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I thought the idea was Priuses are designed to be used as taxis which regularly get rammed into curbs. Replacing hubcaps is cheaper than replacing or repairing a whole alloy wheel.
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Aug 1, 2018 20:16
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I'm going with the "makes them more expensive look." If you ever watch "Price is Right" the easiest way to judge a car's value if you are unfamiliar with them all (and of course this for econbox type territory) is to look at the wheels. Amazing how moving from 15" to 17" on the same model will raise the price $5-8K.
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Aug 1, 2018 20:22
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C-Bangin' it 
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Took the brakes off and sent them to England for a much needed refurbishment:
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Aug 1, 2018 23:25
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afen posted:Took the brakes off and sent them to England for a much needed refurbishment: I thought we were living in the darkest timeline but you must be from the one that lost WW2. German brakes to England?
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Aug 1, 2018 23:59
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Yeah, that is also where they refurbish Prius hubcaps.
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Aug 2, 2018 02:48
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afen posted:Took the brakes off and sent them to England for a much needed refurbishment: Why England?
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Aug 2, 2018 02:49
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Loanarn posted:I thought we were living in the darkest timeline but you must be from the one that lost WW2. German brakes to England? I think those brakes are Italian, but axis anyway.
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Aug 2, 2018 05:44
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ThirstyBuck posted:Why England? Because there's always a guy in a shed that specializes in one thing or the other, haven't you watched Wheeler Dealers? I could not find anyone in Norway to do this kind of job, and I can't be arsed to send the calipers around to different shops for shot blasting, painting and overhauling.
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Aug 2, 2018 15:15
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The 2005 Saab 9-3 was hesitating under heavy throttle when at moderate revs (2-3,000 rpm). I had just replaced the plugs around 6,000 miles ago, so thought it might be the ignition coils. I had previous replaced one due to a misfire code on cylinder 2 so I figured the rest might be going as well. New coils arrived and after an Amazon seller sent me the wrong replacement spark plugs (as well as 1 too few) I now have them replace. Everything is now good, no more hesitation, more power across the band and much, much smoother. Here are the 6,000 mile old plugs I pulled out:  These were originally gapped to 0.044" but it looks like the worst is over 0.0625" 
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Aug 2, 2018 17:22
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afen posted:Because there's always a guy in a shed that specializes in one thing or the other, haven't you watched Wheeler Dealers? I could not find anyone in Norway to do this kind of job, and I can't be arsed to send the calipers around to different shops for shot blasting, painting and overhauling. Yeah, good point. Wasn't that where someone could rebuild the TPS sensor in their garage on a Maserati? Drilling out of the epoxy, etc.
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Aug 2, 2018 17:31
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Colostomy Bag posted:I'm going with the "makes them more expensive look." As an aside (in case you're ever on The Price is Right) it's the car as described that is important, not the car you physically see. For example you will see the same red Chevy Cruze roll out for 2-3 weeks worth of shows, but the description in the copy will denote the trim level and options you're playing for/with. It's not always (rarely) the exact car you see on the stage.
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Aug 2, 2018 22:27
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I put new shocks and springs on my 2008 300C. What a clusterfuck. First, I didn't have the right size wrench for the spring compressors I bought. I went and bought a set of wrenches, since it's almost as cheap to buy a set as it is to buy a single wrench. The swaybar links did not want to cooperate. At one point, I thought I was going to have to heat them or just cut them off and replace them. Eventually with enough pentrating oil and grunt, I got them off. I did however find that when I bought my set of deep well impact sockets, they're 12 piont, not 6 point. WHO MAKES 12 POINT IMPACT SOCKETS. THAT DEFEATS THE PURPOSE. I went back to the store and bought new impact sockets. I found that the compressors I bought ran the nut right up against the spring, making it hard to turn the nuts. I made spacers for each one, so that it moved the nut away from the spring coil and that made it a bit easier. I finally got the springs/shocks off the front, assembled, and installed. I turned the car around in the garage to make it a little easier to work on, thinking the back would be a breeze. Boy, was I wrong. I don't know why, but when they put the control arms on, they put the bolts going to the back. Well, the exhaust goes and turns right behind them. If you put them going to the front, you could get them out quite easy. I had to drop the exhaust to get the bolts out of the control arms. Then it was a triple threat wrestling match between me, the jack, and the control arm. I'm still not sure who won. I finally got the bolts back in them. It took me about 8 hours total, but nothing went right. I finally got if off the jackstands and took it for a test drive. It was clunking something fierce in the back. Disgusted, I drove it back home and parked it in the driveway. I cleaned up all the tools, and found that somehow my 15mm impact socket had disappeared into the nether. I got everything cleaned up, put my other car back in the garage, and locked up. When I was walking to the house, I noticed a light near the 300. I walked over and found that I left a magnetic work light jammed up in the rear end. If I'm lucky (I'm not), that's the clunking I was hearing. To top it all off, when I got back in the house, I found out my well pump quit working. At 11pm. So now I have to mess with that in the morning. Mama said there'd be days like this.
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Aug 4, 2018 03:47
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The rear suspension on those is most likely installed as the entire subframe, so no thought whatsoever was put into where bolts would go after the fact. The 15mm socket is in the groove between the driveway and the grass, and the clunking is a loose or unattached sway bar endlink. All of this is just wild guessing, but guided by experience.
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Aug 4, 2018 04:00
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Darchangel posted:The rear suspension on those is most likely installed as the entire subframe, so no thought whatsoever was put into where bolts would go after the fact. I didn't take the swaybar links loose on the back, but it has to be something. After I get running water back tomorrow, I'll jack it back up and look at it.
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Aug 4, 2018 04:11
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So, just a normal day when we decide to do anything, or more exact, throw tools and parts at a car  They don't make them easy to work on, and tools getting shittier (even if buying a good brand, still hard to find good ones without trial and error)
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Aug 4, 2018 15:46
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Tinkered again with the 99 Replaced brake line for rear right. Then looked into why the engine runs so rough.  There may be issue with the ignition coil, the + terminal was craked from the base and danging from the wire, it broke off when i removed the terminals. The cap terminals were really worn so i changed them and the rotor.  Now its powered with Biltema performance coil! Cap and rotor is orginal Bosch.
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Aug 4, 2018 20:22
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I got my well pump to the house fixed. In driving to and from the hardware store, I isolated the suspension noise to the driver's side for sure. On further listening, it's less of a clunk and more of a rattle. It sounds like something is loose and rattling around, but I can't find anything. I jacked it back up, took the shock loose and dropped the control arm. I took the spring out and made sure the spring seated in the rubber bushings properly. I reinstalled the control arm and shock and made sure everything was tight. I can't figure out what is making noise. I did find my 15mm socket though.
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Aug 4, 2018 21:56
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Worn sway bar bushings or end links? When I upgraded my shocks I also replaced my sway bushings and end links and all front end noise vanished.
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Aug 4, 2018 22:09
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Verman posted:Worn sway bar bushings or end links? When I upgraded my shocks I also replaced my sway bushings and end links and all front end noise vanished. I didn't have it before, it's why I'm dubious that they're the problem. It's only on the driver's side rear. Edit: after pulling it off a third time, I noticed that the passenger side was was compressed closer at the top than at the bottom. The driver's side was opposite. On the factory springs, one end had closer coils and a small radius on one end. The aftermarket ones looked the same on both ends. I guess I got one "upside down". I flipped the driver's side, and the sound is gone. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Aug 4, 2018 |
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Aug 4, 2018 22:18
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I dropped it off somewhere and got the windows tinted. No, I don't have pictures. Maximum 
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Aug 5, 2018 02:39
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Captain Kosmos posted:There may be issue with the ignition coil, the + terminal was craked from the base and danging from the wire, it broke off when i removed the terminals. Yeah that reddish-orangeish-brownish Bosch ignition system plastic is kind of poo poo. I am on my third cap&rotor set from having to mess about with the BMW so much- the set I've got now off a junkyard Volvo 144 (it's black but no idea who actually made it) seems to be a little more tolerant of my hamfisting however (I'm sure your new cap and rotor will be fine tho, since you likely won't have it on and off a hundred times).
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Aug 5, 2018 03:57
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NumbersMatching320 posted:Yeah that reddish-orangeish-brownish Bosch ignition system plastic is kind of poo poo. I am on my third cap&rotor set from having to mess about with the BMW so much- the set I've got now off a junkyard Volvo 144 (it's black but no idea who actually made it) seems to be a little more tolerant of my hamfisting however (I'm sure your new cap and rotor will be fine tho, since you likely won't have it on and off a hundred times). I don't know if the coil is Bosch, it didn't have Bosch logo on it. It had Bosch look and the serial number was similar that Bosch uses, but I didn't find coil with same number. Probably it is Bosch but knowing the PO i could be cheap knock off made to look like Bosch. Going to change the Biltema coil to Bosch blue or some performance coil at some point, found out it does not have ignition points, it has newer 84+ 900 electric distributor. Which is nice, because i am going to try get it running with E85. Using orginal carb/s 
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Aug 5, 2018 12:05
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Speaking of PO fuckery: Installs Koni dampeners but tightens the top bolts so loving hard it's impossible to get the top mounts off, meaning a simple top mount swap now has to go to the mechanic. Hopefully I can get an alignment a bit cheaper when I get it done though. Also installs new brake pads but cuts the brake wear sensor cable (don't really care about this one, but still).
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Aug 5, 2018 19:13
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Fo3 posted:So, just a normal day when we decide to do anything, or more exact, throw tools and parts at a car I've been known to throw tools, but I try not to throw them at the car. Usually. Larrymer posted:I dropped it off somewhere and got the windows tinted. No, I don't have pictures. Maximum I need to do that on the Kia, with the added complexity of removing the old stuff. The tint that the dealer applied 10 years ago is almost faded to no tint at all, and the rear is bubbling over the defroster grid. The nice, dark tin in my Crown Vic helps keep it a lot cooler during TX summers. The Kia's not so much. This weekend I tightened the AC belt on my AE86 after it stretched from use for it's inaugural day (AC still working!), and adjusted the secondary throttle plate stop on the Weber 2-barrely the previous owner installed. It was closing too much and wedging/sticking a bit so the transition to the secondaries tended to be a bit abrupt as I had to stomp a little bit to get it to open. It's got a little stop screw, so a turn or so and the secondary throttle plate down't wedge against the side of the bore. Turned the primary idle stop down a bit to compensate. Pulled the power steering box and column out of my parts '84 RX-7 GSL-SE to see what is different and needs adjustment ot fit to my '79 RX-7.
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Aug 6, 2018 21:13
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Couple of things to a couple of rides. The Subertha kept blowing headlights so on Saturday I pulled the headlight assembly off to see what was up and about a cup of water came out. The old lenses were incredibly foggy so some new ones were installed today. Of course since it’s a 23 year old GMC with god knows how many PO’s it was a clusterfuck to get it all apart and back together again.   Then, the BMW got some new wheels and summer tires put on because the stock wheels will be for winter duty and I greatly dislike all-season tires. Konig Hypergrams in 17x8 and Pirelli PZero Nero GT in the stock 225/45/17. Each wheel is about 7lb lighter than the stock in the same size.   
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Aug 8, 2018 19:51
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Couple of things to a couple of rides. When I went from stock to Apex wheels on my 328 with non runflats, it made a huge difference in handling and driveability. It'd probably be less noticeable on a 335, but putting those summers on was such a relief. I think I also dropped a similar 7lb per corner. Looks good!
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Aug 8, 2018 20:19
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This was my car as I got it March 2017 In the meantime, nearly 50% of the roof had peeled away, where I circled it up there in mspaint. More and more paint ripped away from the sides of the car, from the "body line" upwards. Today, on a lark, I stopped by the hardware store and bought a quart of white gloss rustoleum, some paint thinner, and a foam roller brush. On the way home, I chipped as much paint off as I could with a pressure washer at one of those pay 'n spray DIY car wash booths. It removed probably, no joke, a square meter of paint, especially from the bottom corners around the rear window, the roof, and the trunklid. I then masked off and painted the doors from the bodyline up, the C pillars, and some other bits, in about four thin coats. With a little paint thinner mixed in, the coats are thinner, but you can just work clockwise around the car and by the time you make it back around the previous coat is already dry.    Like, it couldn't have made it worse, and only took about an hour total, including masking. Better than bighuge grey patches that get rusty when it rains. The stupid reflective tape is impossible to remove, and it's there because this car spent the last year or two of its life as a prop car on the state trooper / dps training range. Based on the evidence, someone shot out one or both front doors, and I'm betting that's when the tape was applied. The car was full of both unfired bullets (.38 special, .556, and .40 S&W) and casings, and the doors don't match the rest of the car and none of the door wiring was hooked up when I got it at auction. Some casings were even blocking the wiper motor drain flap, and the first rain it pooled and I had to clean and re-solder the motor control board. E: I also know that asking a cellphone camera to distinguish between White and White is a task, but you can see the demarcation. On the rear doors I went just below the handle, too, instead of along the bodyline as the police decals they ripped off had taken some paint. Whatever 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Aug 8, 2018 |
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Aug 8, 2018 20:36
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I installed a hitch on the wife's car. Pretty easy job, had to use a step drill to enlarge some holes in the frame rails for the bolts, then annoy the wife by asking her to thread on the nuts while I held it up to the car. The only exciting part was hitting my head on my new beefy toolbox drawer that I left open when crawling back out from underneath.  car_mechanics.jpg 
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Aug 9, 2018 12:24
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Bought it (actually was like two days ago) 2007 Camry LE, 153k miles, 4cyl, auto. I wanted something bulletproof and economical that wasn’t a penalty box. After driving a Subaru Forester with 230-330k miles on it for the last 7 years this car is...just incredible. Maintenance records going back to the day it was purchased new, from the same dealer I bought it from after the original owner traded it in on another Camry.    RIP in piss, Subaru. You cost me entirely too much pain and money for what you were.
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Aug 9, 2018 14:01
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Having driven neither very much, I would have guessed that a Camry was more of a penalty box than a Forester.
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Aug 9, 2018 14:03
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angryrobots posted:Having driven neither very much, I would have guessed that a Camry was more of a penalty box than a Forester. loving lol. Are you high Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Aug 9, 2018 |
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Aug 9, 2018 14:05
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Camrys may be boring, but they’re not actively hostile.
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Aug 9, 2018 15:40
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Darchangel posted:Camrys may be boring, but they’re not actively hostile. How do they get their elusive Camry bumps? Mating rituals?
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Aug 9, 2018 15:44
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Darchangel posted:Camrys may be boring, but they’re not actively hostile. An accurate description. Now this debate just depends on what your definition of penalty box is. At least the Camry won't need to much upkeep.
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Aug 9, 2018 15:53
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Imperador do Brasil posted:The Subertha kept blowing headlights so on Saturday I pulled the headlight assembly off to see what was up and about a cup of water came out. The old lenses were incredibly foggy so some new ones were installed today. Of course since it’s a 23 year old GMC with god knows how many PO’s it was a clusterfuck to get it all apart and back together again. When I had my 3rd-gen Prelude the taillights had a similar problem - both died not long after I bought it. When I pulled the assembly to swap the bulbs, water poured out - and I looked at the other side and could see the puddle in the light. Rather than dig into the weathersealing on a (at the time) 21-year-old Honda with visible rust issues, I drilled small holes in the lower part of the taillight assemblies so the water that was getting in had a place to exit. In the two subsequent years before I got rid of the car, I never had to change another taillight bulb.
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Aug 9, 2018 15:55
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ExecuDork posted:
Heh, GF had an 87? Civic at the time. Those drat things would collect and condense water in them like nothing else. When I replaced one I noticed they did a revision that had a bunch of rubber tubing to try to solve it.
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Aug 9, 2018 16:02
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ExecuDork posted:That's quite the difference! Nice! I thought about a drain hole but the old ones were so foggy...I hope these last another year at least since we are taking Subertha on a year-by-year basis at this point. The $70 for the assemblies will be worth it just to be able to see at night the two days a month we drive it. Alarbus posted:When I went from stock to Apex wheels on my 328 with non runflats, it made a huge difference in handling and driveability. It'd probably be less noticeable on a 335, but putting those summers on was such a relief. I think I also dropped a similar 7lb per corner. Looks good! Yeah this is a 328 xDrive so any weight loss at the corners is a bonus. It definitely feels a little smoother now.
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Aug 9, 2018 21:39
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That's a massive improvement for an hour's work. Hit the wheels with some fresh paint next...or buy some Mustang takeoffs 
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Aug 9, 2018 22:28
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If I do it's just gonna be gloss black. Two reasons for it: don't have to mask nearly as much, and Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is both beautiful and durable as poo poo when it comes to painting over sunbaked, poorly-prepared surfaces
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Aug 10, 2018 06:11
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Booped a full size pickup that made a left turn from a right turn lane, took a little paint off my bumper. Don't make left turns from right turn lanes, people!  Not really worth making a claim on for my car (and I REALLY don't need another claim on my history anyway), I already took the paint and rubber transfer off with WD40 and a rag. Bumper was already kinda rough, I'll probably just throw a bra on it.Truck, OTOH, is gonna need a little love. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Aug 10, 2018 |
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Aug 10, 2018 07:22
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