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Site plans are finally with the city for approval. Final size is 18'x28' external dimension. 22' will be scissor truss to give a 12' ceiling without having too massive of a structure, the last 6' will be storage trusses to have a place to stash less often used items.
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# ? Feb 25, 2018 03:45 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 00:57 |
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Just enough ceiling for a lift
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# ? Feb 26, 2018 07:00 |
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That's the plan. I'm going with a 2 post rotary inground lift sunk down so I can drop a plate over the top when it's not in use and have a clear floor. Since the garage is fairly narrow, for a shop, being able to use the entire thing when the lift isn't in use is pretty important.
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# ? Feb 27, 2018 01:51 |
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Ok, may I suggest that you have a corner of your lift recess be sunk enough for a bucket or something to sit in, to catch all the spilled fluids / ice melt? Everything is going to flow into your lift cubby.
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# ? Feb 27, 2018 06:32 |
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I finally bought the big rear end tool box (reward for selling my truck, so I had to have it delivered ) I've been eyeing for a long time finally. Still transferring everything over to it, but my garage should be nearly complete. Just needs some more lighting and wiring done.
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# ? Apr 3, 2018 13:03 |
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Barn Chat. At the farm my parents presently own, there are two quonset-hut like structures. One is on a concrete pad and where my 1988 Toyota Pickup lives. The other has served its time as a dairy barn and the main floor is cinderblock walls with two quonset-huts butted end-to-end that serve as the second floor. This building also once stored a hoard that included over 200 computers, at least 30 cars, hundreds of turn tables and other pieces of audio equipment from every era imaginable, at least one concept car (sadly, scrapped), the pure unadulterated self-loathing a thin elderly german man has for both himself and life and, a moonshine still made out of an old water heater under the stairwell. The carpenter ants and poor initial construction of the foot of this wall meant that eventually a really windy day was going to do something bad to this building that could wax long about cattle and germans and project cars. Quonset-hut end walls segments bolt to each other and to a bottom track that bolts to the floor, but only slot into the top track along the roof. They are meant to be supported securely from the bottom. The wall was actually in real danger of sliding out of the upstairs and getting even more hosed up. My father had hooked up a series of straps to keep it from doing so until we could tackle putting the wall back up. To remedy this we decided to not completely unbolt the wall segments from one another, that's probably 500-8000000 1/2" hex head bolts with 9/16" SQUARE nuts... We opted to split it where the lower metal track pieces meet up and only undo about 20ish bolts. In theory we think we can lift each section into place by ourselves, if not, we'll split them again. Yes, that is a mini excavator holding the other section of the wall so it doesn't slide out onto the ground and require even more disassembly to get back upstairs. Sadly my phone battery was dying so I didn't take any pictures of most of the demo and the block wall repair. The four blocks on the top row to the right of the left window fell off during demo and had to be mortared back on, doesn't look pro but at least they're level and not going to be loose anymore. The lintels above the windows proved to be made of mortar and expanded sheet metal and are gone. We got a little bit of lumber, mostly 2x10s and are going to do some more on it tomorrow.
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# ? Apr 24, 2018 02:48 |
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On today's episode of This 80s (?) Barn we only spent a few hours working on it today. I had errands to run in the afternoon but at least most of the reframing is complete. Yesterday finished with repairing the block wall, so here's a picture of that. What is left of the floor joist and lintels after demo, not even really fit to be firewood. Next step is to restructure the floor to better support the quonset-hut end wall. Originally the bottom track was lagged to a 2x4 that essentially rode on the outside face of the joist to hold up the upstairs wall. This is being done by adding a 2x10 block on each ciderblock with the appropriate overhang, followed by pressure-treated 2x10s that will serve as the new joists. The block in the middle is actually 3/4" too short and the overhang is about 6" to actually line up with the outside edge of where the wall track goes. On top of this is a strip of plywood and another pressure treated 2x10 that the track will be re-lagged to. New lintels were made from 3 pieces of 2x8 each, they still don't rest on the block wall, but at least they're more substantial than an inch of parging. Here's a picture of the first 16 of 38 feet mostly done. Have to block off the bottom still too. Tomorrow will be finishing the rest of this and maybe we'll get some of the steel wall put back up too.
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# ? Apr 25, 2018 00:57 |
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Footings went in today, things should start moving along quicker now.
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# ? May 10, 2018 02:38 |
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Haven't posted an update in a while. I pretty much have a structure at this point.
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# ? Jun 28, 2018 02:58 |
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That's really nice looking. Far better than most added-on garages. I'll be interested to see how the quick jack recess works.
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# ? Jun 28, 2018 14:01 |
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What's happened since I last posted about my garage? I bought a bandsaw and need space before it arrives, hence my garage now has more crap and less space. I don't think I'm doing it right. I need to junk a bunch of stuff to make space.
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# ? Jun 28, 2018 14:24 |
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FatCow posted:Haven't posted an update in a while. I pretty much have a structure at this point. I wish I could add on a garage with a lift without it looking weird, and having the space to do so.
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# ? Jun 28, 2018 15:30 |
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sharkytm posted:That's really nice looking. Far better than most added-on garages. I'll be interested to see how the quick jack recess works. That's not a quickjack. I get 6 feet of lift out of that after backing out the recess's depth. The lift is actually already there in the center, the arms aren't bolted on yet. I'm only 5'7" so it's pretty much perfect.
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# ? Jun 29, 2018 02:51 |
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I have decided that, instead of demo'ing my existing 3.6x7 (ish) metre garage, I am going to fix it up a bit where it's dodgy, and build a ~5x5m carport attached to the front of it, with a new concrete slab & some good lighting in the carport. This will cost ~an order of magnitude less than getting a new garage of a decent size, and hopefully still give me somewhere dry to park my truck (and my housemate's truck) and work on it. Tell me I'm not dumb
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# ? Jun 29, 2018 05:19 |
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Sound fine, what's the current garage look like?
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# ? Jun 29, 2018 09:51 |
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Pretty poo poo
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# ? Jun 29, 2018 10:55 |
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NitroSpazzz posted:Here's the wall in question, there's around 7.5 feet between the wall and the stairs so plenty of space for cars to roll past. Current plan is make the section between the 2nd stub from the wall to the stud past the steps removable, that's a bit over 6 feet if I remember right. I'd like to avoid leaving it open so either have that section removable (just slide out of the way) or maybe get fancy and hinge it somehow. Have all the dimensions somewhere but not on hand with me. So from a year or so ago we bought this house. An hour after closing I knocked out a 6.5 foot wide chunk of wall, stuck three cars a bunch of poo poo back there then got busy with other crap. Now that renovation is done, new deck is on and all the 'important' stuff is done I'm getting back to the garage. I also didn't take any pictures of it other than snapchat. Yesterday widened the hole to just under 7.5' and cleaned up the drywall a bit. Picked up supplies to build a hinged partition wall on casters to cut down the heat coming up the stairs and look slightly less lovely. I'll work on that this week if work and energy cooperates. Wiring chat: There's currently one outlet and one light bulb per side, this needs to change. I was curious so I got a couple quotes to install a poo poo load of lights and outlets which came back about twice what I'm willing to pay. Ordering a pallet of 4' flush mount lights and bulbs then I guess I'll start installing and running things. Friend is an electrician and said he's come to final hook up and check my work.
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# ? Jul 1, 2018 17:50 |
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Finally, over the last few weekends, got this taken care of. Opening is 7.5' wide and 8' tall so all the cars fit through with plenty of space. Isn't pretty but it'll do the job. Ignore the absolute disaster that is the rest of the garage. Need to trim shims and finish the trim then clean up the screws and give it a coat of paint at some point. Need to figure out some latches that'll pull things tight/together.
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# ? Jul 22, 2018 20:41 |
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What sort of hinges did you put something that massive on?
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# ? Jul 22, 2018 20:56 |
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They're probably a bit under spec but just heavy duty ones from home depot. Think they're rated for 90lb a piece or maybe a bit more. They seem to be fine so far and with how little use it'll see I'm not super concerned. I'll keep an eye on them and upgrade if needed. Casters are rated for 90lb a piece and there's four of those. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jul 22, 2018 |
# ? Jul 22, 2018 22:58 |
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I didn't realize you had it on wheels too, that's a slick setup.
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# ? Jul 23, 2018 01:28 |
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You can just barely see them in the picture with it open. First design had them evenly spaced on the studs but that was going to be a pain to build, I suck with lumber and woodworking. Second design I stuck them all in the last ~8" of the door evenly spaced and it seems to work pretty nice.
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# ? Jul 23, 2018 09:14 |
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Construction is all done. Lift should be finished up next week, then it's time to do a lot of work on the inside.
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# ? Aug 12, 2018 02:52 |
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Nice! What model lift are you going for?
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# ? Aug 12, 2018 07:56 |
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Rotary SL210. It's actually already in there, just needs the arms to be attached and the pump to be mounted on the wall.
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 02:12 |
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what's everyone's rule (equation?) for workbench height? just moved and need to get this poo poo built asap. last one was too tall because i wanted it to clear my HF tool chest which was on casters at that time, and will now sit on some 2x4s or 4x4s instead.
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 04:48 |
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I started with my kitchen benchtop and stacked books and chopping boards on it until I found a height that felt comfortable for me to work at, which was pretty much dead nuts 1000mm
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 05:00 |
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BraveUlysses posted:what's everyone's rule (equation?) for workbench height? just moved and need to get this poo poo built asap. last one was too tall because i wanted it to clear my HF tool chest which was on casters at that time, and will now sit on some 2x4s or 4x4s instead. I built this bench. http://woodgears.ca/workbench/ I think the idea is if you're planning to put anything you'll work on on the bench that you want to have it low enough you can bend over it slightly to put your body weight behind your work when needed.
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 05:24 |
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We’re building a house and the standard kitchen countertop height is around 900mm. I think I would like it taller as I’m 186 but I have to compromise with the missus who’s... not. Depends a lot on your own build, but for me I’d go 950-1000 I think.
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 05:34 |
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Kitchen counter height is a good starting point, so is groin height I believe. If you're doing a lot of fine detail type work it should be set higher. An adjustable shop stool helps a lot in that regard.
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# ? Aug 14, 2018 01:49 |
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Speaking of stools. I need to get one or two. Any recommended brands or ones to avoid?
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# ? Aug 14, 2018 01:59 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:Speaking of stools. I need to get one or two. Any recommended brands or ones to avoid? Find a bar that's renovating or closing and snag a couple old barstools is what I'd do. That or IKEA-spec. So I've got a drill press in my attached now and chips are becoming an issue. Despite my efforts to wear covvies and use a dedicated pair of shop shoes they're still tracking into the house en masse. Any tips for controlling this other than put a magnet on it somewhere and be less of a slob?
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# ? Aug 14, 2018 03:06 |
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Unless you need a padded seat any stool will do. Buy a tall one at Target and trim the legs to fit your desired height.
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# ? Aug 14, 2018 03:44 |
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NumbersMatching320 posted:Find a bar that's renovating or closing and snag a couple old barstools is what I'd do. That or IKEA-spec. A broom is all you need. Be diligent about cleanup, don't just leave that poo poo around, it's destructive. Shop vac is faster than broom. Our guys who hate cleanup rigged a shop vac holder so the hose is right there next to the drill and sucks up the chips as they're made.
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# ? Aug 14, 2018 04:36 |
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Lift is in. This is full extension. Unfortunately the lift arms got redesigned at some point, so the one I measured was smaller than the one I have. I'll have to have a concrete guy come out and make the pit wider + longer by about .5"
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# ? Aug 22, 2018 22:40 |
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Neat lift. Is the plywood to cover the (trench? hole? depression)? It does seem like a bit of a trip hazard when you're eyes up looking at the underside of the vehicle. Sucks about the measurements being wrong. The concrete was done so nice and sharp...
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# ? Aug 22, 2018 22:55 |
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Yea that concrete work is ace. So jealous of the lift, that's awesome.
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 00:12 |
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angryrobots posted:Neat lift. Is the plywood to cover the (trench? hole? depression)? It does seem like a bit of a trip hazard when you're eyes up looking at the underside of the vehicle. With the exception of where the posts are it'll be flat.
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 02:16 |
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Very nice and jealous! Out of curiosity, do you have a drain set up for that?
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 05:27 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 00:57 |
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No.
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 02:55 |