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Pushpins work pretty well. e: my own question. I need to replace the front motor mount on my car. The OEM is $90, while the other options on Rockauto are around $30-40. Of these brands, which is the least terrible? Anchor, Pioneer, SKP, or Westar? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Sep 6, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 05:39
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tactlessbastard posted:Stupid question: I'd say the XV20 is the best looking older Camry. I'm thinking that I kinda want to get one as a reliable second car so that I can do repairs and maintenance without the pressure of having to get it done in a day or two. Didn't even know they existed in Sweden until I saw one on the road. A bit rare (story of my life). Preferably the V6. While the XV20 has decent safety (4 stars in Euro NCAP), the XV30 is better in every way when it comes to safety. Only trouble is that I've read that Toyota screwed up with the 2.4L engine and that it's been riddled with problems. Head bolts stripping and on later models the oil consumption went through the roof (I guess because they upped the compression and didn't change enough for it to handle it).
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Sep 6, 2018 06:54
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STR posted:Pushpins work pretty well. Anchor is full on poo poo so don't waste your time there.
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Sep 6, 2018 15:25
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Should you turn your AC off when you turn your car off? Does it make it harder for the car to startup with the AC having been left on?
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Sep 6, 2018 17:27
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Dennis McClaren posted:Should you turn your AC off when you turn your car off? Does it make it harder for the car to startup with the AC having been left on? No. The AC compressor has a clutch that lets it disengage. It will engage again after the car is started.
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Sep 6, 2018 17:42
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MrOnBicycle posted:I'd say the XV20 is the best looking older Camry. I really like Solara for some reason, even though it's weirdly shaped and rarely ever came with manual transmissions
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Sep 6, 2018 18:10
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Dennis McClaren posted:Should you turn your AC off when you turn your car off? Does it make it harder for the car to startup with the AC having been left on? I always do but I can't say I have a great reason. Something about less load on the engine while its starting.
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Sep 6, 2018 18:56
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Coming back with a stupid question about the '09 Elantra. There's a squeak in the rear wheels whenever the parking brake is engaged and I sit in the driver's seat. I am not a lard rear end. But the rear wheels squeak whenever I sit down in, and exit, my Elantra. And it's only when the e-brake is on, so it isn't my struts.. What's the safest lube that I can use to slather on the parking brake cable's hook to stop the squeaking? I have lithium grease spray, lithium grease tube, and Ultra Slick Multi-purpose synthetic grease. I just don't want to mess it up and cause the metal linkage to slip by using the wrong lube. I've circled the problem area:  I sprayed the poo poo out of it with brake cleaner, but that only seems to have partially solved the squeaking. melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Sep 6, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 19:06
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I just discovered that a thing I've been imagining since grad-school already exists and is called a "Series Hybrid". I've always wanted an electric car with a tuned generator to extend the range without wasting a bunch of energy on fiddly mechanical transmission bits. Does anyone actually make these and/or have plans to make these? From my extremely poor attempt at research it looks like it is mostly a thing in bigger industrial applications.
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Sep 6, 2018 19:10
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Like these...? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Range_extender_(vehicle)#Automotive
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Sep 6, 2018 19:19
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Volt and i3 spring to mind
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Sep 6, 2018 19:19
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Deteriorata posted:No. The AC compressor has a clutch that lets it disengage. It will engage again after the car is started. You can also notice with most vehicles on a hot day if you floor it with the A/C cranked you'll feel the air coming out of the vents immediately start to warm up. That's because when you go WOT the A/C clutch also disengages to allow the engine to put as much power as possible to the wheels. I'm sure there are some vehicles out there that are missing one or both of these features either due to cheapness in design or breakage over the years, but as a general rule you shouldn't worry about trying to help the car by turning it off in normal circumstances.
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Sep 6, 2018 19:24
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Doesn’t the starting circuit bypass all other demand? Otherwise why would the radio stop and windows stop moving when I crank?
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Sep 6, 2018 19:36
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Corla Plankun posted:I just discovered that a thing I've been imagining since grad-school already exists and is called a "Series Hybrid". I've always wanted an electric car with a tuned generator to extend the range without wasting a bunch of energy on fiddly mechanical transmission bits. Does anyone actually make these and/or have plans to make these? From my extremely poor attempt at research it looks like it is mostly a thing in bigger industrial applications. The Fisker Karma is one of the cars closest to this idea. It's got electric motors to drive it. It goes 32 miles on battery only. It has a 2.0L 4 cylinder ecotec that's hooked up to a generator only. There's no connection to the wheels at all. Unfortunately it only gets 20mpg in gas-only mode. Toyota built a prototype generator trailer for the Rav4 EV called the Rav Long Ranger. The trailer had a 0.5L two cylinder motorcycle engine that ran at 7,000 rpm and gave a 60amp output. It could maintain 60-80mph with no battery drain at 30-35mpg on premium.
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Sep 6, 2018 19:38
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Getting quoted $1700 for an AC compressor and receiver/dryer/whatever? haven't looked at it yet on an 04 Rav4. Is this at all reasonable and can I do this DIY without spending several times $1700? edit: same shop wanted 500 for 2x pads and rotors lol shovelbum fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Sep 6, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 19:47
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Deteriorata posted:No. The AC compressor has a clutch that lets it disengage. It will engage again after the car is started. To add to this, I would expect the vast majority of cars to only have their HVAC systems powered when the key is in run, not start. So the engine is already running by the time the HVAC control gets any electricity and even could engage the relay to trigger the clutch coil. shovelbum posted:Getting quoted $1700 for an AC compressor and receiver/dryer/whatever? haven't looked at it yet on an 04 Rav4. Is this at all reasonable and can I do this DIY without spending several times $1700? Rockauto has full compressor/component kits for around $200 plus shipping, and even if you buy yourself a gauge set and vacuum pump outright instead of borrowing them from Autozone, you're still coming in at least $1300 ahead of a shop. If the labor to get at those parts isn't a complete and total motherfucker I'd do it.
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Sep 6, 2018 19:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:To add to this, I would expect the vast majority of cars to only have their HVAC systems powered when the key is in run, not start. So the engine is already running by the time the HVAC control gets any electricity and even could engage the relay to trigger the clutch coil. Need a recovery setup too right, that's where the cost is in HVAC crap iirc from buying poo poo for work, I don't even know what I'd do with a barely-full recovery cylinder tbqh
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Sep 6, 2018 19:59
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0toShifty posted:Toyota built a prototype generator trailer for the Rav4 EV called the Rav Long Ranger. The trailer had a 0.5L two cylinder motorcycle engine that ran at 7,000 rpm and gave a 60amp output. It could maintain 60-80mph with no battery drain at 30-35mpg on premium. Hell yes! This is insanely my poo poo, thanks for the information.
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Sep 6, 2018 20:02
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shovelbum posted:Need a recovery setup too right, that's where the cost is in HVAC crap iirc from buying poo poo for work, I don't even know what I'd do with a barely-full recovery cylinder tbqh Worst case, pay a shop to recover the refrigerant.
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Sep 6, 2018 20:07
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I had actually been wondering about that too, thanks. I can’t find the particular problem with my wife’s AC in the maintenance records, so I’ll have to call the shop. If it’s the compressor, though, I think I’ll call my shade tree (actually has a home shop) mechanic uncle and see if he’ll do it for a lot cheaper if I buy the parts. I just don’t want to ever touch the AC system myself, refrigerant burns scare me.
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Sep 6, 2018 20:12
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I had actually been wondering about that too, thanks. I can’t find the particular problem with my wife’s AC in the maintenance records, so I’ll have to call the shop. If it’s the compressor, though, I think I’ll call my shade tree (actually has a home shop) mechanic uncle and see if he’ll do it for a lot cheaper if I buy the parts. I just don’t want to ever touch the AC system myself, refrigerant burns scare me. Refrigerant isn't bad, it's probably one of the safer fluids you will ever deal with in industry, but it's the regulation that makes it a pain imo
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Sep 6, 2018 20:59
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GF's 2007 Peugeot 307 hatchback, 1.6L auto. After braking sharply, there's a fuel smell for a few seconds after which it dissipates. She took it to a trusted shop over the weekend on an unrelated issue but forgot to mention the fuel smell, and they looked over the whole car for her but didn't find or change anything that addresses the issue, so it's nothing that is immediately obvious. Any thoughts as to what it could be?
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Sep 6, 2018 21:40
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If it only happens when the tank is over 3/4 full then my guess is the tank gasket for sender/pump. It usually doesn't get wet and it dry rots, when some liquid fuel splashes on it you can often smell it straight away. However if it happens even when the fuel tank is lower than half then that can't explain it, so maybe something else like a filler or breather hose?
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Sep 6, 2018 21:46
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melon cat posted:Coming back with a stupid question about the '09 Elantra. If that is whats actually causing the squeak, it may be a bit of a crap shoot. You can try some different poo poo and see what happens, how long it lasts and all that. Try some of this poo poo though: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/jig-a-loo-graphite-extreme-lubricant-0381502p.html#srp Its dry and won't pick up road grit and all that poo poo which might help it last a bit longer.
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Sep 6, 2018 23:33
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Hello, aIl! Someone from the Ask/Tell small questions thread recommended I post my question here . Car (my first): 2002 Chevy Tahoe LX, 5.3L engine, 4WD. Preowned, 180,000 miles. Question: What is a good place to look for advice, ideas, and general help on modding/reuphosltering/upgrading a beater car as a project? (I've looked through a few threads in the forum, but I couldn't see a mod/upgrade your car). I'm more looking for interior modifications than engine ones, mostly because I am new at car ownership and I don't see a reason to mess with the engine right now. I'm looking to use the Tahoe to travel across the continent (Alaska to the Midwest via Canada) in a little less than a year, and would like to try and remodel the insides so I could comfortably sleep in the car if possible. I'm trying to figure out costs (buying a used pop-up trailer vs modding the car vs hotels) to see if modding would be an achievable goal for a newbie like me.
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Sep 7, 2018 00:23
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Oh hi. My 2012 Subaru Outback went through 3 low beam light bulbs in <6 months and I suspect that something is up. I was very careful to not touch the bulbs as I installed them. An ignorant inspection showed condensation on the inside of the headlights, so I am suspecting that that contributed? If so, (1) how do I clean this up and (2) how do I keep it dry in there?
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Sep 7, 2018 01:56
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melon cat posted:Coming back with a stupid question about the '09 Elantra. I love the tube lithium personally. Slather it on, that’s not the part that keeps it locked.
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Sep 7, 2018 02:59
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10dishOkiku posted:Hello, aIl! Check out expedition portal and their forums.
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Sep 7, 2018 02:59
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Will do! Thank you!
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Sep 7, 2018 03:47
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Dennis McClaren posted:Should you turn your AC off when you turn your car off? Does it make it harder for the car to startup with the AC having been left on? Stop taking advice from grandpa on modern cars. This isn't and hasn't been an issue for decades. You're talking about a "problem" that was barely a problem back in the days of aftermarket and dealer-installed AC in the 80s.
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Sep 7, 2018 04:38
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10dishOkiku posted:Car (my first): 2002 Chevy Tahoe LX, 5.3L engine, 4WD. Preowned, 180,000 miles. Just FYI, if you ever do get the bug, that 5.3 is in the LS engine family, which means you have literally the widest possible selection of aftermarket parts. Anything you could think of to do to the engine, there is a kit for it, tailored to your specific truck, for a fairly reasonable price. E: Hell, the GMT800 truck platform might be more popular than the vettes/camaros most people think of for LS motors. Oooh, and that's the iron block version. Slap the biggest blower in there you can find. 
Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 04:40
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wolrah posted:You can also notice with most vehicles on a hot day if you floor it with the A/C cranked you'll feel the air coming out of the vents immediately start to warm up. That's because when you go WOT the A/C clutch also disengages to allow the engine to put as much power as possible to the wheels. A lot of cars with variable displacement compressors don't do this (GM's economy cars come to mind), and a lot of cars have gone to variable displacement compressors. 22 Eargesplitten posted:refrigerant burns scare me. Pay attention to what you're doing, don't huff the refrigerant, and you won't have an issue with that even if something blows up. I've had a gauge hose decide it didn't like its crimp fitting and start spraying (high side with the car running), and I was able to get it disconnected without frostbite/burns (I did wad up a shop rag to grab the fitting, also shut the car off first to bring the pressure down a bit). Made a mess all over the engine bay and front bumper from the PAG oil though. IOwnCalculus posted:Anchor is full on poo poo so don't waste your time there. Thanks, I knew at least one of the brands were lambasted on these here forums as being garbage, but couldn't remember which.
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Sep 7, 2018 05:53
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STR posted:A lot of cars with variable displacement compressors don't do this (GM's economy cars come to mind), and a lot of cars have gone to variable displacement compressors. I did not know this, TIL. Aren't there also a lot of vehicles that are switching belt-driven accessories to electric as well and just upgrading the alternator? Between start-stop systems and PHEVs you can't really count on the ICE running all the time.
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Sep 7, 2018 15:45
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Pham Nuwen posted:2005 Ford Ranger (tan). Sometimes (not every time, maybe 30%) as I'm stopping, on the final stretch from like 3 mph to 0 mph, the following happens: Followup: it was the wheel bearing.
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Sep 7, 2018 19:41
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Does the Honda "econ" button do anything at all on a stickshift car? (Especially if you don't happen to be running the air conditioner?)
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Sep 7, 2018 22:56
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Powered Descent posted:Does the Honda "econ" button do anything at all on a stickshift car? (Especially if you don't happen to be running the air conditioner?) quote:How Does Honda ECON Button Work ?
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Sep 7, 2018 23:22
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Honestly I prefer my CR-V in econ mode. The throttle tip in and shift patterns in "normal mode" are cranked way up to make it feel more powerful than it really is.
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Sep 8, 2018 01:36
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theHUNGERian posted:Oh hi. Help.
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Sep 9, 2018 01:01
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What bulbs were you using? If the cause of the bulbs burning out IS the condensation, then you might have to just replace the light assembly. I don't know about your car. Some lights, like the one on my old Mazda were easy to replace, like 3 or four bolts and it practically falls out. My Corolla on the otherhand, I have to take the bumper and a bunch of other poo poo off to get them bitches out. You might have success with dumping a bunch of glue/silicone caulking around the seam where the clear lens meets up with the reflector assembly. That is most likely where the leak is. That might seal it off. How to get rid of the condensation is a different story. If you can remove the light assembly, you could leave it sitting in the sun for a while? My lights have two bulbs. I'd probably remove both bulbs, and ram a shop vac hose up against one, and let it suck air in one hole and out the other, through the vac. It seems like the sort of wacky thing that might work. Assuming the day isn't like 200000% humidity or something.
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Sep 9, 2018 01:26
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wesleywillis posted:What bulbs were you using? Sylvania Silverstar H7. The annoying thing with the bulbs in this car is that you have to tilt the front wheels all the way in order to remove a cover so you can access/replace the bulb. Because heaven forbid you allow the owner to replace light bulbs through the engine. It's annoying as hell. Because of this contraption, it is next to impossible to inspect the backside of the assembly. Hell, I can't even have my hands up there and see at the same time that's how little room there is. I should probably just take it to my mechanic.
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Sep 9, 2018 03:00
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