|
Piggy Smalls posted:Is there any good brands for CAT cable? I've run across exactly 1 bad cable in the last 10 years or so to me a cable is a cable For bulk purchases through work I get Corner Products patch cables from our VAR, good quality and less expensive than many others. For home I use whatever is laying around or whatever I ordered from Monoprice. Bulk cable for personal use? Monoprice stuff works fine. Work, we buy Superior Essex cabling. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 22:03 on May 4, 2018 |
# ? May 4, 2018 21:56 |
|
|
# ? Apr 19, 2024 18:27 |
|
Of all the bulk cable I've used for work, the only times we had issues were with the cable not feeding easily out of the box, but never with the cable itself.
|
# ? May 4, 2018 22:15 |
|
Jonny 290 posted:I've swapped it out with a known good 12v 20 amp (yes) power supply set to 12.0 volts and even put an oscilloscope on the +V rail to make sure I wasn't getting noise on the rail. no dice. Just little thing but RouterOS upgrades don't do the firmware - there's a separate thing in Winbox that kicks off the firmware updates. So try that if you haven't. Edit: I am bad at reading when tired, managed to convince myself you were talking about a Mikrotik box. Thanks Ants fucked around with this message at 22:38 on May 4, 2018 |
# ? May 4, 2018 22:32 |
|
Jonny 290 posted:Spouse did mention that it seemed to be locking up faster when she used two devices on the LAN (tv and phone or tv and laptop). i checked and NAT offloading is still enabled and I think working Probably heat death then. ER-X is the little engine that could. They get pretty toasty if they don't get proper room to breath, and they don't have active cooling either.
|
# ? May 4, 2018 22:36 |
|
Piggy Smalls posted:Is there any good brands for CAT cable? Amazon UK and EU have a brand called 1attack that are really good.
|
# ? May 4, 2018 22:43 |
|
I've got an Archer C7 from TP-Link. In the last week or two, there have been three or four times when one or the other of the bands (2.4 or 5 GHz) has suddenly become unavailable. Rebooting the router fixes the problem, but I have no idea what's causing it. We have 3 Windows computers, two Android phones, to iOS devices, a Nest, a Google Home, and a PS3 regularly connected. Occasionally my work MacBook is also connected. What could be going on? Is it time to contact TP-Link and complain?
|
# ? May 5, 2018 16:42 |
|
hooah posted:I've got an Archer C7 from TP-Link. In the last week or two, there have been three or four times when one or the other of the bands (2.4 or 5 GHz) has suddenly become unavailable. Rebooting the router fixes the problem, but I have no idea what's causing it. We have 3 Windows computers, two Android phones, to iOS devices, a Nest, a Google Home, and a PS3 regularly connected. Occasionally my work MacBook is also connected. What could be going on? Is it time to contact TP-Link and complain? That happens with mine from time to time and it is annoying and maybe a common issue with them. Don’t know how they would work with a replacement sine it was so intermittent.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 16:52 |
|
I have found that all in one routers I.e. router, wifi ap, switch, such as the C7, eventually start to go bad and don't do one or more there functions in a stable fashion. I find having stand alone devices, I.e. a router that just routes, a switch that just switches and APs that only do wifi, the most stable way to maintain a network. And this does not have to be expensive either.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 17:19 |
|
Steakandchips posted:I have found that all in one routers I.e. router, wifi ap, switch, such as the C7, eventually start to go bad and don't do one or more there functions in a stable fashion. Could you expand on this? We're going to be walling in a room this summer to move our office, and I'd like to move the router/AP to a place that's more centrally-located and run some Ethernet in the walls while I'm at it, so this may be a good way to go. About what price range are you considering "not expensive"?
|
# ? May 5, 2018 18:59 |
|
For the price of a Netgear Lovecraftian Horror, you could get an Ubiquiti Edgerouter, an AC access point, and a cheap switch if you need more wired ports. You could even use this to put each device where it makes more sense. Router and modem somewhere that you have your cable / Ethernet handy, switch wherever your patch panel goes, and access point mounted high and central.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 19:16 |
|
IOwnCalculus posted:For the price of a Netgear Lovecraftian Horror, you could get an Ubiquiti Edgerouter, an AC access point, and a cheap switch if you need more wired ports. You could even use this to put each device where it makes more sense. Router and modem somewhere that you have your cable / Ethernet handy, switch wherever your patch panel goes, and access point mounted high and central. How do you figure it's the same price? I bought my router (not a Netgear Lovecraftian Horror) for ~$80. The Ubiquity AC alone is that much.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 19:35 |
|
hooah posted:Could you expand on this? We're going to be walling in a room this summer to move our office, and I'd like to move the router/AP to a place that's more centrally-located and run some Ethernet in the walls while I'm at it, so this may be a good way to go. About what price range are you considering "not expensive"? Lets say someone chose to get this: TP-Link AC3200 Tri-Band Wireless Gigabit Cable Gaming Router http://amzn.eu/7KVxeGW It routes, switches and does wifi. None of them very well or very configurable. Total price: £143.84 Alternatively, that person could get: A router: Mikrotik RouterBoard hEX http://amzn.eu/55qNGnl £52.16 A switch: HP J9078-60001 J9078A ProCurve 1400-24G 24-Ports Unmanaged L2 Gigabit Switch https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HP-J9078...119.m1438.l2649 £49.99 An AP: Unifi UAP https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unifi-AP-6545A-UAP/112900106519?hash=item1a495ee917:g:aZcAAOSwCHZasOWy £25.00 Total price: £127.15 The latter three are more stable, configurable and better performing. The AP I chose does not do 802.11AC, but that's pretty irrelevant I find with most wifi devices, and if you are moving huge amounts of files, just plug in to the switch. You could always spend an extra 20 to 40 quid and get the modern version of that AP which does do AC if you really wanted to.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 19:41 |
|
hooah posted:How do you figure it's the same price? I bought my router (not a Netgear Lovecraftian Horror) for ~$80. The Ubiquity AC alone is that much. Buy buying used professional gear instead of new home consumer lovecraftian horror crap.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 19:42 |
|
hooah posted:How do you figure it's the same price? I bought my router (not a Netgear Lovecraftian Horror) for ~$80. The Ubiquity AC alone is that much. High-end routers run $200ish, you can get an Edgerouter X for $50, a non-managed 8-port switch for $25 (obvi more if you need more ports) and then a Ubiquity AP Lite for ~$80-90 that will be better and more flexible. efb with links even.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 19:43 |
|
This man has the right idea:IOwnCalculus posted:For the price of a Netgear Lovecraftian Horror, you could get an Ubiquiti Edgerouter, an AC access point, and a cheap switch if you need more wired ports. You could even use this to put each device where it makes more sense. Router and modem somewhere that you have your cable / Ethernet handy, switch wherever your patch panel goes, and access point mounted high and central. As does this man: Wacky Delly posted:High-end routers run $200ish, you can get an Edgerouter X for $50, a non-managed 8-port switch for $25 (obvi more if you need more ports) and then a Ubiquity AP Lite for ~$80-90 that will be better and more flexible.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 19:43 |
|
Steakandchips posted:Buy buying used professional gear instead of new home consumer lovecraftian horror crap. Ahh, I didn't realize there's much used pro gear out there. Thanks for that. Now to see if TP-Link will refund me...
|
# ? May 5, 2018 19:45 |
|
Switches off eBay are fine, not sure single-band 1st gen Unifi APs are where you want to be though.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 20:34 |
|
Thanks Ants posted:Switches off eBay are fine, not sure single-band 1st gen Unifi APs are where you want to be though. yeah, don't buy the plain "UAP". At a minimum get a UAP-Pro, but really for the price of a UAP-Pro you could probably get a UAP-AC-Lite for just a few bucks more. Also the whole reason why you don't want a all-in-one device is because WiFi is a radio signal, which means you want close to line-of-sight between the AP and your devices as you're comfortable with. Router/firewall/wifi-ap/switch combos are always plugged in next to the modem or internet handoff- not in the center of the room where the WiFi should be.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 21:03 |
|
Thanks Ants posted:Switches off eBay are fine, not sure single-band 1st gen Unifi APs are where you want to be though. They are fine, I have 5 throughout the house and they work beautifully. However, if he wants the latest with 5ghz and 802.11AC: UAP-AC-LITE http://amzn.eu/7Gim4gJ £73.67 Not worth the extra 50 quid IMO, but hey ho.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 21:03 |
|
If I was going to save money on that list, it'd be the switch. If you don't have any need to dick around with VLANs or a huge number of wired ports, a $20 5/8 port gigabit switch will do just fine there.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 21:07 |
|
High end lovecraftian routers are dumb purchases, but I think we're way too eager to push multiple ubiquiti devices in this thread. I wouldn't recommend them over a single normal router for most people unless they needed multiple APs to cover their house. Even for networking geeks the AC-68u with AsusMerlin firmware should do everything they would want.
|
# ? May 5, 2018 23:40 |
|
THF13 posted:High end lovecraftian routers are dumb purchases, but I think we're way too eager to push multiple ubiquiti devices in this thread. I wouldn't recommend them over a single normal router for most people unless they needed multiple APs to cover their house. I disagree, because it is much less about "everything you would want" in terms of functionality (QoS, VLANs, etc) and more about stability and value. In my case, I had an Archer C9 ($90) crap out on me in under a year, and it needed frequent resets before it died. An ERX + UAP-AC-lite was $120, has been stable as a rock, and delivers 2-10x better wireless throughput everywhere in my house. I'd much rather have spent that extra $30 the first time and never thought about my wireless gear again than have the headaches from the consumer-grade all-in-one. Different strokes and all that, but I kick myself for not getting the Ubiquiti gear sooner.
|
# ? May 6, 2018 01:21 |
|
CrazyLittle posted:Router/firewall/wifi-ap/switch combos are always plugged in next to the modem or internet handoff- not in the center of the room where the WiFi should be. Are you recommending an AP per room, or every wireless device be in the same room? Both seem incredibly unrealistic.
|
# ? May 6, 2018 02:34 |
|
I switched to an edgerouter x, switch and ap from an older Asus all in one. Super happy. I no longer have reboots or hiccups. Wish I would've done it sooner.
|
# ? May 6, 2018 03:51 |
|
I’ve said it before but it bears repeating: the best thing I ever did was gave my parents all UniFi gear. Absolutely rock solid and centrally managed. I haven’t had to walk them through a router config page in years.
|
# ? May 6, 2018 06:44 |
|
I upgraded our home network from a faithful, if old, TP-Link Archer D5 to a Unifi AC-Lite and Edgerouter-X this week, in preparation for moving in a few weeks to a house I bought. I figured the time was right, given I'll be getting full FTTH instead of crappy ADSL (yay, Australian internet). Only took five factory resets to get it all set up, as a person knowledgeable in networking basics but who has never done anything serious or tried VLANing. I kept locking myself out of the Edgerouter each time I enabled VLAN awareness, until I looked around on YouTube and found the tip to exclude one interface with a static IP as a dedicated management port. I really wish there was a sequence I could do to force-enable that, rather than blowing away the entire config each time (I had backups, but it was tedious regardless). I now have a nice internal LAN+SSID for my server and trusted machines, a guest WIFI which is fully isolated on its own VLAN, and a IOT WIFI with heavy firewalling to my internal network. Super happy with the gear so far, should have done it sooner.
|
# ? May 6, 2018 08:36 |
|
hooah posted:Are you recommending an AP per room, or every wireless device be in the same room? Both seem incredibly unrealistic. At 25 quid a pop, I have done an AP in each room and it's fantastic.
|
# ? May 6, 2018 09:37 |
|
THF13 posted:High end lovecraftian routers are dumb purchases, but I think we're way too eager to push multiple ubiquiti devices in this thread. I wouldn't recommend them over a single normal router for most people unless they needed multiple APs to cover their house. I disagree. Better that people buy the right things the first time around and never have to fix them or replace them, than buy the lovecraftian piece of poo poo, find out it's a piece of poo poo, and then have to fork out more money to replace it.
|
# ? May 6, 2018 09:38 |
|
Posted last week about my er-x problems. Switched to my Mikrotik. Ooooopsie it's an RB333 with old 3.1 firmware. It started rebooting every 90 minutes until I popped on and realized that even at 5-10 mbps traffic it was 100% cpu....wait, 1-2mbps, nobody in the house is doing anything..... They opened 8080 and turned that loving web proxy on. Got owned. Stay up on your firmware! Line 1 of latest ver is "uhh fixed a thing that lets randoms own your router" Fixed now. Gonna crack my ER-X and look for any bad caps or dust bunnies.
|
# ? May 7, 2018 21:34 |
|
Jonny 290 posted:Fixed now. Gonna crack my ER-X and look for any bad caps or dust bunnies. I think they had a batch that had storage problems. I know I lost one to it. May be your issue, may not, but just figured I'd toss that out there.
|
# ? May 7, 2018 23:24 |
|
The original EdgeRouter Lites had flash drives that liked to die, I’ve not heard of it happening with the other models. There’s a boot loader update available for the ER-X and the SFP variant, but they aren’t documented as doing anything other than stopping all the ports being bridged together during boot.
|
# ? May 7, 2018 23:47 |
|
Thanks Ants posted:The original EdgeRouter Lites had flash drives that liked to die, I’ve not heard of it happening with the other models. You're right, it was an ER-L and not an ER-X. Thanks for catching that.
|
# ? May 8, 2018 00:02 |
|
We're at 2.5hrs uptime on the ER-X with the top case removed. Goddamn thing was just cooking its own brains. Whatever chip that little heatsink is on is toastyyyyyyyy We'll see if it settles down and stabilizes. If so i'll just bolt an 80mm to the top of the open chassis and call er good.
|
# ? May 8, 2018 00:13 |
|
Jonny 290 posted:We're at 2.5hrs uptime on the ER-X with the top case removed. Goddamn thing was just cooking its own brains. Whatever chip that little heatsink is on is toastyyyyyyyy Mine fucks up every few weeks. Maybe I should cool the thing eh.
|
# ? May 8, 2018 00:28 |
|
My (virtualized) pfSense install is at 74 days uptime. It had another 3 months of uptime prior to being brought down 74 days ago to replace a disk in my (virtualized) FreeNAS install.
|
# ? May 8, 2018 00:36 |
|
I bolted a Nanostation Loco M2 to the outside of our RV, ran 13.8 volt PoE up an 80 foot non-outdoor-rated CAT5 cable, and the goddamned thing was at 808 days uptime when I took it down the day before I sold the motorhome. That's what pisses me off most about this - i don't understand why this thing is such a flakelord.
|
# ? May 8, 2018 18:42 |
|
Jonny 290 posted:I bolted a Nanostation Loco M2 to the outside of our RV, ran 13.8 volt PoE up an 80 foot non-outdoor-rated CAT5 cable, and the goddamned thing was at 808 days uptime when I took it down the day before I sold the motorhome. That's what pisses me off most about this - i don't understand why this thing is such a flakelord. Software is not Ubiquiti's strong suit... It takes them quite some time to achieve stability. It is a cycle they have repeated a few times. Nanostations are running a OS developed in house by Ubiquiti. It has had 10 years to mature and for the bugs to get worked out. I guess it also helped that the equipment is/was very popular with WISP operators, who I am sure where quite vocal when things didn't work.
|
# ? May 8, 2018 20:29 |
|
I bought an ERX lite 4 ish years ago. It was dead after the first reboot. After that I just stopped buying their poo poo. On the other hand I've gone through hundreds of Mikrotiks and none have died for no reason. I also far prefer their management. Real easy and straightforward.
|
# ? May 8, 2018 21:01 |
|
While I can appreciate that personal experience is a very powerful force, if you write off a manufacturer because you got one DoA device and didn't even talk to support about it you might as well just pick randomly. I mean, I worked support for a much bigger vendor than Ubiquiti for a while and we had DoA components that cost a lot more than $100 - not commonly, but not never. Even something which was tested before it left the factory could have somehow sustained damage in shipment.
|
# ? May 8, 2018 23:15 |
|
|
# ? Apr 19, 2024 18:27 |
|
I need a wifi pci-e card recommendation please! A few weeks ago I upgraded my connection from 80/15 to 250/30 but now I need a good wifi pci-e card to get most of that speed with my desktop. I currently have a Tp-link Archer C7 (ac1750) with OpenWrt and I had a Dlink wifi card (dwa 582) which worked up to the previous 80mbps but it was poo poo, no drivers, kept dropping, etc. I bought a Tplink Archer T9e (ac1900) card with it ended up being even worse, cant get over 60mbps and there are no drivers for win10, which makes it work like poo poo as well. Right now I have a simple cable running from the router to my pc. The router is in my apartment's entrance, and the pc is in a room like 6m away. The cable is hanging over the door due to the layout of the place, and my wife hates it so it has to go. Is the C7 enough for now for sending 250mbsp via wifi? Which wifi card would you recommend that will allow me to get the most (hopefully full) speed?
|
# ? May 9, 2018 00:40 |