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Get Scarpa Vapor Vs
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May 24, 2018 04:48
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 12:46 |
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The best pair of shoes are the pair that actually fit you. Same as buying a harness. You need to actually go into a shop and try them on, and try a lot of them on. If the shop doesn't have little footholds for you to try the shoes out on, go to a different shop. Lots of companies do boot demos at climbing walls now and then, they are worth scoping out too. Eventually, you'll find a pair you absolutely love and you'll want to keep replacing. Even then, the sizes and even shape often vary slightly from production batch to production batch and you can still end up disappointed buying online. https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/series/neil_gresham_technique_and_training/technique_-_choosing_your_footwear-10488
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May 24, 2018 14:22
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Sizing down only really matters for aggressive shoes so if you don't get one of those I'd pick whatever is reasonably comfortable after it's stretched out.
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May 26, 2018 20:24
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I am thinking of getting a pair of shoes slightly smaller than my normal size just for problems with a lot of heel hooking. My current ones are just loose enough that a serious engaged heel hook makes them slip. Any thoughts on what good candidate shoes could be? I currently have miuras, solutions, anasazis and katanas because I am an insane person. Also I just started an easy hangboarding routine. I am pretty excited about getting out of my plateau.
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May 29, 2018 19:45
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My gym had a pair of the same shoes so I tried them on. They were super comfortable despite going down from a 44 to a 43. I forgot how slippery new shoes feel at first, but I seem to like'em. Thanks for the advice, I tried 'em out on 3-4 routes before making the decision to buy.
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May 29, 2018 20:43
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I went to the Red this weekend and did some trad. I toproped a few short 5.7s and practiced gear placements on my way up, then led another. I used only passive protection, and according to my trad-experienced mentor most of my placements were good, and all of them would have held if I had fallen. A few placements could have been better, but I certainly seemed to have a decent grasp of how to place gear. But goddamn I can see why people use cams as their main protection these days.
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May 29, 2018 23:31
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pokie posted:Also I just started an easy hangboarding routine. I am pretty excited about getting out of my plateau. Obviously I don't have an answer to your questions but I'm real stoked to see your progress! 
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May 30, 2018 01:20
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pokie posted:I am thinking of getting a pair of shoes slightly smaller than my normal size just for problems with a lot of heel hooking. My current ones are just loose enough that a serious engaged heel hook makes them slip. Any thoughts on what good candidate shoes could be? why do you own loose solutions
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May 30, 2018 06:00
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Electoral Surgery posted:why do you own loose solutions Solutions suck at heel hooking
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May 30, 2018 06:33
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If your heel is slipping out of a pair of solutions, they're too big. The heel is by no means amazing, but it shouldn't come off. To be a bit more helpful, Scarpa instincts are probably the best shoes I've had for heel hooking. I had the old lace up ones, but I'm sure any of the newer ones are as good. Depends though, generally a soft heel like on pythons are good for slopers, harder heel like solution or that cheat ridge on the anasazi heel are better for hooking edges ime. Still B.A.E fucked around with this message at 09:12 on May 30, 2018 |
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May 30, 2018 09:08
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Sent 3 new routes at the gym! I'm starting to break into v3 range consistently. v4s remain a crapshoot. Still, I'm very excited. I had been putting off going back consistently because of my shoe losing rubber but new ones have given me a bit of confidence in my equipment back. I got a pat on the back for figuring out how to (slowly) static a problem that was meant to be a dyno. Not sure about the culture in other climbing gyms, but I heavily endorse Terra Firma in GR, MI. The people there are good people.
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May 30, 2018 17:26
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Electoral Surgery posted:why do you own loose solutions I didn't know that any of my shoes were loose until I tried doing some weird v6 slopery heel hook where my foot was very high and bore a great enough load that my shoes started slipping off. This hasn't been a problem for 4 years. My shoes hurt my toes already. I don't want tighter shoes for regular climbing. Still B.A.E posted:If your heel is slipping out of a pair of solutions, they're too big. The heel is by no means amazing, but it shouldn't come off. Cool, I will check them out Instincts at my local REI.
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May 30, 2018 18:59
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pokie posted:I didn't know that any of my shoes were loose until I tried doing some weird v6 slopery heel hook where my foot was very high and bore a great enough load that my shoes started slipping off. This hasn't been a problem for 4 years. My shoes hurt my toes already. I don't want tighter shoes for regular climbing. People's heels are all different shapes so it's a little hard to give specific shoe advice, basically what I do if I want a shoe that won't slip on a hard heel hook (and I'm pretty flexible so I can hook over my head and haul myself up off my foot if my shoe will stay on for it) is try on shoes and then try as hard as I possibly can to take them off pulling on the heel while curling my foot, if it moves at all it's probably not going to work. Once I find a shoe I ask the person working, if they seem knowledgeable, how much they think that shoe'll stretch or I google it until I get a good range, then size down that far. Generally getting a shoe that tight hurts to wear, like a couple attempts on a problem max at a time before I take it off hurts to wear, and digs into my achilles. Doesn't slip on heel hooks though. If you're already at the "man I have a lot of pairs of climbing shoes" stage, it's probably worth finding a pair of shoes that works for you and just wear them if you need to do a heinous heel hook, or I dunno maybe your heel's shaped different than mine and it won't be so bad.
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May 30, 2018 19:36
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Caldwell and Honnold set a new speed record on the Nose
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May 30, 2018 19:44
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I'm sick of Alex Honnold. Whatever man you're good at climbing we get it
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May 30, 2018 21:13
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M. Night Skymall posted:People's heels are all different shapes so it's a little hard to give specific shoe advice, basically what I do if I want a shoe that won't slip on a hard heel hook (and I'm pretty flexible so I can hook over my head and haul myself up off my foot if my shoe will stay on for it) is try on shoes and then try as hard as I possibly can to take them off pulling on the heel while curling my foot, if it moves at all it's probably not going to work. Once I find a shoe I ask the person working, if they seem knowledgeable, how much they think that shoe'll stretch or I google it until I get a good range, then size down that far. Generally getting a shoe that tight hurts to wear, like a couple attempts on a problem max at a time before I take it off hurts to wear, and digs into my achilles. Doesn't slip on heel hooks though. If you're already at the "man I have a lot of pairs of climbing shoes" stage, it's probably worth finding a pair of shoes that works for you and just wear them if you need to do a heinous heel hook, or I dunno maybe your heel's shaped different than mine and it won't be so bad. That makes sense. Thanks for the specific advice. I definitely intend to only use these shoes for specific nasty heel hooks, so I am fine with them being miniature iron maidens.
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May 30, 2018 21:56
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I've got two shoes, ones for edgy/hooky bullshit on basalt, the other for smeary jammy bullshit on granite as both pairs suck I can see the impulse to keep buying them
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Jun 4, 2018 07:31
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Tim Klein and Jason Wells died while simul-climbing Freeblast (5.7) El Cap on Saturday morning.  Investigation still ongoing and rampant rumors about one being peeled off the wall by another party's falling gear. YOSAR & NPS are pretty tight lipped and none of the witness reports seem to corroborate it, but that's the statement one of the deceased' spouse made. SeaborneClink fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Jun 4, 2018 |
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Jun 4, 2018 08:39
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Caldwell and Honnold went sub two hours on the Nose 
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Jun 6, 2018 19:22
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we get it alex, you can climb the nose
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Jun 7, 2018 01:14
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Bouldered for a while, just got into top roping and gosh darn that poo poo is fun. I can't wait to try lead now. My gym has a huge wall with an auto belayer (really just a pulley up top with a seatbelt-like brake that catches and lowers you if you fall). I never saw that before. Are they common? It's real scary but also pretty cool. I'm going camping at the end of summer at a lake that has a rock face that we saw people climbing on last year. I know there's at least one anchor at the top for a top rope, so we intend on bringing a rope and harnesses and trying it out this year. My friends and I have only climbed in gyms, what's a good resource for us to prepare before we try the outdoor climb?
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Jun 7, 2018 19:26
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The best resource to prepare is to head out with someone who has climbed outside before. Building anchors isn't difficult, but it is definitely a skill that needs to be learned by doing it under the supervision of a knowledgeable person. Videos aren't that great of a substitute, because they don't give you any of the feedback that a person would.
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Jun 7, 2018 20:05
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Your gym or another one in your area may teach a basic outdoor toprope class - this can be a great resource, especially if you find a couple other people to split the cost.
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Jun 7, 2018 20:22
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Please do not build a top rope anchor without the input / oversight of at least one person who knows what they're doing. Auto belays are pretty common and I wish my local wall had more of them, if you just want to get yourself good and hosed up climbing in a short space of time then they're a great way to do it, and more fun than doing boulder circuits etc.
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Jun 7, 2018 20:44
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SeaborneClink posted:Tim Klein and Jason Wells died while simul-climbing Freeblast (5.7) El Cap on Saturday morning. Reading now that they're speculating, also based on eye witness account, that they weren't placing protection nearly enough or even at all...
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Jun 11, 2018 05:48
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Climbers of their skill going for a speed attempt aren't gonna spend much time placing pro on 5.7 People have been pushing times lower and lower in both rock and alpine climbing for awhile now, and I don't think there's any question that it's being done at the expense of safety. I think there's definitely a debate to be had over whether or not this is a good direction to be pushing the cutting edge of the sport, but I think they were placing exactly as much protection as they intended or as was warranted for their goal. That being said, staying roped together on pitches were you *know* you aren't gonna be placing pro strikes me as maybe just reckless.
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Jun 11, 2018 08:27
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Isn't Freeblast a 5.11? I havent climbed it, but going off Mountain Project two of the pitches are 5.8 and 5.9 and then the rest are 5.10 and 5.11. I've always though simul climbing without pro seemed reckless as you're doubling your chance of getting ripped off the wall, but ive never heard of anyone unroping probably because it defeats the point of saving time. I'd be curious to know if people setting speed records try to keep a piece of gear between them or not? At 2 hours up the Nose it seems pretty likely that they skip a bunch of placements to save time. asur fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jun 11, 2018 |
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Jun 11, 2018 17:32
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asur posted:Isn't Freeblast a 5.11? I havent climbed it, but going off Mountain Project two of the pitches are 5.8 and 5.9 and then the rest are 5.10 and 5.11. It is a 5.11, but the info I've seen says they peeled off a section of it that is 5.7. Any pitch may really only have a few moves that warrant the grade, with the rest of the pitch being easier.
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Jun 11, 2018 18:03
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I thought they weren't trying to set a speed record or anything and were just doing a "chill" climb
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Jun 11, 2018 18:16
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I mean, I don't think they were trying to set any records, but they were very much trying to climb as quickly as possible. One can argue that the risk/benefit ratio of forgoing protection while roped together on that climb is just obviously not worth it...but it's ultimately a personal decision. My point is just that it was a deliberate risk on their part and not really out of line with the current norms of high-level speed climbing, where minimal/no pro is not uncommon even on "chill" climbs. Some people would argue that, at their level of skill, it wasn't inherently more dangerous than when a regular schlubbo goes unroped on exposed class 3/4. My personal feeling is that failure/injury rate for these guys is quantitatively high enough that you can't really argue that the increased risk is compensated for by their commensurate increase in skill level--at least not to the extent people imagine it to be. But that may or may not be the case once you normalize for the time they spend climbing...
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Jun 11, 2018 18:37
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When you add in factors out of their control, like the possibility of a falling haul bag from a party higher up, then the accident starts to make a lot of sense. I think a lot of folks tend to think it is just them and the rock, but in many areas that's really not the case.
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Jun 11, 2018 18:45
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Guess who led his first 5.10a on gear today? This guy!
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Jun 16, 2018 17:42
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Syncopated posted:Guess who led his first 5.10a on gear today? This guy! Nice job. Keep it up!
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Jun 17, 2018 21:40
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12 months of indoor bouldering weekly, and three weeks of 3x/week. Woo! I kinda wish I was climbing better than v2-v3 by now but I think I had (and still have) weaknesses around upper body strength, core strength, flexibility and of course, fear of slipping/falling. I also started incorporating some training on the campus board set up, a bit like this: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/785455991233885425/ but only with my feet on rungs supporting my body weight - and sometimes I practice dead-hanging or doing pull-ups using the round wooden holds. Is it too soon to be doing this sort of training, and should I just be patient? I also do some campusing on v0-v1 boulder routes, to finish off a training session. I couldn't seem to find any information on Google as to whether this is a quick route to injury - what are other climbers' experiences with this?
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Jun 17, 2018 22:12
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Me and someone else have been teaching ourselves lead climbing at the gym. Bad idea. A mixture of arrogance and stupidity led me to believe it is simple. Needless to say we pissed off some employees after several errors. Feeling discouraged but I suppose most take classes.
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Jun 18, 2018 19:09
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Me and someone else have been teaching ourselves lead climbing at the gym. Bad idea. A mixture of arrogance and stupidity led me to believe it is simple. Needless to say we pissed off some employees after several errors. Feeling discouraged but I suppose most take classes. Take a class.
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Jun 18, 2018 19:24
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Me and someone else have been teaching ourselves lead climbing at the gym. Bad idea. A mixture of arrogance and stupidity led me to believe it is simple. Needless to say we pissed off some employees after several errors. Feeling discouraged but I suppose most take classes.
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Jun 18, 2018 20:52
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If you mean that you and another person without lead experience are trying to figure it out on your own, do NOT do that. Swallow your pride and take a class, for your own and others’ safety.
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Jun 18, 2018 21:00
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jet_dee posted:12 months of indoor bouldering weekly, and three weeks of 3x/week. Woo! You're better off limit bouldering and trying hard on moves that are just out of your reach. Maybe do some hang boarding if you want to incorporate some off the wall training.
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Jun 18, 2018 21:04
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 12:46 |
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Ravenfood posted:What kind of sketchy gym lets you climb lead without checking that you have any idea what you're doing? Fair question. We did a lot of research beforehand and know top roping, so I think we appeared competent at a surface level, only upon close scrutiny did it turn out we kinda sucked. One gym worker eventually (our third day, tbh) analyzed our every move. Mahlertov Cocktail posted:If you mean that you and another person without lead experience are trying to figure it out on your own, do NOT do that. Swallow your pride and take a class, for your own and others’ safety. Yeah agreed, totally. It was a dick move to not take a class first.
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Jun 18, 2018 21:37
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