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hagie posted:New to the thread, and high potential Wrangler owner in the near future. I am about a full year out on making the final decision on this (just starting down payment savings after refinancing the house) but I am struggling hard with figuring out the trim specs on a 2018 Sport and Sport S Wrangler. My '12 Sport (2-door) came with dark tinted windows in the hard top, and light tint on the doors. Crank windows and manual locks, but iirc there was an option package that included them (which I did not want).
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Jul 10, 2018 00:47
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I’m looking for an Unlimited, likely a soft top, power windows & doors, keyless entry would be tits and would prefer tinted windows. I’m a big dude so I’m not looking forward to a window roller in my leg/knee. That’s especially the case if I get a manual... I find it interesting that even the most basic model has a push start while offering roll ups and keyed door unlocks.
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Jul 10, 2018 01:17
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Power windows are a pain though if you want to take doors on and off--I'm guessing there's some kind of connector you have to disconnect and reconnect.
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Jul 10, 2018 05:10
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There is no point to locks on a soft top and like mod said, whats the point if you are taking the doors off like you should.
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Jul 10, 2018 06:00
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mod sassinator posted:Power windows are a pain though if you want to take doors on and off--I'm guessing there's some kind of connector you have to disconnect and reconnect. Uh, no they’re not. It’s a plug that doubles as the door strap. No more of a pain than taking the doors off a TJ.
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Jul 10, 2018 06:11
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mod sassinator posted:Power windows are a pain though if you want to take doors on and off--I'm guessing there's some kind of connector you have to disconnect and reconnect. Eh, it's a single connector and takes about 1.5 seconds to undo at most. Anyway, we bought new in 2016 and didn't pay attention to the named trim levels. We ended up with a Sport S with power windows, the nicer sound system and bigger screen, the 3.73 differentials, and the 17" wheels. My inlaws just bought an '18 JKU with the 16 inchers and it looks weird.
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Jul 10, 2018 10:45
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You have the same plug for manual windows anyway.
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Jul 10, 2018 15:01
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Fuel sending unit started leaking on the MJ, through the send line bung on the faceplate. Any way to fix this? I have a new pump/sender on the way, but I'd like to salvage the old one as a spare if possible.
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Jul 10, 2018 15:08
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Braincloud posted:Uh, no they’re not. It’s a plug that doubles as the door strap. No more of a pain than taking the doors off a TJ. Open door and lift up  Godholio posted:You have the same plug for manual windows anyway. No you don't. Only thing on the body touching my doors are the hinges.
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Jul 10, 2018 16:37
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JEEVES420 posted:Only thing on the body touching my doors are the hinges. What about the limiting strap?
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Jul 10, 2018 16:49
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TotalLossBrain posted:What about the limiting strap? Ain’t no limits here, scrub. 
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Jul 10, 2018 18:07
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Adiabatic posted:Fuel sending unit started leaking on the MJ, through the send line bung on the faceplate. Any way to fix this? I have a new pump/sender on the way, but I'd like to salvage the old one as a spare if possible. I can't help you there (JBweld?), but let me know if the new assembly improves your fuel gauge accuracy at all - I've gotten used to just tracking the milage on mine, but I should probably stop being cheap and just replace the whole thing because it's getting worse haha.
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Jul 10, 2018 18:41
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I mean, the current one reads backwards so I'm gonna go ahead and assume the new one's gonna work better.
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Jul 10, 2018 18:46
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Karma Comedian posted:Ain’t no limits here, scrub. Said the wind as it ripped mine off.
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Jul 10, 2018 21:32
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JEEVES420 posted:Said the wind as it ripped mine off. Well yeah, if you’re missing the limiting straps then a JK has one minor extra step. My TJ did not break its straps so it was a wash when I upgraded to a JK. Also, I’m lazy and forget what it’s like to not have power windows like some proletariat 
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Jul 10, 2018 22:10
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Zip up windows are where it's at Until you have to replace them every two years 
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Jul 10, 2018 22:13
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Adiabatic posted:Fuel sending unit started leaking on the MJ, through the send line bung on the faceplate. Any way to fix this? I have a new pump/sender on the way, but I'd like to salvage the old one as a spare if possible. Hate to break it to you but if it is a brand new one, it won't fit. Zero companies make new MJ senders. At all. Many many companies go  XJs and MJs are mostly the same parts right? And list their XJ sender for MJs as well.If it's a junkyard unit, it'll fit. BTW backwards reading is because the gauge cluster is from a 91 or later and the sender is from a 90 or earlier or vise versa. My 91 has that issue right now. The only real way to fix your sender is to pull the plastic components off the frame and braze the cracked spot back up. Mine is doing that too, I've been too lazy to do it for... Six years now. Oh, and 2.5s come with the shittastic AX5 when manual equipped. Those are such weak trannies they explode third gear and sometimes second gear with the stock 2.5 in front of them. I know I'm not gonna convince you not to buy one if the price is right and another comes up for sale but you should know what pain you're signing up for.
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Jul 11, 2018 00:16
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kastein posted:Oh, and 2.5s come with the shittastic AX5 when manual equipped. Those are such weak trannies they explode third gear and sometimes second gear with the stock 2.5 in front of them. I know I'm not gonna convince you not to buy one if the price is right and another comes up for sale but you should know what pain you're signing up for. So even if I'm driving on totally flat roads (again, FL) on stock tire sizes under 50mph it could be a problem? Because honestly most of the Jeeps for sale in this area are beach queens that never go off road, very little of them actually see any kind of heavy duty use. I hear you tho, If I get one I will definitely service it asap, and if it takes a poo poo oh well I'll get another one or upgrade or whatever. What trans does the 4.0 have? I think it's kinda bizarre they have different manuals. Are the slush boxes different too?
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Jul 11, 2018 00:47
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JEEVES420 posted:No you don't. Only thing on the body touching my doors are the hinges. JKs have the plug. I'm assuming JLs do too.
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Jul 11, 2018 00:59
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Serious question, can a 2.5 even do 50mph on the freeway?
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Jul 11, 2018 01:06
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mod sassinator posted:Serious question, can a 2.5 even do 50mph on the freeway? my cj7 with 2.5 was doing 55 on the way home ok
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Jul 11, 2018 01:13
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Just found a '97 with low miles (87k) 4cyl automatic  https://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/cto/d/1997-jeep-wangler-low-miles/6638683920.html Not bad if I can talk the seller down a bit. I'd have to drive it first and see how much of a dog it is with the slushbox.
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Jul 11, 2018 01:32
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Applebees Appetizer posted:So even if I'm driving on totally flat roads (again, FL) on stock tire sizes under 50mph it could be a problem? Because honestly most of the Jeeps for sale in this area are beach queens that never go off road, very little of them actually see any kind of heavy duty use. I hear you tho, If I get one I will definitely service it asap, and if it takes a poo poo oh well I'll get another one or upgrade or whatever. 4.0s come with an AX15 (up to '99), or an NV 3550 (2000-2004 and the company is out of business, internal parts are already going up in price), or an NSG370 (2005 and 2006 only, german-made six-speed). I don't know jack about slushboxes, other than the fact that they won't disgrace any of my vehicles as long as I can get a manual.
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Jul 11, 2018 04:07
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Can you swap in an AX15 onto a 2.5? [e] probably better off just doing the whole drivetrain if you're gonna do that I suppose.
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Jul 11, 2018 05:56
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Applebees Appetizer posted:So even if I'm driving on totally flat roads (again, FL) on stock tire sizes under 50mph it could be a problem? Because honestly most of the Jeeps for sale in this area are beach queens that never go off road, very little of them actually see any kind of heavy duty use. I hear you tho, If I get one I will definitely service it asap, and if it takes a poo poo oh well I'll get another one or upgrade or whatever. Eightbit covered most of this already. I've seen a 2.5 MJ do 97mph. It took a long long time to achieve that, but it did it. Wranglers are more blocky though, ymmv. At one point I had a 2wd AX4, a 4wd AX5, and another 4wd AX5 on my bench. Both AX5s were blown to gently caress. Like, less teeth on some gears than the entire front row of a Garth Brooks concert, blown. I am not sure but I might have pics around still. One AX5 was so shredded it actually had a chunk broken off of the mainshaft where the second and third gears ride on it. The other just had second and third mangled. I used them as well as random parts from the 2wd AX4 (same trans just 2wd and no fifth gear plus other minor differences) to build one decent spare AX5 for my friends. They are truly a poo poo transmission. AX4 came from the stock MJ that did 97, one AX5 came from a friend of a friend's YJ on 33s that never saw anything but pavement, other AX5 came from a stock MJ too. You can upgrade to an AX15 using the bellhousing from a 96-01 4cyl Dodge Dakota but you also have to swap the input gear on your tcase, may need new driveshafts, and may need a custom trans mount or crossmember as well and possibly a 4wd linkage.
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Jul 11, 2018 07:23
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Ok fair enough, I really don't want to deal with transmission issues. What about the automatics, is it the same unit for a 2.5 and 4.0? I've owned 2 XJ's (a '97 an '99), both 4.0s, one automatic and never had any issues.....I'm assuming Wranglers use the same auto trans?
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Jul 11, 2018 15:59
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They don't. Wranglers use the 32/42/44 re/rh trannies IIRC. they definitely don't use the aw4 from the XJ, sadly. Manual: 4.0: Ba10/5 on 89.0 and earlier YJ, XJ, MJ ax15 on 89.5-99 YJ, XJ, MJ, ZJ, TJ nv3550 on 00-up XJ, TJ 2.5: Ax4 or ax5 on all Auto: 4.0: AW4 on XJ and MJ, also on 93.0 ZJ Random Chrysler autos on YJ, ZJ, TJ, WJ. I know the 42re and 42rle were used some years and models, not sure about others 2.5: AW4 on 87-90 XJ and MJ only. extremely rare. I have only heard of six of these in a decade of Jeep spergin'. Random Chrysler autos on YJ, TJ, ZJ. 44re/rh and 46re were used on 8cyl ZJ. 545rfe and 45rfe on the 8cyl WJ. the 4, 6, and 8 don't share bellhousing patterns so swapping can be anything from easy to impossible.
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Jul 12, 2018 00:00
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mod sassinator posted:Serious question, can a 2.5 even do 50mph on the freeway? Mine topped out at 60 if there was no wind, no joke.
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Jul 12, 2018 01:57
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kastein posted:Transmission info Thanks man, I assumed the 4.0 and 2.5 had the same manuals, and had no clue about the different slushboxes either geez. You learn something new every day  I guess I'm gonna hold out for a 4.0, unless a 2.5 automatic impresses me somehow but I kinda doubt it.
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Jul 12, 2018 03:19
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Godholio posted:Mine topped out at 60 if there was no wind, no joke. I had a 96 2.5l and it would break 65 with the AC off. Definitely didn’t get 20.7 mpg though haha more like 12-15.
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Jul 12, 2018 04:59
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 Just needs a frame! Runs great!
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Jul 15, 2018 23:40
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Applebees Appetizer posted:
That's pretty much every TJ I went to look at $4500 or less. The TJs all looked good outside and were rotted out underneath. One guy told me "it has a little rust on the frame" which translated to "there is a 12-inch-long section under the passenger door that is missing all but the top inch of the frame". The YJs, while older, all had solid frames and bodies in various stages of rot. I picked a little body work (which I enjoy) over frame work.
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Jul 16, 2018 02:16
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YJs do eventually rot out around the transaction crossmember attachment weld nuts and rear shackles. TJs rot... Bad.
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Jul 16, 2018 04:36
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This has been a long time coming - I need to figure out what to do about my A/C compressor. The clutch isn't engaging consistently. If I turn on the A/C, it *might* engage for a few seconds, but then it clicks off again. I've checked the R134a pressure and it's at normal levels. In fact, it hasn't budged for years, since I haven't had working A/C for years! Anything I can try before I think about taking it to a shop? (it's a 99 XJ)
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Jul 16, 2018 22:39
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Pressure doesn't tell you how much is in the system until there is drat near nothing left in there. Why? Vapor pressure of a liquid at a certain temperature is constant no matter how much liquid is present. However, those symptoms sound like one of two things. 1 - you could be low on r134a. Surprise! (Not.) Try jumping the compressor clutch directly from the battery, if it cheerfully kicks in and stays in, it's likely this. Either read motronics AC thread and recharge it yourself, or pay like 150 for a recharge. 2 - the clutch plate may be worn out of spec. If it didn't pass test 1, this is likely the answer, it's a common issue on high mileage Sanden sd709s like the one in XJs. Remove the small nut in the middle of the clutch, take out the tiny shim washer under it, put the nut back on and tighten it. DO NOT do this without performing the test above, you may reduce the clutch airgap too much if it was fine before and you didn't test it.
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Jul 16, 2018 22:52
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kastein posted:Pressure doesn't tell you how much is in the system until there is drat near nothing left in there. Why? Vapor pressure of a liquid at a certain temperature is constant no matter how much liquid is present. Thanks! I found the thread. I suppose I'll look into buying or renting a manifold gauge set, then.
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Jul 17, 2018 00:28
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DizzyBum posted:Thanks! I found the thread. I suppose I'll look into buying or renting a manifold gauge set, then. You can also put any cheap gauge on the low pressure side and see if it drops a ton when the compressor kicks on. If it does, you need more refrigerant.
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Jul 17, 2018 03:38
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Cat Hatter posted:You can also put any cheap gauge on the low pressure side and see if it drops a ton when the compressor kicks on. If it does, you need more refrigerant. Huh? Suction side of a properly charged system should always be considerably lower than the static pressure of a system that hasn't been running in a while.
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Jul 17, 2018 03:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Huh? Suction side of a properly charged system should always be considerably lower than the static pressure of a system that hasn't been running in a while. He likely ment one of those single gauge ones you get on the more expensive cans of refrigerant which only tell you low side pressures.
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Jul 17, 2018 04:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:Huh? Suction side of a properly charged system should always be considerably lower than the static pressure of a system that hasn't been running in a while. It won't drop nearly as much as on a nearly empty system. The non-phone-posting instructions would be to watch the needle drop as the compressor kicks on and if the compressor shuts back off and then the pressure climbs until the compressor engages again, then congratulations on discovering your lack of refrigerant. Bonus points if your gauge is at all accurate and you bother to look up the low pressure cut off switch activation pressure so you can be 100% sure that low refrigerant is the problem instead of 95% sure.
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Jul 17, 2018 04:08
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