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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Every day is too much -- your body needs rest to get stronger and repair damage to muscles and tendons. Every individual is different, but for most people who are in decent shape, I would think you could get away with doing 3-4 short/low-intensity sessions over lunch and 1 longer weekend session (e.g. climb M-Tue, rest W, climb Thu-F, rest Sat, long climb Sun) but even this is probably pushing it and you'd be better off erring on the side of doing less Turns out with travel time and putting on/taking off gear and all that, I only get 25-30 mins of actual climbing on weekdays max. I can tell after today's quick session, and 3 hour sessions on Sat/Sun, my left elbow and my fingers are starting to get a tiny tiny bit achy, so I'll back off until the weekend. Doing a few weekday short sessions spaced out and a longer climb Sunday seems perfect to me. 
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Apr 16, 2018 21:08
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Tactical Lesbian posted:An easy bet right there -- you're absolutely right. After 2w when I was still testing the waters I started doing it monday / wednesday / friday week one - tuesday / thursday week two - felt alright, if not not enough (started bouldering at a ripe old age of 31, been doing it for 2-3 years now). You can go weekends if you feel like it, while keeping one day for a rest. With that regime I've had no serious injuries (apart for small stuff with my fingers when I didn't do a proper warmup + bad shoulder due to IT job). In the beginning I was full of energy and climbing for 2h, but in the end I've settled for 1-1.5h routine. I guess it all depends on age, as mate of mine that started bouldering earlier (at 16y/o) and was much more good at it than me was bouldering 2-3h almost daily - but that was after 10y or so of climbing.
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Apr 17, 2018 20:38
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Tactical Lesbian posted:So as a newbie, under 1 month of climbing, is there anything wrong with just climbing like every day? Like 30-60 minutes over lunch time, and ~3 hours a day on weekends? Am I going too hard right out of the gate? Get another hobby that you can't do every day. Running is good. Use one to rest from the other.
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Apr 18, 2018 10:20
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The biggest problem with doing such short climbing sessions is that you won't possibly have time to warm up.
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Apr 18, 2018 18:42
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jiggerypokery posted:Get another hobby that you can't do every day. Running is good. Use one to rest from the other. A friend has been pretty successful at getting me interested in cars, which seems fun. e: oh yeah ice skating is a thing I should get into again. Also I broke my solemn vows and went for a short climb yesterday and did my first 5.10  I don't even feel sore anymore. Is this a "listen to your body" moment or should I really for really reals not climb more than a few times a week? *scratches neck fervently* Ay mang y'all got any more of them rocks? Tactical Lesbian fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Apr 20, 2018 |
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Apr 19, 2018 17:50
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Tactical Lesbian posted:A friend has been pretty successful at getting me interested in cars, which seems fun. Mostly just listen to your body, and make sure you warm up before getting on stuff near your limits.
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Apr 19, 2018 18:07
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Verviticus posted:has anyone climbed with a finger fracture? ive splinted/taped it up and im trying to decide if there's any value in going maybe 1-2 times a week when its late and just doing easy traversal stuff with the remaining 9 five weeks later and other than a bit of finger pain, almost haven’t missed a beat. i got lucky it was a minor break and i only needed five weeks
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Apr 21, 2018 06:09
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Still a couple weeks left before classes are over and I can get climbing again. In the meantime, I managed to come up with a way to practice gear placements. Found some bomber placements for several of my smaller chocks, and one for my .5 tricam. Also, I should probably think about getting my driveway patched.
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Apr 24, 2018 03:23
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Update: yeah, 1 long session and a couple short sessions a week seems good. I definitely can tell my fingers and forearms aren't 100% until a full 48 hours after the longer weekend climb day. From the sounds of it, I can't really do hangboarding until like a year of regular climbing? My thinking has changed here -- I definitely want to climb more than this but I don't want to risk injury... otherwise I get to climb even less!
Tactical Lesbian fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Apr 25, 2018 |
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Apr 25, 2018 01:10
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Tactical Lesbian posted:Update: yeah, 1 long session and a couple short sessions a week seems good. I definitely can tell my fingers and forearms aren't 100% until a full 48 hours after the longer weekend climb day. I know plenty of people who climb 4 or more days a week but none are beginners. I see lots of beginners who are at the gym a lot then dissappear, probably from injury. If you're going to climb frequently then vary what you're doing in terms of focusing on power/endurance or at least different problems with different styles. If you can't find stuff easy enough you feel like you could climb on it forever then frequent climbing probably won't work out since it'll be basically all power/limit climbing. It is possible to hang board early but you probably need a pulley to take weight off and a good plan, but it's boring as poo poo and not any safer than climbing probably so why not just climb instead.
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Apr 25, 2018 01:43
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M. Night Skymall posted:I know plenty of people who climb 4 or more days a week but none are beginners. I see lots of beginners who are at the gym a lot then dissappear, probably from injury. Noted -- thanks for the advice! 
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Apr 25, 2018 01:51
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Never sent a V4 before today but then I did three if em hell yeah!
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Apr 25, 2018 04:33
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Hell yeah I just did my first v4 today too. I used the ceiling though, does that count? Edit: It must, one contacts it frequently on roof problems Kasumeat fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Apr 26, 2018 |
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Apr 26, 2018 05:49
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Kasumeat posted:Hell yeah I just did my first v4 today too. I used the ceiling though, does that count? It never counts. The problem is always soft. Or inside. Or you dabbed. Or a hold broke since being established changing the grade. Climbing is a futile existence. There is one realization all men of good will share: in the end our works make us feel ashamed, we have to start out again, and each time the sacrifice has to be made anew.
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Apr 26, 2018 14:36
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Proud of you v4 senders! 
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Apr 26, 2018 18:10
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M. Night Skymall posted:I know plenty of people who climb 4 or more days a week but none are beginners. I see lots of beginners who are at the gym a lot then dissappear, probably from injury. I never really did much training outside of actual climbing before but I recently started a routine designed to build up arm and back strength (it's basically just repeated sets of weighted pullups) and it's really helping, in spite of not being 100% strict with keeeping to it I can definitely feel improvements already. I've historically struggled to avoid finger injuries so having a way of training which is relatively low strain on fingers while still developing strength is extremely good and I wish I'd started sooner. crazycello posted:It never counts. I was explaining to someone the other day that to truly enjoy climbing you have to be a bit masochistic, because every time you finish a new route you always come up with an excuse for why you need to climb it again, and to actually improve you need to be perfectly happy with failing most of the time you try to do a climb. But of course that's part of the fun, just flashing a bunch of easy routes is boring.
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Apr 28, 2018 20:39
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crazycello posted:Climbing is a futile existence. Au contraire: The Divine Mysteries of the Oromaniacal Quest And what joy, think ye, did they feel after the exceeding long and troublous ascent? - after Scrambling, slipping Pulling, pushing Lifting, gasping Looking, hoping Despairing, climbing Holding on, falling off Trying, puffing, Loosing, gathering, Talking, stepping, Grumbling, anathematising Scraping, hacking Bumping, jogging Overturning, hunting Straddling, - for know you that by these methods alone are the most divine mysteries of the Quest reached.
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Apr 28, 2018 23:10
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What do y'all do for supplemental exercise? Looking to add to my regimine
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May 4, 2018 03:05
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I ride my bike to work and sometimes do yoga.
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May 4, 2018 06:48
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I just finished my first (ever) hangboard program. Steve bechtals one month ladders. I sure got better at ladders! https://www.climbing.com/skills/training-hangboard-ladders-for-finger-strength/ I want to switch it up and do a repeater program next. Does anyone have a simple 4-6 weeks long or so program I can go at? Disclaimer; I've been climbing a long time but never really trained so I can sit in the same room as a hangboard, sipping tea, occasionally glancing over at it and get way stronger at this stage.
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May 4, 2018 13:34
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Hot Diggity! posted:What do y'all do for supplemental exercise? Looking to add to my regimine
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May 4, 2018 13:59
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Hot Diggity! posted:What do y'all do for supplemental exercise? Looking to add to my regimine Are you looking for cross training advice to help with climbing? Or to help with general fitness / strength? Because the two would be very different answers.
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May 4, 2018 14:04
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Mostly climbing. Core in particular aside from plank variations.
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May 4, 2018 23:44
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Obviously, pull up variations. Core-heavy gymnastics: parallettes exercises (L-sit to handstand, planche), flag, handstand push-ups, windshield wipers
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May 5, 2018 01:03
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jiggerypokery posted:I want to switch it up and do a repeater program next. Does anyone have a simple 4-6 weeks long or so program I can go at? Repeater programs are pretty simple: 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off, for 6 reps. Rest 2-4 minutes between sets. Start with 1 set per grip, think about going to 2 sets per grip after 6-8 weeks. Feeling some pump is normal, reduce/relieve weight until you can complete the sets.
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May 5, 2018 02:15
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What kind of warm-up routines do y'all have? I used to just do a bunch of easy climbs but I'm getting a little tired of having painful hips, shoulders, fingers on the regular
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May 5, 2018 02:59
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i broke my pinky six weeks ago and started climbing again last week and man the two fingers that got immobilized are sore in the days between climbs. it hurts to use them for even lightweight day to day poo poo but if they warm up i can climb 100% on them painlessly. i can’t tell if this is good or bad. does anyone have experience with this kind of thing?
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May 5, 2018 04:10
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Picked up a pair of Scarpa Vapor Vs and I love everything about them including the shoe farts
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May 12, 2018 01:43
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Vapor Vs are still my favorite pair of shoes among the four that I've owned so far.
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May 12, 2018 08:23
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I'm personally in love with the furias and dragos
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May 12, 2018 16:20
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Mythos forever and ever!
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May 12, 2018 23:38
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Starting to be able to give real good attempts at most and even succeeding in a handful of v3s and various 5.10s. Exciting!
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May 13, 2018 04:44
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First day trad leading of the season, and I on-sighted Transcontinental Nailway in the gunks in the rain. Granted only the very end was wet, which is a 5.8 runout, but I was still pretty happy with it. Trad is rad.
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May 14, 2018 02:54
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Joe’s Valley is very cool, you should visit if you enjoy boulders. There are a couple airbnbs that cater to climbers, the guy running them is very chill. Housing and pad rentals are very cheap.
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May 16, 2018 22:28
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I'm looking for a brightly colored sleeveless t-shirt / tank for outdoor climbing when it's hot. I prefer merino wool because it doesn't end up smelling rank, but I'm open to other suggestions. All my merino stuff is drab colored. Anyone have any favorites that fit that general description?
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May 17, 2018 12:56
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Photographers like my neon tanks. http://www.americanapparel.com/en/50-50-tank_bb408w
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May 17, 2018 14:44
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tortilla_chip posted:Photographers like my neon tanks. Might have to get a few of those even though they're cotton/poly. The price is hard to argue with.
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May 17, 2018 14:48
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Tippecanoe posted:What kind of warm-up routines do y'all have? I used to just do a bunch of easy climbs but I'm getting a little tired of having painful hips, shoulders, fingers on the regular I do the warmup section of the reddit BWF recommended routine before anything, always + a couple of handstands. https://www.reddit.com/r/bodyweightfitness/wiki/kb/recommended_routine My shoulders, hips, fingers love me for it. Only thing you need is a stretchy band (theraband or something similar). Climbed my first hard trad route on sunday! E7! I've only done 1 E3 before so it was a huge leap up for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWxYZBX3Lgs (Not me in the video, but this is the route)
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May 22, 2018 09:51
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I've gone and done it. I've finally worn through my first shoe. How should I feel about it? On one hand, it seems like a milestone, something to be celebrated, but on the other hand, I know it's because I'm a pissbaby newbie who couldn't stop himself from dragging his feet across the wall.  The timing looks ok though. The REI sale is going on and I'd love new shoes. Plus, I can send off my old ones for resoling, right? I haven't torn through the fabric. Anyone got details on that? Any reviews about these? https://www.rei.com/product/112199/la-sportiva-oxygym-climbing-shoes-mens Also, people who have downsized their shoes, I'm comfortable enough in a size 44 to walk around without pain. I could probably go down to a 43.5. Is there really that much gained by a change like that? I'm pretty sure I'd be ok comfort-wise, but how much control would I gain? Oh, last thing: I haven't gone climbing outdoor and I specifically have only done bouldering. Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 21:32 on May 23, 2018 |
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May 23, 2018 21:25
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For ~$11 off plus whatever discount the coupon gives I'd skip these and just buy whatever pair you actually want for more money. You're likely going to be using them for a long time.
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May 24, 2018 01:03
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