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EssOEss
Oct 23, 2006
128-bit approved
I am looking to upgrade my local storage and add some capacity. Quiet disks are my priority, as I do not have my equipment in a noise isolated location. Right now I use WD Red drives which are great for low noise but only 5400 rpm. I am thinking of using WD Red Pro, which is 7200 rpm but am unsure how much extra noise this increase in speed causes. I checked out the numbers online but if someone has personal experience I would love to hear some real world commentary. 10 TB variant in question at the moment.

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ufarn
May 30, 2009
I have a second SSD with no dedicated mounting bracket in my beQuiet Dark Base 900, and I’d rather not take up all the space in an HDD bay, so I wondered whether there are options to buy a mounting bracket for:

- a 140mm fan mount (completely flat since there isn’t a lot of vertical space)
- on the motherboard backplate since my D14 doesn’t require something there anyway

Or elsewhere - without it looking like rear end obviously I could always do something ugly like duct tape it to my PSU or whatever, but I’m trying to keep it classy.

Unfortunately, my case has neither PSU shroud nor another SSD mount on the back; those slots are taken up by an SSD and the fan controller already.

Atomizer
Jun 24, 2007



EssOEss posted:

I am looking to upgrade my local storage and add some capacity. Quiet disks are my priority, as I do not have my equipment in a noise isolated location. Right now I use WD Red drives which are great for low noise but only 5400 rpm. I am thinking of using WD Red Pro, which is 7200 rpm but am unsure how much extra noise this increase in speed causes. I checked out the numbers online but if someone has personal experience I would love to hear some real world commentary. 10 TB variant in question at the moment.

Generally faster-spinning drives are going to be louder and hotter, but I can't quantify how much so, and even then you're only going to get subjective responses unless someone's actually done a noise level test with the specific drives you're looking at at a fixed distance.

ufarn posted:

I have a second SSD with no dedicated mounting bracket in my beQuiet Dark Base 900, and I’d rather not take up all the space in an HDD bay, so I wondered whether there are options to buy a mounting bracket for:

- a 140mm fan mount (completely flat since there isn’t a lot of vertical space)
- on the motherboard backplate since my D14 doesn’t require something there anyway

Or elsewhere - without it looking like rear end obviously I could always do something ugly like duct tape it to my PSU or whatever, but I’m trying to keep it classy.

Unfortunately, my case has neither PSU shroud nor another SSD mount on the back; those slots are taken up by an SSD and the fan controller already.

You could make more efficient use of your available 3.5" and 5.25" bays with multi-drive mounts, specifically this one for 2x 2.5" - 3.5" or how about 4x 2.5" to 5.25"? (There are other options from that same manufacturer.) I mean that's a huge case, there's no way you're using all of those drive bays already....

Another option is to use stick-on Velcro....

EssOEss
Oct 23, 2006
128-bit approved
Yeah, subjective assessments are what I am after - I found some noise level test results online but "I can't watch a quiet movie with the disk in use" would be some great input to have.

Worf
Sep 12, 2017

If only Seth would love me like I love him!

I recently built a little gaming PC out of a dell SFF and used a single screw and some electrical tape to hold an SSD in place :shrug:

Every time I look at the thing I have to resist the temptation to upgrade from a GTX 1050 low pro to a 1050ti low pro

Gromit
Aug 15, 2000

I am an oppressed White Male, Asian women wont serve me! Save me Campbell Newman!!!!!!!

EssOEss posted:

Yeah, subjective assessments are what I am after - I found some noise level test results online but "I can't watch a quiet movie with the disk in use" would be some great input to have.

I really can't picture a hard drive being louder than a movie I'm watching unless my head is literally inside the computer case. Is the rest of your computer all passively cooled so you don't even have fan noise, and you have it upholstered and use it as a pillow? I mean, I can hear the 6 drives in my NAS spin up when I first wake it, but after those 2 seconds I couldn't tell you if they are running or not.
I would expect a little bit of noise if you were doing a lot of random seeks, but for movie watching I would assume contiguous access so you won't hear a thing. Surely your PSU and CPU fans would be the loudest thing?

Llamadeus
Dec 20, 2005

Gromit posted:

Surely your PSU and CPU fans would be the loudest thing?
I don't know about that, a good cooler should be nearly inaudible and modern high end PSUs don't spin the fan at all at low loads.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I've got a silent setup with aircooling, and I think the loudest part of my computer are my 270X fans. Obviously this depends on the load, but if I'm playing a game, I won't be able to hear the fans ramp up anyway.

Are PSUs even that loud these days? Seasonic's even have hybrid mode for finer-tuned fan profiles these days.

Llamadeus
Dec 20, 2005
It varies from unit to unit but the quietest are very quiet and the median is still pretty good:

Wooper
Oct 16, 2006

Champion draGoon horse slayer. Making Lancers weep for their horsies since 2011. Viva Dickbutt.
Fast spinning hard drives are the loudest components in my experience. What with GPUs and PSUs not spinning their fans at idle, these days.

When I'm playing video games or watching videos/movies I'm wearing headphones(open). I generally don't hear my computer doing this. The thing is though, if you have a loud hard drive, Windows will be spinning that hard drive up constantly. The OS is a real piece of poo poo about this.
Opening a folder on your c drive(an SSD) "You want files? I got files!" *spins up every drive in the computer*
Leave the room for 2 minutes and Windows thinks you're never returning from being AFK and be spinning up poo poo.
Drives spin up and you go into Resource Monitor to check what evil processes is touching your spinny drives. It turns out none are. Windows is loving with you again.
You turn off indexing and defragging but it doesn't give a poo poo.
When I had loud drives this poo poo was driving me up the wall. I just want to have some quiet time at my desk. :qq:


I guess I put a premium on my computer being quiet so I've spent however many years just replacing the loudest parts in my computer. The latest one being the PSU. It was one of them which did spin down the fans at idle, and it was fairly quiet otherwise too. However, the fan curve on it was trash and it would constantly spin the fans up and down at idle with a 10 second interval. I replaced it with high watt PSU so it would have more room to 'idle' as my computer idled.
Before that it was my WD Blue HDD which easily drowned out everything else. No case setups or rubber grommets helped either. Now the only HDD I got in my office is a single WD Red(a slow one), that barely hums when running. For extra storage I got a NAS hidden away in a cupboard in another room. It is also filled with WD Reds, and it too, is barely audible.

I'm so over fast hard drives, is what I'm saying, and I'm going to question the need of them in a Personal Computer in tyool 2018. A date later than the invention of SSDs.
Sorry to ramble. I might have PTSD about this.

sebmojo
Oct 23, 2010


Legit Cyberpunk









I put in a cpu cooler and was deeply disappointed when it just ran like an rear end in a top hat the whole time, then after a couple of weeks I fiddled with the bios so it wasn't just going full all the time and it stopped. It was blissful.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I went through the exact same. The default idle speed was ridiculous.

Mr E
Sep 18, 2007

I'm having issues with a few things right now. First, a USB not recognized error has started popping up over and over again. I unplugged the front USB ports and it didn't stop, and it pops up even if no USB ports are in use. I thought a BIOS update might help, but after updating the error still happens and now the UEFI setup is ridiculously laggy using a mouse, and if I use a keyboard whatever key I press acts like it's being pressed over and over again. The time from the BIOS start to windows login seems very slow now compared to a week ago (>1 minute on a SSD). I tried reinstalling Windows 10 and the issue is still happening. Is my mobo dying or what? Inside of Windows everything seems to run fine besides the constant USB error. Device manager keeps refreshing when the error pops up, and a hidden unknown USB device keeps appearing even if I uninstall that device. I have a Asrock Z370 Extreme4, 8700k, and 1080. Resetting the BIOS settings does nothing to fix anything either. I figured I'd ask before trying to RMA anything.

LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

Fun Shoe
The system probably has multiple USB controllers. You might try going in to the device manager and try disabling controllers one at a time. You might be able to get the system to be quiet about the damaged controller.

Atomizer
Jun 24, 2007



That sounds like a similarly troublesome USB issue that I had a week ago. I initially thought it might be related to a USB device, but it turns out it was the USB controller, fortunately on an add-in card that can be replaced of course. Since this is likely related to a built-in component you're going to have to follow Radikal's suggestion and see if you can find the malfunctioning component by disabling things one by one. You may indeed have to exchange your mobo.

Also note that even if you don't have any USB devices connected that you know of, the bus could still be in use by something plugged in internally to headers on the mobo (e.g. a multi-card reader,) and additionally keep in mind that the m.2 physical connector can provide an interface to SATA, PCIe, and USB as well. Thus, you could theoretically have an m.2 card (not an SSD) connected that's actually interfacing via USB (like a wifi adapter, if such a thing exists) and not even realize it.

Mr E
Sep 18, 2007

Alright, I'll try disabling or re-installing the USB controllers and see if that fixes the issue. I'll go ahead and re-seat everything too, and reset the CMOS battery while I have everything apart to see if that fixes the slowdown in the UEFI settings issue.

Mr E
Sep 18, 2007

It didn't fix the issue. The BIOS settings menus seemed responsive for a bit, but then started slowing down again. I was able to disable the USB controllers, which seemed to fix the issue, but re-installing the drivers made it appear again. I don't have any M.2 things connected, and the issue appears w/ a different keyboard & mouse as well. Finally, now the computer will get to the boot menu and ask to select a drive, then either restart or get hung up on a black screen with a _ cursor that I assume should be blinking, but is frozen. The SSD works fine when connected to another computer and boots fine so I'm assuming my mobo is a dud?

Mr E fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Jul 16, 2018

emdash
Oct 19, 2003

and?
I have an EVGA GTX 980 SC ACX 2.0 (gently caress GPU model names) and one of the fans has developed an annoying, persistent clicking. Is there a reliable place I can buy a replacement fan for something like this? Is 88mm the right size fan? Thanks for any info. This noise is driving me nuts and I've tried unscrewing + re-screwing the fan, moving the power wire out of the way, etc.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I'm removing my beQuiet Dark Base 900's fan controller so I'm thinking I might as well use the space for a rear SSD bracket. The case already has one, but it looks like SSD brackets aren't standardized, so does anyone have any idea how I might get one with a mounting screw on the left side like this one:

Geemer
Nov 4, 2010



Email beQuiet and ask if they can sell you another one?

ufarn
May 30, 2009
It's not listed on their accessories page - but it looks like Corsair uses the same variety for their cases:



So it's not a unique bQ design. Nothing just turns up when I try to search for it, and their website is down at the moment; maybe I'm using the wrong terminology, because all the hits are for HDD bay mounts.

Pretty weird how the bracket is quadratic on the left drawing and rectangular on the right one btw.

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Stupid seemingly easy to fix windows 10 issue

Was using my desktop the other day when windows comes up with a windows found errors on your drive, to fix it reboot

I reboot and get a blue screen, now the pc will not boot at all. Just instant blue screen

0xc000000e

I figured the ssd was failing, so I cloned it quickly to save the data

Other pc could see the drive well enough. and it cloned no problems

I pushed the cloned copy over to a brand new ssd. Plug it in and bam Same blue screen

Did some googling and tried having windows repair , it wouldnt

Tried chkdsk and such. No dice

Tried some google results to fix the mbr and such kept getting errors about unable to access the drive

Any help would be great

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




Replace the cable?

See if your BIOS switched out of UEFI or Legacy mode, or ATA/AHCI/RAID.

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

TITTIEKISSER69 posted:

Replace the cable?

See if your BIOS switched out of UEFI or Legacy mode, or ATA/AHCI/RAID.

Tried a few cables, maybe the slot on the mobo is the problem?

I read about the uefi - ata etc etc but I'm so far behind in my knowledge I'm not sure what it should be set as I think I tried all the options in the bios though

EssOEss
Oct 23, 2006
128-bit approved
I have a stack of HDDs that are in use 24/7 and that I want to cool effectively but I am having a hard time figuring out a sensible fan setup. Here's an artist's rendering of my case layout:



The PSU fan I have never seen switch on so we can count that as just an empty fan grill in practice.

The HDDs are the only thing I am really concerned about, since they are concentrated in one stack (of 6) and might get a bit toasty due to constant use. The rest is no concern (relatively speaking). I also want to avoid input via any unfiltered fans and I suppose I need to ensure that I maintain a positive case pressure to avoid sucking in dust via random holes, as well. I also prefer to use larger numbers of fans at slower RPM for quietness, rather than just using fewer fans at higher RPM.

Matching up these requirements seems to be challenging my poor little mind. What would you suggest I do here?

My thinking right now is make the top 3 large fans the inputs and everything else the output. This would lead to negative case pressure, though, potentially inviting dust issues. So I am thinking just have the outputs at the bottom use a lower RPM curve to compensate? Maybe someone else has better ideas. The top-left corner also seems a bit silly to me in this config. Maybe just have the top have 2 fans on the right side? Though that reduces inputs once more.

EssOEss fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Aug 3, 2018

LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

Fun Shoe
How hot are they getting? If the answer is under 50c and they are not doing a lot of cycles, you are fine.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

EssOEss posted:

I have a stack of HDDs that are in use 24/7 and that I want to cool effectively but I am having a hard time figuring out a sensible fan setup. Here's an artist's rendering of my case layout:



The PSU fan I have never seen switch on so we can count that as just an empty fan grill in practice.

The HDDs are the only thing I am really concerned about, since they are concentrated in one stack (of 6) and might get a bit toasty due to constant use. The rest is no concern (relatively speaking). I also want to avoid input via any unfiltered fans and I suppose I need to ensure that I maintain a positive case pressure to avoid sucking in dust via random holes, as well. I also prefer to use larger numbers of fans at slower RPM for quietness, rather than just using fewer fans at higher RPM.

Matching up these requirements seems to be challenging my poor little mind. What would you suggest I do here?

My thinking right now is make the top 3 large fans the inputs and everything else the output. This would lead to negative case pressure, though, potentially inviting dust issues. So I am thinking just have the outputs at the bottom use a lower RPM curve to compensate? Maybe someone else has better ideas. The top-left corner also seems a bit silly to me in this config. Maybe just have the top have 2 fans on the right side? Though that reduces inputs once more.

Your front 140mm fans are blowing across the hard disks so make those draw air in. The fans on the top of the case are where heat rises to, so those should blow out. Balance the rest for positive air pressure. From your picture I'd probably make the bottom 120 draw in but maybe get a filter for it, and the back 140 should ideally be out but it could draw in if it doesn't interfere with your cpu cooler's fan (have them go the same direction, basically). You probably don't need three fans on the top of your case in general so you could always turn one off or take it out if you're concerned about the air pressure in the case.

Gromit
Aug 15, 2000

I am an oppressed White Male, Asian women wont serve me! Save me Campbell Newman!!!!!!!
Hot air rises, so it seems crazy to force air in from the top and suck it out the bottom when you could have physics helping you by doing it the other way around. That way you also have fresh cool air passing first over your HDDs, which you say are your main worry.
efb.

sebmojo
Oct 23, 2010


Legit Cyberpunk









Blue On Blue posted:

Tried a few cables, maybe the slot on the mobo is the problem?

I read about the uefi - ata etc etc but I'm so far behind in my knowledge I'm not sure what it should be set as I think I tried all the options in the bios though

Reseat everything, particularly memory. Try the hd in another computer.

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

sebmojo posted:

Reseat everything, particularly memory. Try the hd in another computer.

Will try , when I did plug it in to another PC o clone the drive before it didnt like that, I had to hot plug it in after windows was already running to see the drive and perform the clone

Ataxerxes
Dec 2, 2011

What is a soldier but a miserable pile of eaten cats and strange language?
So I bought a Roland Rubix22 USB audio interface and I can't get my headset mic to work with it. The mic is a part of the headset but has its own separate 3,5mm plug. It worked fine with my previous Creative interface and the headphones themselves work fine, but for some reason Windows 10 just won't recognize the thing. Is there something I am missing, as the instructions say it should be just plugged in and ready to go? And can someone recommed a gaming mic (separate from headphones, preferably something I can clip to my shirt or something like that) if that setup can't be made to work?

EssOEss
Oct 23, 2006
128-bit approved
Thanks for the cooling design suggestions. I could not figure out a good way to get more fans moving air without creating negative case pressure, so I decided to go with something simple focused on the HDDs.



Time to stress test it and see how it performs.

Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON

Blue On Blue posted:

Did some googling and tried having windows repair , it wouldnt

Was this through installation media or the built-in startup repair?

If you attempted the latter and not the former give it a try. I've seen the installation media repair function work when nothing else would.

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Geoj posted:

Was this through installation media or the built-in startup repair?

If you attempted the latter and not the former give it a try. I've seen the installation media repair function work when nothing else would.

Well , I had our IT guy come and look. His solution was to wipe the drive and install windows


Great, installed fine. I just finished setting most of my stuff up and did a restart to finalize some programs

Now I'm getting reboot and select proper boot device

This has to be related to eufi or whatever , I've tried all the bios options uefi on. Legacy mode on , drive is in ahci mode ( only other option is Intel optane)

Its driving me insane the drive is there. Its visible in the bios. It simply refuses to use it as a boot device

I reseated the ram. Check all cables

And tried other SATA ports just now, swapping cables around between other devices that work

:EDIT:

I know one of the problems before the wipe was a partition issue, in that somehow the main partition was turned into some weird type I've never seen before (GPT?)

And that made windows not want to load on it, so it had to be wiped.

I wonder if it somehow keeps making itself a GPT parition and the BIOS doesn't know what to do with it??


Blue On Blue fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Aug 4, 2018

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

EssOEss posted:

Thanks for the cooling design suggestions. I could not figure out a good way to get more fans moving air without creating negative case pressure, so I decided to go with something simple focused on the HDDs.



Time to stress test it and see how it performs.

I think exhausting out the bottom is a pretty bad idea and you should either flip that fan around or move it to the top of the case and have it exhaust from there.

Hipster_Doofus
Dec 20, 2003

Lovin' every minute of it.
I would get a filter for the bottom fan and turn it around, and then probably not even run the top fans. The positive pressure and heat rising should do just fine. If you're going to run a top fan, I'd run the one in the back because it would help pull out cpu heat. Also any dust that comes in from the vent holes above the rear fan will get sucked right back out.

Hipster_Doofus fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Aug 4, 2018

Dongattack
Dec 20, 2006

by Cyrano4747
I have a CM Storm Trooper case and the top fan has started making a awful sound and is clearly on it's last legs. I have never bought or replaced a fan before, can you guys recommend one that fits the top slot? I have no idea what to look for.

Any other pit falls i should be aware of when replacing fans?

Worf
Sep 12, 2017

If only Seth would love me like I love him!

Dongattack posted:

I have a CM Storm Trooper case and the top fan has started making a awful sound and is clearly on it's last legs. I have never bought or replaced a fan before, can you guys recommend one that fits the top slot? I have no idea what to look for.

Any other pit falls i should be aware of when replacing fans?

Per CM website:

 200mm x1, or 140mm x2, or 120mm x2

Those are the ones that fit your top slot(s)

I used noctua fans on my desktop and like them so far. I wanted something air cooled that ran silent when not gaming. Mission accomplished.

Your case has a fan controller so grab something with 4 pins, aka PWM fan.

Noctua NF-A20 PWM premium-quality quiet 200mm fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071SLFBNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zIXzBb1D9BCB4

Is an example of one

simcole
Sep 13, 2003
PATHETIC STALKER
I have a dumb question.

I have a Sager (Clevo) laptop. It has been fantastic. It came with a 250gig m2 ssd 2 years ago. I'm looking to add space to the primary partition and upgrade the m2 slot. It has this model m2 ssd in it currently: SanDisk SD8SN8U256G1122
It says its a 256GB SanDisk X400 M.2 SSD. It says using HWInfo that it's a sata 3 m2 ssd. When I go to buy a replacement one, am I correct I have to find "M2 form factor with Sata3 interface" is all I'm looking for? Can I buy one of those NVME drives or no?

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Worf
Sep 12, 2017

If only Seth would love me like I love him!

This probably cant be answered without knowing what model you have

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