|
Usually steel screws are the best for reliability/not stripping their heads. Go for hex head screws over phillips/slot heads. Only use aluminium or titanium screws if you want to reduce weight or bling factor.
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2018 01:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 00:24 |
|
|
I don't think I've seen a Phillips or slotted screw on an RC car since my RC12i 
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2018 03:12
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I don't think I've seen a Phillips or slotted screw on an RC car since my RC12i You've not bought tamiya then. :-) They may be phillips, but they are ~good quality~ screws. You Am I posted:Usually steel screws are the best for reliability/not stripping their heads. Go for hex head screws over phillips/slot heads. Only use aluminium or titanium screws if you want to reduce weight or bling factor. There's a lot of variation in "steel" screws. I should have said look for "Grade 12.9" screws. The hardness lends itself to preserving the shape of the fastener head, and won't round out. I suspect the screws that came with my kit are grade 8.8, and the lack of care in painting them isn't a real help either.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2018 18:24
|
|
|
This is absolutely the knowledge I wanted, even if I'm not currently in the market to buy some screws right now. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2018 21:03
|
|
|
Are there any tricks to installing aftermarket tires onto beadlocks to have them run true? I just mounted my first pair (proline hyraxes) onto rc4wd beadlocks and with the wheel running true and the bead perfectly aligned the hyraxes run hilariously untrue: there almost half an inch of runoff on 2 of them. Is that fixable? Are the proline foams just garbage? Am I supposed to gently caress with the foams til it gets better? Somebody please tell me what’s going on!
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2018 19:34
|
|
|
The RC4WD beadlocks are a huge pain in the rear end. I absolutely hate them. You may need this https://store.rc4wd.com/19-Proline-Tire-Compatible-Internal-Beadlock-Rings_p_2878.html for your set.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2018 18:02
|
|
|
I’m already returning them for some proline wheels, but good to know for next time. A colleague is buying my hyraxes so I’ll get class 1’s instead and hopefully that’ll all fit better together and under the truck.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2018 18:04
|
|
|
Did a four(!) day event, the AOC - Asian OnRoad Series. This round was hosted in my home town of Melbourne for the Australian round. Managed to get second outright in my finals (not in the class in total, just in that particular group) which was great due to the lack of touring car driving I have done, the first big event for my Xray and the first time in my RC life that I have driven on carpet. It was great fun, and a very well run event, even if one round ran for nearly four hours. Here's a pic of my car, the shell was painted by a very skilled friend of mine:  The signatures on the body are of the top drivers at that event.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2018 12:52
|
|
|
Awesome! What did you think of the carpet? Black or grey? I went racing this weekend too. I wasn't ever last, but my consistency sucks. And my TC4 just isn't competitive.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2018 09:37
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:Awesome! What did you think of the carpet? Black or grey? It was black ETS carpet. It was a little slippery at first as it was brand new, took a day or so for all the additive from the tyres to build up in it. Once a driving line had appeared on the track, it was great. Go anywhere off that line and you spent a lap getting the tyres clean again. Looks like the club is going to sell off the carpet, as they worry that putting it into storage for a year with no use will probably end up with garbage carpet when they pull it out.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2018 10:22
|
|
|
Ugh, lines. That's one of the benefits of having an established club surface. You have noobs, and slow guys getting the groove spread out. And after a couple cycles of layout changes, you get rubber, compound, and fuzz picked up from all over the carpet. To continue from my weekend. I broke out my TT02b, and turned a few laps. At a "gentle pace" it handles the track really well. Crank up to moderate, and the back end becomes completely unmanageable. It'll hike a rear tire, then over-rotate. Off of jumps, unless you really are into holding the throttle down, the backend wants to advance past the nose.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2018 15:29
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:You've not bought tamiya then. :-) They may be phillips, but they are ~good quality~ screws. Tamiy is JIS (Japan Industry standard or something), not Philips I think.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2018 08:32
|
|
|
Correct. That's why they're such a pain in the rear end to use with Phillips screwdrivers.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 19:55
|
|
|
So I'm still enjoying playing around with my CC01 but I want to get into something for on-road shenanigans, too. What do you guys like for radios running multiple cars? I'm not really looking to race at all so telemetry isn't really important. Looking for something that's not total rear end but also won't break the bank. Any recommendations?
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 20:59
|
|
|
So... I now have ordered, all five, and have in my hands, two of, the cheap touring cars on the market. The VBC Ghost 18, the 3-Racing Sakura XI Sport ver.Nu, the Turnigy TD10 v2, the Xpress XQ1s, and the Blaze R2. I have the Sakura and TD10 right now. The rest are in the mail.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 21:47
|
|
|
Waiting to hear about the Xpress. Their m chassis looks intriguing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 22:00
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:So I'm still enjoying playing around with my CC01 but I want to get into something for on-road shenanigans, too. What do you guys like for radios running multiple cars? I'm not really looking to race at all so telemetry isn't really important. Looking for something that's not total rear end but also won't break the bank. Any recommendations?
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 22:02
|
|
|
Futaba, Sanwa (airtronics), are still out there... So is Graunper.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 22:17
|
|
|
I used to use Spektrum controllers, but paid the big bucks for the top of the line (at that time) Sanwa M12S and holy poo poo that's a nice controller. So easy to work out what you are actually doing on the controller end. The M17 looks a bit garbage though, with the touch screen interface.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2018 01:22
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:I have the Sakura and TD10 right now. The rest are in the mail. The VBC Ghost 18 showed up, and I built it. But I was unable to finish it... one DCJ is mis-machined. so it wont' pass through the bearings. It also came with two A, two B suspension mounts, and no C mount, so.... poo. TQ is working with VBC to correct that problem. But there's nothing to cover the quality of the manual. It's pretty awful. At least it came with two setup sheets. The Blaze R2 showed up too, and it arrived assembled. But unlike any of the other cars, it came with a pinion. I also started building the test jig. I am using CA to glue the aluminum mounts to the granite plate. I think i'm going to use some steel/lead shot in bags as weights to load the chassis for longitudinal stiffness. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jul 27, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2018 22:43
|
|
|
I played with some 1/5 cars on Monday including one that is a production sample of a car to be released later this month  Big cars are pretty neat. EDIT: Also realized I didn't post any photos from the finished FG car. Body is next to get painted.     Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Aug 1, 2018 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2018 19:35
|
|
|
Fired up my YetiXL for the first time in a couple years. drat, I love that thing with the 2x 2S. Going to 2x 3S it's drat near psychotic and scares children and mothers walking with them.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2018 01:04
|
|
|
Hey, VBC sent me the new outdrives! I can build this thing. ... This weekend, while driving awfully during a points race, I was able to get my Sakura XI tuned, and drivable. Also, I shattered a servo case. And fried my Novak BOSS esc. :-(
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2018 21:02
|
|
|
So I smaked my Yeti XL into a post last night, breaking the right rear shock off the mount. The mount itself seems OK. XL parts don't seem terribly common, can I use basically any 1/8 shock? Sorry if it's a dumb question, not a huge RC guy 
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2018 20:34
|
|
|
slidebite posted:So I smaked my Yeti XL into a post last night, breaking the right rear shock off the mount. The mount itself seems OK. Do you need the shock cap? or shock rod end? What part broke specifically? The place I work for stocks every single YXL part and we do ship to Canuckistan (if I remember correctly where you live...)
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2018 20:55
|
|
|
The story gets better. The Xpress XQ1s arrived. And it came completely without driveshafts, or the dogbone blades. And it came with 4 3x6x2.5mm bearings, when I needed 4 5x8.5x2.5mm bearings for the steering rack. .... *shakes head*
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2018 22:26
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:The story gets better. The Xpress XQ1s arrived. And it came completely without driveshafts, or the dogbone blades. And it came with 4 3x6x2.5mm bearings, when I needed 4 5x8.5x2.5mm bearings for the steering rack.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2018 08:21
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:The story gets better. The Xpress XQ1s arrived. And it came completely without driveshafts, or the dogbone blades. And it came with 4 3x6x2.5mm bearings, when I needed 4 5x8.5x2.5mm bearings for the steering rack. Don't worry, I dropped close to $250 on a new servo only to find out it is the wrong one and won't fit in my Xray
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2018 09:10
|
|
|
Somewhat Heroic posted:Do you need the shock cap? or shock rod end? What part broke specifically? The place I work for stocks every single YXL part and we do ship to Canuckistan (if I remember correctly where you live...) I'll take a better look at it, but I think if you can just buy parts the cap (the part where the top mounting bolt goes through) is broken off, but the whole thing might be tweaked a bit too so I might need to replace the whole unit. Maybe with something stronger? Although to be fair it's really the first bit of damage its taken and it was a good hit. And yeah,  good memory 
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2018 14:14
|
|
|
slidebite posted:I'll take a better look at it, but I think if you can just buy parts the cap (the part where the top mounting bolt goes through) is broken off, but the whole thing might be tweaked a bit too so I might need to replace the whole unit. Maybe with something stronger? Although to be fair it's really the first bit of damage its taken and it was a good hit. http://www.davesmotors.com/Axial-AX31030-Big-Bore-Shock-Cap-Parts-16mm.html in stock. If "the whole thing is tweaked" then it is possible the shock shaft got a little bent. We have those too: http://www.davesmotors.com/Axial-AX31081-Ti-Nitride-Coated-Shock-Shaft-4x83mm-2-.html There are not really any upgrades, and I have not looked to see if any other shocks fit the YXL. The stock units work really quite good so I would just rebuild. We have 1st class (standard) shipping to Canada. Canada post is the worst and we have seen anything from ~7 days for delivery to 6 weeks. Express shipping is 1-2 days for delivery. I am not a pro at Canada import laws but generally under $100 USD value doesn't get dinged for customs import fees.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2018 15:48
|
|
|
Thanks for the link - I'll take a better look at it today! And yeah, I am totally aware Canada post is a roll of the dice, but to be honest I'm in no rush (literally just started using it again after 2 years since I bought it) so a few weeks, even more, isn't a big deal
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2018 16:24
|
|
|
evil_bunnY posted:And people wonder why traxxas is popular I had been spoiled by Tamiya, Team Associated, and Kyosho. I still, really, dislike Traxxas. You Am I posted:Don't worry, I dropped close to $250 on a new servo only to find out it is the wrong one and won't fit in my Xray I... want to hear more about that story. What servo? what chassis?
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2018 18:47
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:I had been spoiled by Tamiya, Team Associated, and Kyosho. I still, really, dislike Traxxas. Kid’s car lost propulsion on one corner. Turns out that happens when you build that corner with no hex pin. That’s on top of tires/foams so misaligned the wheels have at least 5mm of overrun. I loving hate the TRX proprietary connectors and kinda weak sauce servos and expensive upgrades but at least they’re made semi-properly to begin with.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2018 21:44
|
|
|
evil_bunnY posted:flysky is p much the only option that's not spektrum. It's not the only option, but it is the only option that has cheap as poo poo receivers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2018 22:29
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:I had been spoiled by Tamiya, Team Associated, and Kyosho. I still, really, dislike Traxxas. MSK standard size servo, the front of the servo jammed hard against the steering posts in my Xray T4 2018. I was supposed to buy the MSK short servo. Ah well, the standard one will be put into one of the Minis instead.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2018 01:50
|
|
|
Xpress is replacing the parts. Woohoo! I still need to wait for chinese shipping. :-/ You Am I posted:MSK standard size servo, the front of the servo jammed hard against the steering posts in my Xray T4 2018. I was supposed to buy the MSK short servo. Ah well, the standard one will be put into one of the Minis instead. Amusingly, I just bought a 2018 Xray T4. (3 weeks ago?) It fits a standard size servo just fine. It might make receiver and ESC space tight, but the length of the servo shouldn't matter. Do you have pictures?
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2018 06:59
|
|
|
Nah, I pulled it out and put my old trusty Futaba 9551 back in. drat thing has been in near constant use since my Tamiya TRF 415
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2018 07:09
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:It's not the only option, but it is the only option that has cheap as poo poo receivers. I use a stick radio because programming anything that’s not opentx gives me shivers, but flysky has decent surface and air radios and if you’re not into programming silly things into them you’ll be fine. Flysky will sell you a 6ch surface radio + 6ch gyro receiver for under a hundred bucks, which is stupid value. I don’t know how well it manages onroad, but the stabilization is excellent for bombing around in the dirt. evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Aug 10, 2018 |
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2018 07:55
|
|
|
hahah, good answer. You're gonna make me try to throw my TG-411MG into mine. .... There's far to much stuff going on with RC in my house right now. I need to get on the chassis testing thing. I have WWWAaaaayyyyy to many cars here right now. Looking back, I still haven't gotten the chassis weights yet, either. Touring cars: TT01e, TA07, FF03, XQ1s, Ghost18, Blaze R2, TC4, Sakura XI, 2018 T4, TD10 v2. Minis: M05, M07 Everything else: F104, TT02b, DT02, TRF201 I think that's sixteen. On that disturbing note. Anyone in the market for a cheap touring car?
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2018 09:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 00:24 |
|
|
The other week when a friend was over grabbing a couple of things I showed him some of my RC cars he hadn't seen before and did a count. The number was five higher than I thought.
There might be another thing I am forgetting but I believe that is the entirety of it. All electric cars are brushless, mostly nice sensored systems. Pretty much nothing is stock. Just this week I sold my FG Sportsline sedan seeing as I will drive the EVO every time over the Sportsline car. That tuned into enough hobby money that I am likely going to try and sell off my SCX10II kit as a roller for ~$250 or complete minus RX/TX for ~$400. That will give me enough hobby money that I can buy the Vanquish VS4-10 Origin truck. Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Aug 10, 2018 |
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2018 15:26
|
|