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A german company released a TA07 carbon chassis. .... I now have one in the mail.
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# ? Aug 15, 2018 08:38 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 14:35 |
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Let's see... 2x Tamiya TRF 415 MSXs in a box 1x early 80s Tamiya Sand Scorcher 1x reissue Tamiya Sand Scorcher unbuilt in a box 1x reissue Tamiya Rough Rider 1x Team Associated SC10 4x4 2x Tamiya M03 1x Tamiya M05 1x Tamiya M07 1x Xray T4 2018
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# ? Aug 15, 2018 12:12 |
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And a HongKong company is selling TA07 aluminum bulkheads. Between that german chassis, and the aluminum bulkheads.. can we do a budget 419? Well, I'll find out very soon.
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# ? Aug 15, 2018 18:12 |
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I have: C: The new Vanquish VS4-10 Origin I got through building the chassis this weekend. Electronics will be mounted tonight. Body will be sprayed some time this week? Still gaining inspiration
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# ? Aug 20, 2018 23:03 |
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Congrats on Xray taking out the 1/12th, F1 and ITSC 1/10th electric on road world titles in South Africa over the past week and weekend.
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# ? Aug 20, 2018 23:49 |
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All 20 registered racers... Speaking of r/c cars. I completed my test stand. And I completed half of the accessories. Last night, I threw two chassis on the stand, and found measurable differences in longitudinal stiffness. Maybe this weekend I'll get the torque arm setup, so I can do torsional stiffness.
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 15:30 |
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Somewhat Heroic posted:http://www.davesmotors.com/Axial-AX31030-Big-Bore-Shock-Cap-Parts-16mm.html in stock. If "the whole thing is tweaked" then it is possible the shock shaft got a little bent. We have those too: http://www.davesmotors.com/Axial-AX31081-Ti-Nitride-Coated-Shock-Shaft-4x83mm-2-.html I took a better look at the shock. It seems fine on it's own, just the top of that cap where the little mounting bolt goes through is sheared off. Will I need to buy some oil as well or if I keep it upright should I be good? Anything else I might need?
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# ? Aug 30, 2018 19:57 |
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slidebite posted:I took a better look at the shock. It seems fine on it's own, just the top of that cap where the little mounting bolt goes through is sheared off. Will I need to buy some oil as well or if I keep it upright should I be good? Anything else I might need? Totally late on replying but definitely get some new shock oil and rebuild both shocks at the same time. Stock oil weight in the rear was 10 weight. I would go to 15 or 20 weight, it is a little light on the rear. Content I have finished my Origin VS4-10 including painting. It has been the most satisfying build I have ever done. The tolerances are unreal, and the finished product is art in motion. I took it out for the first time this weekend and didn't do major crawling but scooted around with it while I took the family on a small hike.
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# ? Sep 11, 2018 16:06 |
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Well, it's been a while since I just went to the track and tested stuff. A typical race day, gets me 70-100 laps, and... I'll try to get more runs before and after racing. By the end, my brain hurts, and really it's not "practice" after racing. In a massive change from my usual, I dropped by the track, just to turn laps, and adjust cars. 225 laps later... My TA07 got some big upgrades over the last few weeks. It got Eagle Racing aluminum bulkheads, and a PSM carbon chassis. Between the two, the car looks a lot like a "real" touring car. The TA07 had a bunch of option parts available for it, and the vast majority of them stiffen the chassis up. Well the PSM chassis, feels a lot like a fully optioned TA07. With a couple side benefits, first, the car is easier to work on, I now have 4 inner bulkhead pivot locations, and I have more chassis side clearance. Rctech provided some advice for me, and my setup of the FF03. I had been running my shorty battery in the rear of the chassis to even out the weight distribution. Turns out, that's ~exactly the wrong thing to do~. I pushed the battery up front, and the car picked up something like a full second a lap. It's also a lot faster than the TA07 with the same turn motor in it. It's raceable now. I like it! And it's something like 100g under race weight. I put a whole bunch more time in with the Sakura XI ver.Nu. It's roughly the same speed as the TA07. I think this says something good about the Sakura XI. It's not really news, but the "new to me" T4, ran just like a T4 is supposed to run. I found half a second of lap time via practice with that car over the day.
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# ? Sep 12, 2018 16:08 |
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Because reddit was f'n useless. I come to you. I vaguely want to do a detailed car body. Lets start with a "semi scale interior" and lights. What's a good, or what are good, ways to do light buckets? Who's interior kit is a good one to start with? What are the most complete (car) body sets I could look into? Since i'm asking about.. "high effort" bodies. What are the resources to look at if I want to do things like, opening doors, and hoods. And doing that in lexan... seems scary. How do you build up the body so it's a "usable" body afterwords. Or is it a "you dont".
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# ? Sep 24, 2018 20:35 |
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I think it's a solid "you don't" if you're wanting to stick with Lexan. If you're wanting to go hard core scale body, you'll want to go with Polystyrene. Same stuff that regular plastic model cars are made of. I know that Tamiya offers some of their CC01 bodies in PS and those are a good jumping off point for a lot of scale crawler guys. You can chop them up, scratch-build stuff with PS sheets and sticks and whatnot. Tamiya's got some sweet light kits and controllers, but I don't know about buckets. You'd probably have to build something yourself. As far as 1/10 scale PS car bodies... I think you're in for quite a hunt there.
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# ? Sep 24, 2018 21:20 |
Nerobro posted:Because reddit was f'n useless. I come to you. http://www.scalebuildersguild.com/ This is probably going to be your best source of info.
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# ? Sep 24, 2018 23:50 |
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Does anyone make good (price not really important) power/signal interconnects for scale bodies? I want something with like a dozen pins so I don't have to gently caress with all the connectors when I need to do maintenance.
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# ? Sep 28, 2018 13:34 |
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I have been getting out quite a bit with my new Origin. It has been super cold this last week but on Sunday I was able to sneak out with the kids for a short hike. As you can see from the mountains in the background there was no shortage of scenery offered by the Wasatch mountains. I am seriously loving the Vanquish truck though. It performs so well that I find myself just expecting it to climb over/through/out of everything. (phone pic because I didn't take my DSLR out)
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# ? Oct 16, 2018 22:35 |
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So... I went racing saturday. And the results were pretty good. I won one heat race. And I (should have) won the B-main in VTA. ... the timing system f'd up royally for the B-Main, and I think I lost a lap. I still finished only 2 seconds behind first.
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# ? Oct 19, 2018 18:53 |
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That's awesome!
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# ? Oct 23, 2018 00:14 |
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Was reading through this thread yesterday and it inspired me to dig my crawler out and let my 4 year old give it a try. He did pretty well. https://youtu.be/nrlsTtlt3t4 He has an old beater but it has a small battery and only lasted about 15 minutes. When it died he was crushed since this was the first time we crawled in over a year so I felt bad and let him try mine out (scx10 Wrangler). It has a lot more power and speed than his so it took some getting used to, especially reverse. Thinking about getting him an scx10 ii for Christmas.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 04:06 |
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wandler20 posted:Was reading through this thread yesterday and it inspired me to dig my crawler out and let my 4 year old give it a try. He did pretty well.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 20:48 |
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evil_bunnY posted:That's awesome! Our 4.5yo has a scx10.2 (the red unlimited) with a lighting mods and nothing else and loves it. I've recently taken off the throttle restrictor too, and stoppies are his new favorite thing. He's getting a light bar for xmas because more lights = better, OBVIOUSLY Excellent! That's the exact one I'm getting him. I'll have to check into some cool mods down the line.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 21:51 |
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I can heartily recommend any kind of lighting setup, along with any scale detail that'll make it resemble an actual fire vehicle. I'm a contrarian and I've taught him to use a stick radio, but having free channels to control lights instantly improves any vehicle by a factor of on bazillion. Either that or have switches he can reach to control them.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 22:31 |
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Are there any good 1/16 scale on-road R/C cars out there? Something roughly along the lines of this: https://traxxas.com/products/models/electric/7305-2013 ...except actually available.
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# ? Oct 27, 2018 01:39 |
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Nerobro posted:So... I went racing saturday. And the results were pretty good. I won one heat race. And I (should have) won the B-main in VTA. Congratulations! I got BQ'd (top spot in B Finals, unlike TQing ) at a big touring car champs a couple of weekends ago, and finished second as the car felt like poo poo halfway through each final run.
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# ? Oct 27, 2018 07:09 |
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Cockmaster posted:Are there any good 1/16 scale on-road R/C cars out there? Something roughly along the lines of this: Sadly, once you get under 1/10 scale, options get limited really fast. There's "a little" stuff at 1/14scale. There's some sedan bodies for 1/12 scale. But then you make the jump down to 1/28 and 1/27 scale. There's a lot at that size. FWD, RWD, Pan car, independent suspension, off road, on road, etc... There's a bunch of 1/24 scale stuff too. You Am I posted:Congratulations! Thanks! The "heat race" was a USGT class run, where the other guy lost his battery. He almost caught me after getting his car going again. Hah. I DQ'd the USGT main. I need to figure out what my path in USGT is going to be. I have a FF chassis, that I'm trying to make competent at USGT. I think that may end up being a failure. But I am having fun trying. If there wasn't the JConcepts carpet race this weekend, I'd be racing this weekend too.
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# ? Oct 27, 2018 07:43 |
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Do there exist street tires that fit the 1/16 Traxxas Slash? I've heard of people putting them on the 1/16 E-Revo, but the Slash suspension geometry appears to be better suited for on-road cornering.
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# ? Oct 27, 2018 22:09 |
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When I was in Japan, I picked up a Midnight Pumpkin for my Godson - a couple of evenings help from me and dad, and it's almost ready. He had a massive grin when he realised how big the thing was compared to his other toy cars. Dad being told why the wheels and tyres need to be done first "so it's bouncy and goes over stuff like raahhhhhh". Me assisting with gearbox build. Amazingly, we had a fairly reasonable ratio of grease on mechanical components rather than child. All done mechanically, just needs the body sorting out (bonus Mini-4WD 1/32 one that I got his dad on a previous trip). There's a certain amount of a Boys From Brazil approach going on here - his dad had the exact same truck when they were released the first time round!
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# ? Oct 30, 2018 20:32 |
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That’s so awesome!
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# ? Oct 30, 2018 21:37 |
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That is an awesome story. I strongly suggest you pick up a FastEddy bearing set for the truck. They are absolutely necessary for Tamiya models and they are so cheap: http://www.fasteddybearings.com/tamiya-midnight-pumpkin-1-12th-58044-sealed-bearing-kit/ In a Tamiya kit like that you will actually notice a significant improvement in speed/acceleration and run time. It is also going to keep the drivetrain from eventually eating itself as the nylon and oilite bushings die.
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# ? Oct 30, 2018 22:28 |
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Yeah, I included a metal bearing set along with some radio kit and ESC, batteries etc, so he had all the gear needed to get it up and running.
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# ? Oct 30, 2018 23:18 |
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Where does one start with the upgrading part of the hobby? As posted earlier I have an SCX10 but outside of driving it I've never done any modifications to it. My son is getting an SCX10ii for Christmas so this should be a fun hobby for us. I just don't know anything about how they really work. Like, say I want to add a winch, I have no idea what actually would be done to accomplish this. Same with adding lights/upgrading weak parts. I'll probably end up falling down a youtube rabbit hole at some point. Until then I figured maybe some of you experienced guys could get me going in the right direction with some suggestions.
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# ? Nov 1, 2018 21:56 |
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The 10.2 is p good out of that box TBH and the receiver even has a free channel you could use for lights/winch. Lights are p easy you either get 6V stuff and stick it in your receiver (then brown it out all the time because factory ESCs have garbage regulators) or get a castle BEC and never worry about it ever again. Kids love lights/sounds. Winches either come with an integrated controller you just plug in a free channel, or you use a rudimentary reverse-capable brushed ESC to drive them. I find they’re more trouble than they’re worth. I’m not super up to date on the radio side of surface because I use my miniquad stick radios for everything (can’t argue with 6ch receivers that cost :10bucks: ) but flysky ans spektrum both make affordable decent radios with a bunch of channels.
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# ? Nov 2, 2018 00:16 |
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Now I'm looking for a large R/C truck for a robotics project, but I'd rather not spend the money on a new one. Is there anything in particular I should know about buying used R/C vehicles off of eBay or Craigslist? Like, for those listings throwing in batteries, is it particularly risky to buy someone's used LiPo packs if there are otherwise no red flags?
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# ? Nov 2, 2018 03:02 |
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Cockmaster posted:Now I'm looking for a large R/C truck for a robotics project, but I'd rather not spend the money on a new one. Is there anything in particular I should know about buying used R/C vehicles off of eBay or Craigslist? Like, for those listings throwing in batteries, is it particularly risky to buy someone's used LiPo packs if there are otherwise no red flags? RC Tech is a good site with a big For Sales sub forum
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# ? Nov 2, 2018 08:34 |
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wandler20 posted:Where does one start with the upgrading part of the hobby? As posted earlier I have an SCX10 but outside of driving it I've never done any modifications to it. My son is getting an SCX10ii for Christmas so this should be a fun hobby for us. For YouTube videos with a low BS factor on crawler tech, old Harley Designs videos are good. He has a few series that he has called "budget builds" where it is not so much things are done for cheap, but progressively done as though working with a regular budget. He knows a lot of great tech stuff and a year or two ago was actually hired by Vanquish Products and moved out to Sacramento. For traditional forums the rccrawler.com forum has a lifetime worth of information and has been laid out very methodically for tech information such as how to add lights/winches, BECs and the like. It is still pretty active too which is surprising as most RC forums are dead or dying. I went from the AX10 Scorpion -> SCX10 Honcho -> SCX10II (XJ Cherokee kit) and the SCX10II was like god-mode on doom when compared to the original Honcho. It is so much more capable and such a better crawler in every way. Just a couple months ago I made the jump from the 10II to the new Vanquish VS4-10 and that thing is so bitching. It is the crawler I always wanted to build myself but never did. Not a single regret about that kit and I can confidently say it was the most satisfying car kit I have ever assembled. If you have a specific question don't hesitate to ask. I am in-industry for the hobby stuff, so helping people out is my job.
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# ? Nov 2, 2018 16:52 |
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Awesome stuff, I appreciate it. I am currently looking at that Ford Bronco Traxxas crawler because it looks so god drat cool. Sounds like it might not be worth investing time and money into my SCX10 unless something breaks. I'll probably put more focus on my sons 10II.
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# ? Nov 2, 2018 17:51 |
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I mean sure but also the 10.2 is already great (just slow).
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# ? Nov 5, 2018 00:34 |
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evil_bunnY posted:I mean sure but also the 10.2 is already great (just slow). I guess I mean fun add on things that he'll enjoy like some lights or a winch. He won't care about mechanical upgrades.
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# ? Nov 5, 2018 16:47 |
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Lights are always a success with kiddos IMO, especially if you can throw them on a free RC channel (which the 10.2 RTR has IIRC). Our kid’s truck has a light bar (because firemen/women are the highest form of existence attainable by mere humans, you see) and he’s getting a LED bar for Xmas (because the led bar on my truck is the #1 reason he borrows it). The blue bar we have is the bashable ABS type and it’ll go through rollovers without issues, unlike most of the more scale-looking options. If you put lights or really anything non-factory in a 10.2 I’d highly recommend adding a BEC because the regulator in the factory ESC is a piece of unmitigated garbage and it loves to brown out. evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Nov 5, 2018 |
# ? Nov 5, 2018 18:57 |
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Before we just go "the bec's are poo poo" Lets cover the reality. They're not "terrible" They're just the size they are. It's like calling a 8mm socket terrible becuase you need a 32mm socket. It's still a good socket, just not the one you need. BEC's in ESCs are usually little linear things. Typically they're rated for 1-1.5 amps. The "fanciest" escs only provide 2.5 or 3amps. A high end steering servo can suck ALL of that power. Much less any accessory. That's why big caps on the reciever are still a common thing. They handle the transient loads from the Servo. External BEC's are nice, as they let you pick the quality of power, voltage, and current limits that you want. Sadly, they're also heavier and require a good bit more wiring.
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# ? Nov 5, 2018 20:19 |
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High voltage servos are really nice for skipping the BEC. I don’t have a link handy, but there’s a couple places you can find a servo lead that forks to the battery directly. All of my rigs are 3s now, though. Not because they need the power, but because I have some nice 12v servos and light bars. No regulator necessary.
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# ? Nov 5, 2018 21:58 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 14:35 |
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and some recievers are just happy handling whagever the input voltage is from the battery. Gruanper is coming to mind.
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# ? Nov 5, 2018 22:05 |