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USB 2.0 is limited so something like 300 or 330mbps, not sure what the overhead on the singles would be. 3.0 is maybe 5gbps off the top of my head. If you’re doing any kind of data transfer and the device is 3.0 compatible, 100% use 3.0.
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Sep 16, 2018 20:34
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What would the best thread be to post ISP issues that they are now blaming on my home network hardware? I wrote up a long post but now I’m not sure where to put it, as I didn’t see any specific thread here or in Inspect Your Gadgets (there’s an ISP thread but it says it’s marked to be archived).
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Sep 17, 2018 00:31
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The Midniter posted:What would the best thread be to post ISP issues that they are now blaming on my home network hardware? I wrote up a long post but now I’m not sure where to put it, as I didn’t see any specific thread here or in Inspect Your Gadgets (there’s an ISP thread but it says it’s marked to be archived). Might as well post it here. If they're blaming your network equipment there's a lot of goons who can try to evaluate if they're right or just passing the buck like ISPs usually do.
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Sep 17, 2018 00:54
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Emetic Hustler posted:Looking to add a wifi adapter to my desktop. Primarily looking for a USB dongle type, but a PCI card isn't out of the question if there is a good option. 5GHz capability preferred. Does it matter what version of USB it is? I guess the amount of data it can handle depends on what USB version it is? Are there much difference between the different brands? Go PCI based, that way you can opt for a decent card rather than whatever bargain basement chipset everyone rebrands. I've generally had good luck with Intel cards.
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Sep 17, 2018 02:29
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H2SO4 posted:Go PCI based, that way you can opt for a decent card rather than whatever bargain basement chipset everyone rebrands. I've generally had good luck with Intel cards. Same here. The Intel chips work well (much more reliable than any Marvell or Broadcom things I've had in the past), but it's annoying having an antenna. Is there anyway to have a more... low-profile antenna for this bad boy?
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Sep 17, 2018 07:09
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Rexxed posted:Might as well post it here. If they're blaming your network equipment there's a lot of goons who can try to evaluate if they're right or just passing the buck like ISPs usually do. Got it. I relocated to Florida recently and signed up with Xfinity for a 150/10 Internet-only plan. I own my modem (Motorola MB7420) and router (Netgear R7000). They functioned flawlessly with the Spectrum service I used in NC. Since day 1 of the Xfinity service, we will randomly lose service for 5-15 minutes at a time. Sometimes it’s just a few times a day, sometimes its an all-day thing where it happens several times an hour. Anecdotally, it is more frequent in the evenings and on the weekends. Sometimes resetting the modem will restore service, sometimes not, but only until the next outage. I have made multiple calls to their worthless braindead customer service with no resolution, and chatted online with their agents (much better than the phone agents) several times to complain and schedule service visits. I’ve been notified several times that they see the outages on their end, but only at a superficial level with no details. The first service visit, the tech said the signal was a bit leaky and replaced the ends of the coax both at the smart panel that receives the signal from outside as well as at the wall jack that leads to the modem. He said this strengthened the reliability of the signal and it seemed to help for a few hours which may have been placebo, as it started happening again. I scheduled a second service visit where the tech just checked the signal outside, at the smart panel, and at the wall jack which he said were all fine. He told me that the issue must be with either my modem (less than a year old) or my router (about two years old), and I’d need to replace them to see if that fixed it before they’d send another tech out since on a third visit for the same issue, a supervisor has to come with them. I think this is bullshit. The hardware functioned flawlessly prior to moving to FL, and the fact they told me they could see the outages on their end the first few times I contacted them makes me think they’re full of poo poo. I really don’t feel like going through the hassle and expense of swapping out the hardware just to diagnose it, even if it confirms the issue is on their end and I’m able to return the new hardware. Do I have any recourse, or is there anything I can do? Here’s one weird part: I work from home, and my laptop is connected to my company’s network via VPN. I initially connect to my home network wirelessly, so I’d expect my VPN connection to be interrupted when the rest of my home devices (two iPhones, two TCL smart TVs) lose connection, but it’s never happened. My wife currently works from home too and said she hadn’t been kicked off her VPN either until this past week, while I was out of town. Also: when I lose service, if I turn off the WiFi on my phone and check the status of the connection through the Xfinity app via LTE, it shows it’s connected and online. The status lights on the modem also indicate the connection is up and running, even during outages. One thing that leads me to believe that it’s an issue on their end is that since activating service, I’ve been prompted three separate times to go through the new service activation step. I’ve tried to get around this but any address I enter dumps me at the activation splash screen. These outages occur on both the 2.4 and 5Ghz connections. What the hell can be causing this? What can I do? It’s getting to be extremely frustrating.
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Sep 17, 2018 15:37
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What does the outage look like? If your VPN stays up but getting to websites doesn't work then it could be your router causing issues with opening new sessions, or it's a DNS problem. Try and spend a while with just the cable modem connected to the coax and then to your laptop, and see how you get on.
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Sep 17, 2018 15:52
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Thanks Ants jogged my memory. I had similar problems with Comcast when I moved in one place at first, it got better after I set up Google DNS. Or this could be your excuse to set up a Pi Hole for your DNS  .Says the guy who just ordered a pi yesterday.
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Sep 17, 2018 16:20
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Has that Netgear ever had its firmware upgraded? I know there were some exploits maybe a year ago targeting that model. Might be worth checking out. Also, you need to get into the router firmware when a drop happens and check its WAN status.
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Sep 17, 2018 16:44
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Thanks Ants posted:What does the outage look like? If your VPN stays up but getting to websites doesn't work then it could be your router causing issues with opening new sessions, or it's a DNS problem. Agreed. If the modem stays online, the signals are good, and existing sessions are not dropping (VPN), then it's not a signal issue on their side. Reset your router to factory defaults and upgrade the firmware to start.
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Sep 17, 2018 17:54
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The Midniter posted:What the hell can be causing this? What can I do? It’s getting to be extremely frustrating. The modem activation stuff sounds like a problem with their DNS, which you should be able to solve by having your router use a different DNS server. Seconding 'Make sure that the firmware of the netgear is updated.' but also 'Make sure that the manufacturer is even releasing current updates for it.'
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Sep 17, 2018 21:02
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It might be even worth paying for a month's worth of VPN for a few bucks. Then you can do all your browsing for a few hours whilst connected to a VPN that isn't sharing your personal internet use with work. If the connection stays strong all night on a commercial VPN service then you know that your hardware/Xfinity hardware is good, and it's down to lovely configuration on their side.
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Sep 17, 2018 21:33
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Keep in mind that a lot of VPN clients will silently try to reconnect when there's an outage, so unless you're doing a continuous ping or something the session may just be reestablishing automatically.
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Sep 17, 2018 21:47
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Good point. I wonder if there's some free network monitoring software out there that will keep a continuous stream going for X hours overnight and report any stoppages? There's gotta be some kind of client like that. Personally I'd cook some kind of bash script up to keep touching a timestamped file on a VPS or something but there's probably a nicer solution.
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Sep 17, 2018 22:11
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As long as you launch cmd and then do a "ping x.x.x.x -t" then when you ctrl+c it in the morning it'll print the cumulative statistics and tell you how many dropped.
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Sep 17, 2018 22:27
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I'm redoing my network and my gear is outgrowing the bookshelf space I've allocated for it. Any suggestions onsomething slightly more professional (and less painful to work with) that's not going to break the bank? None of the equipment is rackable but I'm not opposed to buying a rack and a few shelves if that's the best way to go.
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Sep 17, 2018 22:48
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Thinkbroadband do a service where they'll regularly ping an IP address for you and display a graph of latency and packet loss. https://www.thinkbroadband.com/broadband/monitoring/quality
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Sep 17, 2018 22:51
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Blinkz0rz posted:I'm redoing my network and my gear is outgrowing the bookshelf space I've allocated for it. Since a lot of desktop gear can be wall mounted I'd seen folks with a piece of plywood in their network closet with all their gear attached to it with screws and/or wall anchors to fit the wall mount points. Other than that there are small network racks available that can be wall mounted as well or even sit on the floor depending on which kind you buy: https://smile.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=12u%20network%20rack&index=blended It seems like the fully enclosed ones are a bit more expensive but there's a lot of different options.
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Sep 17, 2018 23:38
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apropos man posted:Good point. I wonder if there's some free network monitoring software out there that will keep a continuous stream going for X hours overnight and report any stoppages? There's gotta be some kind of client like that. Personally I'd cook some kind of bash script up to keep touching a timestamped file on a VPS or something but there's probably a nicer solution. I use Smokeping for this.
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Sep 17, 2018 23:39
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Smokeping looks excellent, especially for this case.
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Sep 17, 2018 23:47
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Thanks to everyone who chimed in regarding my connection issues. I updated the router's firmware and am now using Google Public DNS, and haven't had a drop since.
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Sep 18, 2018 14:41
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The Midniter posted:Thanks to everyone who chimed in regarding my connection issues. I updated the router's firmware and am now using Google Public DNS, and haven't had a drop since. WHEN IN DOUBT, UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE!!!!
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Sep 18, 2018 21:43
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derk posted:WHEN IN DOUBT, UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE!!!! Unless it's DD-WRT, in which case "hope you picked an update that wasn't hosed!"
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Sep 18, 2018 22:28
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I can’t find a decently priced cable tester locally and forgot to buy one on Amazon along with the rest of my stuff. Is there anything I can do to figure out what cables go to what walls otherwise? Really I would only need one for now, the rest I can wait for something to ship. The only thing I can think of is have someone at the wall watching a device to see if it gets signal as I switch cables out downstairs. My concern is whether anything even goes there though. Is it possible to test a cable with a normal wire toner? Not to see if it’s terminated and punched down correctly, just to see if it’s the same cable.
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Sep 20, 2018 16:10
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I can’t find a decently priced cable tester locally and forgot to buy one on Amazon along with the rest of my stuff. Is there anything I can do to figure out what cables go to what walls otherwise? Really I would only need one for now, the rest I can wait for something to ship. The only thing I can think of is have someone at the wall watching a device to see if it gets signal as I switch cables out downstairs. My concern is whether anything even goes there though. Yeah this works, we moved to a new office at work and I was running the cable and used a wire toner on a few occasions when I lost which cable I was working with. And you're right, if you knew the cable ran was working you could plug in a device and wait for it to light up, but that's only going to help if it's already working.
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Sep 20, 2018 17:35
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Thanks Ants posted:You can change the subnet size from a /24 to a larger one, and everything that currently works will still work - anything outside of the original /24 won't be accessible until you've updated the subnet mask on each device though. Thanks guys, looks like I got lucky, and all that happened was the sonicwall has to do the routing for the new range until I get all the /24 changed to /22 on the clients on my end. So everything stayed up and running, but until everything has the new hostmask it is still a bottleneck through the sonicwall (I presume). At some point I will probably get around to moving the default gateway etc where the sonicwall lives to somewhere closer to the beginning of the address space, where networking stuff should go. Not looking forward to running through all the clients again for that.
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Sep 20, 2018 18:01
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Thanks, I’ll try that first. 99% sure I have one of those in my old electrician’s kit. If the punch-down is hosed up, maybe I could get my landlord to take $20 off the rent or something for fixing it . I know at least one of them works somehow, though.
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Sep 20, 2018 19:59
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My edgerouter x kicked the bucket and I'm considering some different options to replace it/redo my network layout and would appreciate suggestions. My house isn't big, but it's got a weird layout with a lot of structural metal, so wifi signals drop off pretty quickly as you move away from the router. I had been using an edgerouter x with a unifi AP; I had originally intended to have multiple APs spread throughout the house, but the project kinda stalled out after the first one so that's where I've left it. Since the edgerouter died I replaced the whole setup with my old Linksys wifi router - it works, but only barely. Since I'd ideally like to locate multiple APs across the house, would it be better to switch to a mesh router system with ethernet backhaul (the whole house is wired with Cat5e), or stick with my router + multiple AP scheme? If you guys recommend the router option, should I stick with another edgerouter, switch to a totally Unifi-based ecosystem (like with the unifi gateway), or go with something else entirely?
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Sep 21, 2018 15:06
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If you’ve got signal issues were you using a wired backbone before? If so I’d stick with that.
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Sep 21, 2018 19:55
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"Mesh" wifi means wireless backhaul. If you can do wired, always do wired.
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Sep 21, 2018 20:29
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Sorry, what I meant to get at with the mesh w/ wired backhaul part was whether it would be better to go with an off-the-shelf set of mesh routers to set up multiple APs across my house, or stick with a Unifi-based system. I didn't really "manage" my network with the Edgerouter and was always frustrated with having different logon portals for the router and AP, so I don't know whether it's worth it to stick with the Edgerouter + AP or just go to a system which could hopefully achieve a similar result but is much more turn-key.
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Sep 21, 2018 21:09
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benzoapyrene posted:Sorry, what I meant to get at with the mesh w/ wired backhaul part was whether it would be better to go with an off-the-shelf set of mesh routers to set up multiple APs across my house, or stick with a Unifi-based system. I didn't really "manage" my network with the Edgerouter and was always frustrated with having different logon portals for the router and AP, so I don't know whether it's worth it to stick with the Edgerouter + AP or just go to a system which could hopefully achieve a similar result but is much more turn-key. I don't think anyone can answer that but you, really. If you get multiple unifi WAPs you could get the Unifi Cloud key to use as a controller you can log into and change/update/whatever the access points. The router would be separate unless you bought the Ubiquiti Security Gateway as your router which also gets controlled by that software package. I don't have any experience with the USG myself, though, and as a nerdy goon with a dozen things to login to on my home network it wouldn't bother me at all to have two logins. If it bothers you then that all-ubiquiti setup could do it or you could get a mesh system, although I don't think they all handle router + WAP together: https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-mesh-networking-kits/ The mesh systems cost a little more but are meant to be fairly easy to setup and most use a wireless backhaul between them by default It might be worthwhile to do a list of pros and cons for each setup and see what you feel like works for you. I think a bunch of access points that are wired together is going to be more setup intensive but work reliably, while the mesh products will be easier to setup but I don't know how well they work long term and will cost more. They may be fine but since a lot of them are made by companies who seem to make routers that somehow get slower or just stop working as they get older it seems iffy to me. That said, I guess you just had a Ubiquiti product die so maybe that's not the most auspicious thing to happen when you consider buying more of their products.
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Sep 21, 2018 22:20
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If you've already got the house wired, go with the Ubiquiti APs. Also, once they're set up, you don't HAVE to run the controller full time, if you're not using a very specific set of features.
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Sep 21, 2018 22:30
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Anyone have a ups they like for networking equipment?
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Sep 21, 2018 23:27
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benzoapyrene posted:Sorry, what I meant to get at with the mesh w/ wired backhaul part was whether it would be better to go with an off-the-shelf set of mesh routers to set up multiple APs across my house, or stick with a Unifi-based system. I didn't really "manage" my network with the Edgerouter and was always frustrated with having different logon portals for the router and AP, so I don't know whether it's worth it to stick with the Edgerouter + AP or just go to a system which could hopefully achieve a similar result but is much more turn-key. If you're just looking to fill your home with wifi and don't want the hassle of setting it up, I think you're better off getting one of the consumer mesh systems that support wired backhaul. I know Google (simpler, cheaper) and Orbi (more expensive, a bit more featured) do, and some others do as well. If don't want to manage the network and don't want the more advanced features that Ubiquiti offers, then I don't see the point of getting involved with it when you could get a system that does what you need so much more simply and in most cases for not much of a difference in price.
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Sep 22, 2018 03:53
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Blinkz0rz posted:Anyone have a ups they like for networking equipment? I use smaller UPSes with AVR for my networking stuff. Mostly Cyberpower 685VA AVR units. I don't buy them without AVR because of brownouts and sharing a circuit with the air conditioner. They seem to be overpriced on amazon right now because they're not shipped from amazon and even the 800VA is cheaper but here's what I have two of: https://smile.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP685AVRG-System-Outlets-Compact/dp/B00095W91O/ https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102044 This 650VA one claims to be AVR: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAE2J68N4241 Anyway it helps that those units space out the outlets so you can put a couple of transformers on them. If you have a bunch of transformers there's 1 foot extension cables on amazon that work great for just getting more bricks into a row of outlets.
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Sep 22, 2018 04:23
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benzoapyrene posted:My edgerouter x kicked the bucket and I'm considering some different options to replace it/redo my network layout and would appreciate suggestions. I work for an ISP that does network design for businesses on the side and UBNT APs are absolutely wonderful, we deploy them all the time, I love 'em. If your ER-X died, then you still have the AP, which is great. Your whole house is wired for CAT5e? Holy poo poo, even better. No reason not to go with a UniFi solution. It would give you roaming capabilities, consistent throughput, and you could add more as needed if you find the signal drops off in weird areas. As someone said earlier if you go with a wireless "mesh" system then you're using a wireless backhaul, avoid this if you can use copper. Also, the UniFi APs can mesh if you really want to do that. I also just like having an actual router as my edge device. n0tqu1tesane posted:If you've already got the house wired, go with the Ubiquiti APs. This. You only need the controller for the initial setup (I usually build a management VLAN to all the APs back to a dedicated server, but in a home situation who gives a poo poo). Plus, you can either fire up the server on your home PC everytime you want to make a change or I believe there's an app you can get on your phone that does the same thing.
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Sep 22, 2018 14:23
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I'm renting a loft right now for university and I'm sharing WiFi with my landlord who lives downstairs. The signal is utter trash everywhere except for the bathroom, and that's at the complete opposite end of where my computer is. I set up an old WRT54GL as a repeater and it's an improvement, but it still drops like 17% packets. Is setting up a Powerline Adapter my most economical/reasonable option, at this point?
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Sep 23, 2018 16:43
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Grimes posted:I'm renting a loft right now for university and I'm sharing WiFi with my landlord who lives downstairs. The signal is utter trash everywhere except for the bathroom, and that's at the complete opposite end of where my computer is. I set up an old WRT54GL as a repeater and it's an improvement, but it still drops like 17% packets. Is setting up a Powerline Adapter my most economical/reasonable option, at this point? Unless he'll let you run a cable up through somewhere, yeah, most likely. Expect him to have the default ISP modem/router combo with crappy wifi.
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Sep 23, 2018 17:50
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What DNS provider is the least likely to tell the world about my visiting granny scat porn websites? I’m setting up my ER-L’s DNS servers for my Pi Hole and I want an external fallback in case the Pi fails. I might as well adjust the Pi’s server to one of them too, but they probably shouldn’t be the same one.
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Sep 24, 2018 04:34
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