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This is a bit off-topic, but how does one go from a CAD model to glassware? Does some sort of tooling get made from the model?
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May 23, 2018 05:17
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Mr. Powers posted:Ok. That's not terrible "cloud powered" integration. I hate the trend of taking a perfectly usable app and making GBS threads it up by making it run in a browser. Yeah, Onshape is the one that's a web app. The selling point is, you can run it on an ipad? (dear god why) Megabound posted:Fusion 360 is rad, and thanks to how it does licensing (you don't need one unless you earn over 10k a year off it's back) The limit is 100k actually.
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May 23, 2018 05:23
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Mr. Powers posted:This is a bit off-topic, but how does one go from a CAD model to glassware? Does some sort of tooling get made from the model? Absolutely no idea, he has a glass guy for that. We've just reached a deal with the distributor so I think I'll be learning more about that side in the coming weeks.
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May 23, 2018 05:26
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I am sold. I am going to try Fusion 360. I think OpenSCAD would still have a place in my toolbox, but I watched a video and it looks like it's not as much a PITA to get exact dimensions as it was in something like SketchUp.
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May 23, 2018 05:31
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Signal posted:What's the current good/cheap SLA printer? The Form2, for about $3500. Below that price they ain't good.
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May 23, 2018 05:39
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BMan posted:Yeah, Onshape is the one that's a web app. The selling point is, you can run it on an ipad? (dear god why) I think the idea there is the ability to review / comment / design note from anywhere because not everyone who needs to see or review a design is necessarily doing the actual CAD work on a workstation at a desk, but I might be confusing it with something else come to think of it.
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May 23, 2018 05:53
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Sagebrush posted:The Form2, for about $3500. Don't forget the washing and curing stations that take the total cost closer to $8k for useable prints that aren't toxic to handle without gloves.
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May 23, 2018 05:55
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The manual wash station is easy and not messy, you don't need the wash unit. And no curing station is required except for the engineering or dental resins. Automated washer is 645 CAD and automated cure box for the specialty resins is just under 1k CAD. I mean you're right that it's extra cost if you need them but it doesn't bump 3500 into over 8k.
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May 23, 2018 05:59
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Yeah we have a Form2 and for the basic resin the "wash station" is a tupperware container of isopropyl alcohol and the "curing station" is a sunny windowsill. It's easy.
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May 23, 2018 06:05
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Sagebrush posted:The Form2, for about $3500. Ouch. Thank you for the answer, despite it not being the one I wanted to hear. XD
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May 23, 2018 06:07
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I've done nontrivial projects in openscad, freecad, and most recently fusion360. Not massive projects, but nontrivial and mechanical. I learned fusion360 for the cam alone, and at this point, if I were to point someone at a single tool, I'd point them at fusion360. Openscad is the Galapagos of CAD. Use it if you're doing interesting/unusual generative stuff. Use it if opensourceyness is more important than usability. This sounds more ideological than it is. If you're trying to build something on it, it could be incredibly important. Use it if you want something that isn't even slightly cloudbased. The professional free tools are all cloudy. I don't really don't like how cloudy they are, but I've also had it be useful. You think the free tiers might actually go away. Why to not. It's slow to render the high quality models, and the draft quality doesn't do subtraction, which is key to any decent openscad project. This made my workflows slow. Faceted round features are pretty awful. The only possible justification is performance, but see above, and there are reasonable ways of doing non faceted stuff. In a sane world if you wanted faceted round features, you'd call it a polygon. It also doesn't save you from having to triangulate, because those facets are rectangular. The whole variable thing. I just did all the work ahead of time, and used unique names. It's bad, but it didn't get hugely in the way. The primitives you use are absolutely primitive. For example, it's very nice to be able to tell a circle that it should be tangent to other objects. Instead, all you get is center and radius/diameter. You can do the math yourself, if you want it. I hope you like geometry. Same story with constraints. You get to set the math up yourself. Derived geometries, like rounded corners are a massive pain. Build it yourself. These days I mostly use it for very quick hacks on stl files, like adding a peg, or taking a hole out of something. peepsalot posted:Raytraced renders can be computed in the cloud. Also fea simulations. Though I think that cloud renders and solvers costs money? I watched a video where they talked about credits for the cloud solver. Mister Sinewave posted:I think the idea there is the ability to review / comment / design note from anywhere because not everyone who needs to see or review a design is necessarily doing the actual CAD work on a workstation at a desk, but I might be confusing it with something else come to think of it. Fusion definitely touts this, its webtools are definitely for review, and not cadding something up. I think for onshape it's more of a why not, look at the cool thing you can do because we put everything on the browser, and running with it from that end.
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May 23, 2018 06:58
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OpenSCAD draft renders definitely do subtraction. I've been using the nightlies since I started, though, so the stable version from 3 years ago might be a tad out dated. It does have an issue with zero thickness surfaces, though, so unless you over size your parts, there's artifacting where a subtraction should break through a surface.
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May 23, 2018 13:17
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That's good to hear. I was using a more modern one than the three year old build, but I can't say that it's a current one. And it sort of would, it would mark the area as greenish, but it'd still be solid and opaque. It would also leave the old geometry, so you'd get that tearing artifact when 2 surfaces are coplanar.
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May 23, 2018 15:58
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Aurium posted:That's good to hear. I was using a more modern one than the three year old build, but I can't say that it's a current one.
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May 23, 2018 16:00
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Exactly that. Interesting to see that there's a work around in makeing the subtracting shape larger. I always tried to share geometry definitions whenever possible so as to make it more straightforward where different numbers were coming from. It wouldn't also be good to do if you've been defining by an end corner / face / edge rather than center, you'd have to add size and then a translation to your tool shape. And as it notes, final geometry was always fine, so it already works, ugh. Basically, mycomplaintswithopenscad.txt
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May 23, 2018 16:21
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My biggest complaint is that I just learned from that FAQ that they intend it to be pronounced S-CAD and not scad.
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May 23, 2018 16:32
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Sagebrush posted:Yeah we have a Form2 and for the basic resin the "wash station" is a tupperware container of isopropyl alcohol and the "curing station" is a sunny windowsill. It's easy. Yeah, I was looking at SLA printers and wondered what would stop from using a jar full of 90% IPA and a grow light in lieu of an expensive washing station. Glad to know that works if I ever make the jump. Just googling around about it, it seems there's a few printers with good hobbyist reviews in the $1k range. Maybe that will be there next toy that I don't need!
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May 23, 2018 16:45
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Sagebrush posted:The Form2, for about $3500. Are the D7 and Moai that bad? I'd read decent stuff on them.
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May 23, 2018 16:46
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NeurosisHead posted:Yeah, I was looking at SLA printers and wondered what would stop from using a jar full of 90% IPA and a grow light in lieu of an expensive washing station. Glad to know that works if I ever make the jump. Do you want to buy my mostly-assembled SeeMeCNC Drop-Lit with an Acer P1500 projector?
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May 23, 2018 16:52
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The biggest issues with a desktop SLA at this point are the build size and the strength of the finished parts. For most of the things that hobbyists build, a 4x4" bed is not big enough (and that's on the large end -- the cheaper machines build smaller), and the resin is quite brittle. Not like crumble-in-your-hands brittle, but will-probably-chip-if-you-drop-it-on-the-floor brittle, and it gets worse with time. You can coat the parts with a UV protectant that will supposedly help with the aging but that's another processing step. There are also more expensive, tougher resins, but they require direct UV post-curing and so on. It's just a very involved process to make something that needs to be treated like a piece of jewelry -- beautiful and delicate. FDM parts, on the other hand -- I've got a test piece printed with carbon-reinforced nylon and a volcano extruder that I pound with a sledgehammer as a class demo and it's still holding up great. Of course FDM can't compete with the smoothness and accuracy of a well-dialed in SLA. On the Form2 you can print a sliding piston that will pump water with minimal leakage straight out of the machine. There's a reason the commercial and industrial market has segmented itself the way it has: FDM for quick, relatively cheap engineering parts, SLA for delicate highly-detailed appearance models. Personally I wish there were more cheap SLS (plastic powder laser-sintering) machines under development. I find myself needing a machine with total encasement support a lot more than I need 20-micron layers.
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May 23, 2018 17:24
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Sagebrush posted:Personally I wish there were more cheap SLS (plastic powder laser-sintering) machines under development. I find myself needing a machine with total encasement support a lot more than I need 20-micron layers. This video cured me of any desire to have an SLS machine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLSIHSzigPk
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May 23, 2018 17:49
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Oh, yeah, for home use they're terrible. He didn't even mention how the powder gets everywhere and you need a special vacuum cleaner to suck it up because regular vacuum cleaners cool the motor with the exhaust air and if the aerosolized powder goes through the sparks of the motor commutator it can ignite and make your vacuum explode  But the lab I run is a small design school prototyping facility, so something like the Fuse 1 would probably be perfect for us.
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May 23, 2018 18:21
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Mr. Powers posted:My biggest complaint is that I just learned from that FAQ that they intend it to be pronounced S-CAD and not scad. Open source stuff is like fantasy names sometimes, just with fewer apostrophes. Sagebrush posted:But the lab I run is a small design school prototyping facility, so something like the Fuse 1 would probably be perfect for us. That's a cool job! 
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May 23, 2018 18:47
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You could always trawl Ebay for listings like this one and cobble together something if you have the funds. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZCorp-310-Plus-3D-Printer/273205687695 edit: And here is another listing for machines that look like all that's wrong with them in the description is that the power supplies are damaged. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Z-Corporation-310-3D-Plus-System-Printer-w-Powder-Recycling-Station/273214725707 Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 19:53 on May 23, 2018 |
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May 23, 2018 19:44
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peepsalot posted:What material are you printing, and what speed? If its warping from uneven cooling that's causing the layers to separate, then increasing the temperature would only increase the gradient of thermal expansion/contraction and make it worse as you found. Slowing down helps for most printing issues and it should particularly help with interlayer adhesion as well as giving the print more time to cool evenly(with cooling fan speed also reduced). I'll try slowing down and adding a small case fan.
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May 23, 2018 23:18
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Parts Kit posted:Hatchbox PLA at 182 degrees and max of 45mm/s speed on a Monoprice Mini. Printing too cold will also mean your layers aren't adhering to each other, and 182c is quite low for anything I've ever printed, though i stick with cheap crap, since I can't tell the difference.
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May 23, 2018 23:23
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Parts Kit posted:Hatchbox PLA at 182 degrees and max of 45mm/s speed on a Monoprice Mini. A side effect of print cooling fan is that it cools the nozzle to some extent also. You might have better luck with an alternate fan duct, it seems a lot of people are creating their own: https://www.mpselectmini.com/thingiverse/hotend-fan-shrouds (first google result for: MP Mini cooling fan) peepsalot fucked around with this message at 23:44 on May 23, 2018 |
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May 23, 2018 23:40
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The weird thing is I've tried higher temps before and they give really bad results. Even at 200C. I'll give them another shot though.
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May 24, 2018 00:08
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Parts Kit posted:The weird thing is I've tried higher temps before and they give really bad results. Even at 200C. I'll give them another shot though. Do this test. Heat up your nozzle to 200c. From the top of the extruder (where the filament enters the top ) measure up the filament some large amount in mm and mark it either marker or lightly (lightly!) scoring. Start with 60mm. Then either from your lcd controls or something where you manipulate the extruder (like proterface) call for a 50mm extrusion. After the command is carried out, measure from the top of the extruder to the mark. You should get 10mm (60mm - 50mm called = 10mm left) bang on or super super close to it. If you are seeing more than or less than .5 or 1m difference, then your extruder might be under or over delivering. In your case, it might be under delivering creating layer merge issues.
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May 24, 2018 00:21
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I feel like I've stumbled on to some kind of secret to first layer adhesion that never gets talked about. I've been struggling with getting some PLA to stick to my aluminum build plate. Painters tape, glue sticks, bare metal weren't working even after leveling all four corners to the best of my ability. I needed a print asap so I got annoyed and threw some printer paper on it. This is the best print surface I've ever used. It sticks perfectly. So well in fact I can't remove it from the plastic. No big deal with a raft though. It's one and done but a ream of paper doesn't cost much and will last hundreds of prints. Plus your print lines are nicely contrasted to help verify you leveled correctly. http://i.imgur.com/LwtX1Bp.jpg Slightly blurry, sorry. Camera doesn't like motion. Is there any good reason not to do this? Great Beer fucked around with this message at 02:12 on May 24, 2018 |
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May 24, 2018 02:09
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Nope, if it works, it works. My favourite is people who print nylon onto denim. poo poo just works
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May 24, 2018 02:17
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Hah, thats cool. I've never seen that before
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May 24, 2018 02:24
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If you print something warpy, the paper will lift off the build plate with no resistance.
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May 24, 2018 02:25
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BMan posted:If you print something warpy, the paper will lift off the build plate with no resistance. no the paper is glue sticked to the bed 
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May 24, 2018 02:29
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bring back old gbs posted:no the paper is glue sticked to the bed I dont know if you were joking or not but this is genuinely what Ive done.The glue sticks ive got are basically post-it note glue. Its holding the paper on there surprisingly well.
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May 24, 2018 02:32
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Great Beer posted:I dont know if you were joking or not but this is genuinely what Ive done.The glue sticks ive got are basically post-it note glue. Its holding the paper on there surprisingly well. It's exactly what I would do too, it just felt silly to type. Then let the print sit in some warm water for a bit to soften the glued on paper and it all slides off.
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May 24, 2018 02:39
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I got some of that esun pla+ in fire engine red and it's absolutely my new favorite. The layer adhesion is a huge step up from the inland stuff I've been using, and it's still cheap.
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May 24, 2018 03:22
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n/m
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May 24, 2018 03:27
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:I got some of that esun pla+ in fire engine red and it's absolutely my new favorite. The layer adhesion is a huge step up from the inland stuff I've been using, and it's still cheap. I'd say eSun PLA+ is the easiest, cheapest material for just printing stuff. I've never been disappointed and I get great prints out of it every time.
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May 24, 2018 19:29
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Great Beer posted:I feel like I've stumbled on to some kind of secret to first layer adhesion that never gets talked about. I've been struggling with getting some PLA to stick to my aluminum build plate. Painters tape, glue sticks, bare metal weren't working even after leveling all four corners to the best of my ability. I needed a print asap so I got annoyed and threw some printer paper on it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=515-EfhXne0 porksmash posted:I'd say eSun PLA+ is the easiest, cheapest material for just printing stuff. I've never been disappointed and I get great prints out of it every time. I have been using it exclusively (and some eSUN PETG) since I got my Maker Select Plus. the only print failures I have had have been related to leveling, and are caught and fixed very quickly. Speaking of which, any Select Plus / i3 Plus users using ADVi3++ firmware? I put the firmware on last week and it is working well. I am going to try to install the BLtouch sensor this weekend.
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May 24, 2018 20:17
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