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Yeah, some cheap car wash liquid is pretty good. Someone gave me some old armorall car wash stuff that works well enough if I follow it up with meguires detailing products. There's no reason to put dish-washing liquid on a car unless you want to strip all protections off on purpose.
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Aug 10, 2018 17:12
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 17:23 |
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Many nerds have debunked that dawn strips soap. What it does, however, is dry the rubber out. Semi bad at cleaning. Why not just use proper stuff on a expensive as hell car? Armorall sucks as well.
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Aug 10, 2018 18:07
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I was just thinking of something that even grocery stores often have, amourall or even something like turtlewax won't be used by detailers, but it's available everywhere and is a lot better than dishwashing liquid if someone can't be bothered going to an auto store or online detailing shop.
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Aug 10, 2018 18:35
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Meguiars is in walmart and Target. You really can't get much more available than that
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Aug 10, 2018 19:13
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After several attempts with buffing and polishing by a professional:  There are a few other spots where the paint now looks like orange peel under where the stain was. I’m going to go to the dealership. This isn’t normal.
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Aug 10, 2018 20:08
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Yeah, Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo is what I use, I'm a big fan of Meguiar's in general. I'm surprised it's got so bad in a relatively short period that a pro detailer couldn't fix it.
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Aug 10, 2018 20:49
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Not sure if this is the right thread, but my white Cayman never had any paint protection film put on. It's got 20k miles and there are some usual chips on the front/hood. Would it be worth it to get it paint corrected/PPF put on, or is it not worth it at this time?
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Aug 10, 2018 22:43
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Well, it's about whether it's worth it to you, as unhelpful as that may come across. The one option I'd discount is putting PPF over the damage, that seems pointless if you're paying for decent stuff to be put on there. So strikes me your choices are: - Leave it be, let it chip, only touch in as required to stop rust starting. - Fix it up, put PPF over it. - Fix it up, leave it as straight paint, fix it again as required in future.
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Aug 11, 2018 00:01
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I'm a neurotic when it comes to paint, case in point I've replaced both front and rear bumpers on my last boxster and had the hood and fenders resprayed due to rock chips and I'm scheduled to do the same on this one too, although this one's been quite cosmetically shagged by the previous owners poor driving. I did a "bikini" cut front ppf for the hood, fenders, bumper, and mirrors for my last one after the respray and it looked good but was visible if you knew where to look and the light hit it right. I think on this one I'll go with a ceramic coating instead and see how it holds up. A full frontal ppf would prevent the visibility issue as all the transitions would be across body panels but thats $$$$ and I didn't deem it worth it. But yeah, don't protect damaged point.
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Aug 11, 2018 01:28
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InitialDave posted:Well, it's about whether it's worth it to you, as unhelpful as that may come across. Bajaha posted:I'm a neurotic when it comes to paint, case in point I've replaced both front and rear bumpers on my last boxster and had the hood and fenders resprayed due to rock chips and I'm scheduled to do the same on this one too, although this one's been quite cosmetically shagged by the previous owners poor driving. How much should I expect to pay for a paint correction/front PPF? What's "reasonable" for good work?
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Aug 11, 2018 13:01
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I paid $1100 CAD all in with tax for a full body paint correction, interior detail, and the aforementioned bikini ppf. I went with the XPEL self healing one which is neat since you can scratch the hell out of it and just apply some warm water and it'll go back to looking like new, stuffs like magic. Comes with a 10 year warranty too so if any issues popped up it would be free to repair/replace. Of note, I had the bodywork done in the fall and the protection done in the spring, allowing the paint to fully cure over winter in storage.
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Aug 11, 2018 15:03
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Is there a coating that screws up the paint of idiots who door you or scrape your bumpers
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Aug 12, 2018 02:11
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Bedliner with some nice aggressive grit mixed in?
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Aug 12, 2018 03:32
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OXBALLS DOT COM posted:Is there a coating that screws up the paint of idiots who door you or scrape your bumpers Put a line of PPF at where they are most likely to hit, then glue some super coarse sand paper to it.
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Aug 12, 2018 08:21
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Finally got the garage cleaned enough that I could wash my car and pull it in after a month of house renovation. So therapeutic, detailing really calms me down. Got a chance to use a few new things, all worked out really well. 1st up was P and S Pearl soap http://psdetailproducts.com/i-17540069-pearl-auto-shampoo.html Coming from Chemical Guys Honeydew and Meguiar’s gold class, this is my new soap. Very versatile, able to foam and use in the bucket. Apparently you can use as a waterless wash (haven’t tried yet). Good suds, smells lemony, economical, and was extremely slippery. Dried with some Rag Company Twistress towels. Got these “b” grades 4 for 30 because the manufacturer used the wrong stitch thread color. Dried super well, I used two because I wanted to go fast, but I could have rung one out and done the complete car. A good drying towel. https://www.theragcompany.com/clearance-4-pack-b-grade-double-twistress-20-x-24-drying-towels/ Last, I got to try P and S Beadmaker. It’s a last step product that is a form of sealant. I’m not going to pretend to understand the science, but what I can say is it was very easy to apply. Spray liberally, wipe in and then dry. I used some Eagle Edgeless 500’s that I thought had been washed, but hadn’t. Left a ton of fuzz on my first panel. After everything was done, the car was extremely slick to the touch. I’ll update as I get more time with it. http://psdetailproducts.com/i-23875428-bead-maker-paint-protectant.html
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Aug 12, 2018 22:26
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The beadmaker sounds a little bit like a product I have been using, Meguairs ultimate fast finish. Just spray it on and wipe it off, water beads nice for a few weeks. The shine is OK, not a lot of depth. Its fast and easy, and will have to do until I get the garage cleaned out and proper lighting for a ceramic coating.    The truck is some dark shade of metallic gray/black, not actually black. I live on a dirt road and its been dry so it will only look good until I drive it.
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Aug 12, 2018 23:05
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For stripping wax and other nasty poo poo that doesn't come off with regular washing, I am newly a fan of this stuff: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Heavy-Duty-Vehicle-and-Boat-Pressure-Wash-Concentrate/50941516 Put it in my hose attachment foamer (also from Walmart, it's whatever one they sell on the shelf) and it's brilliant - loads of lubricant, smells nice, dries easily, leaves a very clean surface behind for whatever steps are next.
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Aug 13, 2018 14:42
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For those of you that use a clay mitt, which one do you use?
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Sep 2, 2018 14:46
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I've had a few minor body repairs on my car over the years that required some repainting. The body shop guy said don't use any wax that has silicone(?) in it since that will gently caress up the paint apparently. Any recommendations on a good wax that I can use that doesn't contain silicone? Also, I've gotten my car rust proofed by Krown Rust control the last few years, I've noticed that some of the rusty proofy stuff is kinda leaking out on to my bumpers, around the door frames etc. I'm not necessarily pissed about that, but is there some way I can get rid of that poo poo? Like for example if I wanted to use the wax that is recommended to me in the above question? I've found that going through the car wash doesn't really get all of it, nor does hand washing. At least not using the car wash soap that I've got. I know they tell you not to use dish soap on cars because it (supposedly) strips off wax etc, but if I'm going to wax the thing after I wash, I don't think it matters that much. I just want to get the crap off my bumpers before I try to put a coat of wax over it.
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Sep 2, 2018 20:35
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ratbert90 posted:Even though the op is old, dawn is still my go to for stripping old wax. Yes, please do this. I am looking to give my 20 year old M3 some much needed love. So far I've gotten these items. 2 Buckets Dish soap Griot's synthetic clay bar RO variable speed polisher, 5.5" plate, and 3 different pads Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish Wax I'd like to do a long lasting coating after doing all of this but I did not find a definitive opinion here. I read on autogeek about Klasse high gloss sealant and in here about opticoat/ceramics. Once I have time to get cracking on it I'll post pics of the progress.
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Sep 8, 2018 18:23
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ThirstyBuck posted:Yes, please do this. I am looking to give my 20 year old M3 some much needed love. You're on the right track. Synthetic clay is awesome. Meg's Ultimate will get you most of the way there on its own. I strongly suggest skipping wax and going straight to ceramic coating. I've been using the cheapest coating you can get from China and it has been fantastic. I was teaching on Thursday and all of a sudden I heard pounding on the roof of the room I was in with the sky just opening up. I came out to a nice, clean car... when I got there in a weeks-old dirt covered BMW. Ceramic is the way to go, full stop. Also, my white Escalade is parked outside for now and it has dirt lines that run down it from the rear wiper and where the car drains. Other than that, it's brilliantly clean all the time. And the dirt lines wipe right off with just the slightest of touches, so they're no big deal in themselves.
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Sep 8, 2018 19:22
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EVERYWHERE 
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What is this ceramic stuff?
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Sep 9, 2018 00:23
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OXBALLS DOT COM posted:What is this ceramic stuff? ^^ Yes, this.
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Sep 9, 2018 01:03
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https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32862286377.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32862286377& From his thread.
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Sep 9, 2018 16:29
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ThirstyBuck posted:Yes, please do this. I am looking to give my 20 year old M3 some much needed love.  A day's work. You've already got everything you need, although I used a ceramic instead of wax. I used Gyeon Q2 Mohs ceramic coating. I've since used Gyeon Q2 Pure on another car and would recommend that- it's applied in one thick coat instead of two thinner ones, which saves time.
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Sep 9, 2018 19:31
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ThirstyBuck posted:Yes, please do this. I am looking to give my 20 year old M3 some much needed love. Don't use dish soap. It's not very good at stripping wax (just makes it look like it) and it dries the rubber. CQuartzUk 3.0 is supposed to be very easy to apply and lasts long. Most if not all coatings need a top coat to protect from water spots. You'll probably need diluted IPA or some dedicated panel cleaner before your put the coating on (also good for checking your polishing).
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Sep 10, 2018 15:41
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wesleywillis posted:I've had a few minor body repairs on my car over the years that required some repainting. The body shop guy said don't use any wax that has silicone(?) in it since that will gently caress up the paint apparently. Beuller? Beuller? Beuller?........
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Sep 10, 2018 17:20
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wesleywillis posted:Beuller? Beuller? Beuller?........ Tar remover will probably take off the undercoat smears. For the finish, ceramic that thing. That's going to be my answer for the foreseeable future.
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Sep 10, 2018 18:02
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savesthedayrocks posted:https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32862286377.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32862286377& I bought a couple of these while deciding whether I want to do coat my car or not, can somebody go more into the maintenance after coating? I figure if I don't use it on my car I'm going to do the walls in my shower to try to reduce soap scum/mold buildup.
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Sep 10, 2018 19:17
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dphi posted:I bought a couple of these while deciding whether I want to do coat my car or not, can somebody go more into the maintenance after coating? Quick detailer: Diluted Optimum No Rinse. Basically, anything without any sort of additional wax or other protectant will work well. ONR was recommended by someone who coats cars for a living. Make sure you get the blue one and not the green one- the green contains a sealant. During wash: If you want to maintain the hydrophobic part of the coating (or make it even better), Gyeon WetCoat is really nice. Wash the car, spray it on, spray it off with high pressure. The instructions say to use a pressure washer, but I've also gotten good results with just a hose and jet nozzle. After wash: Gyeon Cure is a "maintenance" spray that contains silica (ceramic). I use this every few months after a full wash. Just spray it on the car as you wipe dry. CarPro Reload is a similar product. The CarPro is cheaper, but I'm still working through all the Cure that comes in the Gyeon coating kits. Water spots: Gyeon WaterSpot kind works if the water spots are fresh. Keep in mind it will reduce the hydrophobicity of your coating, so you'll want to follow up with WetCoat.
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Sep 11, 2018 05:33
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Thanks for the info. My car stays in a carport most of the time but at work, there's a bunch of trees in the parking lot and my car typically has a nice mist-like coating of sap after a few days. That's the main thing I worry about - I haven't been able to find much info on how the coating will react to that or if it will make cleaning off the sap any easier.
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Sep 11, 2018 16:31
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dphi posted:if it will make cleaning off the sap any easier.
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Sep 12, 2018 01:56
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Any particular precautions for washing a satin paintjob?
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Sep 12, 2018 20:08
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Is there any way to fix wrinkled leather seat bolsters?
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Sep 14, 2018 02:56
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Street Soldier posted:Is there any way to fix wrinkled leather seat bolsters? If it's not cracked I've seen people use heat guns to very gently heat up the leather and make it contract a bit. I'd be extremely careful (maybe practice on a hidden spot). If it has cracks there is the "hack" way of using paint and paint thinner to blend paint into the cracks, and the "proper" way of filling the cracks with leather filler and then paint and seal it. Here are some videos I found: "Proper" way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvvGLMMTyFw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUhrar9lR5Q "Hack" way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gI04exWUkKI Heat gun: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XR7N4ZtnWmc I'd read up on if it's actually leather in your car or some form of leatherette/vinyl and if it coated like most modern seats are.
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Sep 14, 2018 08:03
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This is pretty interesting, some brand new GT3's with some defects on the factory paint: https://youtu.be/BXQ0SmNFyBA
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Sep 14, 2018 19:17
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Voltage posted:This is pretty interesting, some brand new GT3's with some defects on the factory paint: Think that's a pretty universal type situation from basically any manufacturer. Those cars go through so many peoples hands and on/off ships and trucks so many times from the factory to the first customer. Usually the dealerships will detail all of that out prior to customer pickup but a lot of collectors who know they are taking their car to Larry at AMMO will tell the dealership to NOT detail the cars. Just leave them with the defects because they know they are immediately shipping the car off to have $20k worth of detailing and clear bra and ceramic coating etc done. It's a pretty crazy world.
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Sep 14, 2018 21:22
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100% Dundee posted:Think that's a pretty universal type situation from basically any manufacturer. Those cars go through so many peoples hands and on/off ships and trucks so many times from the factory to the first customer. I've always wondered what he charges for a full on detail like in that video. Think its really that high?
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Sep 15, 2018 03:56
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opengl128 posted:I've always wondered what he charges for a full on detail like in that video. Think its really that high? I've never had any kind of service like that done so I'm just going off some rough number's I've heard mentioned in previous videos and I really wouldn't be surprised if it was in that neighborhood for a car like that and for the amount of services/etc being done. He mentioned a full detail + paint correction and a full clear bra which I'd assume includes some sort of ceramic/quartz/etc type coating over top of it to allow for easy maintenance/washing. Lets say like ~$5-7.5k for the full detail and paint correction. Then another $7.5-10k or so for the full wrap and coating, etc. If you have the time you should go check out Matt from ObsessedGarage video's right after he took delivery of his White GT3 RS. He took the car to Esoteric and had them do essentially the exact same type of process on his car. At the end he does a video of a full price breakdown of basically exactly what every single service cost and why, etc. If you don't want to watch all 20 videos he did about it, just watch the price breakdown one at the end, I think his ended up being about $15k? Granted he had a few extra things done like window tinting, few simple part installs, transportation/delivery of the vehicle, etc but IIRC those weren't a huge portion of the price.
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Sep 15, 2018 05:46
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I made some progress this weekend. Washed.  Clayed  Compounded  I'll confess to buying the lovely HF orange pads when I got the RO polisher. Absolute trash. The car has many miles and spent most of them in Texas and I'm sure that this is the first time it has ever been given this much attention. The first couple of passes made big improvements but the paint was terrible so no surprise. The ultimate compound wasn't doing anything so I found an old black bottle kicking around labeled "3M RUBBING COMPOUND", without any further information on it, so I tried it out; it was much more aggressive. I'm going to order an assortment of lake country or some other vendor pads and keep working on it. The front clip needs to be resprayed quite badly so that will be a future project. Hi M3 friend! ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Sep 17, 2018 |
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Sep 17, 2018 01:57
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