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shovelbum posted:Oh my God this is the best idea I've ever heard Doug Demuro famously did this with a Range Rover: https://jalopnik.com/my-range-rover-s-carmax-warranty-is-now-half-over-and-i-1733772237/amp I think Carmax wised up after paying out tens of thousands on a single Range Rover that was constantly in the shop.
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# ? Sep 14, 2018 19:10 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 01:31 |
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Duck and Cover posted:I'll just add the 3670(+whatever taxes) more premier msrp would cost me to your offer... what's that you say that won't work? Of course not why would that work stupid me. I'm sure it'll be less right? Right? I mean that's what he's telling me my offer was just too high! I mean there's going to be markup in going up to a higher trim and he just wants to pass that on to me. Ahahahahahhaha.
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# ? Sep 14, 2018 19:22 |
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Whose name should I expect to see on the title if I buy from a non-private seller (local dealer, CarMax, USAA, etc.)? Do the titles actually transfer to the dealer companies themselves or do they just keep the old owner's name on it? I thought title jumping was illegal but maybe the rules are different for them
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# ? Sep 14, 2018 20:47 |
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SciFiDownBeat posted:Whose name should I expect to see on the title if I buy from a non-private seller (local dealer, CarMax, USAA, etc.)? Do the titles actually transfer to the dealer companies themselves or do they just keep the old owner's name on it? I mean, in actuality, your financeer's LLC will hold the title until you pay it off. I always enjoy getting my car tags and seeing CAR DEALER FINANCING OF AMERICA as the lienholder.
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# ? Sep 15, 2018 00:55 |
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$215 on the configurator $115 from their website (although this is 2017 my bet is it'd fit fine) https://accessories.chevrolet.com/product/2017/Chevrolet/Bolt%20EV/front-and-rear-bowtie-emblems-in-black-42475530 $86.25 from random internet site https://www.shopchevyparts.com/exterior/2017-bolt-bowtie-emblem-black/42475530-p-92292647.html For fucks sake.
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# ? Sep 15, 2018 16:39 |
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JnnyThndrs posted:Not really, Fits are pretty reliable and trouble-free. The only common issue is that the battery is tiny and you generally want to replace it after four years or so because when it does die, it’s a weird size and can be hard to find if you’re out on the road somewhere. Thanks for the advice. I wound up going with a 2017 that was basically new (one owner on a lease, 7500 miles).
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# ? Sep 15, 2018 23:26 |
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Today I met up with a Craiglister for a 13 Corolla. He seemed decent and honest enough. Registration, insurance card, license, and a screenshot on his phone of the title looked good. He had near-complete service history documentation which I cross-referenced with the CarFax, everything seemed in order. Took it to a mechanic for an inspection after test driving the car--the only issues besides the standard minor cosmetic stuff is that the battery and belt will need replacing before the end of the year. I gave him an offer and he said he'd let me know in a day or two whether he's going with me as the buyer, but he seemed to imply pretty strongly that it's gonna be me. All in all, a pretty smooth experience for my first Craigslist meet up. It's nice to talk to someone and not feel like they're trying to manipulate me
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# ? Sep 16, 2018 05:22 |
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On a related note, what exactly is the "order of operations" of the actual transfer process for a private sale? I'd like to have an idea what I'm doing before I commit half a day at the DMV. Based on this link and DMV website info I imagine it could go something like: 1) We meet up at the DMV 2) He shows me the title, I confirm it's real, correct VIN, no liens, etc. 3) We sign a bill of sale 4) I hand him the money* 4.5) I guess he goes to cash it so he knows it's not a scam check? 5?) He removes his registration and I pay for my own 6?) He removes his plates and I get temps 7?) He removes the car from his insurance and I add it to mine** 8) We clean out the car and I drive away with it (+parent driving my old car home with them) *This is the part I'm most concerned about, when to actually loose my hands on the check (either before we sign the bill of sale or after). I trust him to a fault but I don't want to fall into an Indiana Jones situation where I throw him the golden monkey and he runs off. **I'll also have to coordinate transferring my current car's insurance to my parents. Is there anything I'm missing? Not sure what order 5, 6 and 7 will take place in. I suppose I also ought to visit a DMV beforehand and see what they have to say about the process. Should also call my insurance to see how that whole transfer chain would work out.
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# ? Sep 16, 2018 05:32 |
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Been a long time since I bought a private party car but that’s not how I remember it. Generally I met at a bank and withdrew cash or certified funds. They get money, Seller signs title over. Bill of sale gets notarized (most banks have a notary on sight). We go our separate ways. Different states have different rules about if the plates stay on the car or not. Generally there’s a grace period for swapping insurance and getting the vehicle registered. Depends on where you live
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# ? Sep 16, 2018 06:01 |
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I've only bought/sold cheapish cars privately, so I usually deal in cash. Selling the Ranger for example, the buyer and I drove to a third party MVD, they handed me an envelope of cash, I signed over the title and they got new plates. I've had too many issues* with notarized titles that I won't do it any other way anymore. *Buying said Ranger, title was technically clean but the seller had a lien on him where he couldn't transfer it for about a week. Buying my WJ and selling the Opel GT, both of those had MVD people being overly picky about handwriting and declining to accept a notarized title.
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# ? Sep 16, 2018 06:24 |
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skipdogg posted:Been a long time since I bought a private party car but that’s not how I remember it. I'm not in a state that requires BOS's to be notarized, at least according to my state DMV's website. I was going to give the guy a cashier's check. Is it safe to just give straight cash in an envelope? Is the bill of sale enough of a paper trail? I don't know if I'm comfortable just handing a dude 80+ benjamins and calling it a day.
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# ? Sep 16, 2018 06:46 |
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I made an offer on a 2000 Ford Escort earlier today! Beater impending! Edit: Dude has to check with his wife as it was her mother's car which is why I wasn't able to just drive it away. Should know Monday. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Sep 16, 2018 |
# ? Sep 16, 2018 08:05 |
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skipdogg posted:The 4runner is still a solid vehicle as long as you understand the drawbacks. If you never plan on going off road I would find something else to drive though. Just my opinion. Like a Highlander, which is a better road vehicle in just about every conceivable way. The hybrid ones are actually kind of quick off the line.
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# ? Sep 16, 2018 16:58 |
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SciFiDownBeat posted:On a related note, what exactly is the "order of operations" of the actual transfer process for a private sale? I'd like to have an idea what I'm doing before I commit half a day at the DMV. Based on this link and DMV website info I imagine it could go something like: In the states I've lived in, there's a spot on the title for him to sign ownership over to you. One state (Ohio?) required the signature to be notarized, so the transfer would have to be done at a bank or some other place with a Notary Public. You pay him the money, you both sign the title, and it's then your car. He can take his plates (or not) and go home. You take the signed title to the DMV or county title office and they give you a new title and registration after you pay taxes and fees. A BOS isn't needed - without one the taxes are assessed on the bluebook value of the car, so it's generally better to have one. If the cops happen to stop you for driving without plates, show them the signed title and tell them you're on your way to get it registered. Insurance will generally give you a grace period of a day or two to get it listed with them. You can call your agent ahead of time, though, to start coverage on a specific date. Cash versus check is personal preference. A cashier's check is safer if he'll take it. He may not be comfortable with that much cash on his person. It's something the two of you can negotiate.
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# ? Sep 16, 2018 17:13 |
Motronic posted:Like a Highlander, which is a better road vehicle in just about every conceivable way. The hybrid ones are actually kind of quick off the line. I get that it's not an ideal road vehicle but why the heck don't they have adaptive cruise and a non terrible radio on a nearly $40k 2019 model, all their other trucks have it. And can we talk about their weird fetish for fake hood scoops?
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# ? Sep 16, 2018 17:24 |
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shovelbum posted:I get that it's not an ideal road vehicle but why the heck don't they have adaptive cruise and a non terrible radio on a nearly $40k 2019 model, all their other trucks have it. And can we talk about their weird fetish for fake hood scoops? You mean the 4Runner? Because the Highlander has adaptive cruise and even the "steer you back in your lane" thing. And some kind of weird "tour guide" feature where the drivers voice is picked up by a mic and amplified through the rest of the cabin. The 4Runner is a mid priced SUV on a 10 year old platform, sold to people who want to have the off road appearance. I'm sure it will get the electronic upgrades when the platform is refreshed, but there's really no point in doing it before then. You or some else mentioned the Land Cruiser even has had adaptive cruise (and a much better infotainment system, and a fridge in the console) for quite some time now. And that's correct and not a surprise: it's an $80k+ vehicle with a history of few platform changes. They have to add some of those things to remain competitive in that price segment. It's still sorely lacking. I assure you that the LC200 still doesn't actually feel all that modern or comfortable. Miles of plastic dash, it's like the last vehicle you can buy that still has ash trays, and it absolutely rides like a new-ish pickup truck. It comes with all the nifty off road features that almost no one ever uses (locking diffs, off road cruise/crawl control, hill descent control, off road turn control - it's so big they have a system where you hit a button and it locks up the inside rear wheel so you can pivot faster) but wants for whatever reason (probably "heritage") or that others just don't care about at all. I have no idea why my wife likes hers so much. I hate driving the thing. But at least it got he our of the goddamn Land Rover (which was a better vehicle in every way other than - surprise - reliability).
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# ? Sep 16, 2018 17:46 |
I mean all quite true but it doesn't make the absence of an electronically up to date mid size body on frame SUV less frustrating. I think I just want something that has been supplanted by crossovers. If I wanted a wagon or van, I'd buy one!
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# ? Sep 16, 2018 18:28 |
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Deteriorata posted:In the states I've lived in, there's a spot on the title for him to sign ownership over to you. One state (Ohio?) required the signature to be notarized, so the transfer would have to be done at a bank or some other place with a Notary Public. You pay him the money, you both sign the title, and it's then your car. He can take his plates (or not) and go home. Thanks for the response. I'm sure everything's gonna go fine.
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# ? Sep 16, 2018 23:52 |
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shovelbum posted:I mean all quite true but it doesn't make the absence of an electronically up to date mid size body on frame SUV less frustrating. I think I just want something that has been supplanted by crossovers. If I wanted a wagon or van, I'd buy one! It's going to be last on the update cycle because they're basically no competition in that segment and they sell every one they make at full price. Car makers always update the most competitive segments first.
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# ? Sep 17, 2018 00:23 |
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SciFiDownBeat posted:Thanks for the response. I'm sure everything's gonna go fine. I look forward to the Amber alert about you.
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# ? Sep 17, 2018 00:29 |
Throatwarbler posted:It's going to be last on the update cycle because they're basically no competition in that segment and they sell every one they make at full price. Car makers always update the most competitive segments first. Isn't Ford going to gun for that segment next model year?
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# ? Sep 17, 2018 00:38 |
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Oh if anyone is curious my Shock Bolt Premier w/ Dark Galvanized and sky cool gray, Driver Conf II, Infotainment pkg, DC Fast Charge Provisions. Black emblems. 29563.82 out the door (taxes /state rebat/10,500 trade in included) oh I think I may have paid too much like an idiot. Although my trade in was 1,500 more then the other places offered. Now for some all weather Nokians, and maybe; tinting, ceramic coating. Duck and Cover fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Sep 17, 2018 |
# ? Sep 17, 2018 02:52 |
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Just wanted to come back and say thanks for all the feedback, I was freaking out a bit. Thank you KYOON GRIFFEY JR, ETM, nm, and Chunjee for all your advise. Anyone else I missed, thank you.
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# ? Sep 17, 2018 04:34 |
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I guess I should say thanks, too. The thread helped 'reset' me back to something I was looking for months ago to begin with. Long story short: Had two 25+ year old daily drivers/beaters that between repairs, age and junking and a search to replace one/both of them. But the whole thing was going on so long that I eventually started to consider way too many options to try to figure out the best replacement/complement to the specs of the car I'd be giving up and/or keeping. In the end, I think I'm back to my original window of something (relatively) close to a 7-10 year old car in the $4-8K range.
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# ? Sep 17, 2018 06:29 |
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Throatwarbler posted:It's going to be last on the update cycle because they're basically no competition in that segment and they sell every one they make at full price. Car makers always update the most competitive segments first. The Wrangler is the closest thing, and even further skewed on the "horrible sacrifices onroad for more offroad capability" spectrum. And they also sell every goddamn one they build at near sticker for a pricetag that would have seemed right for a Corvette not *that* long ago.
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# ? Sep 17, 2018 07:41 |
IOwnCalculus posted:The Wrangler is the closest thing, and even further skewed on the "horrible sacrifices onroad for more offroad capability" spectrum. And they also sell every goddamn one they build at near sticker for a pricetag that would have seemed right for a Corvette not *that* long ago. The Wrangler is a monstrosity, I see so many 4 door Wranglers that never leave the road. I'd rather daily drive this thing https://www.pinzgauer.com/shpics.php?table=vehicles&idnum=173 Edit: no LATCH so no pinzgauer, goddam kids sound like a lot more trouble now than I ever was, my parents got off easy shovelbum fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Sep 17, 2018 |
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# ? Sep 17, 2018 07:46 |
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Haven't quite closed on the car yet (used 13 Corolla, private sale via Craigslist) but I too will dispense a huge thank you to everyone in the thread who helped me out. Here's my first post in the thread for reference: SciFiDownBeat posted:I'm looking for a cheap reliable car but I've never bought a car before, please advise! What an innocent fool I was...
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# ? Sep 17, 2018 13:30 |
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I am glad this thread is useful to people! Good luck with all your sensible new-to-you cars!
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# ? Sep 17, 2018 19:01 |
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Hello goon hivemind. I'm tossing around the idea of replacing my car, and don't really know where to start looking. I drive a 2009 Mini Cooper S, which is cute and fun to drive. Unfortunately, the bone-jarring ride makes my back problems worse, especially if I drive for more than an hour or so. Ideally, I'd like something more comfortable, yet not stodgy. I'd like to take a 3 or 4 hour road trip without dreading the pain the next day. Proposed Budget: up to $35k New or Used: new, or not more than a few years old Body Style: prefer a compact 4 door hatchback, but this is flexible How will you be using the car?: daily commute ~20 miles each way, plus occasional road trips. Typically carry no more than two adults. What aspects are most important to you? In no particular order: 30 mpg, peppy, telescoping steering wheel, manual transmission, not a mom car, comfortable seats. (Pretty much anything will be more comfortable than the Mini, I think.) I dunno, is that too much to ask? I'm starting to research the Corolla hatchback - is it sluggish? My last Corolla was sluggish (but oh, so reliable...). What else should I look at?
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# ? Sep 18, 2018 02:52 |
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The goon hivemind awakens. "Mazda 3," it groans. The goon hivemind returns to its slumber.
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# ? Sep 18, 2018 02:57 |
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Why not a Golf GTi or even a gently used Golf R?
EAT FASTER!!!!!! fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Sep 18, 2018 |
# ? Sep 18, 2018 03:16 |
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Citrus Sky posted:Hello goon hivemind. I'm tossing around the idea of replacing my car, and don't really know where to start looking. I drive a 2009 Mini Cooper S, which is cute and fun to drive. Unfortunately, the bone-jarring ride makes my back problems worse, especially if I drive for more than an hour or so. Ideally, I'd like something more comfortable, yet not stodgy. I'd like to take a 3 or 4 hour road trip without dreading the pain the next day. You married to the manual transmission? You interested at all in a smaller CUV? Mazda cx 3, RAV 4 something like that?
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# ? Sep 18, 2018 03:37 |
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Not a hatchback but Civic SI?
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# ? Sep 18, 2018 04:19 |
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Hey guys! I'm looking to buy my second car, and I just started test driving a few in my area. I don't have a huge budget, but a local dealer has a 2008 Acura TL with 82k miles that I kind of fell in love with. I know it's older, but I just loved the way it looks and drove. Is there any reason to steer clear of this car? Also, 2012-2014 Volkswagen Passats with ~60,000 miles. Yea or Nay? Proposed Budget: $9,000-$10,000 New or Used: Used Body Style: I want it to have 4 doors, but be kind of sporty. V-6 is a plus. AWD is nice for the winter. How will you be using the car?: Short work commute, normal driving to and from places I guess. Maybe a 400 mile highway round trip every few months. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability is first, followed closely by style and comfort. MPG is important but not THAT important. I would definitely like an import. No domestic cars really do it for me. I want a sedan or a sports sedan, no hatchbacks and no crossovers/SUVs. I don't mind having to use premium gas. Thank you! ban me you pussies fucked around with this message at 08:54 on Sep 18, 2018 |
# ? Sep 18, 2018 08:47 |
Treefingers posted:Hey guys! I'm looking to buy my second car, and I just started test driving a few in my area. I don't have a huge budget, but a local dealer has a 2008 Acura TL with 82k miles that I kind of fell in love with. I know it's older, but I just loved the way it looks and drove. Is there any reason to steer clear of this car? Also, 2012-2014 Volkswagen Passats with ~60,000 miles. Yea or Nay? That 2008 Acura TL sounds like a sweet deal around $9,000. $10,000 probably fine too with that mileage. I don't know if Passats still want their timing chain/belt replaced but I saw one self destruct because it wasn't done at the exact recommended mileage. I did a little google search and it seems like not only do they still require it, but I got quite a lot of youtube videos results on broken tensioners. MAYBE if they have records for service recently but its unlikely as 60k miles wouldn't exactly qualify. Personally I'd steer clear. quote:2.0T FSI Models: The most recent factory recommend interval is 110,000 miles. quote:1.8T 20 Valve Models: The most recent factory recommend interval is 75,000 miles. Chunjee fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Sep 18, 2018 |
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# ? Sep 18, 2018 13:34 |
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I appreciate it. I think I will jump on the Acura.
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# ? Sep 18, 2018 21:06 |
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Okay, I'll look into the Civic Si, the Mazda 3, and the CX3 and RAV4. My physical therapist actually recommended an SUV, I've just been in denial about it. My husband has a GTI, which is fun, but nearly as bad for my back as the Mini. I suspect I'll just have to test drive a bunch of cars to figure out what will work.
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# ? Sep 19, 2018 01:34 |
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I'm somewhat suspicious that your issues are more with the seats than with the suspension tuning.
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# ? Sep 19, 2018 02:18 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I'm somewhat suspicious that your issues are more with the seats than with the suspension tuning. My co-worker has a Mini S and I wouldn’t describe the ride as anywhere near ‘bone-jarring’. I mean, it’s fairly firm, but nowhere near Jeep YJ levels of pain.
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# ? Sep 19, 2018 03:58 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 01:31 |
Can you get two rear-facing kids in the back of a Crosstrek, I wonder? edit: the emissions increase from the massive land barges required to do rear-facing until 5 y.o. probably kills more people than the loving seats save shovelbum fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Sep 19, 2018 |
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# ? Sep 19, 2018 04:19 |