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Buy an impact (or a pulse driver if you’re doing Ryobi) and start using star-drive screws and never look back
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May 23, 2018 05:01
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Now that we're all kind of in agreement.. Make sure to get a set of impact rated bits in case you're ever sending a screw through metal, or anything really I'm off to bed argue away 
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May 23, 2018 05:13
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Yeah, the impact driver is a lot more convenient than I gave it credit for before I had one. Sure, a drill is technically more versatile in that it can grab anything, not just things that have a hex shaft, but between the lighter weight, shorter profile, and better power, the impact driver is a lot more pleasant to use. And there are plenty of impact-rated bits out there.
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May 23, 2018 05:35
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I also have the most common drill sizes 4-6mm in hex shank, which can be quickly used with the impact for small drilling tasks. Also get a counter sunk hex shank drill bit or two for when you want to get fancy with the pre drilling. Examples (just to show the type, not recommending the particular brand or model): https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW255...hank+drill+bits https://www.amazon.com/Countersink-...its+countersink
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May 23, 2018 08:17
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I recently just buckled and bought both, and since I'm in Europe everything is more expensive as well as harder to get hold of brands like Milwaukee, Makita and DeWalt at anything less than eye-gouging prices. I elected to go for Blue line Bosch 12v drill and impact drivers. I love the size and how they feel to hold. I'm waiting for a Bosch bit kit before I can give them a test run. I figure they'll be way above anything I'll need to do as a home owner, and the impact will serve me well for automotive use and save me so much time removing screws and bolts. I don't really care about having the power to break bigger poo poo loose since I have an air impact / breaker bars. It's the drat time it takes to manually unscrew 10 screws for the aero-panels while on my back under the car that's the biggest annoyance.
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May 23, 2018 08:18
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Yeah having a 12v impact driver on hand with a couple of decent bits is the tits. It really takes the hassle out of a lot of little jobs around the house. Recently I had to remove all the striker plates on the doors because they were blowing open, it would have been a pain in the rear end with a regular screwdriver. Mine has been fine for driving 100mm battens through seasoned timber too. I wouldn’t want to do it all day long by it was fine for the 8 or so screws I needed to put in.
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May 23, 2018 14:31
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devicenull posted:Impact drivers are game changers really. Definitely worth having. It's basically "oh I have this fastener I want in/out, let me grab the impact". Mine gets a ton of use, even for generic household tasks (like.. assembling Ikea crap) I feel like a driver would completely pulverize whatever Ikea thing you're trying to assemble.
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May 23, 2018 15:13
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I assembled an Ikea kitchen recently with a makita impact. No problems. Just set the power setting on low and stop driving when the screw is in. Pretty sure the low torque setting is exactly for stuff like that.
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May 23, 2018 15:52
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ehhh most have pretty good variable triggers and mine has a torque limiting function or something along those lines. As long as you're not a total ham fisted oaf you should be fine.
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May 23, 2018 15:56
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Theres real good reason that the basic kit you see all the time is a basic drill and an impact driver. It covers all the normal homeowner basics just fine.
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May 23, 2018 16:03
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Rnr posted:I assembled an Ikea kitchen recently with a makita impact. No problems. Just set the power setting on low and stop driving when the screw is in. Pretty sure the low torque setting is exactly for stuff like that. Pretty much, you just need to be a little more aware than usual and its much easier
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May 23, 2018 16:16
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What do you guys use for depth stops on drill bits?
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May 23, 2018 23:44
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:What do you guys use for depth stops on drill bits? blue tape Harry Potter on Ice posted:Pretty much, you just need to be a little more aware than usual and its much easier this but also make sure you use pozidriv bits for anything that looks like a phillips head
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May 23, 2018 23:52
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Crosspost from the Home Spergin thread:Hubis posted:Well, I found a great use for my FlirOne thermal camera! Hubis posted:The FLIR One is $200, which is expensive and I'd say the usefulness doesn't quite justify the price but is ok if you can also justify some "toy" value as well.
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May 24, 2018 00:25
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:What do you guys use for depth stops on drill bits? There are sets you can buy with different sized circular stops. Or you can get a 1x1 chunk of wood, drill through it to the chuck, set the bit accordingly.
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May 24, 2018 00:25
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:What do you guys use for depth stops on drill bits? BraveUlysses posted:blue tape blue tape is the way to go, those circular collars are a pain in the rear end imo, I hate getting out a little allen wrench and messing with them they always seem to slip
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May 24, 2018 01:37
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:blue tape is the way to go, those circular collars are a pain in the rear end imo, I hate getting out a little allen wrench and messing with them they always seem to slip They'll also mark your wood if you aren't careful. I think my set has like 3 different allen wrench sizes to make it even more annoying. For some reason I keep using them though.
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May 24, 2018 02:23
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Why does the colour of the tape matter?
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May 24, 2018 14:06
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Steakandchips posted:Why does the colour of the tape matter? it doesnt i dont know if anyone really buys plain masking tape any more because it's so inferior compared to blue tape
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May 24, 2018 14:24
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I have literally never seen blue tape for sale here in the UK.
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May 24, 2018 14:30
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Steakandchips posted:I have literally never seen blue tape for sale here in the UK. Looks like you're screwed then.
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May 24, 2018 14:43
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Steakandchips posted:I have literally never seen blue tape for sale here in the UK. It's painter's tape. I think I've seen it in green, but it pretty much always blue. Wide and blue masking tape. In other news, like a moron I hit a screw head with my round over bit 
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May 24, 2018 14:48
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Painters tape is yellowish here.
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May 24, 2018 15:00
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Haha, cool, will just use masking tape most like.
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May 24, 2018 15:21
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Steakandchips posted:I have literally never seen blue tape for sale here in the UK. afaik the blue is a branding gimmick in the US so it's no surprise you don't see it elsewhere.
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May 24, 2018 17:23
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Hubis posted:afaik the blue is 
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May 24, 2018 17:25
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SEKCobra posted:Painters tape is yellowish here. Piss tape...is real?
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May 24, 2018 17:42
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Hubis posted:afaik the blue is a branding gimmick in the US so it's no surprise you don't see it elsewhere. Yea you dont need to buy the 3m stuff but most painters tape is blue and you definitely dont want to be using normal masking tape to paint tangy yet delightful posted:Piss tape...is real? The signs are everywhere
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May 24, 2018 17:56
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rockler's got their blue bar 36inch clamps on for 25 bucks right now, plus 15 percent off everything else
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May 24, 2018 18:13
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bobua posted:rockler's got their blue bar 36inch clamps on for 25 bucks right now, plus 15 percent off everything else I have never used this style of clamp before. Are the Rockler branded ones worth picking up over the $11.99 version from Harbor Freight? From what I've read, the HF ones can be a bit weak, but if you insert a piece of wood inside the hollow channel, this solves that problem. Typically I snag the Bessey F-style clamps when they go on sale, but having something that I could lay on a workbench and then position the material inside the clamping area would be super nice. That or Home Depot dropped their price on Bessey Parallel clamps, so you can snag the 50" for $39 or 24" for $35 which could be another option for my needs.
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May 24, 2018 20:04
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Honestly not sure, but I'm so clamp poor I grabbed 4, will report back. I own 2 harbor freight clamps and they make me sad every time I use them.
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May 25, 2018 01:28
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I’ve got to drill approx 25 holes through a double course of extremely hard engineering brick, and the cheap cordless hammer drill I’ve got is doing it but extremely slowly and keeps overheating. Is it worth getting an SDS+ drill to do this job, and any recommendations? I’m UK based for what it’s worth. I’ve looked into hiring one and locally at least its looking to cost nearly 2/3 of the cost of just buying one.
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May 25, 2018 13:05
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Makita, you can pick up a corded one for under a hundred quid.
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May 25, 2018 13:49
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In the US, you can get a corded demolition hammer drill starting around $200. Brands don't really matter for your application as long as its a reputable brand. Besides Makita, there's Hilti, Hitachi, Bosch, dewalt, etc. The should be in an elongated or wide form factor compared to a regular drill.
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May 25, 2018 17:37
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Vitamins posted:I’ve got to drill approx 25 holes through a double course of extremely hard engineering brick, and the cheap cordless hammer drill I’ve got is doing it but extremely slowly and keeps overheating. Is it worth getting an SDS+ drill to do this job, and any recommendations? I’m UK based for what it’s worth. You're using a liquid as lube right? Corded would definitely help. RIP that drill
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May 25, 2018 17:51
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MrOnBicycle posted:Bosch My blue Ryobi drill with the (formerly)biggest green battery does everything I need it to, but I impulse-bought a pre-reunification Bosch corded one at a pawn shop for $20. The thing's a beast, but has a bit of a wobble, as if the shaft were bent. Is there a chance it's just the bearings, or is she totally fuckerated?
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May 25, 2018 18:46
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Here are two pages of different makita rotary hammer drills. Go to town: https://www.fastfix.co.uk/makita-cordless-tools/makita-sds-plus-drills.html?p=1 My brother gifted me the DHR243 after he had worked on boring the holes for stone fasteners for twenty road bumps in his allotment allotment association. I used it to drill the 22mm holes through the 15x15cm columns in the car port I built, to tie into the 115x333mm glulam beams carrying the roof structure. I suggest you find a similar drill used, they can last a long time. Or if you're not exactly building a new structure, then a drill from the 10v line will probably do just fine, lots of people in the trades use those too, when the heavier stuff is just needlessly heavy.
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May 25, 2018 22:41
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Vitamins posted:I’ve got to drill approx 25 holes through a double course of extremely hard engineering brick, and the cheap cordless hammer drill I’ve got is doing it but extremely slowly and keeps overheating. Is it worth getting an SDS+ drill to do this job, and any recommendations? I’m UK based for what it’s worth. How old/new is the bit? If the carbide tip is worn, a new drill won't really be much of a help.
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May 25, 2018 23:30
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Vitamins posted:I’ve got to drill approx 25 holes through a double course of extremely hard engineering brick, and the cheap cordless hammer drill I’ve got is doing it but extremely slowly and keeps overheating. Is it worth getting an SDS+ drill to do this job, and any recommendations? I’m UK based for what it’s worth.
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May 26, 2018 01:16
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OK so I've just bought 300m of cladding and I'm gonna need to cut it. So, power mitre saw, right? If you have any specific recommendations that'd be splendid, but more practically are there any features of a mitre saw that you feel I should be looking for? While I'll only be doing a few actual 45 degree mitres, I'm told the best way to lap the boards lengthways is with a scarf joint, and there'll be lots of those. Uncut lengths around 4m.
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May 26, 2018 12:55
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