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armorer posted:To the best of my knowledge there is no specific term for completing a route if there were takes/falls involved. and in this context a "take" is what? like a redo on a grip or foothold if you slip, or is it backing up to try a different angle of attack?
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Aug 4, 2018 20:00
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A take is when you have the belayer pull the type taunt so you can rest or plan your approach. They take in the slack.
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Aug 4, 2018 21:20
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How do I get the foot smell out of my climbing shoes? I've been putting dryer sheets in my shoes after I climb to take the moisture out more quickly but they're getting pretty bad lately.
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Aug 5, 2018 14:08
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Lysol spray helps, and I haven't noticed it affecting the shoes aside from smell. It's what gyms use on the rental shoes.
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Aug 5, 2018 15:11
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Lysol spray to remove the smell, and desiccant bags/boot bananas in the shoes before and after climbing to prevent it in the future.
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Aug 5, 2018 15:31
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Once I got into the habit of aways clipping my shoes to the outside of my bag after climbing instead of putting them in it I stopped getting any smells. I had good luck with the bamboo charcoal bags before that, though: http://mosonatural.com/Minimoso
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Aug 5, 2018 17:18
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http://www.drypointe.com/
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Aug 5, 2018 18:24
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I just got punted off a hard 12 today. I couldn't even pull/see the moves... it was humbling. Usually I can get on 12a/b and figure it out and such but man this thing was a beast. Time to pick myself back up off the mat...
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Aug 6, 2018 00:52
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Doggin’ it Sort of, but hang dogging dogging doesn't necessarily mean you completed it, just that you took your drat good time and hung on the rope a lot.
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Aug 6, 2018 04:20
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It's definitely implied you got to the top somehow if you dogged it, as opposed to if you bailed.
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Aug 9, 2018 11:37
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jiggerypokery posted:It's definitely implied you got to the top somehow if you dogged it, as opposed to if you bailed. Not in the circles I climb with. If someone says they were hang dogging such and such a route, there is no implication there that they actually completed it. Edit: And if it did imply that, it would also imply that you had a hell of a time on it. I've often heard (and used) the term "one hung it" for a near send with a single fall. Something like "I've one hung that route 3 times now l, but still can't stitch it together past the crux". armorer fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Aug 9, 2018 |
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Aug 9, 2018 13:07
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armorer posted:"I've one hung that route 3 times now l, but still can't stitch it together past the crux". COME ON. At this point you're just going out of your way to not use plain english. 
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Aug 9, 2018 14:08
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Like "I sent it" has any grounding in standard english? At best it is a lazy shortening of "I successfully ascended it". It all sounds like gibberish to a non climber.
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Aug 9, 2018 14:15
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Totally. Every hobby community has its slang, that's natural and I get it. But at a certain point it starts to feel like jargon for jargon's sake, and that can make even the most wonderful and welcoming community off-putting and insidery. If I need to learn a second language before I can start participating socially and getting tips on technique, that's an annoying barrier to entry.
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Aug 9, 2018 15:52
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Unsinkabear posted:COME ON. At this point you're just going out of your way to not use plain english. Yeah the jargon is one of the things that always frustrated me when I was starting out. Some of it makes sense, the easiest way to communicate with someone on the wall about next moves is the jargon. . . But after the years have gone by, I've fallen deep into the machine of using it for all parts of climbing, which is really not helpful around new climbers. I've become the enemy 
Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Aug 9, 2018 |
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Aug 9, 2018 15:58
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E: double post
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Aug 9, 2018 15:59
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Jargon matters to explain things correctly in most industries without blabbing on for days. Sorry that you have to learn climbing jargon.
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Aug 9, 2018 18:47
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Ubiquitus posted:Yeah the jargon is one of the things that always frustrated me when I was starting out. It's a slippery slope.  I'll see my way out. I jammed my finger quite hard playing a ball sport. It's my pinky on my left hand. I figure I'd have some serious trouble, but apparently it hasn't really affected me at all. From climbing the day of the incident to 3 weeks later, the finger still feels swollen, but my grip isn't suffering. Tickle me surprised. That said, I deffo lost some range of motion on that pinky in comparison to my right one.  Maybe it'll return in time. It's not broken, by any means, and I'm able to pull/push with it (though pulling isn't super pleasant).
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Aug 9, 2018 21:34
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spwrozek posted:Jargon matters to explain things correctly in most industries without blabbing on for days. Sorry that you have to learn climbing jargon. Reading comprehension is hard. Try again; the words were pretty simple but its seems you didn't understand what was written.
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Aug 9, 2018 21:40
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Cannon_Fodder posted:It's a slippery slope.  Hope your finger bounces back! Ubiquitus posted:Reading comprehension is hard. Try again; the words were pretty simple but its seems you didn't understand what was written. But like, nuance is hard, man.
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Aug 9, 2018 22:02
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Ubiquitus posted:Reading comprehension is hard. Try again; the words were pretty simple but its seems you didn't understand what was written. I don't think he was replying to you.
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Aug 10, 2018 02:19
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He wasn't, but the reply stands either way. Both of us already made it clear that we understand some jargon is necessary and good. It was literally the second sentence of my post 
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Aug 10, 2018 02:33
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sent is pretty drat easy to figure out. flashed is a bit weird. i dont understand the rest and i dont care to
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Aug 10, 2018 03:28
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Maybe just climb and use whatever words you want because climbing is fun.
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Aug 10, 2018 04:56
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I still say stop complaining. I was outside climbing rock after work. Yay for me.
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Aug 10, 2018 05:35
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From my limited indoor bouldering experience: Flash: Finished the problem first try Send/Sent: Was able to finish the problem start-to-finish, regardless attempts Project: something that is giving you trouble. Something you are determined to overcome and will work on. The other poo poo is move or hold names. Oh, and Pump/pumpy: Something that requires more strength-based moves and leaves you feeling like you really had to work to complete it. Example: something with campusing or big moves. Then again, da gently caress do I know? I like learning so I'm not complaining. I'm also not shy in asking "what does that mean?"
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Aug 10, 2018 15:21
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A pumpy route is specifically something that makes your forearms pumped. Which in turn is that feeling of muscle fatigue joined with them being swollen full of blood (pumped) from exertion. It could be a route with big moves but it is typically something that requires sustained moves at the grade without rest. Often routes with a lot of slopers, or overhung jug hauls will end up being pumpy. If you're falling off a route because tour forearms can't continue and your hands just start to open up, you're pumped. A "flash pump" is when you get really pumped on a route because you failed to warm up properly before getting on it. It's basically a bad pump feeling that sticks around for a while, and may even ruin your session. So always warm up!
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Aug 10, 2018 15:43
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crazycello posted:Maybe just climb and use whatever words you want because climbing is fun.
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Aug 10, 2018 15:44
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armorer posted:A pumpy route is specifically something that makes your forearms pumped. Which in turn is that feeling of muscle fatigue joined with them being swollen full of blood (pumped) from exertion. It could be a route with big moves but it is typically something that requires sustained moves at the grade without rest. Often routes with a lot of slopers, or overhung jug hauls will end up being pumpy. Thanks for the clarification! Speaking of pumped, man am I excited I don't have to go into work today. Driving 2 hours a day cuts into my climbing time.
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Aug 10, 2018 15:45
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What bouldering Youtube channels do you all follow? I really like Rockentry for his very clear analysis of problems which I think really has helped me with technique. Bouldering Bobat on the other hand is hardly technical but absolutely hilarious and filmed at my gym.
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Aug 10, 2018 22:53
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I like Mani the Monkey. There's a lot of narcissism to deal with, but the technical videos are the best I've found. Rockentry is okay but he's just not that great of a climber.
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Aug 10, 2018 23:14
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I like Eric Karlsson Bouldering because it's a good mix of technical talk and funny banter. Also I'm super jealous of their gym. I also watch Magnus Mitbo from time to time. I don't know if it will improve your climbing, but Jesus: the guy is a loving specimen man and watching some of his training is mesmerizing.
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Aug 11, 2018 01:15
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Well, just did my first comp today. I climbed like crap because I think I was too wound up about "oh my God gotta do well for the comp" but it was super fun. Got like 5 new projects at the gym now. Also got a free shirt and a bag, totally worth it.
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Aug 12, 2018 00:44
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Well done! My only reason to venture near a comp round here is because they all seem to put on pizza and beer  How do you all tend to deal with calluses starting to tear off? (Not quite a flapper) My wall advised sanding down followed by hand cream, and tape (for when climbing).
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Aug 12, 2018 16:11
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Not being paranoid while rappelling down a rockwall outdoors has been a bit of a psychological obstacle for me. Absolute trust in a system of friction devices, a harness, rope and an anchor is so different from trusting your own hands and feet! Is anyone aware of the failure rate in harnesses and how soon to buy a new one?  Gear failure, not the anchor system (tying rope around a large boulder or tree eliminates feelings of insecurity) is my greatest fear on rappell, as that to me is hard to predict. Product quality and death is separated by a thin red line, so says my worried self.
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Aug 12, 2018 20:06
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jet_dee posted:Well done! My only reason to venture near a comp round here is because they all seem to put on pizza and beer Coarse sanding block Fine sanding block Aquaphor
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Aug 12, 2018 21:04
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sweek0 posted:What bouldering Youtube channels do you all follow? International Federation of Sport Climbing, but I guess that's a lazy answer 
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Aug 12, 2018 21:31
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Not being paranoid while rappelling down a rockwall outdoors has been a bit of a psychological obstacle for me. Absolute trust in a system of friction devices, a harness, rope and an anchor is so different from trusting your own hands and feet! I've not heard of a pattern of gear failure since the spate of deaths in the 80s caused by crampons which fell to bits at critical moments. Occasionally there are product recalls on gear, but I can only ever remember it being things (cams, mainly) that you'd back up if they were critical. Nowadays there's always a human element of incorrect usage when failures happen. For harnesses, replace them when there's obvious wear, especially check the belay loop and the parts where the belay loop attaches to the waist and leg loops. Manufacturers usually put a five year lifespan on them too.
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Aug 12, 2018 22:37
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Not being paranoid while rappelling down a rockwall outdoors has been a bit of a psychological obstacle for me. Absolute trust in a system of friction devices, a harness, rope and an anchor is so different from trusting your own hands and feet! It's pretty much impossible for your harness to fail under the low dynamic load during a rappel. If your willing to climb with a harness, and thus potentially take a fall on it, you shouldn't be worried about rappelling with it.
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Aug 12, 2018 22:58
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Be paranoid, but not in the gear. Generally the gear isn't the issue when rappelling, it's that people make mistakes because they're exhausted and dehydrated and rushed due to darkness.
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Aug 12, 2018 23:17
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