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ufarn posted:Anyone wanna recommend something else than Silent Wings 3 for silent airflow (air-only) cooling before I pull the trigger? I like Noctua PPC 3000 fans. I run them at as low as my motherboard will let them run which is around 650RPM which is silent enough for me, I can't hear them from the 4-5 feet my computer is from me. For XMP I have memory that does 2133-16 at 1.2 volts but just switching over to XMP makes it 2666-14 at 1.35 volts. It can't even do 2400-16 at 1.2 volts, but 1.35 volts is actually validated, for a while I thought 1.35V was just made up but they (generally) actually test the memory at the XMP profile too so it should be safe. I've been running with the XMP profile for over a year now with no problems. I'd turn on XMP first, at least in my case is reset everything to defaults with an Asus X99.
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May 8, 2018 16:42
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I stumbled upon a free Asus A7N8X and MSI nForce4 SLI mobos still in pristine condition, so I am planning to OC a $5 Barton 2500+, $20 Opteron 175 with $10 4GB DDR1 3200 as a retro Win XP build for shits and giggles.
Palladium fucked around with this message at 17:55 on May 8, 2018 |
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May 8, 2018 17:53
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You might be surprised by what it could do, especially the Opteron. My old Pentium M system with 4GB of DDR1 was actually able to run Skyrim and WoW in Windows 10 on an AGP HD4570, although performance was of course pretty terrible even at 720p/low.
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May 8, 2018 18:48
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Palladium posted:I stumbled upon a free Asus A7N8X and MSI nForce4 SLI mobos still in pristine condition, so I am planning to OC a $5 Barton 2500+, $20 Opteron 175 with $10 4GB DDR1 3200 as a retro Win XP build for shits and giggles. gently caress yes. What are you cooling it with?? My friend got a 2500+ to 3GHz by leaving his PC on a windowsill in -5C.
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May 8, 2018 18:52
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XP has pretty poor support for dual cores. It works but it's more down to software support. I'd stick with the Barton for XP. (I'd actually use 2000, but if XP is what you have it's not much slower)
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May 8, 2018 18:54
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:gently caress yes. What are you cooling it with?? I dunno, its actually quite a PITA to find a cheap and good Socket 370/A heatsink now, I should never have thrown away my old Socket A cooler master Aero 7+. In contrast, most of the new coolers are all compatible from the latest CPUs all the way back to S939. And AMD's thermal protection loving sucks on Socket A. Palladium fucked around with this message at 03:10 on May 9, 2018 |
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May 9, 2018 02:49
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Ugh I was so happy when a stranger sponsored me a Athlon XP 1800+ and a Socket A cooler, that I totally forgot about the dreaded bad caps fiasco of the Athlon XP / P4 era. The Nichicon caps on my MSI nForce2 board exploded immediately after power on while the A7N8X was fine for 30 mins until I saw one cap bulging before I cut off the power. Now I'm unsure whether the S939 K8 boards are safe or not.
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May 11, 2018 17:09
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Palladium posted:The Nichicon caps on my MSI nForce2 board exploded immediately after power on I'm sorry dude, but I laughed out loud at that. I should probably get out more.
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May 11, 2018 17:22
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Palladium posted:Ugh I was so happy when a stranger sponsored me a Athlon XP 1800+ and a Socket A cooler, that I totally forgot about the dreaded bad caps fiasco of the Athlon XP / P4 era. The Nichicon caps on my MSI nForce2 board exploded immediately after power on while the A7N8X was fine for 30 mins until I saw one cap bulging before I cut off the power. It kind of depends, I have two 939 boards. One has a couple of bad caps but still works (although I don't use it because I'm sure it will die soon) but the other seems to have no bad caps. I'm still using it for a 32 bit windows 7 install so I can use an old SCSI HP Scanjet 4c.
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May 11, 2018 19:42
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They're through hole caps? They'd be super easy to replace.
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May 11, 2018 20:13
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:They're through hole caps? They'd be super easy to replace. The soldering is easy but finding replacement caps without spending a relative bomb is the hard part.
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May 12, 2018 01:13
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Palladium posted:Ugh I was so happy when a stranger sponsored me a Athlon XP 1800+ and a Socket A cooler, that I totally forgot about the dreaded bad caps fiasco of the Athlon XP / P4 era. The Nichicon caps on my MSI nForce2 board exploded immediately after power on while the A7N8X was fine for 30 mins until I saw one cap bulging before I cut off the power. Some are, I still have an ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe that works fine and has never been recapped, it was the first ‘good’ motherboard I ever bought after years of cheap ones. I recapped a shitload of mobos back in the day; replacement caps weren’t that expensive.
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May 12, 2018 01:25
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Well, I just dropped the x5660 into my x58 board to replace my i7-940 and it wouldn't even post, so obviously the board doesn't support it. Naturally, I got mad at my being dumb, replaced the i7 and overclocked it from stock 2.8 to 3.8.
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May 12, 2018 04:22
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What's the model of your board and is the BIOS up to date?
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May 12, 2018 05:08
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Eletriarnation posted:What's the model of your board and is the BIOS up to date? It's an EVGA 132-bl-e758 sli Revisions 1.2 and up will support it with the latest BIOS. I have an earlier revision which requires a mod -- moving one of those teeny-tiny resistors on the motherboard-- which I doubt I'm capable of doing. The chip was only $30, so it's not the end of the world, but I should have looked this up before I impulse bought it.
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May 12, 2018 05:20
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Are EVGA precision and MSI afterburner the only options for fiddling with your GPU clock/fan? Both of them cause all sorts of weird issues on my pc if I leave them running. Is there a way to set that data in the BIOS and not have to run an app at all?
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May 12, 2018 20:17
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Pre Pascal it's very easy to edit the bios and bake in your overclocking into the firmware. Pascal you need to use one of the apps, they all generally tie into the same points though. Asus GPU Tweak, Zotac Firestorm, MSI Afterburner (My favorite), EVGA Precision, Gigabyte OC Guru, basically any brand you can think of. They're mostly all made by the Rivatuner guy with a different skin for every manufacturer. I think the EVGA one in the most modified and thus the least stable, the MSI one seems to have the least modifications and has been the most stable for me. If you have something pre Pascal let me know and I'll dig out the old guides for doing it all in firmware.
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May 12, 2018 20:34
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Nah it's a 1080. That's what I was afraid of. Thanks though. I wish there was decent app that didn't look like a 90's Winamp skin and cause my computer to poo poo the bed after it's been running for a while (especially if I sleep it and wake it back up).
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May 12, 2018 21:02
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For msi afterburner use one of classic skins, the default one is awful.
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May 12, 2018 22:12
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Well, it's not like you have to run MSI Afterburner manually everytime or on startup to make the OC persistent. Trust me Pascal software OCing is only like a million times better and safer than loving around with the GPU BIOS.
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May 13, 2018 04:31
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Palladium posted:Well, it's not like you have to run MSI Afterburner manually everytime or on startup to make the OC persistent. Really? As in, you can change the clock, close it, and not run it again and the next you reboot it will stay? Hmm, I'll have to reinstall it and try this again.
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May 13, 2018 05:03
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The options there to enable on boot, sure.
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May 13, 2018 06:52
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What firmware issues do you have with your videocards? I've been modifying bioses for years with no issues. It's very easy, takes like 5 minutes and you can flash the bios dozens of times before risking corruption, the chips are designed to be reflashed. Stability test for a couple hours, edit the bios then never pay attention to it again.
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May 13, 2018 13:08
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Dadbod Apocalypse posted:It's an EVGA 132-bl-e758 sli
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May 13, 2018 13:24
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Trying to figure out a cooling strategy for my computer since I'm going to putting more heat in the case soon with a video card upgrade and also want to overclock a bit. Here's my current setup - I overclocked a few years ago but a BIOS update or something wiped it back to factory or something, so setting out again. Case: Fractal Design Meshify Type C Motherboard: Asus Maximus VII HERO CPU: i5-4690k Video card: GTX 1070, probably upgrading to 1080ti Current case setup, apologies for paint.net crappiness.  The fans on the top and left are all Noiseblocker NB-eLoop P12 120MM, and the fans on the radiator are just the stock ones I believe. I did this so long ago I don't remember basically any of my reasoning for anything, but I think I had a plan. I want to upgrade to a 1080ti and also do a bit of overclocking on my processor - nothing insane, just as far as I can get without sacrificing noise too much. My plan is to basically get a pair of 140MM Noiseblocker P14s for the top (I have space for 2x) and then move my current 120s over to the radiator to replace the stock ones. Given the case layout/etc, am I making any major mistakes or would there be any better options? My main goal is to try and have gaming/etc without massive fan noise. Falcon2001 fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Jun 18, 2018 |
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Jun 18, 2018 20:25
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I'd think you'd want to reverse your front fans to pull air in so your H110i could keep your CPU cooler, and reverse the top and rear fans to pull the warm and rising air out. Your entire case interior would be cooler so your fans would be slower. EDIT: I have a Meshify, and the top fans aren't filtered out of the box so you're pulling a lot more dust into your case then you have to with your current config. NeuralSpark fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Jun 19, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 00:33
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Your case has a huge mesh front so air can flow in through that mesh front. Don't use it as an exhaust. More intake than exhaust is fine, it means the dust collects at the (usually filtered) mesh and not on your PC parts, since the rear fan is usually not filtered at all. Your case is made for airflow, so I wouldn't be worried about heat. Maybe you'd want to put your quieter fans on your radiator because those are going to dynamically spin up and down during stress while your case fans are going to generally move at a pretty consistent speed.
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Jun 19, 2018 00:41
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Yeah, I put this fan config together like 2 years ago and I cannot figure out why I did it this way other than aiming for positive pressure. I can probably just get the 140mm fans and run them at a lower speed for generally quieter performance, I assume it'll be better than leaving it as-is. If I were to move the configuration around, which of the two setups would be better: Radiator on top, 3x 120mm on top and back as exhaust, 2x 140mm in front as intake or Radiator in front, 1x 120, 2x140 on top and back as exhausted, 2x120 in front as intake or am I way overthinking this beyond 'I should probably be pulling cool air over the radiator'
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Jun 19, 2018 00:54
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Falcon2001 posted:Yeah, I put this fan config together like 2 years ago and I cannot figure out why I did it this way other than aiming for positive pressure. Is your rad 280mm or 240mm? That should determine whether you put the 140mm fans up front e: oh, h110i, that's 280mm. Throw the 140's up front as intake. mewse fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jun 19, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 01:10
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mewse posted:Is your rad 280mm or 240mm? That should determine whether you put the 140mm fans up front Oh poo poo you're right, I forgot to check that. Solves everything in one go I think.
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Jun 19, 2018 01:24
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Haha, I came here to ask similar about a nxzt h200. Think I'm going to fit a 240mm aio cooler into the front, as intake, and use the top case fan as exhaust. Does that make the most sense for that case too? GRINDCORE MEGGIDO fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Jun 19, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 02:00
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Pretty sure this was the video that sealed the decision for me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNAMxZgvves From what I remember Putting the radiator on the exhaust causes an increase in CPU temps Putting the radiator on the intake causes an increase in GPU temps, because you're heating the air coming into the case What bitwit found in that video is that putting radiator on exhaust caused a much larger increase on the CPU vs the increase on the GPU that you get from putting it on the intake. Basically put radiator on front intake and use rear and top as exhausts
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Jun 19, 2018 03:03
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This is great info. Ty!!
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Jun 19, 2018 05:41
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Just FYI I’ve talked to a lot of people who had issues with that video. I know Jay had a video similar that had the opposite result, his tests were best putting the radiator at the top. I talked to another tech YouTuber I’m not going to name who also wasn’t impressed with it. In general though, rear placement only usually happens for 120mm coolers anyway, a few cases like the old Antec Twelve Hundred have double rear exhaust. Rear exhaust is nice if you can do it because you don’t have cables reaching across the case (and if you have the old cases that assume half a dozen hard drives and two optical drives, you can’t put a rad there anyway). Rear exhaust on old big cases like the Twelve Hundred is also nice because the CPU usually aligns with the lower of the two fans, meaning you can place the radiator with the tubes on the bottom. Having to make your tubes go upward to the top of an intake (a common need because of big honkin’ video cards being in the way) causes the pump to possibly have to work harder and definitely allows for air to get into the tubing, which isn’t good. Ask GN did a question about that last part early in the year. In most mid tower cases, though, you’re going to have to put it on the front or the top, tubes going upward. It’s just the way things are. All in all, you need to be more concerned about GPU temps than CPU temps anyway. The latter only matters if you want to push every 100mhz of overclocking you possibly can and are going as far as delidding on Intel etc. On top of that, CPU throttle points are higher than GPU throttle points, so keeping your GPU cool will have far more real world performance than optimizing for CPU cooling unless, again, you really plan to push the edge of the envelope. It's more likely your GPU is going to be far more finicky about dropping the framerate for temperature, than your CPU is likely to burn out unless you're really playing risky business. Overall, your GPU in a game is not going to heat up the CPU as much as it gets from Prime95 or whatever, and P95 testing doesn't use the GPU for much. So if you can pass a CPU stress test on it's lonesome, and play a game without throttling, you're good for most real world applications, because who the hell is running both components hard simultaneously unless they're crypto mining with both of them. Craptacular! fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Jun 19, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 06:04
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Is anyone generous enough to help me with the Xeon x5660 I just got from eBay? I had a 920 and I was able to overclock that to 3.4 by stepping up the BCLK until it was unstable and then backing down and running benches, but the Xeon chip is not cooperating at all. I am not an expert My mobo is a Gigabyte UD3R-EX58 rev1.6. I updated the bios to the latest version (FK) and reset the bios to "Optimized Defaults" and the xeon boots fine, but if adjust the BCLK up by a single factor it gives me a boot error. Specifically "The system has experienced boot failures because of overclocking or changes of voltages". Am I going about this completely the wrong way? I understand my poo poo is incredibly old, but it was overclocking the 920 fine not even an hour ago, and that had a higher TDP so I would assume it would have been easier to handle the xeon. I turned off HT to see if that made a difference, because I think it made the 920 more stable by just locking it at 3.4, but nope. I don't know what to do from here and was hoping to crank this thing up to 3.8~4.0 because I have a really good air cooler. edit: after looking at another dozen google search results, could it be because I didn't clear my CMOS? apparently this MOBO doesn't have a clear cmos switch and I never bothered to take the little battery out. Could that be it? double edit: Like I said, I'm an idiot, and it's not that simple. I have to short the cmos and I'm not confident enough to try that at the moment having never done it, gonna watch some youtube tutorial vids and read some more forest spirit fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jun 20, 2018 |
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Jun 20, 2018 01:05
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So I turned off the power switch in the back, unplugged everything, took out my graphics card to find the CMOS battery, took it out for 20 seconds, popped it back in, plugged everything in, reset BIOS to Optimized Default settings, restarted, Windows booted fine, then went back to try increasing my BCLK by one from 133 to 134 and see if it would boot, and no. A lot of the results from google are talking about RAM, but it's barely over the 1333 mhz when I increase the bclk. It never gave me trouble before. Am I making GBS threads up this thread or should I take this to the tech support sub forum -yeah, ignore this poo poo, this is more involved and I'm going to ask the support forum. If you read this with your eyes bless ur sole. forest spirit fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Jun 20, 2018 |
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Jun 20, 2018 02:12
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That's super odd. I'm making this post from an EX58-DS4, which I think is virtually the same motherboard, with an X5660 running at BCLK 190 and HT enabled. If you decrease your RAM multiplier such that it's underclocked even when you step up BCLK, does it boot? What about CPU multiplier? Are RAM timings and all voltages on default?
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Jun 20, 2018 04:10
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I have the same mobo as you do, and threw an x5670 in it a couple years ago. I didn’t get the fantastic overclocks that everybody else talks about either, but I can get about 3.5ghz all-core out of it by upping the voltage about .18 volts. Any more voltage just makes the temps go up drastically without helping the frequency limit much.
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Jun 20, 2018 04:10
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Eletriarnation posted:That's super odd. I'm making this post from an EX58-DS4, which I think is virtually the same motherboard, with an X5660 running at BCLK 190 and HT enabled. I just tried to increase my BCLK and I set my ram multiplier so it's below 1333mhz, the ram speed, and nada. I get the same error. I'll post the images I got below, they might help: When booting after the change (pretty sure ram was at 1240 I don't remember exactly atm, didn't take a pic of the settings)  when entering bios:  and yeah, I've tried decreasing just the CPU multi by 1 and increased it by 1, without adjusting anything else, AND trying it while adjusting the ram multi so it's close to the base ram freq. I will try more voltage mods tomorrow, I am a tired dude atm and am gonna get some sleep after troubleshooting. I can't complain too much, the performance is actually noticeably snappier in some apps. Feels like games have a higher min fps, which is nice. e - decided to remove the 4th stick of ram (mobo is triple channel) to see if that did anything, leaving 3 dimms in the white slots. Tried increasing the cpu bclk and adjusting the ram multi so it's below 1333 and nuthin. Screwing with voltages tomorrow forest spirit fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Jun 20, 2018 |
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Jun 20, 2018 05:56
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 So the 4th stick of ram I've been using is 1600 mhz (whereas the mushkin blackline is 1333) and from conventional wisdom, and a shitload of people telling me, that it's not a problem for the mobo (which supports up to 1333) and it will clock down to 1333mhz and work. They have the same timings and voltage reqs. 9/9/9/24 and 1.5v. It working fine has been the case. That's been the case forever with the 920, literally 5+ years, while working with the 920 @ 3.4ghz OC. I kept the ram at/right below 1333mhz with the 920 OC, because I found when testing ram speeds that it wasn't stable with a higher clock speed and I was absolutely fine running it at base clock. Like my edit above, I tried messing the with CPU multi/BCLK/voltage (increasing it by .18 like the suggestion above) with the GSKILL removed, leaving only the 3 mushkin in the triple channel slots, and it gave me the same result, so i'm not positive it's the GSKILL stick. Like I said, I could be wrong though. My next step is going back a BIOS revision. I'm at FK, the latest version, and I'm going to try the revision below it. Could it be when I flashed my BIOS, something hosed up there somehow? edit - HA so switched down to FI, earliest BIOS rev that supported the x5660. I upped the BCLK by 1 to 134 and set the memory to 1140 or something so it was below the 1333 (better safe than sorry) and the motherfucker booted to windows so baby I think we're in BUSINESS edit 2- turned HT off, set BCLK to 140, boots fine, but the OC isn't showing in CPUZ or task manager, but the ram IS adjusted... I'm going to play around a bit more, but I'm not getting the OC?? New problem. forest spirit fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Jun 21, 2018 |
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Jun 20, 2018 23:34
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