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Flyinglemur posted:Oh I got the joke Move Over, People Are Ranting.
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Jun 14, 2018 02:38
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. I was hoping to pick the brains of Mopar people. I will consider starting a thread or just asking my question in the other thread when the Miata circle jerk ends
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 02:25 |
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I can answer all your rust related questions
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Jun 14, 2018 17:02
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Aeryk posted:I can answer all your rust related questions I was in the Navy for 20 years. Let me answer all of YOUR rust related questions. the answer is always chip, grind, prime and paint it
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Jun 14, 2018 17:49
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Flyinglemur posted:I was in the Navy for 20 years. Let me answer all of YOUR rust related questions. Bullshit. It's paint twice over rust.
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Jun 14, 2018 19:56
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Replace it with wood, problem solved.
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Jun 14, 2018 23:28
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4:1 in the XJ w/Novak cable shifter. Oh, we crawlin' now.
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Jun 15, 2018 22:19
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Is that the 231 transfer case?
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Jun 15, 2018 23:12
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241 from a TJ Rubicon. Bolted right in, just had to make a tiny notch in the transmission mount for clearance. I guess Teraflex no longer makes the 4:1 kits for the 231 because it's poop.
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Jun 15, 2018 23:38
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Looks like it's going to work awesome!
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Jun 16, 2018 00:24
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I've never been unhappy with the 2.72:1 gearing in the 231, but gawwwwwd I wish I could find one of those.
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Jun 16, 2018 01:12
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Nice dude, let's see the rest of it.
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Jun 16, 2018 02:03
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Krakkles posted:I've never been unhappy with the 2.72:1 gearing in the 231, but gawwwwwd I wish I could find one of those. Me either really for the most part, but the strength upgrade is an extra cherry on the top. always be closing posted:Nice dude, let's see the rest of it. Here she be...finally 'done' after 10 years. I think all that's left is maybe a seat upgrade and to spray in the U-Pol liner kit I've got sitting around. Everything else is finished. 
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Jun 16, 2018 02:24
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Looks great!Philip J Fry posted:Here she be...finally 'done' after 10 years. I think all that's left is maybe a seat upgrade and to spray in the U-Pol liner kit I've got sitting around. Everything else is finished. Quoting so future-you can see how naive you once were.
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Jun 16, 2018 04:41
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So I moved recently and I now have a garage of my own I can use. I used to use a friend's but he moved and the poor Jeep was in disrepair for a long time. I finally jumped in and spent all of my money and got a lot of things I've been meaning to done: Replaced passenger side balljoints. I've done this before but this new kit I was using didnt have the angled tube part to get the top balljoint in nice, this added several hours of confusion and frustration until we realized and just filed one of the tubes down to angle and it went in first time. The worst thing about starting your own garage toolset is how many trips to autozone/home depot/sears you need to make in a pinch, it really burns daylight. Since all my tools/compressor were stolen recently, I had to get a new compressor too, so I got the ARB twin as most people tend to do:  It's not wired up yet, I'll tackle that this weekend. Eventually I'd like the up/down air system (strike force zebra also offers their version of it too). Installing that compressor bracket was kind of a pain. I hate working in the engine bay on lifted Jeeps Sick of braking 37s with stock brakes I decided to get the Dynatrac pro-grip brakes since It'll be a bit longer until I can get tons under this thing.  They're a decent size larger than stock. Super simple to install too, you're only replacing the disk and the caliper mount bracket.  Ooh, shiny! I'm finishing the rest of them tomorrow and bed them in for the next couple of weeks. They just about clear my wheel weights on the rims I have. I have 1.5" spacers if need be, but I'd prefer not to have to use them. I've also ordered the strike force zebra plastic half doors, but they're nowhere to be seen so far. Hope to hear something from them next week. I'm pretty curious what my curb weight is on this thing now. With no top, plastic half doors, no back seat, small bumpers and trimmed frame for them I hope I'm in quite light.
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Jun 16, 2018 05:04
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Philip J Fry posted:Me either really for the most part, but the strength upgrade is an extra cherry on the top. As an aside - is there a difference between the 231 in a TJ vs an XJ? I always figured I would wait until something happened to my transfer case, the either replace it with a 241 (which are impossible to find) or more likely, another 231, but with Teraflex’s 2LO conversion. I actually think I’d get more use out of the latter, so I’m curious if I can even do it, since it says it’s compatible with TJ and LJ. tuna posted:So I moved recently and I now have a garage of my own I can use. I used to use a friend's but he moved and the poor Jeep was in disrepair for a long time.
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Jun 16, 2018 21:48
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tuna posted:Quoting so future-you can see how naive you once were. Nope! Other than maybe hydro assist somewhere down the line, it's done in terms of mechanical function. A roof rack would be nice for some overlanding trips, though. But holy poo poo are the prices insane. Krakkles posted:Yeah, that’d be nice too. The only differences I know of is that there's 3 different input shaft depths and 2 different spline counts depending on what vehicle/engine/transmission config the 231 was in. https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np-nvg-input-gears/
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Jun 17, 2018 00:42
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Krakkles posted:Nice upgrades! How far did you move? I still think we need to do another SoCal AI 4x4 trip. Thanks! Not too far, just into the valley. I'm 40mins from Rower flats now so that means much more accessible testing ground for the Jeep  I'm down for more socal ai 4x4 trips!
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Jun 17, 2018 02:33
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tuna posted:Thanks! Not too far, just into the valley. I'm 40mins from Rower flats now so that means much more accessible testing ground for the Jeep
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Jun 17, 2018 03:03
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Krakkles posted:Nice! I’m in Burbank, so probably near you. Let me know if you ever want a wrenching buddy, and let’s plot another trip! Yeah, will do! I'm sure there are still a bunch of trails a few hours from us that I haven't heard of before, would love to check more out. Or we head further afield to barstow/cougar buttes. I'm down for anything really.
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Jun 17, 2018 03:39
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tuna posted:cougar buttes. You're going mudding at cougar buttes?
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Jun 17, 2018 20:06
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[yt]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TY9dIp6NXC4&t=5s[/yt] What you think Kenny? I need to make a ground strap for my sedan delivery as well so I might invest. e- Phillip J Fry awesome ride, have fun with it. always be closing fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Jun 17, 2018 |
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Jun 17, 2018 23:04
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always be closing posted:[yt]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TY9dIp6NXC4&t=5s[/yt] That's a weird method tbh. $20 HF hydraulic crimper and smush those terminals on there.
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Jun 17, 2018 23:41
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kastein posted:You're going mudding at cougar buttes? wtf is mud? We're desert people out here: 
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Jun 18, 2018 01:14
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tuna posted:wtf is mud? We're desert people out here: I know but I wasn't going to let facts or logic get in the way of making a sexually suggestive pun.
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Jun 19, 2018 16:58
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My 99 xj has been running like poo poo for a few weeks. It hesitates and pops (backfires) upon low speed acceleration, perhaps more when cold but I can’t really tell. Sometimes I can do my daily commute (50 miles round trip) and only have it hesitate once or twice. This all seems to have started when I took it through an automatic car wash (gently caress I need to learn not to wash this thing) At some point It threw a code for the upstream o2 sensor heater (p0135) but after changing the sensor it still had the same behavior. Today (weeks after changing the sensor) when driving it it threw the same code again. I did replace it with a recommended ntk sensor but what are the chances The sensor was dead on arrival versus some other fuckery going on?
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Jun 21, 2018 02:15
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SouthMainAuto just did a YouTube video on a similar issue on a JK that turned out to be a broken ground. I'd check some wiring before throwing another O2 at it.
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Jun 21, 2018 02:24
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I was getting O2 sensor related CEL for a while and it turned out the wiring to the upstream sensor was too close to the exhaust headers and starting to melt and short out. Apparently it's a common thing people mess up when replacing the exhaust header and they route the cable in the wrong location (the previous owner of my XJ had replaced the exhaust a bit in the past). So yeah check all the wiring from the sensor and make sure nothing is frayed, touching stuff, etc.
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Jun 21, 2018 04:42
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Yeah make sure it's routed around behind the power steering pump under the fuel line, not through the opening between the intake and serpentine belt by the #1 exhaust runner. Also check if your coil is bulging or cracked... It may be failing. Don't replace it if it isn't visibly damaged, but I've had intermittent bogging like that caused by a close-to-dead coil.
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Jun 21, 2018 15:44
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 Just bought this 94 Wrangler the other day and it runs and drives well but will need tires fairly soon. It has 33x12.5x15 tires now and I'm thinking about going to 31" tires so I can actually use all 5 gears and have a little better response elsewhere. In a Facebook group I belong to, they were talking about P vs LT tires and that the P-rated tires ride better because of the weight of a Wrangler vs that of a pickup truck. I didn't buy a YJ for the ride quality but if it's on road 90% of the time and P-rated tires ride better then I might start looking at those this fall. So is there truth to the construction differences of P and LT tires affecting ride or is this one of those internet propagated wive's tales?
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Jun 22, 2018 18:07
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Depends more on the tire in question but there's some truth to it. (also holy hood glare batman) For example, the Falken Wildpeak AT3W I have is available in both P and LT. Even for the same size (P245/70R17, LT245/70R17), the LT has a stiffer sidewall, higher weight rating, 0.2" taller overall height, 4/32" deeper tread, and weighs eight pounds more to account for all of that. With that said I like it far better than the P-series tires I had on it. Even Wranglers aren't *that* light in the grand scheme of things.
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Jun 22, 2018 18:19
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Any tips on replacing the headliner in an XJ? That's probably the next thing I'll be doing after getting new tires. I've already pulled out all the old fabric since it was sagging in several spots and I was getting angry at it. Looks like I'll have to swing by JoAnn Fabrics sometime in the next couple weeks. They sell the foam-backed fabric. And it looks like 3M spray adhesive is my best bet if I don't want it falling off in a month.
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Jun 22, 2018 18:40
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DizzyBum posted:Any tips on replacing the headliner in an XJ? That's probably the next thing I'll be doing after getting new tires. I've already pulled out all the old fabric since it was sagging in several spots and I was getting angry at it. But, failing that, as I understand it, you need to completely clean *all* old foam and adhesive off, then apply the new stuff. My experience with trying this was that it was nearly impossible, and the interior feels significantly roomier without the headliner anyway. And now it accepts stickers, and is a good place to track oil change intervals! Also, unrelated to hoodliners: IOwnCalculus posted:holy hood glare batman Krakkles fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 18:59
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I helped a friend do an xj, it's a big board to clean for sure. The material is very durable so you need to get into it with a wire brush to take it all off. Upholstery shops actually use a pneumatic die grinder with a wire wheel attachment. Joann is where we always buy the material and it's specific for headliners. As far as method you want to do like50% overlap with the spray adhesive, don't be shy. Then you'll lay the fabric on and smooth it out on to the board about a foot at a time. You'll be moving across the board with the fabric rolled back over your arm. It's a lot easier than you think to get it nice and wrinkle free. Definitely take some time too. iirc the adhesive needs to cure in the air for a few minutes before you start to roll on.
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Jun 22, 2018 19:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:(also holy hood glare batman) Yeah, that was the first thing I saw that I decided I was removing when I purchased it last Tuesday. Probably coming off tomorrow.
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Jun 22, 2018 20:07
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I think it varies a little by year what material is underneath - the earlier years have a very soft fiberglass mat that a wire brush would tear apart, the later years have a more solid board underneath. If you have the soft earlier model, I hear you can get a tub of something like fiberglass boat hull patch/sealer and smooth it on the mat to get a firmer surface to adhere the fabric to. Either way, think of the headliner as two parts - the sound/heat insulation and the fabric. You don't need to buy anything with foam on the back, you're just resurfacing the existing insulation layer. I redid my 1988 and it wasn't all that bad. I didn't bother with any fiberglass goop. You'll want to remove all the ceiling trim pieces that hold your headliner in, and pull the whole thing out. I used about two cans of regular 3M adhesive (too cheap to spring for the headliner-specific stuff) and had a second person help me lay the material evenly on the mat. The material was about $7 worth of felt I found at WalMart; it was the exact tan color of my interior and extremely cheap. I had struck out at JoAnne and a couple local fabric shops. Don't stretch it over the edes so tightly it pulls itself off around the downward curves, just smooth it into the contours and let the adhesive dry completely before folding it over to the backside and gluing it. Mine has held perfectly for going on three or four years now despite being parked outside in SoCal summers and lots of long bumpy trips in the desert. It's also a convenient time to run any cb/ham antenna cabling you might want.
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Jun 22, 2018 20:19
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I think it varies a little by year what material is underneath - the earlier years have a very soft fiberglass mat that a wire brush would tear apart, the later years have a more solid board underneath. If you have the soft earlier model, I hear you can get a tub of something like fiberglass boat hull patch/sealer and smooth it on the mat to get a firmer surface to adhere the fabric to. Either way, think of the headliner as two parts - the sound/heat insulation and the fabric. You don't need to buy anything with foam on the back, you're just resurfacing the existing insulation layer. I have a '99 with the soft fiberglass board. What should I use to clean the remaining foam off the board that won't destroy it?
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Jun 23, 2018 15:38
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I'd use a nylon bristle brush. If that doesn't work well enough step up to a metal brush. The factory used foam backed cloth... You can use plain cloth but it might come out looking a bit more lumpy without the foam to fill in minor imperfections.
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Jun 24, 2018 01:12
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How should I troubleshoot overvoltage on a '00 XJ? Driving on the highway yesterday, the gauge pinned at 19v for a bit. Given it's a Chrysler and it's previously exhibited a tendency for gauges to go a bit wonky, and it was still driving fine, I kept going, and it soon returned to normal. When getting off the freeway, it was apparent that the transmission had gone into limp mode, but restarting resolved this, so I think this was due to the TPS having too many volts available. Apparently voltage is actually regulated by the ECM, not the alternator? I thought that I had resolved this and some other previous issues with sensors when I found some corrosion on the ECM plug, but when driving home, the voltage strayed up to about 16v intermittently, to the point of headlights brightening and dimming. Obviously I'll recheck that it didn't somehow get corroded again, but that seems unlikely given I cleaned and protected it. Should I just replace the alternator, or is there something else I should be looking at? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jun 25, 2018 |
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Jun 25, 2018 16:56
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I seem to have run into a maintenance cascade on my TJ. I need to replace my cat converter because it sounds like a can full of gravel. If I'm going to do that I may as well replace my rusty old exhaust. If I'm going to have the exhaust off I may as well get around to doing the leaky rear main seal and oil pan gasket. If I'm going to go to that trouble I may as well do the valve cover gasket as well...  I'm sure I'm going to figure out some other poo poo to do at the same time before I get around to this list as well.
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Jun 25, 2018 18:14
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I bet the alternator needs to be replaced. IIRC the headlights are wired directly through a switch in the console to the battery / alternator power and never get power from the ECU. So if those are acting wonky and brightening, dimming, etc. I doubt it's anything ECU related.
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Jun 25, 2018 18:19
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