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SciFiDownBeat posted:The dealership system is an archaic holdover from the roaring 20s. It's tyool 2018, dealership unions need to be destroyed so manufacturers can sell direct to consumers man dont call a cartel a union, sheesh
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Sep 7, 2018 21:02
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skipdogg posted:The large manufacturers have no interest in selling direct to consumers. It's not part of their business model. I heard buying from the manufacturer being a thing in Europe. I mean dealerships are kind of entrenched here manufacturers probably just aren't interested in fighting them. My car buying experience has been less then the most enjoyable but hey emails don't cost me much of anything to do and someone actually managed to find the car I wanted (well close enough it has $100 double floor) while everyone else didn't seem to bother or gave up after searching the region. I do kind of feel dickish though if I don't go with the place I test drove a car at. Duck and Cover fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 21:22
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Currently DDing a car that gets 24mg on the highway and requires premium fuel. Not ideal. I now commute 20 miles to work and back each do so I'm putting 200 miles on the car a week. I think it's time to remedy that. I'm not sure I want to sell this car as I love it but it's not very money friendly to drive it to work. Have $2900 on hand today, will increase the longer i wait buy would like to get this rolling, looking at 2000's Civics and Corollas. Looking for most bang for the buck with highest MPG. Creature comforts not important, I can upgrade a stereo and seat if necessary. No transmission preference. Suggestions?
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Sep 9, 2018 16:48
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Duck and Cover posted:I heard buying from the manufacturer being a thing in Europe. I mean dealerships are kind of entrenched here manufacturers probably just aren't interested in fighting them. Don’t. I just bought a car two days ago. I would have done it a week earlier but the first dealer that did all the selling work ended up sucking when we got to price. They didn’t disclose at any point in the process that they put all their bullshit add-ons as standard on all their cars that added an extra $1500 to the OTD price. They refused to move a penny on it and once they realized they had to put effort into my sale they more or less told me they didn’t want my business anyways. I gave the second dealership the easiest sale of their life. Dealers are not your friends. If you don’t feel good about the car or the price, just walk away.
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Sep 9, 2018 17:09
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Sacred Cow posted:Don’t. I just bought a car two days ago. I would have done it a week earlier but the first dealer that did all the selling work ended up sucking when we got to price. They didn’t disclose at any point in the process that they put all their bullshit add-ons as standard on all their cars that added an extra $1500 to the OTD price. They refused to move a penny on it and once they realized they had to put effort into my sale they more or less told me they didn’t want my business anyways. If he does that I'll go elsewhere. There's a reason I got trade in value at carmax and another dealer. It's more that I feel the place that I test drove at gets preference, if they are going to charge me more I'll just go elsewhere. Turns out they were willing to do roughly 1,500 more on my trade in (maybe the check engine light didn't turn on for them? Although I don't think it did for Carmax and Carmax had an offer similar to the other dealership) and were cheapest. I think I'm just going to accept the deal, maybe ask for a few hundred off. It's really kind of amazing at how many variables in cost there are. Oh MSRP? That one's MSRP is totally higher for what appears to be the same car. Doc fees? Variable but always there. Vin etching? I saw it but it wasn't on every offer. Trade in? Variable. What a garbage business model. Well we'll give that guy a low x which will fool him and he won't realize we have a large y and we also added a z.
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Sep 9, 2018 17:58
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Rhyno posted:Currently DDing a car that gets 24mg on the highway and requires premium fuel. Not ideal. I now commute 20 miles to work and back each do so I'm putting 200 miles on the car a week. I think it's time to remedy that. I'm not sure I want to sell this car as I love it but it's not very money friendly to drive it to work. Is there anything else wrong with your current car? If not, and your budget is $2900, I'd just keep driving what you have. For a 2004 Civic or Corolla, it's estimated $1400-1500 to drive 15,000 miles a year (grabbed this from fueleconomy.gov). By buying this new to you car, are you going to be saving that much once you factor in insurance, maintenance, etc.?
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Sep 9, 2018 18:03
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Rhyno posted:Currently DDing a car that gets 24mg on the highway and requires premium fuel. Not ideal. I now commute 20 miles to work and back each do so I'm putting 200 miles on the car a week. I think it's time to remedy that. I'm not sure I want to sell this car as I love it but it's not very money friendly to drive it to work. Keep driving the car you have for a while until you are in a stronger financial position to buy a better car. Buying a 15 year old used car, even if a Civic/Corolla, isn't going to be a problem-free financial panacea. Plus it's a hassle. Remember that miles per gallon is not a linear scale, and the real world marginal value of each additional unit decreases rather rapidly. 24mpg even with premium isn't as bad as it sounds. 800 miles per month at 24mpg = ~33 gallons of gas. At $3.50/gal that's $116/mo. Say that you got a ~2003 Civic or Corolla that gets 35mpg. 800 miles per month at 35mpg = ~23 gallons of gas. Let's say 20c/gal cheaper for regular, so at $3.30 that's still $76/mo. Hell even if we are generous and say 40mpg = 20 gal/mo = $66. Is saving $40-50/mo in gas really worth selling one used car that you know and love to buy another old used car that will be a boring economy car, and have an unknown quantity of cheap 15 year old used car problems? That ~$500/yr gas savings could be wiped out real quick in a shop. Plus depending on your state you'll have to deal with fees and taxes for buying/registering a car, which could be several hundred dollars even on a cheap car which alone could be like 4-6 months or more worth of gas. Guinness fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Sep 9, 2018 |
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Sep 9, 2018 18:06
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Rhyno posted:Currently DDing a car that gets 24mg on the highway and requires premium fuel. Not ideal. I now commute 20 miles to work and back each do so I'm putting 200 miles on the car a week. I think it's time to remedy that. I'm not sure I want to sell this car as I love it but it's not very money friendly to drive it to work. Have you run the numbers on the actual difference between 24mpg premium and say 30mpg regular? It’s probably around 30 dollars a month. I mean if you just want a beater go for it, but there’s a zero % chance you come out ahead.
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Sep 9, 2018 18:14
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Rhyno posted:Currently DDing a car that gets 24mg on the highway and requires premium fuel. Not ideal. I now commute 20 miles to work and back each do so I'm putting 200 miles on the car a week. I think it's time to remedy that. I'm not sure I want to sell this car as I love it but it's not very money friendly to drive it to work. 24 MPG @ 10400 miles per year = 434 gallons of $3.397 (current national average for permium) for a total fuel cost of $1475. 43 MPG @ 10400 miles per year = 242 gallons of $2.847 for a total fuel cost of $689 A fuel savings of $786 per year. Now subtract the cost of registration, insurance and maintenance (add in the maintenince savings from yours existing car) and subtract the dollar value you put on driving a car you like rather than a shitbox commuter car. What number do you get? Is it still a cost saving or did it end up costing you more? And we haven't even factored in purchase cost of the commuter car yet.
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Sep 9, 2018 19:10
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Motronic posted:24 MPG @ 10400 miles per year = 434 gallons of $3.397 (current national average for permium) for a total fuel cost of $1475. Question. Is there an online calculator that will accept make/model of a vehicle and spit out this kind annual fuel consumption estimate or even cost of ownership? Or maybe an Android app? I'm having trouble finding one. Thanks in advance.
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Sep 9, 2018 19:23
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Nitrox posted:You're actually pretty generous with that 43 mpg, most cars can't reach that without serious hypermiling effort. Edmund's TCO calculator may be helpful. It includes estimated fuel cost as a line item.
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Sep 9, 2018 19:27
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Motronic posted:24 MPG @ 10400 miles per year = 434 gallons of $3.397 (current national average for permium) for a total fuel cost of $1475. But along those lines, a car they like isn't the same as saying it 'better' car. I really like my car, but I fully admit, it's over 25 years old and was always an economy car. That MAYBE adds another feature here, too: What if the cost of owning/insuring both cars isn't all that bad to warrant keeping both? Would an extra $200-500 a year be worth it to have a 'good' car and a bit of 'shitbox' at the same time? In some cases, I would say yes. There might be a good discount if you insure two car that makes it a relatively acceptable increase per year. The poster is doing highway driving which maybe implies a longer distance trip to and from just work, so being out of a car for even just a few days might be well more in rental costs and lost wages than added insurance/registration fee stuff. edit: I fully admit, this derail is really not about the poster's question JediTalentAgent fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 9, 2018 |
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Sep 9, 2018 20:05
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FilthyImp posted:Now, he said he just gives his car a quick vacuum and cleanout on the inside when he goes to do the trade in. He's not a slob and doesn't have kids, so he doesn't have to worry about 3 month old Burger wrappers or projectile puke on the interior. I've only traded in one car ever so, yeah, but I wouldn't bother with a detail on a trade. They're going to do it anyway (or just chuck it off at auction). I don't think the dealer hardly took more than a glance at my trade-in when they made their offer.
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Sep 10, 2018 01:43
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JediTalentAgent posted:But along those lines, a car they like isn't the same as saying it 'better' car. I really like my car, but I fully admit, it's over 25 years old and was always an economy car. dude read some stuff that gets posted, the guy is doing 200 miles a week on his commute if you pay $200-500 year to "save money on gas" even assuming that this rather optimistic number is correct, you are then netting something like $200 in benefit... probably not worth it overall, plus now you drive your shitbox 200 miles a week on your commute rather than a car you actually like
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Sep 10, 2018 01:49
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Nitrox posted:You're actually pretty generous with that 43 mpg Yet I still made my point on how dumb of an idea this is, and avoided "BUT BUT, THIS SHITBOX GETS 37 MPG, NOT 32". FYI, 43 is the manufacturer reported highway MPG for a strip model 2000 Civic, likely with painters tape over all the body seams, windows up, no headlights or even a radio on, with a tail wind while drafting a semi. Motronic fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Sep 10, 2018 |
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Sep 10, 2018 03:04
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mariooncrack posted:Is there anything else wrong with your current car? If not, and your budget is $2900, I'd just keep driving what you have. For a 2004 Civic or Corolla, it's estimated $1400-1500 to drive 15,000 miles a year (grabbed this from fueleconomy.gov). By buying this new to you car, are you going to be saving that much once you factor in insurance, maintenance, etc.? It's my Speed6 and I have a pile of parts I want to install (because race car) and I was going to rollit into the garage this winter and start on that. Or sell it. The bullshit premium fuel cost is a factor, some weeks 93 octane is a full dollar higher than 87. But yeah, Beater was the idea. Just something to soak up commuter miles. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Sep 10, 2018 |
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Sep 10, 2018 04:12
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Dude, nothing wrong with getting a beater, especially if your gonna be working on the other car. Beaters are awesome and serve a nobel purpose. Trying to justify buying a second car to save 40 dollars a month in gas is dumb and is going to get called out every time in this thread. Should have just said you wanted a cheap beater that’s good on gas so you can work on the 6. A dollar more for premium is nuts. The spread here is 50 cents or so. A little less at Costco.
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Sep 10, 2018 08:20
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Yeah I realize that, shoulda have been clear. I want a beater to soak up miles while I work on the other one. Or sell it, I'm pretty much in the middle right now on it. But yeah, I want a beater!
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Sep 10, 2018 08:30
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The spread here in Michigan is insane. Moving here was a shock.
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Sep 10, 2018 13:37
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Rhyno posted:It's my Speed6 and I have a pile of parts I want to install (because race car) and I was going to rollit into the garage this winter and start on that. Or sell it. Agreeing that this sounds like an actual reason to get a beater, as opposed to "I have a perfectly working car that takes premium and want to optimize fuel spend."
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Sep 10, 2018 14:06
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Yeah I should have laid it out better. I'm going to look at a Zx2 escort later!
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Sep 10, 2018 14:40
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My favorite beater was a 1st gen dodge neon. Wouldn’t want to get into a wreck in one, but cheap to own, cheap to run and cheap to fix.
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Sep 10, 2018 15:41
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I'm going to recommend you save a couple hundred of those dollars to fly and buy your beater somewhere without winter. What you pay in southwest tickets, you'll save in tetanus shots.
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Sep 10, 2018 15:56
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nm posted:I'm going to recommend you save a couple hundred of those dollars to fly and buy your beater somewhere without winter. There's two different lots in town that bring in Florida cars to sell here, gonna see what they have on the lot tomorrow.
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Sep 10, 2018 17:23
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skipdogg posted:A dollar more for premium is nuts. The spread here is 50 cents or so. A little less at Costco. Costco makes premium bearable. They're always cheaper than any other station I can get to on a regular basis, and they have the lowest spread from regular to premium.
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Sep 10, 2018 19:19
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Rhyno posted:There's two different lots in town that bring in Florida cars to sell here, gonna see what they have on the lot tomorrow. Florida salts their roads, it's just that nature does it.
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Sep 11, 2018 01:35
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Gonna ask for some recommendations, last car was a 2008 Subaru Spec B and although it was a fun car, the repairs and maintenance costs got crazy. I spent over 6k in the last four years. That car had 120k and luckily my in laws bailed us out and traded us their 2010 ford flex with 30k less miles. They got an insurance warranty on it that covered it to 100k and it has had both turbos replaced. It's at 98k now. We like the car but a sound can be heard that sounds like a spoke turning is still going on and they are saying nothing is wrong even after looking at it. There is also a leak that they are saying is "wear on the drain line on the condenser, dripping onto the transmission, causing the oil in the driveway." My wife doesn't want to deal with a bunch of repairs or anything since we recently had a baby.. After going to get stuff repaired twice at the dealership I am sure in the same boat. Our other car, a 2007 Scion xB, I just paid to get fixed and it cost me $1500 to get everything done (all brakes, fluids, a bearing on the rear axle.) So we are looking for a vehicle to fill in that spot for both of us to drive. From talking, we think a small SUV or large car would be best. We are also saving for a house, but know that a car is probably what is needed next. Looking at the smaller SUVs, The Mazda cx5 looks good. The local Nissan dealer is sitting on a ton of Rogues though so I think I may be able to get a good deal on those. My wife also had a Rav4 before the scoin so is partial to those. Just wondering what the recommendations are here. Proposed Budget: 20-25k. (I'm guessing based on 300ish a month budget.) New or Used: Either Body Style: (e.g. 2 door? 4 door? Compact/Midsize/Fullsize Sedan? Truck? SUV?) Def 4 door, large sedan to small SUV. How will you be using the car?: Work and kid stuff (20-50mi day)(Do you tow things? Haul more than 5 people on a regular basis? Have a super long commute? How are you going to use this vehicle? Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?) What aspects are most important to you? I care most about reliabilty and MPG/maintenance.
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Sep 11, 2018 07:11
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dude you are planning to spend 25 thousand dollars to avoid minimal routine 100k mile car maintenance and light repair. cars need wear parts, fluids, and sometimes some small repairs! Six grand in maintenance and repair for a 100k mile Spec.B sounds about right. calibrate your expectations "don't want to deal with a bunch of repairs and stuff because we just had a baby" because buying a car is such a pleasant experience god drat man come on
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Sep 11, 2018 11:57
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Good spot to repeat what the OP says: whatever it is you really want, own it. If you want a new car because driving a new car makes you feel good, fine. It’s a bad financial move if your current car still runs, but whatever, it’s your money. But don’t delude yourself with bullshit excuses because you don’t like admitting you just want a new car for the sake of having a new car. Being completely honest with yourself about your motivations is important to not end up getting ripped off by salespeople who make their living exploiting people’s ignorances and insecurities
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Sep 11, 2018 13:28
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oh also do not buy cars on monthly payment 20k at 60 months at 3.1% is 360/mo 25k at 60 months at 3.1 is 450/mo to get to 300/mo you have to finance 20k at 3.1% for 72 months do not finance a car for 72 months
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Sep 11, 2018 14:23
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Sounds more like you need a better mechanic. Are you doing this stuff at a dealer? Doing my engine and transmission on my legacy gt cost less than $6k. (EJ257s are not reliable motors, I'd have recommending dumping that was well). Also, prius V.
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Sep 11, 2018 15:04
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Any tips for looking/buying from a private seller? Looking at a listing for a Corolla (66k miles) being offered at $10k. I can't imagine my MO would be much different from a dealer other than having to manually do paperwork. Test drive it, get it independently inspected, make sure they have the title, etc.
kalel fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Sep 11, 2018 |
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Sep 11, 2018 15:38
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My buddy is looking to buy this for 31k out the door, seems like a really good price? https://www.myrtlebeachchryslerjeep.net/inventory/used-2017-audi-a4-2-0t-quattro-4d-sedan-wauenaf49hn017205
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Sep 11, 2018 15:45
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fyallm posted:My buddy is looking to buy this for 31k out the door, seems like a really good price? Myrtle Beach? He'll get an even better price next week.
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Sep 11, 2018 15:56
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Deteriorata posted:Myrtle Beach? He'll get an even better price next week. Well yeah, got to get it before its flooded
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Sep 11, 2018 16:34
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take me you ANIMAL posted:I just paid to get fixed and it cost me $1500 to get everything done (all brakes, fluids, a bearing on the rear axle.) You need to get your hands dirty or make friends with a mechanic. I dunno about the other 6k but most of your repairs sound really easy. Brakes and fluids should be child's play. Most of the cars you mentioned are at or approaching 10 years old and I would expect more minor repairs to start popping up. Find a cheaper way to keep up with those or get newer vehicles. I'd keep the Toyota/Scion and look to move the rest.
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Sep 11, 2018 17:08
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fyallm posted:My buddy is looking to buy this for 31k out the door, seems like a really good price? Is this guy really going to buy a car right before the whole area gets flooded?
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Sep 11, 2018 18:18
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Is this guy really going to buy a car right before the whole area gets flooded? What's wrong with that?
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Sep 11, 2018 18:21
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fyallm posted:What's wrong with that? Step 1: Buy 2 year old entry level lux car Step 2: Whole area floods Step 3a: Car doesn’t total, deal with electrical issues forever, car smells like rear end no matter what Step 3b: Car does total, insurance company values it less than you paid. Have to fight the valuation. Your rental car expires. It just doesn’t make sense to buy a $30k item right before a massive natural disaster
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Sep 11, 2018 18:26
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Step 1: Buy 2 year old entry level lux car Is step 1 an actual issue? It seem's like a pretty good price. And step's 2 & 3 are null and void because he is taking the car out of the area.
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Sep 11, 2018 18:27
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