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Thanks, guys! Reading the service manual carefully (especially chapter 05-215), I'm beginning to lean towards "praying the timing is all right and that a new cap will fix everything". At least back when this microfilm was produced, even checking the timing required a spring compressor for valve springs, a dial gauge holder, a 17 mm valve clearance wrench, a 27 mm socket insert, and a square drive (whatever that is). That's just the list of "special tools", I'd also need a "conventional" dial gauge A DIN 878... There's also a 10-point checklist, which ends with "Perform this test on the intake valve of 6th cylinder by repeating figures 4 to 9". Is it too much to hope for that timing lights were simply not yet invented when they wrote this stuff? Edit: Depending on my left and right camshaft code numbers, which I can take from the spare part microfilms (!?), my "timing degree crankshaft with 2 mm valve lift" (!?!?) is supposed to be either "22 (20)" or "21(20)". Now you know. Adjusting it requires a Woodruff key allowing for 4, 6.5, 8 or 10 degrees crank angle adjustment. If I need more, it can be combined by offsetting the camshaft sprocket by one tooth, which equals about 18 degrees. No simple "twist the ole' distributor" here, oh no. Pursesnatcher fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Sep 11, 2018 |
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Sep 11, 2018 22:22
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Even for a Mercedes that doesn't sound right for checking ignition timing. That sounds like verifying that the cams are in time with each other / the crankshaft.
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Sep 11, 2018 23:27
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Yeah, that sounds more like the rig needed to perform mechanical valve tappet adjustment (which is a form of timing adjustment)
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Sep 12, 2018 00:54
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That doesn't sound right, that sounds like cam timing not ignition timing. I was unable to get any free info or downloads myself except crazyaboutmercedes.com selling the pdf manual for $20, so I can't check myself. Timing lights were well and truly invented by 93, in fact they're becoming obsolete as by 97 most cars didn't have a distributor any more. They came out in the 1940s or something. E: From what I've read with little bits of info from forums, yeah, what you are talking about is valve adjustment, as the manual says do valve adjustment cold before doing the actual ignition timing. You can still turn the distributor for the actual ignition timing, but read through a manual for what temp, RPM and what to disconnect when setting the timing. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:35 on Sep 12, 2018 |
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Sep 12, 2018 11:11
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That's definitely adjust valves and not ignition timing. Not sure what your manual says, but it's going to be under something like "ignition" section. Possibly under periodic maintenance.
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Sep 12, 2018 14:21
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Well that's a relief! Makes sense, since the rest of chapter 05 is all about adjusting, replacing, or machining valves and camshafts. Here's the index from the manual: Scanned microfilm isn't searchable, which is a pain, but I found some values for ignition timing! It was way down in "electrical systems", although nothing for the 117.965.  
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Sep 12, 2018 20:10
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Does this help any? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes-forum/305427-setting-up-ignition-timing-m117-984-a.html Also search m117. Was it also in the 460 sel? You might get farther cross referencing other cars with that motor.
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Sep 12, 2018 20:36
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I don't think so; mine is a 5 liter, so although the naming scheme hasn't always been consistent, I'm pretty sure it's only sat in a few versions of the 500 SEL/SEC/SL's – and even then just from very specific model years in the mid-80's. I'm also partially sure most other models running the 117.965 in particular has run a 8:1 compression ratio (or thereabouts), while the 500 GE ran a ratio of 10:1. An actual service manual for my car would be a godsend, but with 446 units produced, I might as well try finding one for a Ford Nucleon.
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Sep 12, 2018 21:01
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I mean Mercedes is like the one company on Earth who should ha e extensive documentation on everything they put out. I’ll keep looking
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Sep 12, 2018 21:23
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I called Mercedes of Knoxville, TN and they are going to see what they can do. Not promising anything but they were very interested. Said their former service tech stole all the old unobtanium manuals.
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Sep 12, 2018 21:43
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everdave posted:I called Mercedes of Knoxville, TN and they are going to see what they can do. Not promising anything but they were very interested. Said their former service tech stole all the old unobtanium manuals. In the undying words of Morgan Freeman, "well poo poo". And I mean that in the most positive although slightly baffled way imaginable. I don't know that a manual was actually made for this car, but if they can find one... "well poo poo".
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Sep 12, 2018 22:00
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Pursesnatcher posted:Well that's a relief! Makes sense, since the rest of chapter 05 is all about adjusting, replacing, or machining valves and camshafts. Here's the index from the manual: Is it in pdf?
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Sep 12, 2018 23:50
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A m117 5.0 engine manual exists. No I don’t have nor do they. They stuffed them in AMG g-wagens. I have a bunch of info that I am not qualified to really convey. A lot of stuff about plugging some vacuum lines when setting timing. I’ll let you know when I hear more.
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Sep 13, 2018 03:19
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OP was saying a manual for the car is hard to get. An engine manual for that motor exists no problem. Like I said I found a PDF version for sale at $20 at crazyaboutmercedes.com http://crazyaboutmercedes.com/en/mercedes-benz-engine-manuals/6-mercedes-benz-service-manual-v-8-engine-m-11696-38-m-11796-50.html If a PDF version exists then it may be found online for free somewhere
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Sep 13, 2018 04:21
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Fo3 posted:OP was saying a manual for the car is hard to get. Yeah I have that one, which is close, but since it's actually for Mercedes W126-platform S-classes, there's going to be differences (like the 117.965 frequently missing in tables, as shown; setting the timing for RON below 98 described as an "emergency measure" contradicts my owner's manual; and everything car-specific being way off). Once you get up to 117.984 (also absent in this manual) there's quite a lot written online, but that's not necessarily right for my power plant either. Pursesnatcher fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Sep 13, 2018 |
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Sep 13, 2018 05:39
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Honestly just put the a new cap on it before going further down the rabbit hole. Mercedes of that era are incredibly sensitive to having bad caps, leads etc. A friend with an m117 w126 decided to clean up the contacts inside the cap with some sandpaper and inadvertently sanded some of the coating of plastic around them. It totally ruined the running of the engine, massive hesitation and loss of power.
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Sep 13, 2018 07:23
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Grakkus posted:Honestly just put the a new cap on it before going further down the rabbit hole. Mercedes of that era are incredibly sensitive to having bad caps, leads etc. A friend with an m117 w126 decided to clean up the contacts inside the cap with some sandpaper and inadvertently sanded some of the coating of plastic around them. It totally ruined the running of the engine, massive hesitation and loss of power. Yeah, you're right. Twice so far in this thread I've been told to slow down, I just keep forgetting! I've ordered a new cap and rotor now. It ended up at $350 with express shipping directly from Bosch to my local dealer. It's a bit up from the cheapest options I've seen ($280 including taxes and regular shipping), but I get full Norwegian warranty, and I'm guaranteed not to get shafted with some 15-year old inventory someone's selling off on the cheap. Also my local dealer likes me better, which I'm betting is going to save me some headaches in the long run. That same dealer can also dig up a brand new Behr radiator for me, at a paltry $1100!
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Sep 13, 2018 22:53
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Pursesnatcher posted:Yeah, you're right. Twice so far in this thread I've been told to slow down, I just keep forgetting! jesus wept. Those are Renault prices.
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Sep 14, 2018 03:59
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Indeed they are, but also – actually, let's just start at the beginning. Update! Parts! Expensive! Yay!  Shiny! The screws are, too!  Even on the inside! And in case anyone needed reminding, here's what the old one looked like:  It was even kinda bad under the connectors for the spark plug wired (you just call those leads? I'll call those leads). Some corrosion and debris.  So anyway, getting to work, I just did the bit with moving leads from one cap to another this way:  Unplug the no. 6 connector, move it to the no. 6 plug on the new cap. Unplug the no. 5 connector, and so on. Once I'd finished with one cylinder bank, I unstuck the old cap, mounted the new one, and kept going. I estimated a roughly 70 percent chance of not messing anything up. Discovered this though, which I found mildly amusing. Preeeeetty sure these connectors aren't 30 years old, but, well:  New and old rotors, for comparison – I'm not joking when I say I could've cut bread with the sharp, jagged edge of the old one:  And finally, new hideously expensive Bosch cap and rotor completely installed, ready to rumble:  So yeah it ate up a fair chunk of the September automation budget, but SO drat WORTH IT! While everything I've done so far has yielded some improvement, this last replacement just blew everything else out of the water. Okay, all the other repairs were necessary to benefit fully from this one, but I'm still baffled. Idling is a whole lot smoother, sure, but it's the driving experience which is entirely different. The power curve is way more even, plus I now put down so much more power it's almost silly. It's like a whole new car (well, not new, I still need a radiator and transaxle or whachamacallit and rubber and stuff but still). The big old thing even shifts gears more smoothly, if you'll believe it, and standing still with the stick set to "drive" now means "I shall steadily advance" rather than "watch me lurch, stop, roll and lurch again". Also, regarding timing, my parts shop were able to dig up instructions for the M117.965 engine. Somewhat strangely, it appears as if timing cannot, in fact, be adjusted. The distributor might actually just fit in one position. That would explain why there's no adjustment values for this specific flavor of engine in my old service manual, I guess. They did find some inspection values though, which I'll try figuring out. Also, they gave me a great, modern, updated and not-microfilm-based instruction on how to swap the timing chain – although, in fairness, I suspect the old one might still be good for a long time yet. Going to have to drive it for a while to make sure, but at this moment, it looks kinda like my next big update will be swapping out that transaxledriveshaft thing. I have no idea what it's actually called, but it shifts power from the gearbox to the transfer case, and it's got to go. And it's an AMG part. Because of course it is. Because as it happens, it turns out that AMG had more than just a hand in the making of this particular car. Woe is my bank account.
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Sep 18, 2018 20:01
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Yeah the Knoxville MB dealer said it was basically an AMG
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Sep 18, 2018 20:37
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I just happened to see another of these for sale. Pictures here, just in case they're helpful or encouraging. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vnlh9l6rs9y09ln/AAA1ikMd6PhlqethwYgW_2fCa?dl=0 Do you know if they are all the same color?
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Sep 18, 2018 20:51
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builds character posted:I just happened to see another of these for sale. Pictures here, just in case they're helpful or encouraging. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vnlh9l6rs9y09ln/AAA1ikMd6PhlqethwYgW_2fCa?dl=0 That G500 badge ... 
lizard_phunk fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Sep 18, 2018 |
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Sep 18, 2018 21:07
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everdave posted:Yeah the Knoxville MB dealer said it was basically an AMG The Affalterbach gang apparently even assembled the engine. It's kind of like the ur-AMG; the first proper Mercedes-AMG factory-built collaboration. Which is sort of cool, except for my wallet. builds character posted:I just happened to see another of these for sale. Pictures here, just in case they're helpful or encouraging. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vnlh9l6rs9y09ln/AAA1ikMd6PhlqethwYgW_2fCa?dl=0 Oooh, that is cool, thank you! Most of them are the same color; as far as I've learned, 350 of the maximum of 500 vehicles were set to be painted amethystblau like this one, while the remaining 150 were to be grey. Evidently some were also delivered with a green coat, though I haven't a good source for that. ...there are some, uh, "modifications" to that one, though. The mirrors are very, uhm, "modern", just like the, eh, indicator lights. And the cages around them. And the tail lights. And the OH LORD NO front bumper, and are those aftermarket speakers protruding from the doors? Also very weird that the power seats aren't, well, there. I kind of get the updated steering wheel; the wood meshes nicely with the original interior, plus airbags are nice I guess, but what did they do to that poor grille!? And the chrome strips running along the sides!? And the shortened antenna!? Hang on, why are the door handles chrome? And is that a G500 badge?!? As for rims, those are thankfully easy to replace. I'm curious what they're asking for this, since at its roots, it's definitely a 500 GE. It does need love, though. You should buy it.
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Sep 18, 2018 21:20
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Pursesnatcher posted:The Affalterbach gang apparently even assembled the engine. It's kind of like the ur-AMG; the first proper Mercedes-AMG factory-built collaboration. Which is sort of cool, except for my wallet. I like that color a lot. Couldn't find any examples of green in a quick image search, but I'm sure that looks nice too. Yeah, the ad includes "- other maint and improvement items" as things that have been done recently. Too bad (except for airbags, I get that one), but all in all it looks pretty decent to me. 29k CDN or 22.3 USD. Sadly, not in the cards at the moment. lizard_phunk posted:That G500 badge ... Yeah... My bet is that the current owner found it, fixed it up a bit and is now flipping it.
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Sep 18, 2018 21:57
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Pursesnatcher posted:So yeah it ate up a fair chunk of the September automation budget, but SO drat WORTH IT! While everything I've done so far has yielded some improvement, this last replacement just blew everything else out of the water. Okay, all the other repairs were necessary to benefit fully from this one, but I'm still baffled. Idling is a whole lot smoother, sure, but it's the driving experience which is entirely different. The power curve is way more even, plus I now put down so much more power it's almost silly. Called it! Awesome 
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Sep 18, 2018 21:59
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I am unreasonably happy with how much a new distributor has fixed your car and made you, a complete stranger, happy
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Sep 19, 2018 11:36
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builds character posted:I like that color a lot. Couldn't find any examples of green in a quick image search, but I'm sure that looks nice too. It's a great color; kinda unique, and looks different in all kinds of light. All in all they probably have done a fair enough job on their, uhm, "improved items" (even if I consider what they did to be roughly on par with buying a classic Shelby GT500, then smacking on a spoiler on the back and giving it a massive undershot lip on the front, and blinging the whole thing up with... oh. Hello, Ford.) Anyway, if the mechanicals are good, I'd call that a great price. Getting some power seats back in there can't be too costly, and that's the only thing they really have, rationally speaking, downgraded. Hell, I've spent almost a quarter of that just getting this engine up to par, and mine was significantly more expensive in the first place! Of course, cars are generally stupid costly here, with a new G55 being something like $270k, but still. I saw one of these go for €75k in Germany right after I bought mine, and that, too, had a couple of "upgrades" on it. Considering how few were made, I'm surprised they pop up for sale as often as they do. I'm aware of at least five rolling around just here in Norway, which is a tiny little country of five million people. The right moment might yet come! slothrop posted:I am unreasonably happy with how much a new distributor has fixed your car and made you, a complete stranger, happy  Just wait until I get the transaxletrainshaft and radiator replaced!
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Sep 19, 2018 22:20
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All right, time for a brief update! Car is still running smoother than ever, and starting up is still a breeze. With the dropping temperatures, it's become even better. Of course, it still isn't perfect, and on some days it'll still act a bit off. There's also a lot of odd ticking noises, and occasionally something which to me still sounds a lot like a chain rustling. Every now and then, I get the very obvious sound of stuck-or-misaligned-or-whatever valves for a second of two after starting the engine, but hopefully, it won't turn out to be something catastrophic. The way it runs now compared to when I began, I'm a lot less angsty about the whole engine. There's been little work lately, on account of my saving up for a new radiator and transaxle (although it turns out I might be able to get away with just replacing the universal joints on the old one). I got some new studded footwear for the car just today, which has (strangely) made it run a lot nicer than it used to, so I'm guessing the summer wheels are somewhat misaligned. I did get my hands on some new stuff, though!  These babies! The 500 GE originally came equipped with aluminum headlight protectors like these screwed into the stainless cattle pusher. Sadly, at some point, the pair mounted on mine disappeared. New ones are a bit hard to come by, as production has ceased on the aluminum kind. I could get steel ones, but they're some $560 a piece, and this is a restoration project, so...  They're not in perfect condition, but I got them for a song, and I'm thinking a good acid bath will clean them right up. Some industrial primer, a new coat of paint, and then some rubber gaskets to keep them from corroding the steel they'll be mounted to, and we should be good to go.  Since I've got one tremendously beat-up blinker, I also decided I should just replace the whole pair. Now I only have to figure out how to remove the bases of the old ones.
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Oct 29, 2018 19:38
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This project is not dead! Things just suddenly turned into winter, so mechanickin' is out of the question. Got a little update, though. After reading up on failing CV joints, and the amount of damage that might result from ignoring the problem – plus the radiator still spewing coolant – I have abstained from driving this truck for the past, I don't know, couple of months? At least I know I haven't started the engine in several weeks, so I thought I'd give that a spin, and film it. 47 seconds of exhaust pipe (I do have to say I love the sound of this engine): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oen5mg-k6_8 Three things:
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Jan 23, 2019 14:26
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The ticking at the start are your lifters, oil is draining out of the head when the car is left for a longer period of time. When you start the car, it ticks for a few seconds until the oil pump gives you operating pressure. It's not a huge deal, but one of the potential fixes is very easy - your oil filter could have a damaged oil check valve (or a lovely one/none at all in the case of aftermarket filters). Throw on a new OEM filter and it might solve your problem. If not, you have a leak somewhere that could be letting air in.
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Jan 23, 2019 16:24
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Lifters sounds reasonable, but this happens pretty much all the time – even when I've just left it overnight. When I did a major flush this summer, I also got a new OEM oil filter. Maybe things will improve when I get that valve cover gasket changed. From what I've read, that could sort out the massive condensation issue as well.
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Jan 23, 2019 21:07
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Yeah leaving it overnight is long enough - my W124 did this as well, the filter was OEM but I think quite old (as in manufacturing date). Changing to a new Mann filter fixed it for me. The oil filter mount is another primary suspect for leaks letting air in. Definitely change the valve cover gasket and see if that helps. If it's none of those things, it can be an internal leak between the oil pump and the block, in which case most people just live with it until the engine is taken apart for other reasons, the wear it causes is minimal and these engines are indestructible anyway
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Jan 23, 2019 21:51
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That last bit there is for some reason immensely reassuring  I keep thinking "M117 -> really for the SLC and such -> small spindly sport coupes -> flimsy fragile delicate precision instruments :O -> OH NO!" In about a month or two, temperatures should start climbing back above freezing – so I hope I'll be able to get some progress down then. Worst case I'll check in at some garage and have actual professionals do their thing again, even if that costs an arm and a leg. Priority now, in order, is to fix that transaxle-U-join-CV-whatever, then radiator, then valve cover gasket, then leaky blinkers, then headlight grilles, then ceramic coating for the exhaust manifolds. Knowing me, I'll actually fix things in the opposite order.
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Jan 23, 2019 23:15
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I was actually just thinking of this thread the other day after seeing an old 280GE? or something G-wagen at the junkyard here last weekend. Must have been an old grey-market import because I'm pretty sure those weren't sold here in the States back then. Glad you're still at it! For whatever it's worth, Mann oil filters are by far the preferred filter for use on the admittedly very different old Volvo redblock engines by the cognoscenti. Like the poster above said, there's murmurs about the antidrainback valve being particularly strong/well designed in them to keep the engine lubricated during startup. It may be Internet car guys being Internet car guys, but at least for old Volvos it's also the exact filter Volvo sells, just with different writing silkscreened onto it. e: oh gently caress I somehow didn't see that I'm bumping a month-old thread, oh well...
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Feb 16, 2019 03:29
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berth ell pup posted:I was actually just thinking of this thread the other day after seeing an old 280GE? or something G-wagen at the junkyard here last weekend. Must have been an old grey-market import because I'm pretty sure those weren't sold here in the States back then. Grey market imports definitely seems to be a thing! There's a video on youtube somewhere about this shop in Colorado which seems to be based on buying up milsurp G's from over here (seeing Danish warning labels in one of them was fun), refurbishing and customizing them on customer request, and then selling them to US customers. I think he said they charge $15k for a bone stock W461, and two or three times that for a more civilized version. Cool place, and very interesting to see what classic G-wagons could go for in the states! As for this thread, it may be month-old, but still alive – I'm very much at it, anyway, so thanks for input! Status right now is that snow is beginning to go, and I've had some fun in the meantime. Well... "fun", anyway. So I live on top of a steep goddamn hill. A few weeks back, there was a massive snowfall. The G was parked sort of in a bad spot for when our helpful neighborhood snow removal dude would come by, so I was just going to drive it down the hill, turn it around, and run it back up to be in a better spot. Things did not go... entirely well.  Not shown: The 60 ft sheer drop right to the right of the vehicle. Backing up, I managed to get one rear wheel outside the road – which is kind of bad. I decided to try rectifying this by putting it into low gear, braking mode, locking the diffs, and then slowly crawling forward – aiming to get all four wheels back onto the road. What happened instead was that all for wheels decided "gently caress it", and started sliding sideways on top of the snow, down toward the edge of the cliff. On the picture above, there are literally a couple of inches of road left before the left front wheel would have gone off as well. Oddly, I did not soil myself. I took this picture after a couple of hours of shoveling snow away from the road, so a rescue wagon could get up (he still needed two tries even with tire chains attached), and from there, it was another couple of hours of trying to haul the G back onto solid ground without going over, and dragging the poor Toyota rescue truck with it into the abyss. Things turned out okay for me and my truck; the only things damaged was a couple of poor saplings which had been holding on to the rocks for dear life (shorn right in two by Teutonic steel) and my very nearly frostbitten feet. I've also paid a Proper Mechanic to spend a couple of hours surveying the car mechanically, to try and get a proper estimate as to what needs fixing. It turned out worse than I thought. Radiator obviously needs replacing – not only is coolant coming out; it's also leaking transmission fluid or whatever in the opposite corner from that. The engine is apparently leaking oil in several places, a cooling fan is stuck (according to him, anyway), the AC fan clutch has exploded (!?) and a belt is missing. There's a "general looseness" to the running gear, but he couldn't pinpoint any particular component which needs to go – instead, he thinks it might be the transfer case acting up due to oil leaks from there. I can't say I agree with everything – the AC appears fine, and I haven't seen any evidence of leaks apart from around one of the valve covers. Still think I'm going to spend a few weeks this summer replacing the head gaskets, timing chain, guides, and all the rubber I can find. That's a massive job, as far as I can tell, but optimism goes a long way! Pursesnatcher fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Feb 16, 2019 |
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Feb 16, 2019 10:37
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drat! Well I’m glad you got it out okay without breaking any unobtainium parts. At least you live in a place where a car like a g wagen is apppropriate- someone in my neighborhood has a new one but they’re just driving it on paved roads in the city to show everyone that they have money. What’s the provenance on your car anyway? Has it always been a Norway car (or did you say you’re danish?) do you know anything about the original owner? Putting together the history of an old car can be fun. Also, a friend and I took a trip to Atlanta in January. While we were walking on Moreland Avenue she saw an older green g-wagen driving by and was immediately entranced by it and decided right then and there she had to have one. I didn’t have the heart to tell her how much one costs to own but she can dream. She points them out when we see them while riding around. There are a surprising number of them in Knoxville for some reason.
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Feb 16, 2019 22:56
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Thanks! Can't say I blame your friend, they're wonderful machines, and even when they break, they still somehow keep running. This may be my first, but it sure won't be my last! As for provenance, I'm reasonably sure it came to Norway new or near-new – I only have complete records going back to 2007 myself, but from the scraps I've found elsewhere, it arrived in 1995 at the latest. The PO is sadly no longer among us, but I've been thinking of looking into who owned it before that. First though, I've got to find a suitable mechanicking garage for when the snow finally goes. I don't think I want to keep it outside for when I tear the engine all the way down to the head gaskets.
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Feb 19, 2019 19:59
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Right then, time for an update! Winter is going, and I've found a garage! It might even be fitted with lots of the big massive things I'll be needing for this project, like engine cranes and such. At the very least there's a... I don't know the word, but one of those slit trench-looking things where you can stand upright underneath the car. Once we get to actual summer, I'll be moving in along with the G, so in the meantime, it's parts hoarding. And there's going to be a lot of parts to hoard. I had an impartial third party at a nearby authorized dealership do a surface-level diagnostic for an hour or two, and the prognosis is bad. There are multiple oil leaks, as well as the leaky radiator, so I've decided I'll just jump in and do a complete gasket renewal. Not just valve covers; the heads will come off, poo poo will be cleaned up, and that should be the end of leaks. It'll also give me a great opportunity to ship my exhaust manifold away for ceramic coating... so as I anticipated, I will indeed be doing things in roughly reverse order of initial priority list.  Lots of leaks would also go a long way to explain why there's so much steam coming out of my exhaust pipes. On the plus side, he couldn't pinpoint anything particularly nasty with my running gear, so I'll be leaving the tranny alone for a while yet. If everything goes according to plan with the engine, I'll be able to afford a complete renewal of the transmission next year. And I'm reasonably sure it'll hold until then. Other than that, I've actually gotten a few miles on the car since last time, with great success. It's been acting really nice, running smoothly and happily almost all the time. Only thing that's really been bugging me has been a weird, sharp ticking noise which I've been unable to properly identify. It didn't sound like any of the things people describe as being mechanically terrible, so I just chalked it up to something funky about the valves or whatever, until I looked under the hood today to try and figure out which cylinder was actually makOH GOD WHY ARE THERE SPARKS IN MY ENGINE COMPARTMENT https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlrEypN_s_Q
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Apr 16, 2019 18:15
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Hahaha. Yeah, time for new plug wires?
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Apr 16, 2019 21:39
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meltie posted:Hahaha. Yeah, time for new plug wires? Pfff, I guess it can't be helped. It's so weird, the wires all seem nice and, well, insulated. Don't see how it can make a spark through all of that rubber, but it obviously is, so. Does this mean I've not been firing on that cylinder? I mean, if the spark goes into the exhaust manifold, it can't be going into the combustion chamber?
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Apr 17, 2019 22:17
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