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X-29 trip-report The kit is quite nice. Lot's of surface detail, no mold-lines, very good fit, there were just a few sinkholes in unfortunate places, i.e. visible from the outside and difficult to fill due to surrounding details. I think I did reasonably well in putting things together. The area around he air-intakes was tricky to get smooth, though, and I'm not really satisfied with my results there. It doesn't really show up on the picture, because the white plastic has so little contrast.  I tried using primer this time around, as I had trouble with the acrylic paint flaking off when weathering or applying decals on previous builds. This seems to have worked alright, but drat, does the primer ever smell terrible.  I also had a go at pre-shading, It may surprise you, but it didn't take forty years of hard drinking to paint lines this crooked. I can do that just fine without delirium tremens.  End-results are mixed: Not being entirely flat white surely helps the visual appeal, but I was a bit heavy handed and the plane looks like it's been wallowing in some oil-puddles behind the hangar. At least the rally stripes distract from this due to their high contrast. The stripes are all decals, which is for the better, as painting those lines by hand would surely have ended in disaster. Applying the deals wasn't totally easy either, they are quite large and thin and I had to use what felt like gallons of softening solution to make them conform to the curved surfaces. I managed to tear more than one (prominently the long central stripe on the right side), but largely manages to align the fragments to still keep a reasonable overall appearance.    Overall good fun. Nevertheless, at basically every step of the build I had the impression that I should be able to do better. I guess I'll need more practice. There's still a few more of the X-series planes that I'd really like to do (for example the extremely pretty X-36). Or comdey-option X-32
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Jun 3, 2018 08:52
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Looks great except you put the wings on backwards
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Jun 3, 2018 08:58
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 I have multiple kits that are mostly done, but I couldn't stop myself from starting on the latest arrival. Rex is a Bandai-style no glue required kit. It's been a joy to put together. Fully posable, with a full cockpit. It came with a solid snake, a liquid snake, and two Gray Foxes: one standing, and one...prone.  I intended this to show all the cool articulation, but you can also see two more of my WIPs in the background there Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Jun 4, 2018 |
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Jun 4, 2018 03:28
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Kurvi Tasch posted:X-29 trip-report Nice work! If you're not happy with the starkness of the preshading, you could always use a lighter grey color on the next kit. Or maybe try out blackbasing. Blue Footed Booby posted:I have multiple kits that are mostly done, but I couldn't stop myself from starting on the latest arrival. I've had my eye on that kit for a while, looking forward to seeing yours finished.
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Jun 4, 2018 03:56
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Blue Footed Booby posted:
Metal Gear?! Got some work done on the Gorch Fock Since the last time we saw her I've finished the second planking for the most part. Also the inner sides of the bulwarks were kitted out.   
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Jun 4, 2018 11:48
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Blue Footed Booby posted:
How well does the Rex kit turn out without painting? I keep thinking about getting one.
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Jun 4, 2018 13:31
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Neddy Seagoon posted:How well does the Rex kit turn out without painting? I keep thinking about getting one. If you don't have the supplies for painting, even a basic slate gray spray primer would look better than bare plastic. Maybe run a technical pen down the seams like people do on gundams, and you'd get a decent finish with little effort or expenditure.
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Jun 4, 2018 17:07
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Greyhawk posted:Metal Gear?! Lovely work. How are you measuring your stealers? I have a suspicion that I have at least a couple coming up for Bluenose and I'm wondering what the best practices are.
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Jun 4, 2018 17:55
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Symetrique posted:Nice work! If you're not happy with the starkness of the preshading, you could always use a lighter grey color on the next kit. Or maybe try out blackbasing. Those sound like good ideas, will try at the next occasion!
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Jun 4, 2018 18:17
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Fearless posted:Lovely work. How are you measuring your stealers? I have a suspicion that I have at least a couple coming up for Bluenose and I'm wondering what the best practices are. I really don't measure them at all. One of the nice things about modeling a ship with a steel hull is that the entire thing gets covered in filler and primer once the hull is built and none of the "beams" will be visible anymore. So I just lay down planks the way they want to lay down without going all wonky and then fill up the naturally occuring gaps afterwards by cutting some planks to shape. Actually just finished doing that last part. 
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Jun 5, 2018 00:48
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If you don't have the supplies for painting, even a basic slate gray spray primer would look better than bare plastic. Maybe run a technical pen down the seams like people do on gundams, and you'd get a decent finish with little effort or expenditure. There's a couple colors of plastic and a handful of shiny "metallic" parts. It'd look ok with a layer of rattle can dull coat (remove the shiny bits first), pen in the panel lines, and then maybe some pastel/powdered pigment/actual dirt. Edit: You could also pop off the body panels and spray primer those while leaving the lighter plastic bits bare or just with dull coat. The light parts dont show the sprue attach points as sharply. It's also worth mentioning that a large portion of those panel lines are actually seams between panels, especially on the legs. If your hands are as shaky as mine it might be easier to detach panels and run a sharpie over the edge rather than trying to draw on a complete model. Edit 2: in case it isn't clear I've painted literally nothing on that model. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jun 5, 2018 |
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Jun 5, 2018 03:29
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Blue Footed Booby posted:If your hands are as shaky as mine it might be easier to detach panels and run a sharpie over the edge rather than trying to draw on a complete model. how are you working on a Metal Gear Solid kit not hopped up on diazepam?
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Jun 5, 2018 05:06
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Either that or you can vomit back up the cigarettes you hid in your stomach and smoke them. contact me on 140.85 for more information
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Jun 5, 2018 10:07
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I've discovered the euphoric pleasure that is model paints in an areosol can. Makes life so much easier, especially since my airbrush is a cheapo one that runs off off air bottles, and is frankly poo poo. Also, update on the train layout! The harbor area/ mountain is starting to look almost presentable. Potato photos incoming.    Nothing is glued down yet, except for trees. The water is just a quick job to help visualize what's happening. Major additions include the submarine, the harbor crane, the mountain side greenery (more to be added), and there's mockups of the loading ramp and fuel depo in place.
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Jun 5, 2018 10:12
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That's dark
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Jun 5, 2018 11:04
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N17R4M posted:I've discovered the euphoric pleasure that is model paints in an areosol can. Please don't huff paint, it's not worth whatever high it's giving you. 
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Jun 5, 2018 11:27
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Please don't huff paint, it's not worth whatever high it's giving you. <taps thread title>
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Jun 5, 2018 12:57
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Yeah, don't huff paints. Huff Testors glue. The kind in the orange tube.
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Jun 5, 2018 17:14
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I dunno man, Tamiya paint smells so good I almost want to do a shot of it when I'm painting.
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Jun 5, 2018 17:55
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Wait, you guys dont clean out your airbrush by just sticking it in your nostril and cranking up the PSI?
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Jun 5, 2018 18:02
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Lizard Combatant posted:<taps thread title> God dammit  .
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Jun 5, 2018 18:06
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Blue Footed Booby posted:
Where's the Rex from? Its lovely.
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Jun 5, 2018 18:31
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PriorMarcus posted:Where's the Rex from? Its lovely. Kotobukiya. They also have a MGS4 version of REX.
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Jun 5, 2018 18:45
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NTRabbit posted:That's dark It's actually a reference to a tv job we did earlier this year. Having taken a good hit of paint, today I continued. Built the loading ramp, and fuel depo, placed a house in a new spot and filled out it's garden, and I sunk the rails into the ground in the harbor area. Or rather I slopped modeling clay over the rails, to raise the ground. Potatophotos to hide the horrible glue spills everywhere.     I also added some figures, trees, and misc details to better get a feel for what it will be like when done. For the moment, all the kits are built without the detailing added (railings, deck gun on the sub, etc), so it doesn't get broken while stuff gets moved around and worked on. Next steps include adding more clay to level out the ground in the entire harbor area, then fence it off, and add gravel to the mainline passing through there, finish the road that runs along it, and work on the town adjacent to the harbor (not pictured). e: vvvv  Nah, I just wanted to squeeze something similar into the diorama. N17R4M fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Jun 5, 2018 |
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Jun 5, 2018 20:23
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N17R4M posted:It's actually a reference to a tv job we did earlier this year. Ah ok, I thought it was a reference to the thing in Denmark, and that someone had already made a diorama kit for it
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Jun 5, 2018 20:59
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Symetrique posted:Wait, you guys dont clean out your airbrush by just sticking it in your nostril and cranking up the PSI? Word. When I smell that cloud of polyphenols, I definitely got Plentiful Snorts Incoming.
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Jun 5, 2018 22:53
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Stressful day? Just let that pure leveling thinner level out your mind, bro.
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Jun 6, 2018 00:03
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Squadron Green Putty is what you need. It doesn't work that great as a putty but that toluene smells oh so good.
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Jun 6, 2018 04:00
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Poorly lit WIP shots of a 1/72 Tamiya Razorback. Posting these before I do something dumb with weathering. Haven't put on the pitot tube yet because I know I'll end up breaking it off if it isn't the last thing I glue on the model (I've snapped off and re-glued the dorsal antenna about five times now).   
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Jun 6, 2018 04:58
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Scharnhorst issue 47 The next batch of second planking goes up on the sides of the hull from the fore ship to midships.
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Jun 6, 2018 09:09
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Midjack posted:Kotobukiya. They also have a MGS4 version of REX. MSG4 Rex is pretty great, its probably my favorite robot design in general.
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Jun 6, 2018 11:54
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Question: do compressors matter? I have the one that seems to be the standard rebrand, (abet with a pressure regulator and a moisture trap) and initially it was brilliant, but now it doesn't work very well.
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Jun 6, 2018 18:01
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Anyone have any tips or tricks for masking canopies? I *thought* my poo poo was taped off pretty well, but I was dead rear end wrong.
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Jun 7, 2018 01:51
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Nebakenezzer posted:Question: do compressors matter? I have the one that seems to be the standard rebrand, (abet with a pressure regulator and a moisture trap) and initially it was brilliant, but now it doesn't work very well. In my personal opinion, this is one of those 'you get what you pay for' sort of areas. I've heard lots of early failure and other bad experiences with the cheapo compressors, but never a bad word about Silentaire or Iwata Studio Series (Power Jet, Power Jet Pro). You definitely do not get either of those on the cheap though.
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Jun 7, 2018 04:52
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I've got the Power Jet Pro, and though pricey, was completely worth it. Very quiet, good sized tank, runs two airbrushes, and is virtually maintenance free. Great investment, as it'll likely last a lifetime.
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Jun 7, 2018 05:07
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I managed to solve my glitchy airbrush issues thanks to whichever one of you is notsymmetrical on reddit, turns out the #1 needle was too long and I had to pull it back for even any cleaner to come out. Maybe Paasche isn't that bad after all.
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Jun 7, 2018 05:49
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I wonder who it could be!EdsTeioh posted:Anyone have any tips or tricks for masking canopies? I *thought* my poo poo was taped off pretty well, but I was dead rear end wrong. When I masked the canopy on my 1/144 Zero I used Mr Masking Sol R, a liquid mask product that can be thinned with water. It worked sorta ok but the edges couldve been neater, and it had to be tidied up with a brush after peeling off the mask. That technique only works with really well defined canopies though, since you're using the liquid tension to keep the mask in the frame. Its supposed to be possible to cut this liquid mask, though I havent had any success with that. For the 1/72 P-47D Razorback, I tried using Bare Metal Foil. Since its so thin, its easy to just cut along the canopy frame with a sharp scalpel. Not sure how it turned out though, since I have yet to pull off the foil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9PPYEbwPRU&t=27s
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Jun 7, 2018 06:02
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 BTTF3 DeLorean, Aoshima kit. I'm liking the Tamiya synthetic lacquer spray can silver I put on the body. The chassis is Tam acrylic airbrushed black, testor's dullcote, and Tam acrylic brushed detail.
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Jun 7, 2018 06:49
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EdsTeioh posted:Anyone have any tips or tricks for masking canopies? I *thought* my poo poo was taped off pretty well, but I was dead rear end wrong. spray it with future before you spray with paint. use a knife to cut around the tape before you try to lift it so it doesn't take any extra paint with it.
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Jun 7, 2018 07:29
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EdsTeioh posted:Anyone have any tips or tricks for masking canopies? I *thought* my poo poo was taped off pretty well, but I was dead rear end wrong. What happened?
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Jun 7, 2018 11:04
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