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the simplest and cheapest way is probably to find a dipdap or swdap or the like that runs the mbed daplink firmware i can't seem to find anyone selling them though edit: actually i'm a dummy: https://l-tek.si/web-shop/l-tek-swdap-interface/ jump the pins to your target's jtag ports, drag and drop the .bin file from your compiler to a USB drive. no driver required hobbesmaster fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Apr 4, 2018 |
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Apr 4, 2018 17:12
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got a shipment from the sun-rescue mailing list - sun floppy drive (Sony lol) - Toshiba 32x SCSI CD-ROM - 40/80GB quantum tape drive, cable, terminator, and 8 blank tapes hell Yeah
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Apr 4, 2018 17:14
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haveblue posted:welp, looks like I learn to solder now. there doesn't seem to be any combination of parts available that can do everything I want without it heat the joint and then apply solder to it. don't put the solder on the iron and then carry it over to the joint. that's basically all there is to it
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Apr 4, 2018 18:12
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yeah thanks all, I'll get those things and watch some youtubes my current plan is this: -take this tiny amp/speaker and set it up with hammer headers -insert this splitter board between the speaker and the pi, soldering only the pins I want plus however many extra it takes to securely mount it -solder a bunch of these individual pins to the splitter -connect these between the splitter board pins and the LEDs remaining in the case -connect this mic using a micro-to-A USB adapter -hope all this fits inside the video game toy
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Apr 4, 2018 18:31
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watch the Pace soldering videos
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Apr 4, 2018 18:35
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Sweevo posted:heat the joint and then apply solder to it. don't put the solder on the iron and then carry it over to the joint. 90% true. if you touch a dry iron to a joint you only get point contact from the iron. if your iron has just a bit of solder on it, you will get to take advantage of capillary action to massively increase the contact area and decrease solder time.
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Apr 4, 2018 22:15
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my guess is the magic occurs mostly in the solder composition but in a week of soldering thru hole resistors my takeaway is that it's easier than basically any youtube video on the subject
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Apr 4, 2018 23:35
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well poo poo. the tape drive is some funky high voltage scsi that needs a special adapter to eBay where sun parts are a dime a dozen
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Apr 5, 2018 00:42
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lol yeah soldering through hole stuff is basically idiot proof it’s desoldering and anything surface mount that’s hard
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Apr 5, 2018 03:29
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correction: soldering _new_ through hole stuff is dead easy. Repairs on my early 1980's ham rigs are considered rocket surgery level work, and people prep their trace repair tools ahead of time. Those things lift like crazy after 35 years. gotta watch your heat and make SURE the joint is liquified before you pull the part or you just lift the trace off that lovely phenolic substrate. i'll pick modern SMT work over that nightmare any day
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Apr 5, 2018 03:31
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Got a massive amount of cables in today. Mainly Atari ST, Amiga, SNES and MegaDrive to SCART, and female SCART to 9 pin RGB adapter. Fired up my A1200 for the first time for ages, looks like something has died in it. No power or HDD LEDs. drat it.
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Apr 5, 2018 06:48
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I find soldering to be opposites for through hole and smd. Through hole is generally easy to solder, but can be a pain in the rear end to desolder. SMD is more challenging to solder but much easier to desolder. gently caress QFN
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Apr 5, 2018 06:56
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I just cannot seem to desolder anything successfully, ever, no matter through hole or SMT. Pulled up traces and all kinds of poo poo trying to desolder a hosed up voltage regulator on my Atari Jaguar. Of course, I don't have a hot air station, so I was trying to do it with solder wick, a solder vacuum, and a regular soldering iron, but still...
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Apr 5, 2018 07:00
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ask me about successfully desoldering a DIP28 with a regular iron, no hot air, no lifted traces and keeping the chip functional never again
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Apr 5, 2018 07:02
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Sagebrush posted:ask me about successfully desoldering a DIP28 with a regular iron, no hot air, no lifted traces and keeping the chip functional yeah i desoldered some pretty precious (long retired, ~15-20 buck each) tone generator ICs out of some dead $5 ham rigs. just dip-14's but jeeeezus next time im just going to sawzall the board away and clean up the leads
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Apr 5, 2018 07:10
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Windows can never decide which power settings to apply and whether it lets my computer sleep or not. This leads to firing up my laptop to remote to my machine in my workshop only to discover that the workshop machine is sleeping and not online. Since obviously walking over to wiggle the mouse or something is not an option it's time to make the junk box a little emptier with an idiot spare time project.
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Apr 5, 2018 07:11
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buy a hakko fx888d
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Apr 5, 2018 07:12
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 An old 433MHz remote with keyfob (I think it's one of those Holtek encoders) which happens to be 5v. Splice that into the +5V supply of an old optical mouse and use a random NPN transistor to pull the left mouse button's switch input to gnd when I hit the A button. it works, now to see if it can save me from almost certain inconvenience e: yuuup just saved me walking like 20-30 steps, a cold floor, and turning on a lightswitch. Baller. The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Apr 5, 2018 |
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Apr 5, 2018 08:21
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Sagebrush posted:god fuckin dammit why are these HIROSE connectors so expensive OMFG Hirose I actually had a friend who was visiting Japan pick some up from a spot in Akihabara because it was the easiest way to acquire ones that would work with a LispM now the LispM group I’m part of can make cables and even work on console emulation a friend just recently figured out the video encoding—it’s been known for a while it’s Manchester encoded, but it turns out that it intentionally breaks clocking to indicate horizontal and vertical sync so, uh, no FPGA IP block shortcuts for that project for the foreseeable future…
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Apr 5, 2018 09:23
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Sagebrush posted:sweet, thanks all for the tips. they're pretty simple design (david clark, which started out making g-suits for the air force, has been essentially building the same headphones for forty years) so i don't think there's anything weird going on, and no, there's no mic involvement. that is for later. set it up to do RC control of some sort of drone that can provide live front facing video and instruments as you fly it around home and elsewhere the smaller the drone the bigger the awesome, especially if you can still get video & instruments
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Apr 5, 2018 10:36
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You Am I posted:Fired up my A1200 for the first time for ages, looks like something has died in it. No power or HDD LEDs. drat it. bad power supply would be my first guess. the 1200 PSUs were pretty weak and get worse as they age.
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Apr 5, 2018 13:00
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Sweevo posted:bad power supply would be my first guess. the 1200 PSUs were pretty weak and get worse as they age. Yeah, going to throw a multimeter at it tomorrow to see what it is coming up with. There's a bloke in the US who can do aftermarket PSUs for Amigas and C64s (even combined with 1541 v2 support) but it ain't cheap.
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Apr 5, 2018 13:53
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just buy an A500 supply on ebay. they're compatible and have a higher current rating so they're not running near max all the time. it might also be the caps on the 1200 motherboard. if one has failed then it might be shorting the +5V to ground and making the power supply shut down
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Apr 5, 2018 14:38
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im thinking of buying a set of david clark cans just for work. splice those motherfuckers into a usb sound card. hows my conference audio NOW
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Apr 5, 2018 17:00
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Do it. You can get an older model in good shape on eBay for under 200, and David Clark has legendary service. You can mail them pretty much any headset they've ever made and they'll replace all the hardware and soft bits and rebuild anything that needs some work just for the price of shipping them back. That was a major selling point when I bought mine and I also like that they're kinda chunky and mechanical so I feel like I can fix them myself too. Did you know they also made the pressure suits for the X-15 and SR-71 and most of the US space suits up to the present?
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Apr 5, 2018 17:16
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neato. on the cans, i believe that there are pretty standard ear pads of different styles? vinyl, foam, whatever? curious to see what the options are.
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Apr 5, 2018 17:54
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Depending on the type some of those old headsets can have 5 ohm microphones; they're pretty difficult to amplify electronically without excessive noise. I've ordered some eBay audio transformers - 4-100 ohm and 8-1300 ohm - to test, my plan is to properly integrate my H157 headset with my marine HF transmitter (it even makes sense since that setup can do full duplex).
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Apr 5, 2018 18:20
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Yeah i figured that i'd hit pretty....unique....impedance and level issues, but im up for the challenge
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Apr 5, 2018 18:40
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military and civilian headsets have different standards, both electrically and physically. civilian headsets are about 50 ohms on the mic and require phantom power. not sure if military ones do but the impedance is lower (5 ohms sounds right) it's easy to build a box to inject phantom power, though, and the mic signal shouldn't need any additional amplification for a pc sound card i'd imagine the hardest part is finding a good price for a female version of that goddamned 0.206" TRRS connector that GA aircraft use for the microphone Jonny 290 posted:neato. on the cans, i believe that there are pretty standard ear pads of different styles? vinyl, foam, whatever? curious to see what the options are. yeah, for DCs at least there are a couple of different options from the company, and maybe some aftermarket ones too. mine have ear pads filled with some sort of gel that makes them feel like squeezing a balloon full of jello. weird at first but very comfortable. you can definitely get foamy ones and leatherette ones and such though https://store.davidclark.com/ear-seals Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Apr 5, 2018 |
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Apr 5, 2018 19:21
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Old school military stuff is all dynamic mics like the M101 capsule I have, IIRC it requires an amplifier with an input referred noise level of around 1-2nV/rootHz to have a chance at decent performance without a step up transformer. That level is doable with a well designed single transistor amp (my attempt used a common base amplifier to get a lower input impedance to better match the microphone), or a pretty high end opamp. Transformer is better for my application since I'd like to build a PTT+matching box that I can clip on my shirt, and the radio interface doesn't have power in most cases. You can buy 150 ohm versions of the common military microphones though, that's a much more reasonable impedance to work with.
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Apr 5, 2018 19:50
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current SBC status: while I’m waiting on a power board from Mouser (because gently caress analog electronics) I’m trying to start writing firmware so I at least have something for the board to do. I wrote a MAME driver that corresponds to my hardware and connects a dumb terminal to the MFP. I haven’t gotten it sending data out over serial yet (not sure if it’s a problem with the driver or the firmware) but I did get the SBC itself going in MAME so I have a little development environment and debugger to work with!
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Apr 6, 2018 09:02
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  my hardware is running in MAME
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Apr 6, 2018 23:17
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like, do you mean MAME is connecting to it, or that you just made a config for MAME that mirrors your SBC's config?
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Apr 6, 2018 23:41
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that’s such an incredibly good idea, to get it simulated in MAME can MAME simulate a 68010 now, or a 68012? 
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Apr 6, 2018 23:58
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Doc Block posted:like, do you mean MAME is connecting to it, or that you just made a config for MAME that mirrors your SBC's config? I wrote a MAME driver that mirrors the SBC's current configuration: MC68000 at 8MHz, 1MB of ROM at $0, 1MB of RAM at $100000, and an MC68901 at $600000. The video output is an emulated dumb ASCII terminal connected to the MC68901's output pins. I think MAME can use COM ports as I/O for emulated terminals, though. The actual board is still waiting on a couple parts. When I get it finally assembled, I should be able to burn the firmware that runs in MAME to my flash ROMs and have the same result. This also eliminates software errors as far as my build not working. eschaton posted:that’s such an incredibly good idea, to get it simulated in MAME I'm not actually sure if MAME supports the 68012. It supports all the mainline CPUs up to the 68040 in both regular and EC versions, so I could add a 68010 variant. My 68K assembler does all of them too. Luigi Thirty fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Apr 7, 2018 |
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Apr 7, 2018 00:33
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one improvement with the 68010 is that the Vector Base Register means you don’t have to do the “relocate ROM with a softswitch after boot” thing, you can just have your ROM change the VBR to move the interrupt and exception handlers to RAM as part of initialization
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Apr 7, 2018 02:50
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Yeah, I've added a 68010-based "idealized" driver to keep it separate from the hardware that I've actually built.
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Apr 7, 2018 05:15
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Luigi Thirty posted:
holy poo poo dude
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Apr 7, 2018 12:20
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got my Zeny 858D hot air rework station it didn't catch fire
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Apr 7, 2018 14:56
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check that the ground is connected, my atten station didn't have grounding at all when i got it i also like using it with a foot-pedal since the magnetic on/off is terrible
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Apr 7, 2018 15:45
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