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asur posted:It's pretty much impossible for your harness to fail under the low dynamic load during a rappel. If your willing to climb with a harness, and thus potentially take a fall on it, you shouldn't be worried about rappelling with it. There was a reported incident of a climber's belay loop failing but it was pretty visibly damaged. A harness's tie-in points should be secure since they're somewhat redundant (your harness has two halves anyway, leg loops and the waist loop), but the belay loop should be kept freely spinning for it to evenly wear (aka nothing tied to it long term).
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Aug 12, 2018 23:20
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You may want to research autoblocks for rappelling too, e.g. prussik or kleimheist. Not always necessary, but good to be aware of and have a sense for how/when/why to use one
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Aug 13, 2018 19:14
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thank you all for the advice. Routine gear inspections & using a prusik are things I'm going to do. A plentiful source of caffeine won't hurt either. another tip would be to read rappelling news articles only in moderation... https://www.jhnewsandguide.com/news/cops_courts/article_9e3e9091-9920-5179-a6a9-5e7a9f7694de.html - Grand Teton rappelling death https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2018/06/03/616544264/2-climbers-fall-to-their-deaths-from-el-capitan-in-yosemite - Yosemite rappelling death and promise yourself not to end up in situations like this: https://deadspin.com/stuck-ice-climber-saves-his-rear end-with-death-defying-rapp-1823583891 - oh poo poo
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Aug 14, 2018 01:25
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My girlfriend got her first day out at lumpy ridge on Sunday. She is starting to trust gear more and more. Not sure she would like to role up to a hanging gear belay but good belay ledges she is cool. This was a fun 3 pitch route. Tricky chimney and stem climbing with good gear. On the 190' pitch I only put 12 pieces in, not sure if that is good or bad... Pulling out of the last crack and into a bit of slab to the top.  Last move before the top.  Me enjoying the view of Estes/Rocky Mountain National Park/Longs Peak. It was a great day out. 
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Aug 14, 2018 04:47
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spwrozek posted:Me enjoying the view of Estes/Rocky Mountain National Park/Longs Peak. It was a great day out. Have you ever done Edge of Time at Estes? Do you have one of those crazy dramatic photos?
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Aug 14, 2018 05:16
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Suicide Watch posted:Have you ever done Edge of Time at Estes? Do you have one of those crazy dramatic photos? After I put it up I belayed like 6 people on it. The route is really not that good but it was on the guidebook.... Here I am waiting for the next person to belay...  I don't think I have a photo of me leading it. I would not climb it a second time.
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Aug 14, 2018 05:35
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:and promise yourself not to end up in situations like this:  aaaaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
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Aug 14, 2018 07:38
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:and promise yourself not to end up in situations like this:
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Aug 14, 2018 12:50
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How does someone end up in that situation?!
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Aug 14, 2018 14:13
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The guy was free solo mixed climbing and got himself in a really bad spot. It's not something that accidentally happens to you while responsibly climbing with a partner or anything.
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Aug 14, 2018 14:32
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No that was a top roping 'learn to climb outside' course gone wrong.
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Aug 14, 2018 17:13
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Seriously though, of the 3 articles posted, only one of those scenarios is even REMOTELY likely to happen (the first one), and it is trivially avoided with basic rappelling redundancy checks (Don't unclip your direct tie in until you've confirmed your rappel is properly set up both visually and by weighting it!) There's no reason to freak out someone who has already expressed discomfort about rappelling.
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Aug 14, 2018 18:17
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I went indoor bouldering yesterday and got into the zone. I took a friend who was really new and was giving him pointers. I then realized I could start listening to my own advice and sent a couple problems that were troubling me. Trying to coach a friend through it was fun and educational for both of us. What I shouldn't have done was come back for a second session (around 3 hours of climbing) on the same day. My hands are hamburger meat right now. 
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Aug 14, 2018 19:51
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What's the opinion on taping fingers. My friend who's been climbing for years says to get some calluses on the go, but I feel like the flapper is inevitable. This was never a problem at my old gym but my new one seems to have built their holds out of sandpaper.
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Aug 14, 2018 20:40
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Incoming Chinchilla posted:What's the opinion on taping fingers. My friend who's been climbing for years says to get some calluses on the go, but I feel like the flapper is inevitable. Tape if you need to because of an injury, but outside of crack climbing I don't think there's any need to tape all the time just to climb. Use climb on or whatever salve, your hands will harden up. I hate climbing in tape personally so unless it's actively bleeding I probably won't tape it.
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Aug 14, 2018 20:51
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Incoming Chinchilla posted:What's the opinion on taping fingers. My friend who's been climbing for years says to get some calluses on the go, but I feel like the flapper is inevitable. Similarly, I only get them when doing really dynamic stuff on juggy freshly set routes. It seems to be the body swing after latching a hold that causes them, usually after multiple attempts. You can usually catch them forming - first the callus separates underneath and looks a bit like a blister. If you don't stop then or tape over it, it breaks through the surface and tears open into a big kermit's face flapper.
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Aug 14, 2018 22:36
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Update: still been climbing regularly. Steadily getting better, but I slightly fractured my ankle on the 4th of July weekend bouldering. All healed up and started climbing again last weekend, and today I passed the crux of a 5.11a for the first time! I hadn't been able to do this one prior to the injury, too. Fell off the VERY last move and was too pumped to continue attempts but I feel really great about it!! 5.12 someday is the goal for now. 
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Aug 15, 2018 02:56
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Endjinneer posted:Similarly, I only get them when doing really dynamic stuff on juggy freshly set routes. It seems to be the body swing after latching a hold that causes them, usually after multiple attempts. You can usually catch them forming - first the callus separates underneath and looks a bit like a blister. If you don't stop then or tape over it, it breaks through the surface and tears open into a big kermit's face flapper. Is it actually possible for the skin to fully heal back to normal at that point? I thought once the skin separates then you're going to have to lose it one way or another, either by removing the dead skin manually or getting a nasty flapper.
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Aug 15, 2018 08:01
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RabidWeasel posted:Is it actually possible for the skin to fully heal back to normal at that point? I thought once the skin separates then you're going to have to lose it one way or another, either by removing the dead skin manually or getting a nasty flapper. I don't think so. Eventually it will be shed away naturally. I recommend a pumice stone in the shower.
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Aug 15, 2018 19:06
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Here's the skin care I and the people I climb with follow: 1.) NEVER moisturize hands unless climbing outside consecutive days. 2.) Tape to prevent further injury, bleeding or raw skin. Not otherwise 3.) Always carry a sanding block, and preemptively sand down every finger/pad once a week after a shower or when the skin on your hands is thoroughly moist. Seems to work pretty well, I never get flappers anymore and my skin fares well against rough rock
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Aug 15, 2018 19:10
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Ubiquitus posted:Here's the skin care I and the people I climb with follow: This is basically what I do as well. I jumped into this very enthusiastically and at one point was torn to shreds but this regimen helped and I never get flappers anymore. I don't use a pumice stone, however, I use the whetstones I use for woodworking because 
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Aug 15, 2018 21:32
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Boot bananas, yay or nay?
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Aug 16, 2018 20:51
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Just put your shoes on the outside of your bag. Then they won't smell.
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Aug 16, 2018 20:59
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I don't understand; they're outside my bag for all but the 2-4 hours I wear them and the 30-60 mins travel time between home and climbing walls?
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Aug 16, 2018 21:23
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jet_dee posted:Boot bananas, yay or nay? Yay, but I use moso or something charcoal bags and they work real well
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Aug 16, 2018 21:45
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Before I kept my shoes in my gym bag. They smelled terrible. I used charcoal inserts, etc. Now, I never put my shoes in my bag. I hang them off the side with a carabiner. I am still very sweaty, but my shoes don't smell.
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Aug 16, 2018 21:46
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jet_dee posted:I don't understand; they're outside my bag for all but the 2-4 hours I wear them and the 30-60 mins travel time between home and climbing walls? Are they synthetic uppers (evolve)? If so, they will stink no matter what you do.
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Aug 16, 2018 22:08
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For Evolv shoes I soak them in denture cleaner: fill bucket with warm water, put tabs in shoes put shoes in water. If that doesn't work I'm pretty sure I machine washed a pair in a cloth bag a while back and that worked pretty well. Evolv's site says you're safe to machine wash on gentle for synthetic uppers. Air dry and stuff with newspapers, mostly so they don't shrink. I don't keep my shoes in a bag ever and I've still had a few get so bad I had to buy another pair while I worked on cleaning the old one so I could wear them again.
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Aug 16, 2018 22:24
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The best rappel is off a bollard you made of jumbled loose rock, and which slumps uncomfortably towards the edge when weighted. Or a large-ish chunk of ice lingering in a canyon, which probably won't slide towards the waterfall as you rap. Or several very very dead snags clinging to a cliff, with a 200m drop if they all fail at once (and one pops on the way down). Alpine climbing is where you find out if you're a mountaineer or a gym rat.
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Aug 17, 2018 03:20
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Mythos so leather upper. Maybe I just have particularly odious feet! Got a couple of short trips coming up to Goteburg and Madrid and exploring the indoor bouldering options in the former; came across this https://www.goteborg.com/en/rock-climbing-in-gothenburg/ Outdoor sounds awesome but I'd be on my own and I've never been bouldering outdoors before - only climbing indoors at the v3 level and feel like my fingers need to be a lot stronger before I do venture out. Anyone here climbed indoors/outdoors in either city?
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Aug 17, 2018 07:17
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Rime posted:The best rappel is off a bollard you made of jumbled loose rock, and which slumps uncomfortably towards the edge when weighted. Or a large-ish chunk of ice lingering in a canyon, which probably won't slide towards the waterfall as you rap. Or several very very dead snags clinging to a cliff, with a 200m drop if they all fail at once (and one pops on the way down). These are all situations where you build a gear anchor instead and just abandon 2 nuts, because your life is worth at least $10.
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Aug 17, 2018 12:11
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My first pair of climbing shoes (aside from the pair I bought and returned at REI) is going to need a resole at the end of the summer. Of course I'll pick up another pair around then too, but does anyone have an idea on when would it make sense to resole shoes versus outright replacing them? The upper is muddied but still fine, the insides stink, and most of the sole is there, just some creasing starting to appear at the tip/toes of the shoes.
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Aug 17, 2018 15:36
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Upload a pic of the front of the shoes
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Aug 17, 2018 16:04
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jet_dee posted:Boot bananas, yay or nay? Definitely yes. They're cheap and do their job
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Aug 17, 2018 16:54
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Am I the only person who has absolutely no shoe odour problems even if I climb for 6 hours on the hottest day of the year and immediately jam my shoes in my gear bag and leave them there? To compensate for this, during the summer my harness smells like an animal died and putrefied all over it.
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Aug 17, 2018 17:32
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What’s a good shoe for wide feet? I got some Scarpa Vs a few years ago and I either chose the wrong shoe or sized down too much.
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Aug 17, 2018 17:38
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George H.W. oval office posted:What’s a good shoe for wide feet? I got some Scarpa Vs a few years ago and I either chose the wrong shoe or sized down too much. Otaki's Butora also makes wide and narrow models of their different shoes
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Aug 17, 2018 18:46
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armorer posted:These are all situations where you build a gear anchor instead and just abandon 2 nuts, because your life is worth at least $10. I'm sure than many people in the Rockies would love to know your secrets of building a solid gear anchor in choss using two nuts. 
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Aug 17, 2018 22:13
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Rime posted:I'm sure than many people in the Rockies would love to know your secrets of building a solid gear anchor in choss using two nuts. I've rapped off a bollard, and I've rapped off dead trees (although none pulled mid rap). It's not the sort of situation that I ever seek out though. What summits are you talking about where that's the only option?
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Aug 18, 2018 00:36
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You guys are nuts. Today I dragged my wife to the climbing gym and felt like Tarzan for making in to the top of an autobelay 5.6 without chickening out. My unironic goal for next time is to jump off the top instead of climbing halfway down before I trust the autobelay to catch me.
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Aug 18, 2018 03:01
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