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punk rebel ecks posted:I see. If you're buying a gaming rig, 1440p high refresh rate is pretty much the best option right now. UI scaling in games is frequently wonky or nonexistent, you pretty much need a 1080Ti to game at 4K, and a 4K monitor with G-sync (which you will want because even a 1080Ti might have some stuttering at 4K 60fps) is going to be really expensive. Once the next generation GPU's and 4K high refresh rate monitors with G-sync that don't cost $2500 are out, this might change, but if you're considering a monitor upgrade in the near future, just make it 1440p. On the other hand, a plain 27" 4K 60Hz IPS monitor without G-sync isn't particularly expensive (you can get them for around $500 or so) and it is very nice and sharp for productivity work. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Jun 14, 2018 |
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Jun 14, 2018 17:37
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dy. posted:I have a "have my cake and eat it too" question. You can put a small AIO cooler on your GPU with the NZXT G12 bracket. That's what I had to do for my Define Nano case. I'm glad I did it anyway because it's orders of magnitude quieter and cooler than the heatsink/fans that came on my EVGA 1080 FTW. Used the corsair H55.
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Jun 14, 2018 17:42
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Win 10 is required on any Intel CPU past 7th Gen. There hasn't been any indication that Win7 keys have stopped working with W10, so there is no reason to pay extra for W10 license, unless you are a business. And since the only risk is that you lose the 5-10 bucks those keys cost and have to buy another key, there is not much reason not to take the chance. It's the easiest way to save money with a new computer.
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Jun 14, 2018 17:56
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MaxxBot posted:I would do something like this, should work really well at 1080p for quite some time. I included a pretty basic case you can go fancier if you want. That looks good and a simpler case works better for me (I learned the hard way about big/fancy cases and umpteen bajillion heavy-rear end and excessive fans when I fell carrying my old monster down the stairs  ) I might fiddle a bit but your setup looks solid.
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Jun 14, 2018 18:03
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TheFluff posted:If you're buying a gaming rig, 1440p high refresh rate is pretty much the best option right now. UI scaling in games is frequently wonky or nonexistent, you pretty much need a 1080Ti to game at 4K, and a 4K monitor with G-sync (which you will want because even a 1080Ti might have some stuttering at 4K 60fps) is going to be really expensive. Once the next generation GPU's and 4K high refresh rate monitors with G-sync that don't cost $2500 are out, this might change, but if you're considering a monitor upgrade in the near future, just make it 1440p. Thanks. I'll wait four more years or so.
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Jun 14, 2018 19:21
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I'm going to offer the alternative view that:quote:you pretty much need a 1080Ti to game at 4K this being true is very dependent on what games you are running, how much you care about high refresh rate, and what detail settings you are willing to tolerate. I bought a 1060 6GB and 4K TV to use together and do not at all regret it. Lots of newer games, seriously lots of them, run and look great at 4K on a 1060 if you're willing to turn down effects compared to what you'd run at 1080p. I don't mean "everything at minimum", I mean "mix of medium-high". Most games older than a couple years and some new games (e.g. Pillars of Eternity II, Stellaris) will run smoothly on a 1060 even maxed out at 4k. For the exceptions, 1080p has integer scaling on a 4K monitor and will look just as good as it would on a 1080p monitor. Like, if you're on the fence already and feel like something's missing when you can't move all the sliders to 'Ultra' then by all means wait but 4K is not some kind of no-man's-land for reasonably priced machines, the details make the difference. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jun 14, 2018 |
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Jun 14, 2018 20:07
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Yeah. I'll wait until graphics cards make the jump in performance needs from 1080p to 4k minimal, similar to 720p to 1080p now.
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Jun 14, 2018 21:07
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4k gaming won't be a thing until they start making panels that can do 4k at more than 60Hz. 120+ Hz has become the primary goal for gaming in the last 5 years, so that beats out any concern for resolution. VR is the other big push, but that also needs 90+Hz at minimum in each eye, otherwise the rates of motion sickness spike dramatically.
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Jun 14, 2018 21:34
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How reasonable is it to search for used/refurb GSync monitors? If I could get one for comparatively cheap and not skimp on reliability or anything, that sounds like a good deal. Full price seems dreadful though.
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Jun 14, 2018 21:50
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Fuzz posted:4k gaming won't be a thing until they start making panels that can do 4k at more than 60Hz. 120+ Hz has become the primary goal for gaming in the last 5 years, so that beats out any concern for resolution. TFTCentral writes that they expect AU Optronics to put a 27" 144Hz 4K panel without HDR support (so hopefully it won't be $2500) into mass production in June 2018, but no monitors using it have been announced. In the same article they also mention a pretty weird Samsung VA panel, 31.5" 4K 120Hz, standard 16:9 aspect ratio, but curved for some reason. Mass production expected from July 2018. TFTCentral posted:If you don't want or need the HDR FALD support, the normal version of this 4K @ 144Hz panel is the M270QAN02.3 with specs in line with typical panels. Without the HDR FALD backlight, that will hopefully significantly bring the retail cost of monitors down. There's been a lot of complaints about the very high retail price of the Asus/Acer monitors mentioned above, but that is largely due to the FALD HDR backlight production. If you just want an Ultra HD 144Hz IPS gaming panel without the added HDR capability, this forthcoming panel option might present some good, lower cost choices when it is used. Mass production of this panel is expected in June 2018, but we've not yet seen any displays announced using it. TFTCentral posted:Around July 2018 Samsung will also start to produce a 31.5" curved VA panel with 3840 x 2160 Ultra HD resolution. This panel will offer a 3000:1 contrast ratio, sRGB colour space and 120Hz refresh rate.
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Jun 14, 2018 21:55
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Fuzz posted:4k gaming won't be a thing until they start making panels that can do 4k at more than 60Hz. 120+ Hz has become the primary goal for gaming in the last 5 years, so that beats out any concern for resolution. To do 120HZ, the game has to run at 120fps right?
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Jun 14, 2018 22:24
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Win 10 is required on any Intel CPU past 7th Gen. But, win7 is EOL in less than 18 months and any problem win10 has win8 has too.
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Jun 14, 2018 22:34
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punk rebel ecks posted:To do 120HZ, the game has to run at 120fps right?
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Jun 14, 2018 22:49
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Khorne posted:It's not required. You can use wufuc to turn off microsoft's nagware. jesus don't recommend or even suggest running an OS that doesn't support your CPU, why would you loving do that
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Jun 14, 2018 22:51
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Why do you hate freedom?
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Jun 14, 2018 22:59
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Rexxed posted:Why do you hate freedom? I'm Canadian. Under our laws you get freedom once you live up to the responsibilities of being nice to other people aka don't give out bad advice in the new builders thread.
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Jun 14, 2018 23:00
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refleks posted:I managed to put together a build thanks to this thread last year and I have been very happy with everything. I am however struggling a little bit with fan noise. I have spent considerable time fiddling around i AISuite from ASUS trying to figure out fan curves. I'm at a point now where I basically keep all fans (5 case fans (Corsair ML) + Cryrorig CPU)) at like 400 RPM up until like 70C, which does not seem healthy. At the same time, my CPU hits 70C fairly quickly which means they bump into the high powered mode after only moderate usage of the computer. Number one, five case fans is a ridiculous amount for an air cooled case, those noise sources could be reduced by 40% and you would see no meaningful difference in your temps. Two, the difference in temps between moderate case fan speeds and high case fan speeds is generally not enough to use high airflow due to the noise difference (edge cases like sff PC's or case with solid front panels not withstanding). Don't link the case fans speed to the cpu and set them to a fixed 800rpm to start. As long as the air in the case is getting exchanged, you're good. Three, the meshify C is optimised for airflow, it can only get so quiet compared to Fractal's other offerings, which tend to cater towards silence. And last, the H7 is a bit on the light side for a 6c/12t cpu, but you did say you weren't OCed. Try remounting it. That said 70C is not a bad load temp either.
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Jun 14, 2018 23:15
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Arivia posted:I'm Canadian. Under our laws you get freedom once you live up to the responsibilities of being nice to other people aka don't give out bad advice in the new builders thread. That's fair enough, I mean, I wouldn't tell someone building a new system to run 7 or 8 even if my new ryzen build is on 8 with classic start. I know I'm doing something nonstandard and am prepared to deal with issues that may arise. Everyone who isn't a computer grognard should probably just run Windows 10. I was mostly joking because as a general computer you can do whatever you want on it that's not restricted by the hardware vendor, even if it's dumb.
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Jun 14, 2018 23:21
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Rexxed posted:That's fair enough, I mean, I wouldn't tell someone building a new system to run 7 or 8 even if my new ryzen build is on 8 with classic start. I know I'm doing something nonstandard and am prepared to deal with issues that may arise. Everyone who isn't a computer grognard should probably just run Windows 10. I was mostly joking because as a general computer you can do whatever you want on it that's not restricted by the hardware vendor, even if it's dumb. You can drop this discussion, no one was suggesting running Win 7. The suggestion was to not pay for Win 10.
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Jun 15, 2018 00:02
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Saukkis posted:You can drop this discussion, no one was suggesting running Win 7. The suggestion was to not pay for Win 10. Khorne was, which is what I was responding to. Buying a Windows 7 key is whatever. But calling a lack of support for current processors in Windows 7 just "nagware" and alluding that running incompatible hardware works fine isn't something that should be going unchallenged or tacitly accepted in the thread where uninformed people come for help and guidance.
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Jun 15, 2018 01:04
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Arivia posted:jesus don't recommend or even suggest running an OS that doesn't support your CPU, why would you loving do that I also recommended win10 because win7 is going to have support dropped soon. If win7 still had support I'd recommend it, but 18 months is coming up way too fast to even bother installing win7 on a new computer. In case it wasn't clear, go with win10 and win7/win8 keys upgrade just fine still. Khorne fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Jun 15, 2018 |
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Jun 15, 2018 02:48
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Can we not this? While there are a handful of interesting things to be said on the matter of installing Win7 on an unsupported platform, no one, not even Khorne, was recommending a Win7 install, and I'd hate for someone reading the thread for build advice to think someone was. If you are that person, buy a Windows 7 key from SA Mart and use it to register Windows 10, the instructions are in the post.
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Jun 15, 2018 03:21
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I have my OS on an SSD and a 1TB HD for programs, files, etc. The HD is starting to fill up, so I was looking for a new, larger HD to swap it out with. I've reflexively purchased Western Digital drives in the past, but looking at both Newegg and Amazon I am both a) utterly confused at WD's offerings, and b) seeing some names that I don't recognize (HGST) since I haven't shopped for hard disks in some time. What do you all recommend for a decent drive to run programs from?
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Jun 15, 2018 14:14
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benzoapyrene posted:I have my OS on an SSD and a 1TB HD for programs, files, etc. The HD is starting to fill up, so I was looking for a new, larger HD to swap it out with. I've reflexively purchased Western Digital drives in the past, but looking at both Newegg and Amazon I am both a) utterly confused at WD's offerings, and b) seeing some names that I don't recognize (HGST) since I haven't shopped for hard disks in some time. What do you all recommend for a decent drive to run programs from? So to begin with, make sure anything you care about has at least two copies. Backups should be easy to automate with a lot of online services or you should have a second disk or a NAS or something. Just don't expect to put everything on one spinning disk and still have it there in 1-5 years if you care about it at all. This goes for everyone, not just you, it's a general warning about keeping your important data backed up. HGST is Hitachi's old factories making WD branded drives. They differentiate them for some reason. They tend to be some of the best. I'd get a WD Red (or black if you don't mind the noise), or an HGST 7200 RPM drive. I've been buying some Toshiba disks lately that are cheap, but you have to be careful of some bad lines of disks from every manufacturer (also Toshibas are often only a 2 year warranty). There's only three disk makers now (counting HGST as WD) so there's not a ton of choices. I look at the Backblaze disk failure rates as a general guide of what I might want to skip, given the caveat that they're not the be-all and end-all of drive tests: https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-stats-for-q1-2018/ There's a lot of data from earlier years as well, the main thing to look at is the drive model number and failure rates.
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Jun 15, 2018 14:22
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Oh and if you just wanted a recommendation: https://smile.amazon.com/HGST-DeskStar-High-Performance-Packaging-0S04005/dp/B01N7YOH4P/
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Jun 15, 2018 15:03
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I've been mulling this over for a while, but reading a couple of posts that the next set of Intel processors is in development hell for now(?) and that RAM prices are finally coming down a bit, I think I want to upgrade. I'm coming from a Dell XPS 8500 (i7 3770, 8gb DDR3) and back in autumn I bought some components with the thought of moving the processor/motherboard etc into a new case without replacing them, but even though I've read it's possible to do, Dell still has some weird stuff that apparently makes it kinda complicated, so instead of that I think I'd like to give this PC to my mom and just start fresh. So for the old PC, I'll replace the hard drive, but I don't think I can get a replacement PSU (one of the reasons I wanted to change cases in the first place). It's 5 years old now, but she won't be doing anything intense on it; it probably won't be an issue right? Or if it is, would there be some warning? I don't want it to just die on her in 6 months or something. as for me: What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Gaming, and professional illustration (and I wanna get into 3d modeling too). What's your budget? $700 or so for these new components? But if there's a good reason I could do significantly more. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow? The Adobe suite and a couple of other illustration programs, and I plan to start using Maya soon. Nothing gargantuan (although modeling might be, I'm not sure) but not light either; my current system strains a bit, but part of that might be because it's been getting old as I've been starting on more intense stuff. I would very much like to be able to have at least one of my programs up + a game + browser, which I currently can't do. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? 1440p 60hz, but I want to look into getting a high refresh rate 1440p one too sometime down the line. Most of the games I play are CPU heavy (Paradox games, Total War) so I'd like that side of things to run as well as possible. For graphics, I'm completely fine with downgrading quality right to the bottom, but performance has to be silky smooth. I have an ancient graphics card I'm being obstinate about upgrading until Nvidia comes out with the 11xx series, and I plan to spend ~$400-450 at that point on something new. I guess when I do get something new, I'd like things to look pretty good for a year or two at least though, if that's possible. These are what I'm thinking of getting: CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($347.00 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($126.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($164.99 @ Newegg) Total: $666.86 How different is different RAM? That brand alone seems to have several types that look (to me, an idiot) completely identical but have like $40 variance in prices. And going to 3200 in general, prices vary even more wildly. Also, how much faster is e.g. 3400 vs 3200? I don't need to squeeze out a few extra frames, but if it'd help with e.g. my programs running simultaneously? Also, the motherboard I chose is the tiny sized one; it was listed on the OP but I can't help but notice that nobody else picking i7's over the past few pages seems to be going with it; if there a downside to it? I would like to have the option of overclocking in the future, but I'm not planning on doing it for now (and I can buy a better CPU cooler when the time comes, if that one isn't enough). PCpartpicker says the CPU doesn't come with a stock cooler; does it or the cooler come with thermal paste, or do I have to buy that separately? These are what I bought back in autumn but am not using yet: Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C TG ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive These are what I'm carrying over from my current PC: Video Card: Sapphire - Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card Monitor: Dell - S2240L 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor Monitor: Dell - U2715H 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor Thanks!
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Jun 16, 2018 00:08
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Koramei posted:Also, the motherboard I chose is the tiny sized one; it was listed on the OP but I can't help but notice that nobody else picking i7's over the past few pages seems to be going with it; if there a downside to it? Koramei posted:I would like to have the option of overclocking in the future, but I'm not planning on doing it for now (and I can buy a better CPU cooler when the time comes, if that one isn't enough). PCpartpicker says the CPU doesn't come with a stock cooler; does it or the cooler come with thermal paste, or do I have to buy that separately?
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Jun 16, 2018 00:38
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buy this and never worry about thermal paste again. yeah, that's a 20g syringe for $6 (most tubes are 4g or 1.5g)
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Jun 16, 2018 01:58
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Doing my mobo swap tomorrow. First time so I'm worried. I've built multiple PCs, including this one so I know how to install a new mobo. But have never swapped one out with the rest of the case intact. Every video I find makes this sound like the most intimidating thing ever. I assume it should be pretty simple? Unplug all SATA Cables, pull out the GPU, unscrew the Mobo and take it out together? I'm replacing Mobo/CPU/Ram together so I figure I'll keep my previous build intact to save time. Then screw in new Mobo, pop in the CPU, pop back in the GPU, pop in the RAM, turn it on and install some mobo/CPU drivers no? I shouldn't even need to touch the PSU/HDDs at all. For drivers will I need to uninstall my current mobo/CPU drivers or can I just install my new drivers tonight before I go to sleep. Paul MaudDib posted:buy this and never worry about thermal paste again. I have never used Thermal Paste. Intel CPUs come with it stock, no?
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Jun 16, 2018 02:40
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Rookersh posted:I assume it should be pretty simple? Unplug all SATA Cables, pull out the GPU, unscrew the Mobo and take it out together? I'm replacing Mobo/CPU/Ram together so I figure I'll keep my previous build intact to save time. Pretty much. Just unplug everything, unscrew it from the case, and you're done. It's annoying and takes an hour or two to unmount and remount everything, but it's not really hard. Rookersh posted:I have never used Thermal Paste. Intel CPUs come with it stock, no? The cooler comes with a layer pre-applied. If you screw that up, or you are mounting one you've got sitting around, then you need to clean the CPU and heatsink with >90% isopropyl alcohol and a coffee filter and then reapply new thermal paste.
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Jun 16, 2018 02:45
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Intel stock coolers come with paste preapplied - using your own is required after the first application, or with 3rd party coolers. You shouldn't need to mess with drivers at all.
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Jun 16, 2018 02:45
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I think the driver question is because they are going to try to keep the current version of Windows installed. We don't recommend you do that. Back up your documents to another drive first. Then, plugging in only the system drive, fresh install your OS. Also it might work out if you just try to boot your existing Windows install.
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Jun 16, 2018 02:49
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LRADIKAL posted:I think the driver question is because they are going to try to keep the current version of Windows installed. Is there a reason why? I was hoping to do this upgrade this month, and follow it up with an SSD upgrade next month to pair this all out. Don't really want to have to reformat twice in a month if I don't have to.
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Jun 16, 2018 03:28
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Rookersh posted:Is there a reason why? You can just use a migration tool that most ssds come with to move your install onto the new ssd.
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Jun 16, 2018 03:50
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It's possible it will just work, but there's a better chance you'll spend more time loving around with it than the time it will take you to do a fresh install. On the other end, transferring an install to a newer drive is relatively easy and reliable.
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Jun 16, 2018 03:50
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I've cloned system disks with Macrium Reflect's free edition like 5 times and never had an issue, so you can try that if you don't want to do a fresh install.
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Jun 16, 2018 04:38
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Llamadeus posted:If you already have an ATX case there's no real advantage to an ITX board. There are potential disadvantages though, like the higher cost, the lack of extra RAM slots (and being able to easily add more RAM is pretty desirable for Photoshop and heavier software), fewer M.2 slots, no free PCIe slots. Oh, I got kind of confused by the list and didn't realize the ITX boards are more expensive. How's this one, the ASRock Pro4? Looking back at posts I see a lot of people using the ASRock Extreme4, but is there a big difference to warrant the ~$40 price difference? Are cheaper motherboards notably more likely to fail or something? Thanks for the response by the way. I guess I might as well go for a more expensive cooler now if I'd end up buying it one day anyway.
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Jun 16, 2018 05:11
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Other than the obvious difference in number of slots due to form factor and a couple SATA ports, the main differences are 12-phase VRM vs. 10 and support for USB 3.1 ("gen 2", because "gen 1" is just 3.0). The VRMs could potentially make a difference in overclocking - the less wattage each VRM has to handle, the smoother its output voltage will be - but I believe 10-phase is plenty adequate for moderate overclocks. Unless you're serious enough that you're delidding and using 150W+ capable cooling I wouldn't worry about it. USB 3.1 isn't useful unless you have or plan to have something that supports the interface and can actually use more bandwidth than 3.0, like an external SSD or large RAID.
Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Jun 16, 2018 |
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Jun 16, 2018 05:26
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Rookersh posted:Doing my mobo swap tomorrow. General question to the group - does windows still freak when you change too many core components? That was a thing at one point
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Jun 16, 2018 05:33
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I see people saying not to do it but I think it's mostly down to old habits, Windows 10 seems to not really care. I've moved a system drive from one computer to another of an entirely different chipset/generation intending to reinstall and when I missed the interrupt for the boot menu it came back up like nothing happened. I'd definitely try it for a system of the same generation. Worst case scenario, you have to reinstall just like you would have anyway.
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Jun 16, 2018 05:43
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