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It’s one oz for each 2 gallons, so usually 2 oz per wash since you only need a one bucket wash. If you get the 32 oz bottle it’s about 16 washes. Mileage varies once you use it for clay lube, interior, etc.
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Apr 18, 2018 15:48
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RIP Paul Walker posted:I might just be drinking the kool aid but Ammo's new rinseless wash setup looks promising: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDxRPQLh_zA Is their stuff any good? I've heard of them, but don't see their stuff getting much exposure aside from their website and videos. It also seems more expensive than the other options.
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Apr 18, 2018 20:14
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savesthedayrocks posted:It’s one oz for each 2 gallons, so usually 2 oz per wash since you only need a one bucket wash. If you get the 32 oz bottle it’s about 16 washes. Mileage varies once you use it for clay lube, interior, etc. Also, what do you guys do for undercarriage cleaning? I imagine the salt in DC won’t be too bad but I’ll actually have to worry about it which I don’t in Atlanta.
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Apr 18, 2018 20:18
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For just cleaning off dust or light duty you can use it at the quick Detailer ratio. Spray on a MF towel and wipe whatever surfaces. If you are getting off serious grime I’d use an all purpose cleaner. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/how-to-optimum-no-rinse-onr-detail-spray/amp/
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Apr 18, 2018 21:18
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Whoever recommended synthetic clay (https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garag...=synthetic+clay) was on the loving money. I drove my white car all winter with apparently very metallic brake pads so the sides were absolutely covered.  Picture doesn't do how bad it was justice, per usual. I tried the bar for the first time and holy poo poo, I can't praise it enough. It takes 1/10 of the time as a normal clay bar. I did the entire car in probably half an hour. It was silly. It's best on flat surfaces as I ran into a bit of streaking at the edges where panels meet up, but overall pretty pleased with it. I don't think I'll ever go back to the conventional ones, even if this only lasts a few uses. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Apr 23, 2018 |
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Apr 23, 2018 01:47
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I'm having didn't-buy remorse. I had the Pinnacle diamond coating stuff in and out of my Autogeek cart Sunday and Monday for the 25% off sale, decided against buying it because I didn't want to mess with doing a paint correction. Looked at my paint again today in the sun and could've totally lived with the few spiderwebs that are there (Car is only 4 months old). :facepalm:
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Apr 25, 2018 01:27
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If it’s any consolation, DetailedImage is running a 25% off sale for the next day. Didn’t see the product you mentioned though.
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Apr 25, 2018 01:59
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Josh Lyman posted:How long does a bottle of ONR last? It's $20 on Amazon which is like 10 washes at a self serve. though the closest of those to me will be 6 miles away. where are you? i have a jug that's been sitting around for 5+ years and i only used a tiny bit of it. you're welcome to it if you're local to seattle. Larrymer posted:Whoever recommended synthetic clay (https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garag...=synthetic+clay) was on the loving money. I drove my white car all winter with apparently very metallic brake pads so the sides were absolutely covered. me me me i'm the shameless griots fanboy
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Apr 25, 2018 14:40
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BraveUlysses posted:me me me i'm the shameless griots fanboy I thought it was you. 
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Apr 25, 2018 15:39
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RIP Paul Walker posted:I might just be drinking the kool aid but Ammo's new rinseless wash setup looks promising: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDxRPQLh_zA I just bought this, will report back.
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Apr 26, 2018 17:31
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I got their hydrate and tire mud, plan on trying them this weekend.
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Apr 27, 2018 16:35
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Enjoy. By far my two favorite products.
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Apr 27, 2018 17:54
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ratbert90 posted:I just bought this, will report back. I also bought the Aerator, Hydrate, Skin, and Reflex. Total cost: $244 a mysterious cloak posted:I got their hydrate and tire mud, plan on trying them this weekend. Trip report: FrothE: Amazing, works exactly as advertised. especially for Apartment Dwellers. Hydrate: Also amazing and worth every penny. Skin is sitting on the wife's Solstice right now, will finish tomorrow with that and Reflex. Then pictures.
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Apr 28, 2018 00:43
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I just read more about Hydrate and now I gave in and ordered some. Now I need to stop ordering more detailing products and actually get to using them on my car.
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Apr 28, 2018 01:12
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I have a closet full of wash and detailing stuff and we just moved to an apartment complex with outdoor parking and no car wash area. My car with brand new wheels is covered in pollen. I am so sad.
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Apr 28, 2018 01:59
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Night Danger Moose posted:I have a closet full of wash and detailing stuff and we just moved to an apartment complex with outdoor parking and no car wash area. My car with brand new wheels is covered in pollen. I am so sad. Get Frothe, it’s fantastic and perfect for apartment people.
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Apr 28, 2018 13:32
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Why not get a 12v or battery powered hose/pressure washer system?
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Apr 28, 2018 13:47
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Detailing thread: I just bought a new car with leather seats. Other than getting the windows tinted (this weekend) to protect the leather from the continuous death-radiation common in the subtropical hellscape that I inhabit, what should I be doing to protect it long-term?
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Apr 28, 2018 15:31
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I use oakwood leather cleaners for home and car, but maybe look into leatherique pristine clean if you don't have any trouble getting it (I've had trouble, but it is usually highly recommended so maybe worth the hassle?) Crappy distro here but in the US chase them up E: horrible website and when clicking on products it goes from .com to .org and different vendors and looks completely illegit. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Apr 28, 2018 |
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Apr 28, 2018 16:24
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While on leather chat what's best for cleaning a leather steering wheel without making it feel slippery?
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Apr 28, 2018 18:51
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Any leather cleaner should be fine. I know for a fact that Autoglym leather cleaner won't make it slippery. It's what I use leather wheels.
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Apr 28, 2018 20:30
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a mysterious cloak posted:I got their hydrate and tire mud, plan on trying them this weekend. Hydrate: pretty cool. Definitely dries better than the standard waffle or plush microfiber - I didn't see any streaking at all. Seems to work better on areas that aren't totally holding on to the water (I'm looking at you, roof). Otherwise really impressed with how well it worked. Tire mud: I dunno, it looks good. Just scrubbed it in and let it soak. It also looks like chocolate syrup, put it on your ice cream for a tasty treat.
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Apr 28, 2018 21:02
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Is cleaning a headliner an easy DIY project or should I leave it to a pro? Bought a car that was smoked in and I can't find a replacement so I need to clean what I have. I've heard horror stories of sagging headliners so if anyone has any tips/guides/recommendations it would be appreciated.
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Apr 29, 2018 02:38
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SHAQ4PREZ posted:Is cleaning a headliner an easy DIY project or should I leave it to a pro? To get rid of the cigarette odor, what you want is an ozone generator. Someone in this thread who knows more about them than me can chime in, but you just set it in your car while it runs for a while and the smell goes away.
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Apr 29, 2018 02:42
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For odor the ozone gen is the way to go. I'm also assuming it's got that wonderful deep yellow from years of cigarette smoke. Best thing I can think of is go to town with a high quality fabric cleaner and a soft bristle brush, and be prepared to use spray adhesive to stick it back up if it sags.
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Apr 29, 2018 03:55
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MrYenko posted:Detailing thread: I just bought a new car with leather seats. Other than getting the windows tinted (this weekend) to protect the leather from the continuous death-radiation common in the subtropical hellscape that I inhabit, what should I be doing to protect it long-term? You can buy a leather cleaner/conditioner system, or get a leather cleaner and a leather coating product. Conditioners are products that contain leather-friendly oils and other such stuff that are supposed to keep the leather supple and hydrated. Most conditioners come as a standalone product and and you standalone cleaner at the same time to make it a 'system', but some are 'all in one' solutions with both cleaners and conditioners in one bottle. Conditioning is very useful for older leather and non-automotive leather, because with those types of leather the oils can actually penetrate the hide and do their job to keep it soft and hydrated. However, 99% of automotive leather these days is polyurethane coated leather, so sometimes these conditioning oils just sit on top of the plastic coating and don't really go anywhere or do anything. Some manufacturers claim that their conditioning products are specifically designed for automotive leather and don't have this issue, but it's hard to know which products are which honestly. The 'new school' way of protecting leather is to first use a leather cleaner, then a dedicated leather coating afterwards. The idea is that you first clean the leather to remove any dirt/grime/oil like normal, then apply a coating to the freshly cleaned surface. (Many brands want you buy their 'dedicated leather cleaner', as if there is something really special about leather, but in fact you can use any all-purpose-cleaner as long as you use a gentle dilution.) Leather coating products put a thin layer of polymer (often SiO2 or some similar chemical) on top of the PU coating that protects against UV rays from the sun and from abrasion and stains from people using the car. Another benefit to a coating is that the protective coating lasts for quite a long time (months always, sometimes years), while a conditioner doesn't have a sacrificial coating at all (it just keeps the leather soft). The supposed downside to a coating is that it 'locks out' all moisture (the coating is hydrophobic) and prevents the leather from rehydrating itself. The counter argument to that is that the leather is already PU coated, so moisture has a hard time getting in and out anyway. Confused yet? Me too. Ultimately I think you could could pick either option and be OK. The most important thing is to always vacuum the crevices before you clean your seats - that way you aren't rubbing grit into your seats when you clean them with a leather brush or microfiber towel. The other thing is to stay on top of keeping your leather clean, say every 2 or 3 months, as regular maintenance is better. - - - Suggestions for a leather cleaner/conditioner system: 1. Meguiars Gold Class Leather Cleaner / Meguiars Class Leather Conditioner. 2. Duragloss Leather Shampoo / Duragloss Leather Conditioner. 3. Meguiars Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner/Conditioner (all-in-one product). 4. 303 Products Leather 3-in-1 (all-one-product). Meguiars and 303 are 'over the counter' products, but honestly they are respected by detailers and detailing enthusiasts. Duragloss makes good products that 'just work' and are cheap. - - - Suggestions for a leather cleaner: * Any good APC from Meguiars (D101), 1Z Einzett (Blitz), Optimum (Optimum Power Clean), Poorboys (All Purpose Cleaner and Degreaser), etc etc - - - Suggestions for a leather coating: 1. CarPro Cquartz Leather & Vinyl Protectant (semi-permanent, comes in a tiny bottle, not the most user friendly product to apply, lasts for over a year, lots of pros use this). 2. Gyeon LeatherSheild (similar to the CarPro product above). 3. Gyeon LeatherCoat (comes in a more user-friendly spray bottle form, just spray onto applicator and apply, lasts for 3 months). - - - Personally I chose the cleaner and coating opition, as I'm not convinced that PU-coated leather needs any special form of conditioning. I say that because there are plenty of leather seats in German Mercedes taxis that aren't getting any special conditioners applied, and they seem to be OK. I use 1Z Blitz (at 1:30 dilution) and Gyeon LeatherCoat. Crescendo fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Apr 29, 2018 |
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Apr 29, 2018 14:40
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I don't know if it's been mentioned in this thread, but I found a new tire cleaner that works better than anything I have ever used, but it's not actually made for tires. It's called Tarminator and it's made by Stoners. It gets the tires so clean they look new and I feel no need to put any kind of treatment on them afterwards, best stuff I have ever used for tires by far.
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Apr 29, 2018 17:20
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Larrymer posted:Whoever recommended synthetic clay (https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garag...=synthetic+clay) was on the loving money. I drove my white car all winter with apparently very metallic brake pads so the sides were absolutely covered. Forgot I picked this up last week after reading your post - tried it on my wife's filthy Camry, and hell yes this stuff is fantastic. Smoothed out her neglected paint really fast like you said. Definitely a huge upgrade from regular clay and worth the price.
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Apr 29, 2018 18:19
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ratbert90 posted:I also bought the Aerator, Hydrate, Skin, and Reflex. Total cost: $244 So what is the hydrate exactly? Like a spray wax or something? Also does it matter what kind of wax you use if one wants to invest in this setup?
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May 4, 2018 02:57
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Any suggestions for glass coatings? I've still got one aquapel applicator floating around, but is there a better alternative these days?
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May 5, 2018 01:07
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^^^ Still have like 5 applicators left so hopefully not  Is it true that Japanese clearcoats tend to be softer and require an appropriate compound? I'm about to buy some Dodo stuff for the miata and they have a special Japanese kit but this all seems like hearsay.
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May 5, 2018 08:28
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I know people say Subarus have soft paint, I'm not sure if it's a general Japanese thing.
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May 5, 2018 10:13
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There are variations (like Mazda has really thin paint), but I think that in the end it doesn't really matter that much. It's more likely to be poor technique / bad residue control giving poor results than "drat this paint is soft and impossible to work on". To be honest, a Japanese specific kit sounds pretty gimmicky (like color wax), but if it isn't more expensive who cares. Applebees Appetizer posted:So what is the hydrate exactly? Like a spray wax or something? IIRC, hydrate is his drying aid. It helps lubricate the towel while drying, while also enabling it to soak up more water. I think it leaves some form of protection as well. Reflex is a coating of sorts, that is the foundation of the protection on the car. You then use SKIN on top of it to boost the performance. You can use SKIN on its own as a sealant of sorts. No wax needed on top (and kinda pointless unless you have a showcar).
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May 5, 2018 10:39
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So the Skin is like a synthetic polymer "wax" then? Or is that the Reflex? Lol I'm confused
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May 5, 2018 14:41
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I was at a job site and stupidly parked my car in the wrong area and it got covered on all sides with industrial 2 part epoxy paint overspray. It's a white VW GTI, and the paint was grey, so it didn't show up very bad on the panels, except the sunroof which is black, and the windows which are tinted. Also it felt gritty when you passed your hand over it and it kept the windshield wipers from really getting a clean swipe and they were really streaky. I got a Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit, washed the car with dawn & water, then went to town. It is amazing how well this thing worked removing the paint overspray. It took a little over 3 hours to do the whole car, but it wasn't difficult work. Just monotonous and time consuming. I got a roller stool from Northern Tool to help with the sides, which made that part a lot easier. As a bonus, the clay got a lot of contaminants off the rear bumper that have been stuck there for a while. Stuff seems to collect there, I guess due to the air flow at the back of the car. Anyway, here's a picture of the first section of the sunroof I did. The cleaned part is only a small section at the bottom, and I ended up going over it a little more.  Here's a closer before picture of the sunroof. There's a little smudging from the quick towel dry I did, but all those dots are paint.  And the after. No, that's not a picture of my garage door opener. That's the reflection in the cleaned sunroof.  I had read people posting in this thread recently about the Speed Clay, but since this was a kind of heavy duty job, I decided to go with the regular clay kit and I'm glad I did. It came with 2 bars of clay, each of which I split in two while working. I went through 3/4 of the clay. Now that I've got a clean car, who wants to recommend something to put over it? I don't own an orbital buffer, so if there's a full kit that comes with stuff that you use and not a ton of extras that end up getting thrown away, that would be cool. GentlemanofLeisure fucked around with this message at 21:15 on May 5, 2018 |
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May 5, 2018 21:11
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So I'm probably taking delivery of a white Volvo XC90 on Monday. It's a two-year lease and a daily-ish driver so I'm not in things for the very long haul or expecting it to keep a showroom finish. Unfortunately I also took delivery of my second child three weeks ago, so I am very short on free time. I was thinking of a pass of Optimum No Rinse and then doing McKee's 37 Paint Coating and calling things sorted for the next year or so. Is it really awful if I skip the clay bar + polish step on a braaaaand new car? I just want city grime and dust to be easily removeable, and have some small defense against people brushing up against the car with bags/clothing.
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May 6, 2018 02:29
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umbrage posted:So I'm probably taking delivery of a white Volvo XC90 on Monday. It's a two-year lease and a daily-ish driver so I'm not in things for the very long haul or expecting it to keep a showroom finish. The reasoning behind "must polish before putting on coatings" is pretty much purely that it's expensive to have it done by a detailer in the first, so you might as well do it properly if it's going to be on the car all that time. "Locked in" swirls and all that. But there is nothing stopping you from doing a wash (I'd do the claybar as well to be honest, there is so much poo poo from transporting) and then put on the coating. Sure there'll be some swirls here and there, but who cares on a daily lease. I wouldn't count on the defense part though, but then again, a clean(er) car will have less dirt on it to be rubbed about when some idiot brushes up on it. Applebees Appetizer posted:So the Skin is like a synthetic polymer "wax" then? Or is that the Reflex? From my understanding, Skin acts like a normal sealant when used on its own. When used on top of Reflex, it's more like a "top coat" like many of the other brands have. Like CQuartz UK has "Reload" that on its own can be used as a sealant, but used with the coating it's a top coat for "enhanced gloss and protection".
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May 6, 2018 07:59
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MrOnBicycle posted:From my understanding, Skin acts like a normal sealant when used on its own. When used on top of Reflex, it's more like a "top coat" like many of the other brands have. Like CQuartz UK has "Reload" that on its own can be used as a sealant, but used with the coating it's a top coat for "enhanced gloss and protection". Any idea how long the sealant tends to last? Sounds a lot like how Zaino products work, back when I was using Zaino it would last a good 4 to 6 months.
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May 6, 2018 18:43
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MrOnBicycle posted:There are variations (like Mazda has really thin paint), but I think that in the end it doesn't really matter that much. It's more likely to be poor technique / bad residue control giving poor results than "drat this paint is soft and impossible to work on".
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May 9, 2018 20:18
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yes, they are fantastic and so much better than traditional clay
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May 9, 2018 20:49
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