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I replaced the intake manifold on my Crown Vic the other day. There's an aluminum crossover on the front going to the thermostat. On this crossover are two large threaded holes, presumably used on some other model but not present on my original manifold. The kit came with two threaded plugs, which I installed. I got em down pretty tight, but today I noticed some dried coolant residue around the edge of the plugs that wasn't there after the first test drive. Clearly I need better sealing; is standard teflon tape appropriate here, or do I need something else to handle hot antifreeze? E: These guys: 
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May 11, 2018 06:20
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Wouldn't a copper crush washer work a bit better than teflon tape? Or would one get in the way of the thermostat housing?
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May 11, 2018 06:29
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STR posted:Wouldn't a copper crush washer work a bit better than teflon tape? Or would one get in the way of the thermostat housing? There's nothing to crush, they're just straight threaded plugs with no bolt head, just an allen drive in the end, like these. 
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May 11, 2018 06:36
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bawfuls posted:Yeah I agree. But the wrench is new and I've used it successfully several times in the past week, including just a few minutes before the original bolt failure yesterday to do the other end of the control arm which is a higher torque setting (90 ft lbs). This is 60: Silly question, but are you wrenching the correct way? I once went the wrong way while a bit too tired and was rushing, didn't hear a click, probably went way over spec.
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May 11, 2018 06:57
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STR posted:Wouldn't a copper crush washer work a bit better than teflon tape? Or would one get in the way of the thermostat housing? Teflon tape works just fine, as does liquid Teflon thread sealer. The WJ has a similar NPT plug on it. Enourmo, those might be for bleeding the system.
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May 11, 2018 07:02
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MrOnBicycle posted:Silly question, but are you wrenching the correct way? I once went the wrong way while a bit too tired and was rushing, didn't hear a click, probably went way over spec.
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May 11, 2018 07:13
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bawfuls posted:I agree it seems high for a bolt that size. Here's the page out of the FSM: I still think there’s nothing wrong with the wrench or with the bolt. It’s just being overstressed. The figure in the manual could be wrong, or it could be based on assumptions that aren’t true. Is it possible that the bolt you broke reinstalling isn’t original? Remember that what you’re actually trying to do is put tension in the bolt. Torque is just easy to measure and makes an acceptable proxy in most cases. Is the hole lubed? Lubrication changes the torque:tension relation so that by the time you hit the torque figure, there is too much tension. Washers can reduce friction and cause the same problem if not accounted for. If it were my vehicle, I would split the difference by getting a high‐grade bolt (which aren’t always preferable but is here) and torquing it to a generic figure for bolts of its size, grade, and treatment. There’s probably nothing wrong with your wrench, but I might use this as an excuse to get a second tool for a second opinion. bawfuls posted:I've done it half a dozen times today, so yes I'm going the right direction. My current theory is that I miss-identified the bolt on the FSM, and these bolts don't have a torque spec. As someone posted upthread, bolts this size should not have a spec at 60 ft lbs, it should be maybe 23ish max. So I torqued them all down to 30 with some loctite and called it a day. That’s possible too. 30 and threadlocker ought to hold. I mean, most people don’t use a torque wrench or threadlocker even when they ought to and it’s unlikely that the design really did call for a higher grade and more expensive bolt. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 07:22 on May 11, 2018 |
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May 11, 2018 07:18
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I want to learn to do my own servicing. I have a 2010 vivaro. Will I be all good with some new oil, a kit like this and youtube? I have no mechanical experience, don't own a jack afaik but am willing to buy one, and struggle to follow basic instructions.
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May 11, 2018 07:21
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jiggerypokery posted:I want to learn to do my own servicing. I have a 2010 vivaro. Since you are in the UK: Opie Oils is an amazing place to get the correct oil in kit form. Great shipping as well. Check the owners forum to see if someone has made a picture guide how to do it. If not, try to get hold of a service manual. Usually someone uploads them on said forums. You'll definitely need a ratchet wrench, and preferably a torque wrench (for the drain plug). You might need an oil filter remover as well. Hard to tell without seeing it. Jackstands, jack etc is required. Fake edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXGs-pjj5hI I found this video. If it's the right vehicle, it should cover it.
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May 11, 2018 08:03
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Thanks! Mine is 2010 but how different can they be right 
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May 11, 2018 08:12
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Platystemon posted:The figure in the manual could be wrong, or it could be based on assumptions that aren’t true. Is it possible that the bolt you broke reinstalling isn’t original? OP stated the bolts are from Home Depot, so there's more than a slight chance they're really cheese grade bolts (despite the stamps). It's gonna cost a bit more, but this is a case where I'd absolutely make a trip to the dealer, or find a dealer that sells online. Or, find a parts diagram with the OEM part number, and hit eBay - there's a lot of parts warehouses that sell OEM parts on there for semi reasonable prices. I'm not gonna trust my suspension to Home Depot bolts (at least try Lowe's  )Enourmo posted:There's nothing to crush, they're just straight threaded plugs with no bolt head, just an allen drive in the end, like these. Oh, whoops. I was thinking typical bolts with a head. Yeah, teflon tape will be fine so long as you wrap it in the right direction. IOwnCalculus posted:Enourmo, those might be for bleeding the system. I was thinking maybe those were for some kind of temp sender? Did any of the 4.6/5.4's have a sending unit in that area? Maybe Dorman thought about people adding an aftermarket sender? (.... okay maybe not, probably for bleeding, or the crossover was adapted from another application that did have senders there...) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:19 on May 11, 2018 |
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May 11, 2018 08:13
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Hobo Erotica posted:I know the Vitara, just don't like it aesthetically as much as the Sierra. Daihatsus are more 4wd true, but they were more used for country 4 wheeling, while suzukis were more for beach fishing generally, so I assume less rust issues in the ferozas which is why I mentioned them, also they had a 1600cc engine. If you really want a sierra I don't blame you, I had good times in them too because my mates owned them. But for real gems (rust free, maybe a 1600cc vitara upgrade) you are going to have to widen your net and maybe travel interstate for a good one - It's the same for any old car these days. When I'm looking for 30 year old cars I'm also looking at airline ticket prices and local transport availability and doing the sums... Fo3 fucked around with this message at 09:54 on May 11, 2018 |
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May 11, 2018 09:52
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jiggerypokery posted:Thanks! Mine is 2010 but how different can they be right https://www.eurocarparts.com/ (always, always use a discount code) https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/ (is the same company)
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May 11, 2018 11:26
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Potrzebie posted:Hello car knowers. I need help, because I'm a dumb. I own and abuse an Opel Vectra 2.0 '06, VIN W0L0ZCF3561058584. PainterofCrap posted:You took good pictures; however, a shot of the location on your car (and the other intact one still in place) might help with ID. Ok, here comes more pictures! I hope they are good enough. The square part is indeed rubber.  This one is on the right side and unbroken.  In the middle of the picture is what is left of the left thing. Potrzebie fucked around with this message at 11:40 on May 12, 2018 |
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May 11, 2018 12:15
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Fo3 posted:Vitara had a 1600cc motor so you weren't constantly thrashing the motor and rowing gears Hah, that's right, my dad's one had a Vitara engine in it. Oh man I hope that hasn't given me an unrealistic impression of what they're like. Ah well. Yep, looks like gumtree with the 'nsw' filter off has 60+! Cheers
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May 11, 2018 15:48
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Action Man posted:Quick question: My wife's old 99 Camry did the same exact thing you're describing, it was air in the coolant system.
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May 11, 2018 16:16
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I bought a 2010 Corolla, quite happy with it so far but the aux input is non functional. Basically the CD/aux button does nothing at all. Can I just replace the button? Any tip for me? Alternately I was looking at replacing the whole thing with one of these: https://m.ebay.ca/itm/Android-MP5-U...e8AAOSwBkRZ5r6D Anybody ever tried one? Are they reliable? Thanks.
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May 11, 2018 16:22
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Colonel J posted:I bought a 2010 Corolla, quite happy with it so far but the aux input is non functional. Basically the CD/aux button does nothing at all. It's not the button. I remember my mom's Prius of the same-ish age being really fiddly about the aux input. I had to hold down the button and press it a bunch and unplug and replug the aux cable and eventually it came to life and has worked normally since. Something to try anyway.
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May 11, 2018 16:52
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STR posted:OP stated the bolts are from Home Depot, so there's more than a slight chance they're really cheese grade bolts (despite the stamps).
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May 11, 2018 17:03
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~new day new idiot problems on my 1977 Datsun~ After the bolt adventure yesterday, front suspension work is pretty much finished. So I started to dissemble the rear today. The internet was right that removing the spindle pins from the rear control arms is an awful process. I got one out (not before kinda loving up the threads at one end of it) and now the other is stuck partially removed. To avoid hammering the end and loving up the threads like I did on the first one, I tried the pull method on this one. I put washers and other spacers over the end sticking out, then tightened the bolt to pull the pin through slowly. This worked for awhile, until it didn't. Current status:  That piece of threaded pipe is the current spacer. But now the nut turns without moving on the bolt. Even when I try to loosen the nut, it just turns and doesn't back out. So I stripped the threads on the nut I guess? The only method left is maybe a lot of heat and hammering the other end with an extension of some kind. I've tried that already though without much luck. A replacement set of pins is $100 so at this point if I have to damage it to remove it I don't really care (probably already have anyway). Any other clever ideas?
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May 12, 2018 02:44
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Try jamming a flathead screwdriver behind the washer while removing the nut. It may catch on whatever threads are left on there and come off.
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May 12, 2018 09:04
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2011 Ford Edge with about 105k miles on it. All of a sudden the brake pedal needs to be lower to guarantee a full stop--I've found myself doing low speed maneuvers like waiting at a fourway stop or stopping in reverse to put in drive where the car is still going a bit when last week it would have been in a dead stop. Braking at speed doesn't seem to be affected at all. I replaced the pads and rotors 25k miles ago. Assuming fluid levels and stuff are fine, what should I be looking for?
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May 12, 2018 13:27
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Hed posted:2011 Ford Edge with about 105k miles on it. All of a sudden the brake pedal needs to be lower to guarantee a full stop--I've found myself doing low speed maneuvers like waiting at a fourway stop or stopping in reverse to put in drive where the car is still going a bit when last week it would have been in a dead stop. Braking at speed doesn't seem to be affected at all. I replaced the pads and rotors 25k miles ago. Bent/broken pedal assembly, bad master cylinder. Does pumping them help?
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May 12, 2018 14:26
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The rear drums may not be adjusting correctly, if you have rear drums.
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May 12, 2018 15:37
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opengl128 posted:It's not the button. Thanks, you've inspired me to fiddle with it some more and it wasn't the button. The aux input is loose and the radio does that dumb thing where it switches out of aux if the wire is disconnected. It always thinks it's disconnected because it's loose so it won't let me switch to aux, but if I hold the connector yanked upwards it works.
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May 12, 2018 16:23
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Colonel J posted:Thanks, you've inspired me to fiddle with it some more and it wasn't the button. Looks easy enough: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GD9ja1Cg0XE https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-86190-02010-Adapter-Assembly/dp/B00FPV8JUC You can probably find it cheaper, google for Toyota 86190-02010
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May 12, 2018 18:14
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2004 Ford Mustang GT, manual 5 speed. Shifting to second is really fucky, if I wait until 2k rpm it violently grinds when I try to slide my stick into second. If its lower then 1.3k rpm the gear might shift into second, it will slightly grind, or it will act like it was put into place but then pop back out of place as I release the clutch. I can reliably take off in second, though sometimes it may pop out of place as I release the clutch, and trying to hold the stick in place as I release the clutch will grind the gear. Now when I first purchased the vehicle ~8 months ago, the second gear was still always kinda weird as if you shifted down too quickly it would grind. However if you would bring it almost all the way down but pause, you would feel something "pop" and you can fully bring the stick down into gear. But ~4 months ago that stopped working and it doesn't seem to matter, the engine will have to go below 1.3k rpm before allowing maybe, possibly allowing me to shift into second. So for now I just skip to third. Is this a clutch issue or a transmission issue?
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May 12, 2018 19:38
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If it's just second, it's probably synchro damage on that gear. If it happens sometimes on other shifts, it could be the clutch not releasing fully.
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May 12, 2018 19:45
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it's just second, it's probably synchro damage on that gear. If it happens sometimes on other shifts, it could be the clutch not releasing fully. Alright, checking for an 04 Mustang synchro kit its about $180. How difficult would it be to change these out for a complete novice to the inner workings of cars? VV Excellent! Leal fucked around with this message at 20:06 on May 12, 2018 |
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May 12, 2018 20:03
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I'm trying to find a meme or picture of someone smirking and going "heh" that won't get me probated, but they're all anime.
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May 12, 2018 20:04
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Leal posted:Alright, checking for an 04 Mustang synchro kit its about $180. How difficult would it be to change these out for a complete novice to the inner workings of cars? To be clear, this requires removing and tearing down the entire transmission to access the physical gear the synchro goes on. It can be done by a novice, if you find a really good walkthrough and you're extremely confident following instructions, but it's one of the more complicated jobs on a car.
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May 12, 2018 20:50
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Enourmo posted:To be clear, this requires removing and tearing down the entire transmission to access the physical gear the synchro goes on. It can be done by a novice, if you find a really good walkthrough and you're extremely confident following instructions, but it's one of the more complicated jobs on a car. So much for a cheap fix  How long can I get away with skipping to third
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May 12, 2018 20:59
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The only limit is your
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May 12, 2018 21:02
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Enourmo posted:To be clear, this requires removing and tearing down the entire transmission to access the physical gear the synchro goes on. It can be done by a novice, if you find a really good walkthrough and you're extremely confident following instructions, but it's one of the more complicated jobs on a car. Also if you can go without the car for anywhere from a few weeks to a few months. Leal posted:
You could try double clutching between first and second. Or blipping the throttle between shifts to match the engine speed with roughly where it should be for the gear and speed being shifted into.
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May 13, 2018 00:40
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My dad had a Hilux when I was a kid and 5th gear got borked so he pulled it out, ground the teeth off and put it back in. 5th was the new neutral. It was less of an issue than losing second, though. That same truck later had the front universal joint for drive shaft suffer an existential crisis. The drive shaft fell off and dug into the dirt road and pole vaulted the rear of the truck and completely trashed the back end. We limped home by putting it in 4 wheel drive and using a coat hanger to pin up anything that wanted to drag. tactlessbastard fucked around with this message at 01:14 on May 13, 2018 |
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May 13, 2018 01:10
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Back to generator talk from a few days ago. Home depot has a Wen 56200i (2000 peak watt, 1600 constant) inverter generator that is getting rave reviews and seems to a honda iSeries killer for less than half the price. $359 which looks to be almost $100 under msrp https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-2000-Watt-Gas-Powered-Inverter-Generator-56200i/205825829
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May 13, 2018 01:57
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I could use some armchair diagnostics. This is for a 2009 Honda Fit with a manual transmission. Anyway, I was out running some errands and suddenly my car started making grinding noises (as if something was dragging on the ground). The grinding got worse and eventually the car wouldn't go any further forward. Curiously, I could put it in reverse, and that didn't seem like an issue, but when I tried to launch from first gear it felt like the parking brake was on, but it at least wasn't engaged by me. The last week or so I noticed some noise coming from the front end when I hit bumps. I thought it sounded like a loose ball joint. I can't say they're related, but it did seem to make that noise then it went into the grinding. A couple people couldn't seem to push it when it was in neutral, and even the tow truck seemed to struggle pulling it forward, again it was in neutral and as far as I know the parking brake wasn't on. So any ideas? I replaced the front brake pads about two months ago and had the drum brakes adjusted about the same time. So I wonder about that, but the one shop was thinking the clutch could be at fault. I'm skeptical of this and definitely won't just take their word for it if that's what they come back with. I'd really appreciate some thoughts on this. Let me know if you need any more information.
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May 13, 2018 02:23
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Check your transmission fluid for starters, have a look around the tranny if you can see anywhere that looks like it may have leaked. Has the clutch gotten soft lately?
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May 13, 2018 02:26
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nitsuga posted:I could use some armchair diagnostics. This is for a 2009 Honda Fit with a manual transmission. I just traded in a 2007 Honda Fit and I highly recommend trading in yours before you spend through two more years. I dropped about $5k on mine in the last two years and if I could turn back time I definitely would've traded it in the first time it hosed up.
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May 13, 2018 02:37
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Breakfast Feud posted:Check your transmission fluid for starters, have a look around the tranny if you can see anywhere that looks like it may have leaked. Has the clutch gotten soft lately? Corla Plankum posted:Trade it in... nitsuga fucked around with this message at 02:57 on May 13, 2018 |
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May 13, 2018 02:52
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