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Doctor_Fruitbat posted:Does anyone know anything of the arcane magic powering the swipe text on the touch keyboard and whether there is any way to get it to actually work consistently, because right now it is totally random whether it lets me swipe words or just selects a single letter.
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Jun 6, 2018 21:42
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Follow-up on UPS chat: I bought the BX850 for my desktop PC/monitor and the BGE90M for my internet/network gear. Both are APC brand. Everything's hooked up and running fine. I tested the battery performance on both and no issues. Even though I was only able to push the BX850 to less than half-load (200W) by plugging in my speakers playing loud music (which I normally won't have hooked to the battery), and cranking the graphical settings in WoW to max and standing in a lower-performance area, it drained the battery FAST. Like, 5 minutes tops under those conditions. I'm imagining a life of about 30 seconds at full load, which is merely a tiny fraction of what they advertise. I didn't buy it to be able to play games extensively during a power outage, though. I just want it to protect my poo poo from corruption so I can shut everything down properly. For that it will be perfectly fine. There's also an audible buzz when it's running on battery. Anyone know if that's normal? I've heard of these things giving off an odor sometimes, and I didn't notice anything like that. Finally, I'm not using their PowerChute software. It apparently has not been updated in ages, won't let you install/uninstall unless the unit is hooked up, and overrides the Windows power settings with some hosed up hibernation poo poo. I used the supplied USB cable to connect it and Windows activated everything it needs to. Under the Windows power options, I set the PC to shut down completely when there's 5% battery remaining (now that I've tested it under load, I might move that to 10%). That's all I need from it. I think with PowerChute you can modify the behavior of the alarm buzzer on the UPS, but it has a mute button on the unit so that takes care of that. Ofecks fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jun 6, 2018 |
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Jun 6, 2018 21:52
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Yeah, the buzz is pretty common when the rectifier circuits are firing in my experience. Runtime on full load is what you'd expect too, the runtimes they advertise are based on an "average" load that is usually a fraction of the total peak output it can support. I would have it shut down (or suspend since it will write out the hiberfil) well before 10%, maybe 25. The calibration on those runtime and % numbers can be wildly inaccurate if you don't do load-testing on a regular basis for calibration (PowerChute will help with this) and it might end up shutting off on you before it can complete the shutdown.
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Jun 6, 2018 22:15
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I'm on a NVMe SSD. Shutdown takes about 5 seconds. It used to take like, 2 until last year's Anniversary Update, go figure. Thanks for the clarifications.
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Jun 6, 2018 22:21
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Less Windows and more battery, but: I have a couple laptop/netbooks I rarely if ever use. Is there anything I can do to keep the batteries from degrading prematurely from disuse? I don't wanna be constantly plugging and unplugging them and doing upkeep like that if I don't have to. Like I only even power them up when I travel, which is like monthly at most.
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Jun 7, 2018 04:51
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Javid posted:Less Windows and more battery, but: I have a couple laptop/netbooks I rarely if ever use. Is there anything I can do to keep the batteries from degrading prematurely from disuse? I don't wanna be constantly plugging and unplugging them and doing upkeep like that if I don't have to. Charge/discharge cycles put more wear on them than sitting idle, so leaving them sitting around doing nothing is actually the best thing possible. L-ion batteries have maximum shelf life if stored with 50-75% charge. Just use it for an hour or whatever until it's at 75% and then shut it down and put it away, easy peasy. However, l-ion is also inherently unstable so even with ideal storage they still lose capacity over time.
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Jun 9, 2018 00:20
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Windows decided on its own that I was running low on disk space and enabled a space saving measure that deleted all local photos that had a copy on Onedrive, breaking preview in the photos app (!), forcing me to download the full copy whenever I wanted to view one. Could have asked at least, chucklefucks. I'd never really have noticed or cared if my photos app hadn't been full of black rectangles and slow as molasses. You can disable this in the Onedrive settings.
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Jun 11, 2018 23:42
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Is there a way to install Windows 10 without external media? I've been meaning to switch my laptop back to Windows, but we went on vacation and I forgot the thumb drive I'd installed the media tool on.
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Jun 17, 2018 01:01
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hooah posted:Is there a way to install Windows 10 without external media? I've been meaning to switch my laptop back to Windows, but we went on vacation and I forgot the thumb drive I'd installed the media tool on. If you have any USB drive whose data you don't care about (at least 5 GB, though you'd be hard pressed to find flash drives that aren't powers of 2 (so 8 GB)), you can get the ISO from the same web site that gives you the Media Creation Tool when you're using Windows. Format the USB drive FAT32, copy the entire contents of the ISO over, and boot off it. EFI took a lot of funky things out of creating boot drives. If not, you'll have to wait, although unless you're well off the beaten path you can probably just buy a flash drive to do this. Or, in your specific case, you can just put up with not-Windows while you're vacationing? The vacation part seems like the priority.
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Jun 17, 2018 01:29
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dont be mean to me posted:If you have any USB drive whose data you don't care about (at least 5 GB, though you'd be hard pressed to find flash drives that aren't powers of 2 (so 8 GB)), you can get the ISO from the same web site that gives you the Media Creation Tool when you're using Windows. Format the USB drive FAT32, copy the entire contents of the ISO over, and boot off it. EFI took a lot of funky things out of creating boot drives.
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Jun 17, 2018 01:32
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mystes posted:I wonder if you could do this from 5GB FAT32 partition on your hard disk if you were really determined. That's remarkably similar to how built-in laptop recovery works, although it's usually an archive of the model image from the factory and such a partition might also be an NTFS WinPE thing, or something stranger.
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Jun 17, 2018 01:42
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So what's the latest info on how to upgrade your hardware while keeping your free W10 upgrade license? Was the "digital license tied to your account" gimmick an actual thing, or do I have to buy a new license for this? E: Windows says my key is tied to my acount. Sounds like all the more reason to not uninstall the license, but that will still create a conflict when I load up my new installation when the key is taken and unreclaimable. Since I’m installing this on a new drive, I also won’t be doing a reset/format. ufarn fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 12:06
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Try microsoft online chat. They reactivated mine when I changed motherboards.
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Jun 22, 2018 12:34
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Try microsoft online chat. They reactivated mine when I changed motherboards.
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Jun 22, 2018 12:50
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I got to it via the activation tool in Windows, I just built the new PC and tried to activate it with my ms account. It didn't work, but gave me a link to online chat. They were good tbh.
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Jun 22, 2018 12:58
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Yeah same, the guy remoted in and ran that one command and it was done I forget how I got to it on the website though🤔
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Jun 22, 2018 15:39
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have they finally stopped handing out free upgrades if you use a win7/8 key?
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Jun 23, 2018 04:48
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Klyith posted:have they finally stopped handing out free upgrades if you use a win7/8 key? No. Windows 10 is more of an advertising platform than an OS so they want you to have it. You can still upgrade from pirated activated Win 8 and activate 10 last I heard. I have to imagine they might be putting some asterisks in those activation entries though so maybe just get a key.
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Jun 23, 2018 05:10
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Is the "April" update okay to install now? No more Chrome crashing or audio driver issues? Or hibernation/sleep issues? I've avoided feature updates on my desktop and laptop for months.
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Jun 23, 2018 05:48
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ThermoPhysical posted:Is the "April" update okay to install now? No more Chrome crashing or audio driver issues? Or hibernation/sleep issues? I've avoided feature updates on my desktop and laptop for months. Just make sure your stuff is backed up in case it makes your pc unbootable and you have to reinstall.
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Jun 23, 2018 07:01
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So I was wondering for a while now why my NAS doesn't show up in the Network tree in Explorer. Turns out, SMB1 was axed a while ago, which the computer browsing stuff relied on, and now does discovery of SMB capable servers only via WS-Discovery, which Samba doesn't do (yet). You could reinstall SMB1 via the features thingy, but it's exploitable as hell apparently. Meh.
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Jun 24, 2018 21:19
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Some multi monitor issues. This is my work laptop which, a Dell Precision E-something with the E-View pro dock. It is still running 16299 and I have no say on when it updates. I have a pair of Hazro HZ26Wi monitors and also use the laptop screen. When the monitors go into powersave mode, they show the "going to sleep message" then turn off the backlights, upon turning off the system plays the device disconnect sound, immediately followed by the device connect sound, and the backlight on my primary monitor turns back on. When I wake up the system, everything on my secondary monitor has moved to the primary. Stuff on the laptop screen is unaffected. It's annoying AF. Currently I'm using an autohotkey script pinned to the taskbar to move things, but is there a proper fix? Also someone in this thread about 40 pages back posted a piece of software that sorts out the issue with the mouse pointer crossing to a new monitor of a different size, making it so you can line them up and have the pointer cross to the correct physical location. Anyone remember what that was called?
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Jun 24, 2018 21:40
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Since I recently moved back to Win 10 after a few years on Mac OS, could someone recommend a program that makes multiple monitors + virtual desktops/workspaces work like they do on Mac? Basically I'd like each monitor to have its own virtual desktop when extended. When I switch between desktops on Monitor 1, i would like Monitor 2 to stay on the desktop it's currently on. Any way to make this happen?
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Jun 24, 2018 22:03
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Lum posted:Also someone in this thread about 40 pages back posted a piece of software that sorts out the issue with the mouse pointer crossing to a new monitor of a different size, making it so you can line them up and have the pointer cross to the correct physical location. Anyone remember what that was called? oh my god does such a magical thing exist?
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Jun 24, 2018 22:13
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Combat Pretzel posted:So I was wondering for a while now why my NAS doesn't show up in the Network tree in Explorer. Turns out, SMB1 was axed a while ago, which the computer browsing stuff relied on, and now does discovery of SMB capable servers only via WS-Discovery, which Samba doesn't do (yet). You could reinstall SMB1 via the features thingy, but it's exploitable as hell apparently. Meh. Yeah, I went nuts after the update that turned off SMB1 by default, WHERES MY loving NAS GODDAMNIT, IT WAS HERE 45MINUTES AGO? I eventually found instructions on how to fix it, but holy poo poo that was a frustrating hour.
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Jun 24, 2018 22:17
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Is dragging around the monitors' relative locations in the Display Settings inadequate?
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Jun 24, 2018 22:36
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JnnyThndrs posted:Yeah, I went nuts after the update that turned off SMB1 by default, WHERES MY loving NAS GODDAMNIT, IT WAS HERE 45MINUTES AGO? I eventually found instructions on how to fix it, but holy poo poo that was a frustrating hour.
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Jun 24, 2018 22:42
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Combat Pretzel posted:You re-enabled SMB1? I'd prefer for Samba to do WS-Discovery, but I don't see that happening anytime soon. I don't know why Netbios, which the network neighbourhood uses, is dependent on SMB1. There really is no need for it to be.
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Jun 24, 2018 23:01
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Combat Pretzel posted:You re-enabled SMB1? I'd prefer for Samba to do WS-Discovery, but I don't see that happening anytime soon. Yeah, I’m still running WHS V1(Server 2003, basically)so my hands are tied at the moment, but I’m building a new NAS using WHS 2011 which uses SMB 2.0, it’ll be done soon. It’s a home NAS with nothing important on it, just music and movies and a few games, but I’m not happy with SMB 1.0’s insecurities either.
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Jun 24, 2018 23:35
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Lum posted:I have a pair of Hazro HZ26Wi monitors and also use the laptop screen. When the monitors go into powersave mode, they show the "going to sleep message" then turn off the backlights, upon turning off the system plays the device disconnect sound, immediately followed by the device connect sound, and the backlight on my primary monitor turns back on. When I wake up the system, everything on my secondary monitor has moved to the primary. Stuff on the laptop screen is unaffected. It's annoying AF. Currently I'm using an autohotkey script pinned to the taskbar to move things, but is there a proper fix? It's possible the monitors might allow you to turn off HPD which will stop this communication, and if you're using HDMI I believe you can physically sabotage the cable pins.
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Jun 25, 2018 05:57
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It is also called turning off power saving mode on the monitor itself.
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Jun 25, 2018 13:20
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Lum posted:Also someone in this thread about 40 pages back posted a piece of software that sorts out the issue with the mouse pointer crossing to a new monitor of a different size, making it so you can line them up and have the pointer cross to the correct physical location. Anyone remember what that was called? Deviant posted:oh my god does such a magical thing exist? astral posted:Is dragging around the monitors' relative locations in the Display Settings inadequate? SirViver fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Jun 25, 2018 |
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Jun 25, 2018 13:28
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So I have this 1 TB external HDD. Half of it was Bitlocker encrypted, half wasn't. I didn't have enough space on the clear-text one so I wanted to change the ratio to 25/75. I shrunk the BL partition no problem. I know have an extra 200 GB to allocate. I want to extend the unencrypted partition using that extra space. Except Windows won't let me, the "Extend volume" entry stays greyed out in the Disk Management interface: What do I do?
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Jun 25, 2018 13:39
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Furism posted:So I have this 1 TB external HDD. Half of it was Bitlocker encrypted, half wasn't. I didn't have enough space on the clear-text one so I wanted to change the ratio to 25/75. I shrunk the BL partition no problem. I know have an extra 200 GB to allocate. I want to extend the unencrypted partition using that extra space. Except Windows won't let me, the "Extend volume" entry stays greyed out in the Disk Management interface: Windows disk tool can only expand partitions to space that is to the right (after) the partition. There's no way to expand it using space on the left (before). There may be a third party utility that can accomplish this, maybe someone knows of one and can post it. But it's much harder to add space from before the start than it is to add space after the end. Given that it's just 400GB of data, it might be a lot faster to move everything out of G:, delete G:, then make a new partition on all that freed up space. Then copy the files back.
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Jun 25, 2018 14:18
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xamphear posted:Windows disk tool can only expand partitions to space that is to the right (after) the partition. There's no way to expand it using space on the left (before). There may be a third party utility that can accomplish this, maybe someone knows of one and can post it. But it's much harder to add space from before the start than it is to add space after the end. Oh. Ok. Is there a reason for that limitation? Just wondering. Other than that, yeah sure I'll do what you suggested 
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Jun 25, 2018 14:24
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Furism posted:Oh. Ok. Is there a reason for that limitation? Just wondering. Make sure you copy everything, even stuff with the hidden bit set. My lost data still pains me.
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Jun 25, 2018 14:57
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I used Aomei partition manager in the distant past. But I wouldn't recommend doing anything like it without backup anyway, so I'm not sure it will save time.
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Jun 25, 2018 15:20
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Furism posted:Oh. Ok. Is there a reason for that limitation? Just wondering. The tl;dr version is that expanding a partition "to the right" is pretty much just a matter of updating the partition table and maybe some metadata depending on the filesystem in use. Expanding it "to the left" involves moving all of the header data and editing any data that's based on the offset from the beginning of the partition. The former is pretty much impossible to screw up, the latter has a lot of opportunity for things to go wrong.
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Jun 25, 2018 16:26
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Furism posted:Oh. Ok. Is there a reason for that limitation? Just wondering. I have used EaseUs for this before without issue. https://www.easeus.com/partition-manager/epm-free.html (but do back it up first)
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Jun 25, 2018 19:29
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I installed windows 10 to a SSD, with my old install still intact on the older drive(I think that may be relevant). Now, programs in the new install say they don't have permission to access a seperate, third non-OS hard drive. First time I've seen this.
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Jun 25, 2018 19:34
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