my plants are in direct sunlight and are situated on the south side of my house for maximum exposure. If the crown beds in, it will grow like a weed - the crowns can get ridiculously huge so unless you don't care or actually want the crown to be nigh-indestructable, you may want to limit the size of the crown. Some people have made 2'x2' walls that are buried i the ground that the crown "lives in" so that they can easily pull up the crown, trim back the crown, and replant to avoid significant issues over time. Personally, I decided it wasn't worth it since I have plans to essentially cover the south side of my house with hops.
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Mar 26, 2018 04:12
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I think our Cascades are on year 4 (3+1 rhizome year) and they're enormous now. Hell, 2 years in, we dug a couple up to propagate and it went from the size of a small stick (rhizome) to the diameter of a beachball or something like that. We've had good luck with ours because the plot we planted in was an old gravel driveway that we tilled up and mixed in. I think they rocky/loamy soil really suits hops as they seem to enjoy lots of water ONLY if they get lots of drainage as well. Just to the west of where I live is this really odd castoff area from the Ice Age days and the soil is essentially just sand - like a cold desert - in like a 20-30 mile strip that mirrors Lake Michigan to the south. There's 2 or 3 hop farms in that area and they say that lovely soil actually works really well for them as long as they fertilize.
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Mar 26, 2018 12:41
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Jhet posted:If you just replaced the parts getting the most heat with the 2” sq steel would that solve the problem or is the whole think just getting shaky? I'm not sure there's a good way to replace only the affected piece with the 2" steel. I mean, it could probably be done, but there's not a ton of upside to having the rig made half of one thing and half of the other. I just decided to remake the whole thing and scrap the slotted steel altogether - but you're right that some bits might get recycled into a table or something.
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Mar 26, 2018 15:14
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Napoleon Bonaparty posted:I was thinking of growing some Cascade as well, is it too late to start? What are some good tips/references for planting hops? Just be sure to prepare your space well enough and deep enough. I didn't dig out the garden bed last year and while putting in a brick border around it on one side found that the previous owner had put in the black garden mesh about 8-12" down. My hops are fine, but I did have to dig it out from under them in the middle of the summer because I had just assumed that it was prepared fully. Truthfully though, the fuggles adapted just fine, and they look to all three have a decent structure. I already have bines starting to poke up through the compost on top. I bought a book on gardening for beer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1612126863/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I like it, it's good on explaining hops farming and helpful for problem shooting, and it has useful info about other vegetation that is also beer friendly.
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Mar 26, 2018 16:02
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Double post yes, but I packaged a beer I brewed using the microbes I got from Der Penguingott today. It sat for about a year, and it turned into a really tasty sour brown ale. I got a keg full and 3 750mL champagne bottles. I used the second runnings from a double brew of quadrupel that's also getting packaged this week. Really looking forward to it being carbonated, those microbes are stellar and I expect I'll use them again in a little while. They've been hanging around in a quarterly fed 1/2 gallon container and will go into a golden sour next.
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Mar 26, 2018 18:50
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Thanks for the advice, everyone. I live in coastal California, so no frost to speak of. I was actually thinking of potting it with a trellis if possible. There's a garden in the back yard and I've heard hops are fairly ravenous, so I was looking at these leftover Napa half wine barrels they had at the supermarket for like, $30. They'd be about 25-30 gallons. I'm not exactly sure what a 'crown' is on a plant, but the barrel is certainly more than 2 cubic feet. Do you all just use the hops fresh, or is there a simple way to cure/dry the cones with home equipment?
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Mar 26, 2018 21:59
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Cheap drying is bagging the hops up in a muslin sack and laying them on a box fan, or finding some old framed screen windows and layering them on top of the fan. Warm and dry location, obviously, like an enclosed porch. Other than that, planning a beer right at harvest time is fun too so you can do a big fat wet-hopped harvest ale.
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Mar 26, 2018 22:20
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Jhet posted:Double post yes, but I packaged a beer I brewed using the microbes I got from Der Penguingott today. It sat for about a year, and it turned into a really tasty sour brown ale. I got a keg full and 3 750mL champagne bottles. I used the second runnings from a double brew of quadrupel that's also getting packaged this week. Horray! Glad to hear it turned out well for you. I've made over 120 gallons of sour beer with that blend and it just keeps getting beer the more you use it. Be sure to share it!
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Mar 27, 2018 02:03
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Der Penguingott posted:Horray! Glad to hear it turned out well for you. Definitely. However, I neglected to add yeast to the bottles and it only ended up in the keg for conditioning. So I sort of expect it to eventually carbonate in the bottles, but I won't check for at least another 6 months at least. I should be able to bottle a few from the keg though it won't be quite the same. I did add some dregs from Almanac Brewing and maybe one other place, so it's no longer the same exactly either. I'll keep adding my dregs to it too, because that's the whole idea I think. I have two bottles left from Enlightenment Brewing in Massachusetts that I really enjoy, so those dregs will go in as well hopefully. It will be a bit of a solera project, but it will only have the one step instead of multiples. I have a feeling it will be three vessels, but the 1st will just be 5 gallons and it will blend in at 5 gallons or so at a time.
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Mar 27, 2018 03:03
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Jhet posted:Definitely. As long as you put enough priming sugar in it should prime fine. I would imagine you will need a month or two to clear the THP from the brett doing the priming. I use champagne yeast to bottle because it will carb in a few weeks, but you're ok.
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Mar 27, 2018 12:45
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Der Penguingott posted:As long as you put enough priming sugar in it should prime fine. I would imagine you will need a month or two to clear the THP from the brett doing the priming. I use champagne yeast to bottle because it will carb in a few weeks, but you're ok. Yeah, I used champagne yeast in the keg, so that'll be okay. It ended at 1.000 SG too, so the champagne yeast is perfect here. The bottles will just take longer and I only have three and no motivation to actually open one until after the keg is empty. Probably will just leave those until next winter. I'm doing my other barrel aged beers with CBC-1 instead as I worry about over attenuation in the bottle with champagne yeast for ales.
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Mar 27, 2018 14:47
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Doing a second diacetyl rest on my lager seemed to do the trick. I just left it in the keg, moved it to a warmer spot in my apt, and burped the gas post 4-5 times a day. The yeast were active enough to warrant that, which is good and bad - it tells me the primary probably wasn't complete and the diacetyl rest wasn't complete either. Going on gas tonight and should be in the glass by Friday night, so I'll find out soon enough. I brewed another beer on Friday, my house Session Pale with all El Dorado, but I used a yeast I have no experience with - WLP644 Sacc Brux Trois. I kept it cool to prevent too much ester production, but hoping to get some of the fruity punch that strain is known for. Apparently, I have to put some extra effort into clarifying the beer due to poor flocculation, but that's ok.
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Mar 27, 2018 15:18
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Anyone in Ontario know of a good place to get barrels? Preferably for not insane prices. And preferably in the 1/4 to 1/2 bbl size range, which I know may be difficult, but I want something I can fill myself. Previously used is okay, and would prefer spirit barrels vs wine. Should I just contact some distilleries? All I can find googling is bespoke stuff for like $500+
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Mar 27, 2018 17:17
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After many years at my current job, I finally got an oxygen tank. It's an E size and I even have a regulator for it. We stopped using Praxair as a vendor here years ago and they pretty much said it's not worth their time to come get one tank, so I'm taking it. Wondering now if my local gas supply place will fill it. One bottle should last me approximately forever with my oxygenation wand.
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Mar 28, 2018 15:50
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robotsinmyhead posted:After many years at my current job, I finally got an oxygen tank. It's an E size and I even have a regulator for it. In my admittedly very limited experience, the gas supply places don't care too much, at least when doing swaps. I had an ex-Pepsi CO2 bottle fall into my hands a while ago. It was way, way out of hydro as well, but they didn't look twice before selling me a full one at the swap price. Worst case is they say, "sorry, we can't fill/swap that one."
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Mar 28, 2018 16:08
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Good to know! The guy that usually fills my tanks ended up coming to an event where my club was serving beer, so he knows it's going towards a good cause either way.
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Mar 28, 2018 16:10
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The place I go doesn't even do swaps, they just do fills. So that means I'm stuck with having to pay to get the tank certified and whatever too. But I did buy a new tank, so that's an instant benefit. I'd been sitting on an O2 wand for a while and finally got a tiny tank for it. I'll be using it for my next batch to see how it responds. I expect positively.
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Mar 28, 2018 17:00
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I hadn't brewed in almost a year, but I finally got a chance to try out cryo hops. Went trendy and did a hazy IPA, heavily inspired by this one. I've been trying to shorten my brew day, so I do things that are less efficient but speed things along. This was also my first time using brewing salts to adjust distilled water, rather than just getting Arrowhead water from the store. I didn't bother trying to calculate IBUs due to the whirpool and late hop additions. White Labs London Fog WLP066 (vault release, but it seems like it's popular so shouldn't be too hard to get again) 13lbs American 2 row 3lbs Carapils 2lbs 10oz oats (wanted 3lbs but that's all they had) OG: 1.067 FG: 1.014 ABV: 6.96% Mash - 60 mins @ 152 Hops: 1oz amarillo @ 10 mins 1oz citra @ 10 mins 1oz galaxy @ 10 mins 2oz amarillo @ 30 min whirlpool 2oz citra @ 30 min whirlpool 3oz galaxy @ 30 min whirlpool 1.5oz amarillo @ day 2 dry hop 1.5oz citra @ day 2 dry hop 2oz galaxy @ day 2 dry hop 2oz galaxy @ keg 1oz cryo citra @ keg 1oz cryo mosaic @ keg ---- More detailed notes: I do my best to avoid sparging so I mashed with 8.5 gallons water at 152 degrees, using distilled water treated with 5.5g gypsum, 12g calcium chloride, 0.5tsp 88% lactic acid. Cold sparged with 2.5 gallons distilled water (untreated) to collect what was necessary to get to 7 gallons in the kettle (1 gallon was needed). Gravity was a bit low so I added a pound of DME while it was boiling. 60 min boil 10 mins remaining I added 1oz each of amarillo, citra, and galaxy. Chilled with immersion chilled until it hit 180, then turned off the chiller and manually whirlpooled (stirred every so often) for 30 mins with an additional 2oz each of amarillo and citra, and 3oz of galaxy (I love galaxy). I have a way to control fermentation temperature and make it lower, but not raise the temp, and the house was just the right temp, so I pitched it at 65 without any control, and the weather was in my favor so after a couple of days it naturally rose to 68. After 2 days of fermentation I dry hopped with 2oz galaxy and 1.5oz each of amarillo and citra. After 9 days of fermentation I transferred to a CO2 purged keg, doing my best to avoid picking up oxygen (but I used autosiphon, not a closed transfer). I just got this keg hopper (11.5" version), so I filled it with 2oz galaxy and 1oz each of citra and mosaic cryo hops, for keg hopping. Tasted way too bitter at first, and also too salty, so I was worried I went too high on the calcium chloride, but after a week of carbonating it tastes amazing. 
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Mar 28, 2018 18:01
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My friend does amazing NEIPAs and swears by Cryo hops. He's also switched to using hop shots to attain his IBU cause he says he can nail the number without futzing around with the calculations. His last trick is doing a secondary dry hopping after the keg is cold-crashed which he claims gives the beer a huge aroma blast, he said the guys at Treehouse told him the one, so I'm giving it a shot when this Session IPA is finished up.
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Mar 28, 2018 18:06
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robotsinmyhead posted:My friend does amazing NEIPAs and swears by Cryo hops. He's also switched to using hop shots to attain his IBU cause he says he can nail the number without futzing around with the calculations. His last trick is doing a secondary dry hopping after the keg is cold-crashed which he claims gives the beer a huge aroma blast, he said the guys at Treehouse told him the one, so I'm giving it a shot when this Session IPA is finished up. Is he warming the beer back up after cold crashing for the second dry hop or doing it at cold crash temps? I have an IPL layering right now at cold crash temps and am planning to dry hop it. I'm just debating if I want to let it warm back up for that or not.
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Mar 28, 2018 18:25
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rockcity posted:Is he warming the beer back up after cold crashing for the second dry hop or doing it at cold crash temps? I have an IPL layering right now at cold crash temps and am planning to dry hop it. I'm just debating if I want to let it warm back up for that or not. He says he's doing a Cold Dry Hop, as close to 32 as he can get the beer. I've never heard of anyone doing this before, but he swears by it and it seems to work. From what I gather, Warm Dry Hops give flavor and cold tends to give a ton of aroma. Not sure what the mechanism there is cause it seems a bit counterintuitive.
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Mar 28, 2018 18:47
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My only fear is increased exposure to oxygen, which is supposed to be super important on hazy IPAs. I'm not sure how much you'll really get by opening it up for a second though. Hopshots are great, I used one for all brett IPA with the yeast bay's amalgamation blend and it turned out really well. Also cut way down on kettle losses and general leftover mess in the kettle when it was all done. I should probably upgrade my equipment, I've been using the same 10gal pot with no brewing modifications and cooler mash tun for years. I was trying to figure out what would be my dream home brewing system, but I get into practical limitations of how much space it's going to take up in the garage. It'd be nice to have a push button automated sculpture, but even ignoring the cost it's a huge amount of space in an already tight garage. I am getting tired of lifting pots with 8.5 gallons of hot water in them, I was thinking of at a minimum upgrading to SS Brewtech's mash tun and kettle. They have a nice looking conical fermenter, but that's not going to fit in the kegerator I use for temp control, and those gycol chilling addons are pricey as poo poo. Basically I just need a lot more space, time, and money.
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Mar 28, 2018 22:05
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I kind of assume that the headspace in a sealed fermenter is mostly CO2. Opening it probably swirls some oxygen in there, but the top layer of beer there is the only surface area exposed. Compared to transferring from a fermenter to a keg or bottle, that part seems minimal.
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Mar 28, 2018 22:34
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robotsinmyhead posted:He says he's doing a Cold Dry Hop, as close to 32 as he can get the beer. I've never heard of anyone doing this before, but he swears by it and it seems to work. From what I gather, Warm Dry Hops give flavor and cold tends to give a ton of aroma. Not sure what the mechanism there is cause it seems a bit counterintuitive. Sort of makes sense in a napkin-math way. The biggest reason you lose aroma is from fermentation and off gassing. When you're cold, the yeast aren't doing anything and can't blow off all your aroma from the hops. Not a terrible idea, but I wouldn't have the space to do it that way.
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Mar 29, 2018 03:20
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Now that Imperial Yeast has moved to bags, I'm officially 100% on board with them. I like their selection and 200B cells means I can get away without a starter many times and the lag phase is WAY shorter. Plus when I do need to make a starter, I don't need to make 5L of that poo poo. Recently I brewed an imperial stout that in a last-minute audible I decided to late hop heavily with Northern Brewer: https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/589105/ribs5-uninfected . Ended up drier than I wanted so I'd suggest raising the mash temperature and/or using a less attenuative yeast, but other than that it's awesome. Also I've learned to love the late hops only pale ales, this one is no exception even though I upped the ante to only a 15 minute boil: https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/625882/completely-sane-late-hop-pale-ale-sorta Good times.
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Mar 29, 2018 06:34
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I love short boils and I've been finding places to cut corners recently in my brewday to cut down on time (for easy beers - I still take my time on bigger ones). My last brewday was 3.5hrs even with a trip to a store to get my water. 30min mash, overlapped starting the boil while I did a short sparge, 40min boil (I could easily drop this more) and super cold ground water when I did my chilling. I got started later than I wanted and finished over and hour earlier than I'd planned.
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Mar 29, 2018 12:08
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Short boils are awesome. The pilsner malt that I get from France comes with a lot of cereal flavor though, so I like to boil for at least 15 minutes to try to help in driving off some of that. Extended aging also drives it to a pleasant level. I have 20 gallons of beer to brew to fill my barrels again coming up this month, and for two of them I'll only do 15 minute boils, but the mash will be about an hour for this golden sour. And with a system that can only handle 5 gallon batches, the short boil is super convenient. By the time I've cleaned the mashtun I'll be able to turn around and put it back on the burner with fresh water for round two. I may attempt to get a small beer from second runnings from the combined mash as well. That's likely to be a long brew day, but one with good production. The other barrel is getting a dubel with home made 'candi' sugar. Bonus shot of the Scottish 80- that just came out of the barrel that the golden sour is going to live in for a while. 
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Mar 29, 2018 16:18
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I did a no boil no hop sour brown ale and it's amazing. Is it still beer? Idk, but it's good. It's 3 years old now and I have 3 bottles left. Might crack one open soon.
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Mar 29, 2018 16:55
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robotsinmyhead posted:I love short boils and I've been finding places to cut corners recently in my brewday to cut down on time (for easy beers - I still take my time on bigger ones). My last brewday was 3.5hrs even with a trip to a store to get my water. 30min mash, overlapped starting the boil while I did a short sparge, 40min boil (I could easily drop this more) and super cold ground water when I did my chilling. I got started later than I wanted and finished over and hour earlier than I'd planned. poo poo, with 60 min mash and minimal cold sparging, plus a 60 min boil, I got it down to 5 hours including cleanup, and I was super happy with that time. 3.5 sounds way better, I may have to experiment with shorter mashes and boils. My mashes are so thin that I'm worried they may need more time than usual to fully convert, but I haven't done any testing yet. Jhet posted:Sort of makes sense in a napkin-math way. The biggest reason you lose aroma is from fermentation and off gassing. When you're cold, the yeast aren't doing anything and can't blow off all your aroma from the hops. Not a terrible idea, but I wouldn't have the space to do it that way. I thought he was talking about keg hopping though, in which case I don't think you'd lose any aroma? I don't think you'd have a big difference in putting hops in a keg then filling with room temp beer, and letting it cool to fridge temps overnight, and letting it cool to fridge temps and then dry hopping, but who knows? Maybe that brewing science site has done an experiment on it. Anyone tried brewing with kveik yet? I got some of this from Mainiacal Yeast, but haven't tried anything yet. I don't think I want to do a traditional juniper beer, but I'm thinking of remaking a lime gose I do with this instead of white labs 644. MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Mar 29, 2018 |
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Mar 29, 2018 17:09
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I've used the Stranda kviek (Omega's HotHead). Just treat them as any other yeast as most of the ones that aren't coming from Mainiacal don't have bacteria included and not all of those have bacteria either. Most seem to like it hotter during fermentation. I used the Stranda in a gose which turned out well. I co-pitched with Swanson's L. plantarum capsules for it. I think they've just taken in 9 more kviek strains at Mainiacal Yeast too, but they're not propped and ready for sale yet, but it brings the total to 18 of them available this year probably. There was a pre-order, but I think it's closed right now. Marshmallow Blue posted:I did a no boil no hop sour brown ale and it's amazing. Is it still beer? Idk, but it's good. It's 3 years old now and I have 3 bottles left. Might crack one open soon. Yes, it's still beer. I just packaged a sour brown myself. No boil no hops is still beer. Unless you're a government in which case you don't matter anyway because governments aren't actually brewing.
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Mar 29, 2018 18:44
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