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RabidWeasel posted:The harder problems are far more technical like you describe but also require you to have crazy strong hands just to hang on because the holds are all garbage, the easier routes are juggier but fewer holds. Yeah, that could be it. In the 10 or so gyms I have been to, v3-v4 level overhung problems tended to use vertical wall v0 jugs for holds. It's hard enough climbing a ceiling as it is. VVV Awesome, keep it up! I hear the gorge is amazing. pokie fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jul 11, 2018 |
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Jul 11, 2018 16:12
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Joined the bouldering gym here in KY last week and been training with the ladies training group. Currently working on some V1s and a few 2s! I'm coming from 3 years of circus so I already have some base strength, but definitely am in the newbie mindset of trying to figure out technique. Switched over from circus cause I needed something to challenge my lower body and dynamic flexibility. Hopefully can catch a trip to the Gorge with the training group or friends this season.
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Jul 11, 2018 21:09
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If you haven’t played with it yet, climb assist is pretty baller. I wish all guidebooks could do this.
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Jul 12, 2018 05:38
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Managed a few routes in Sherwood Forest in the canyon before rain chased us out. Beautiful granite and tricky, but good. Witch Hunt looked hard as poo poo though - but a potentially doable V10.   
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Jul 13, 2018 05:17
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Holy poo poo TRIPLE POST.  Ran up Young and Rackless again. Forgot my chalk bag so went up chalkless. SPICY.
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Jul 14, 2018 00:48
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Only spicy because you don't climb ropes... And it was 95 degrees today.
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Jul 15, 2018 04:14
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I ended up buying Otaki for my heel hook shoes. I tried Impact, Shaman, and Parrot among other things. These last 3 pairs were extra tight in my size. I went up half a size, which made Impacts too loose but others still too tight. I went down 1.5 sizes in Otaki and they felt just slightly painful, so hopefully they will stretch out nicely. They held up for overhead heel hooks on first day anyway.
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Jul 17, 2018 23:00
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I'm having a really hard time finding people to climb with in Denver. Facebook is trash and I'm still mostly sketched out by going outdoors with randoms for the first time. I guess I need to be less of a goony goon
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Jul 21, 2018 02:10
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Happiness Commando posted:I'm having a really hard time finding people to climb with in Denver. Facebook is trash and I'm still mostly sketched out by going outdoors with randoms for the first time. I guess I need to be less of a goony goon Could you make friends at a local gym first?
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Jul 21, 2018 02:24
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Happiness Commando posted:I'm having a really hard time finding people to climb with in Denver. Facebook is trash and I'm still mostly sketched out by going outdoors with randoms for the first time. I guess I need to be less of a goony goon Mmm it's always good to be cautious when you're life is in someone's hands. If you're network is big enough, it's always nice to have seen them climb in the gym, or have a friend that can vouch for them or something. Maybe try to meet them in a gym and see them lead first? 'Hey dude, want to try an indoor session before we go outdoors to make sure everything is chill???'
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Jul 21, 2018 02:30
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Happiness Commando posted:I'm having a really hard time finding people to climb with in Denver. Facebook is trash and I'm still mostly sketched out by going outdoors with randoms for the first time. I guess I need to be less of a goony goon There are a bunch of Denver climbing goons. Just contact one of them!
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Jul 21, 2018 14:53
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After a few years of no climbing I finally got back into it. Works out for me that the closest gym is bouldering so I don’t have to rely on others to climb with. I was never all that great but I feel my technique coming back and can hopefully send some V3/4s in the next couple weeks.
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Jul 23, 2018 23:59
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Good stuff! Since I began bouldering 3x weekly (up from 1x) I started daydreaming about bouldering on the days I'm not...
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Jul 24, 2018 06:37
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Hi guys! I recently started bouldering and I'm really enjoying it, watching/reading about technique and improving at a rate I'm happy with. I last went Sunday, and I'm experiencing pain in my left forearm, near the base - I can prompt the pain if I hold something heavy up, if I clench my fist or open/close my fingers to their extremes. Also touching the base of the forearm and squeezing can prompt it too. Obviously I'm not going to be climbing if the pain persists (  ) but I'd like to know if there's anything I can do try and avoid this type of injury in the future - not using legs enough, perhaps? I'm fairly strong from a bodyweight-fitness point of view so I tend to brute force some projects, trying to force myself to work slower and focus more on technique.Thanks! DrAlexanderTobacco fucked around with this message at 12:33 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 12:25
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In my experience of climbing injuries (and injury in general), the pain always persists until you work out what's wrong or at least do the right physio by brute force or sheer luck. The best book on climbing injury by miles is http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html You may be able to find it cheaper from a US distributor. Needlessly slapping for holds is normally how newer climbers get injured. Being strong doesn't really help because it means you can get away with bad technique. A drill that helped me loads was to wave my hand a couple inches over every hold on a route/circuit for a second or two as I moved through it. You have to find the correct balanced body position to do this.
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Jul 25, 2018 13:14
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DrAlexanderTobacco posted:Hi guys! That sounds vaguely like tennis elbow, which gets really bad for me every time I get back into climbing after long breaks. Doing pushups helped.
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Jul 25, 2018 14:25
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Thanks both! Noted about taking my time on getting hold of holds. I'm trying to work on technique in general so will slow things down when I end up getting back to it. It doesn't feel like tennis elbow to me, going off online definitions, the pain is pretty much in the circled area:  One movement I can think of which might have caused it would be pushing up on a flat press hold. Not sure if that's the right terminology but have a lovely drawing:  The idea being I'd be pushing up on the hold with my arm, I was doing that a lot on a particular route and felt really weak afterwards. In any case, I'll monitor it and see how it goes. Climbing is fun! 
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Jul 25, 2018 15:10
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If it’s the circled area it’s either sore tendons from being newly activated and stressed or minor tendonitis. Stretch and take it easy for a week and you’ll be ok.
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Jul 25, 2018 15:18
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Get some strong finger resistance bands, available on Amazon. Use those to work your forearm extensors. The second method would be to get a rice bucket, and dip your arm deep into the bucket, and use the resistance created by the weight of the rice pushing down on your arm to bring your arm up and out of the bucket, while having your fingers splayed out. I'll see it I can find q link with pictures later.
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Jul 25, 2018 23:02
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i have recurrent extensor pain that im treating with rice bucket stuff (reasonably well) and it doesn't really match up with the pain hes describing
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Jul 26, 2018 11:06
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Lots of different injuries have really similar physio, which is convenient but then lots of different injuries also have really similar symptoms which can suck when the physio is at odds. I have a lot of pain in my left middle finger a1 pulley which is absolutely not a pulley problem, rather tightness in my left bicep that I can't seem to stretch out. Bodies are weird, man.
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Jul 26, 2018 12:58
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Went bouldering yesterday after a few weeks off, and it's like I've never been before. I'm not good with heights which makes it a bit of a struggle to send anything at the best of times, but yesterday I didn't manage a single thing! Feels bad man.
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Jul 26, 2018 13:34
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Surprise T Rex posted:Went bouldering yesterday after a few weeks off, and it's like I've never been before. Depending on where you are in your climbing life, a few weeks off can either be amazing when you come back or it can be terrible. If you've been going super hard for too long, a few weeks off can let your body recover and you can come back and crush stuff. If you're climbing more casually / one or two days a week then it can go the opposite direction. Sometimes, regardless of time off or not, you just have a poo poo day and you fall off everything. Don't sweat it, get back on the wall, it all comes back pretty fast.
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Jul 26, 2018 13:45
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jiggerypokery posted:Lots of different injuries have really similar physio, which is convenient but then lots of different injuries also have really similar symptoms which can suck when the physio is at odds. I have a lot of pain in my left middle finger a1 pulley which is absolutely not a pulley problem, rather tightness in my left bicep that I can't seem to stretch out. Yep! My neck pain usually stems from tight pecs. Do not forget to stretch after every session, including forearms and also a weekly deep session. Also if you don't know a good sports massage therapist find you one ASAP. A hour session can make a huge difference.
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Jul 26, 2018 16:56
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So I'm just getting in to the 5.8 range at my gym, and its the land of hard horizontal pulls. Anybody have any good tips for practicing for those or just the standard advice of climb more?
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Jul 30, 2018 04:30
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Nothing about 5.8 should be all that hard in a gym. Could you post a photo of a route?
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Jul 31, 2018 22:50
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I'll try and get a pic of the one that wraps around a corner with a hard pull on a sloper marked 5.8 According to the guy I climb with our gym is super underrated on almost all the routes, but I have nothing to compare to.
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Aug 1, 2018 13:11
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Yeah at that level there shouldn't be anything you can't overcome with better body positioning and leverage of feet, especially if it's underrated.
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Aug 1, 2018 15:16
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Checking in to say I've been bouldering a few times since my left forearm tendon issue cleared up, absolutely loving it! Current challenges: - Thinking about footwork as much as possible - Getting past freezing up if you get stuck relatively high up
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Aug 3, 2018 10:48
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Yeah the heights and freezing up is a huge thing for me too. (Palms literally sweating thinking about it right now... Which is lovely when you're on the wall). I'm confident as hell for the first 3-4 moves of every route, but as soon as I'm about 5 feet off the ground I lose it entirely. I managed 5 sends this week though instead of the 0 last week, so definite improvement!
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Aug 3, 2018 11:17
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Nice! So much of climbing is mental, I think that's why its so rewarding when you manage to get it right. Hopefully in time you can find ways to get past the fear, don't expect it to go away suddenly though. I think climbing outside helps too, because it makes the gym much less daunting, and as you get more comfortable being higher up, that feeds back to increase your mental threshold for climbing outside.
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Aug 3, 2018 13:36
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What's a send? Completed route?
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Aug 3, 2018 13:37
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Unsinkabear posted:What's a send? Completed route? Completed route, from the ground to a controlled finish, without any falls or takes.
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Aug 3, 2018 13:51
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As far as I know, yeah. Ascend = send... I think? That's how I used it at least  I might be 500% wrong. I've been climbing for no time at all.
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Aug 3, 2018 13:51
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The way I'm getting over it is to try and remember that, if I've done everything right up until the point I get stuck, I should be in a relatively stable/balanced position with no danger of falling off. It's just a primal fear stirring, because the point where I get stuck on where to go is where I might look down, notice height etc. - but remembering that I can shift position if required, reverse/downclimb a little and try again, is making it easier.
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Aug 3, 2018 13:57
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armorer posted:Completed route, from the ground to a controlled finish, without any falls or takes. I thought that was called flashing?
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Aug 3, 2018 14:23
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Unsinkabear posted:I thought that was called flashing? Flashing a route it getting a send on your first attempt at the route, if you had some prior knowledge of what the moves on the route were (beta). On sighting a route is getting a send on your first attempt at the route without any prior knowledge. Red pointing is getting a send on a route after one or more attempts. Edit: To the best of my knowledge there is no specific term for completing a route if there were takes/falls involved. You'll hear someone say something like "I finished it, but it wasn't clean" or sometimes in the context of lead climbing you'll hear something like "I can put that route up, but not send it". In that case "put it up" effectively means that they can complete the route in order to set a top rope for further attempts, but they can't lead it from the ground up cleanly. armorer fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Aug 3, 2018 |
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Aug 3, 2018 14:32
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E: ^DamnitUnsinkabear posted:I thought that was called flashing? Send - Completing a route cleanly after any number of attempts Flash - Completing a route cleanly on your first attempt Onsight - Completing a route cleanly on your first attempt with no prior knowledge of the route (not seeing anyone else climbing it or receiving beta)
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Aug 3, 2018 14:34
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armorer posted:Flashing a route it getting a send on your first attempt at the route, if you had some prior knowledge of what the moves on the route were (beta). My favorite is "I can totally bolt to bolt that route"! I also like "I had to crawl up that one".
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Aug 3, 2018 23:51
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armorer posted:To the best of my knowledge there is no specific term for completing a route if there were takes/falls involved. Doggin’ it
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Aug 4, 2018 18:10
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